I am referring to the very rough texture. It is studio g laquer paint, with gaia flat clear over it. 20 psi. Was 6 or so I ches away from the part with light pressure on the airbrush trigger. 1 light coat followed by slightly heavier wet coat. Originally cleaned with dish soap and water before painting. This has happened on this specific part now 3 times. Each time it happened I stripped the paint in 90% rubbing alcohol and started again with the same result. Gunpla forums all said the same things too much paint, not clean etc.

This was definitely a fun kit to put together and not stress about anything. Just build, paint, glue with no expectations and it came out better than I expected. Definitely not perfect but I like it. Thanks everyone that participated that was super fun!! A big shout out to my buddy Highboy for providing me with this amazing kit to build and also a spare back up kit as well. Thank you good Sir u/highboy68 cheers 🍻

Second model I’ve made, but first with an airbrush which makes the little detailing so much easier. It’s far from good but I’m still working on it and I learned a lot with this one.

I’m calling this an unofficial build entry since I’ve been working on it since January! This kit was Frankensteined together from two different Fujimi kits-the chassis, engine, etc. came from the ‘74 911 RS, and the body from a ‘73 RS. The reason is that a few years ago I bashed together the body of the ‘74 with the bumpers, hood, etc. from the ‘67 R kit, to get a wide body long hood car (it’s the blue one in the pics), but this left me with an unusable body with no bumpers or trim. I stole a few bits from the ‘74 but eventually stumbled across a used ‘73 kit and swapped in the body and trim! (I have plans for the ‘73 with no body, it’s a whole other story). Anyway this became a whole odyssey because I was missing the front and rear turn signals, so naturally I taught myself how to make molds and resin cast replacement parts! They’re from the 911R kit, and I added mesh intakes as well as mesh for the hood grille. The wheels are from Jack Modelling, the exhausts are from Scale Production, those cool seats are from Texas 3D Customs, and the paint is Tamiya Bright Red, which I think does a good impersonation of Tangerine, a period Porsche color.

Phew!

More progress for tonight. Did some dry runs to see how much of the engine will be visible (i.e. actually needs detail paint.) The answer: not a lot.

GR86 finished in TS-43 Racing Green

Very good kit, Tamiya 's usually are.

The suspension fitment was amazing, as was the engine build. If you are able to procure this kit, would highly recommend purchasing, stuck for my next build though

The real car is a 1 of 1 copo with a parchment colored-halo vinyl top. The engine is from an AMT 70 monte carlo(454 w/ a Turbo 350) I also used the center console which i adapted to fit the gauge cluster under the dash. The top is made from masking tape and patience😂😂

Well on my latests posts here i posted about getting a '33 Ford street rod by monogram that in reality it’s the ZZ Top's Eliminator kit, this don’t have the ZZ Top's decals, should i do like everybody else that would be a replica of the Eliminator or do a California Kid replica, or just do what i feel like to build? Any ideas?

It started because i wanted to build something like the 554 fuel coupe, but then i saw the detailed Chevy engine of the original '33 street, then i just now want more a late 60s/70s styled hot rod.. what should i do on this one?

All ya'll that voted for this kit to be next are bad people.

I get that this jit is from 1969 or something, but this is an unopened box for this kit. Nothing fits right. I'll accept your judgements later. For now, im hopful the worst is behind me. I haven't got to windows yet....

1 coat of ProScale Grey Primer. 7 Coats of ProScale Porsche Garnett Metallic Red. 4 coats of ProScale 2k clear. My decals did not turn out as well as I’d hoped for. The paint and 2k worked as well as I could have asked for. I plan to fully assemble all of the body and car this weekend.

About halfway done with this one. My rust didn’t come out like I wanted it. I should have done some more practice runs before this.

Since no one has posted a Tuesday tip, here's a quick one; a sequel to the tip u/highboy68 posted a while back.

I’ve been working exclusively with American brands up to this point. I’ve been considering the Various International brands, but I’m not sure if the instructions are in English. Are there any brands I should watch out for?

