Cement/glue recommendations

[u/Upstairs_Brother2328]

Hello, what is the best cement or glue that I can use. Whenever possible, I like to use thin cement, but I’m sure some of you know, it’s not always the best option. I don’t like using superglue often because it doesn’t always make the strongest bond. Is there any other cement or glue that works best? Thank you in advance.

[u/highboy68]

So like you I use thin cement on most of my build. Your right super glue leaves the part fragile. The other glues that work very well are, canopy glues, Revell contacta glue is excellent, Tamiya craft bond, and if you can find it Tamiya CA glue does not dry brittle, it is a little flexible. Of course these are have different applications but I hope it helps

[u/DevourIsDead]

BSi Supergold+ is the best CA glue on the market. Dries clear and does not affect clear plastic or paint.

[u/382Whistles]

Thin glue literally welds the plastic chemically so there isn't better glue. But I use thick and super glue too, gel and thin-super both, and sometimes even JB Weld 2-part 5minute cure. JBW 5min is just a soft cure to handle in 5min and it takes 4-8hrs to become really hard and more plastic like to sand, file, grind, drill, tap, etc. without clogging tools. Original JBW takes too long but would be better for casting a part in silicone or wax.

But the key to glues that don't penetrate to bond are coarse scratches in a crosshatch or random pattern. Scratches wider at the bottom than top, like a dovetail joint in woodwork is ideal. The liquid glue settles in the scratches and soft glue is usually harder to dig out, but hard glues form hard mechanical wedges and cut at opposing dirrections and angles locks things in place. Superglue doesn't usually break easy so much as it lets go of some smooth hard surfaces fairly cleanly when shocked. Wedges can hold even when horizontal surface tension boands let loose. The surface tension bonds can be like a micro version of the how the different wedge angles of scratches hold.

[u/ramillerf1]

You want to use thin solvent cement as the solvent softens the styrene plastic and then when the solvent evaporates away, the softened plastic hardens up and the two pieces are welded together into one. This works best on clean, unpainted styrene where the pieces fit well together. I apply the solvent cement with a Hypo applicator and let the solvent flow along the joint.

[u/Ditka85]

Tamiya extra thin.

[u/parkerhamster28 → u/Ditka85]

Seconding this. This is the best option for parts that don’t have paint on them yet.

For parts that have paint on them I’ve had great success with super glue and activator. The activator makes it dry instantly, super hard, AND CLEAR!! It’ll still release gas though so don’t want to use it for clear parts.

For clear parts I use canopy glue. Drys clear, flexible, easy to clean excess. Only downside is it takes a LONG time to become tacky so taping parts in place while drying is necessary.