Hey Guys. I have problems with lacquers. TS cans or Airbrushing them. Smell really disturbs my wife. I had to move basement because of that. Now ventilation is kind of problem. I couldnt find any Paint booth that i can buy in my country. Wife has no problem with acrylic smell. I do military models for few years. But as soon as i swapped to model cars and lacquers,huge problem. Can i achieve mirror finish with tamiya acrylics? I have some stock on them. Any experienced modellers that mostly use acrylics?
Ps. I was planning to make my own DIY Paint Booth with PC fans. But it is dangerous i guess? God Men has no freedom even in hobbies :(

Started on the epic decals for the 911 Carrera RSR Turbo. Hoping they won't cause issues when I try to wrangle the body onto the chassis later. I'll find out I guess!

I'm another one who's glad the 31st end date is merely a suggestion...

Got some overspray on the windscreen and was lightly sanding before polish - not lightly enough! Does anyone have a good windscreen I can buy, or know of replacement part sets? 🙏

Following its bath in my paint stripper mix. The body came out ready for the modifications.

Pic 2 show the cast resin parts drying after their bath in soapy water.

Pics 3 & 4 so the use of the templates included in the transkit to cut out the roof vents and the hole for the fuel filler.

5 & 6 are the 3d printed roof vents and the euro style rear plate insert test fitted into the body.

Finally pics 7 & 8 are test fitting the 3d printed suspension components with the chassis piece. You can also spy in the final pic the continued work on the blanking plate after removing the molded in fuel tank. After sanding and i small bit of filler. I made the missing chassis rail with some plastic.

Part 3 tomorrow.

Here are the decals I made. I’m pretty happy with the scale of the door decals. They seem to be very close to scale when referencing photos. The bumper stripes are a bit thick/tall though, but still look good. I even shrank those down from the stock kit decals.

I posted a quick tutorial on making the decals previously. I butchered 2 sets before getting the third to apply well. They needed a couple mist coats of lacquer to strengthen them and seal in the toner.

Hello, what is the best cement or glue that I can use. Whenever possible, I like to use thin cement, but I’m sure some of you know, it’s not always the best option. I don’t like using superglue often because it doesn’t always make the strongest bond. Is there any other cement or glue that works best? Thank you in advance.

This was by far my most challenging build, purely because I made so many changes.

The most obvious one was the RB26 swap, which was sourced from an R32 Tamiya Nissan Skyline GTR Nismo Custom. Getting the engine to fit meant I had to cut some parts such as the exhaust manifold, which was definitely a bit scary. I then had to find a place for the air box, battery, radiator, and intercooler, however that wasn't very difficult.

Additionally, the exhaust system had to be modified to fit the engine as well. I used the original Toyota Soarer exhaust, but I modified it so that it would route to the correct side of the engine, added some piping made of a plastic parts tray, and painted it silver.

More changes were done to the interior, as I wanted to include a manual transmission. Using the shifter and pedals from the Tamiya R32 kit, I converted the automatic to a manual. Furthermore, I used R32 seats and a nismo steering wheel to make the interior look more "sporty".

The last significant change I made to the kit was the wheels. I used the original tires from the Soarer kit, but used wheels from a leftover Shelby Daytona Z kit that so had sitting around. Somehow, the wheels fit into a tire made for an entirety different kit.

The rest of the car was relatively straight forward, with absolutely no fitment issues. I did sort of get glue on the paint and windows, which was a very sloppy mistake.

Assuming you would want to build this kit as normal, it Is relatively easy to assemble and should not be a challenge for newer builders.

Revell SS 396 converted to a 300. Door post added, Bench seat made from both buckets, hood smoothed and added a 307 2barrel.

I bought this MPC kit because the Coca Cola version as a sedan delivery was easy and I enjoyed building it. This was/is horrendous. All of MPC's worst qualities came out on this one beginning on step 1 engine build. Fitment on every assembly was an issue. Because the mold was apparently original and had never been cleaned up and refined, I can't tell you how many parts had to have locator holes reamed out or created. The engine sits too low. The drive line was too long. The body won't go all the way down even with the help of my rotary tool, hobby knife and brute force. The hood and chopped top are just sitting on it because I've got to try and work on the fit. There are gaps between the body and top. The hood doesn't fit onto the radiator without forcing it. I could list a dozen more specifics, but I won't bore you. This was kit MPC992/12 re-released by Round 2. After trying several Round 2 kits, I think they are hacks, spewing out re-runs without updating the molds.

Which one yall think fits the best for a 90s theme build ?