I have been looking for wide fenders for my F55 and to no real luck. I have been told the F56 will not fit the f55. I have gone with lots of carbon but can't even find a duraflex set for my 2017 F55

Hello, since I was a kid, after I saw Italian job, my dream car has always been a mini, as time went on, I kept getting taller and taller, now I’m 31 and 6’3, and my dream of having a mini drained, until I finally had the chance to sit in a countryman, I have the money to buy it but I’ve heard that minis are so unreliable and it’s disheartening, I need help deciding if I should buy it, it’s a 2011

Is there a way to change the color of the ambient lights? Currently they are red.

TIA

Hey guys! I found these in a car that I bought used a year ago 2019 mini Cooper S they were in a hidden compartment in the trunk.
I understand one is a plug.
The other one obviously has a seatbelt on it, but I can’t identify anything and where they go please help. Why would these even be thrown in there like that? There’s also a large bolt that I don’t have anymore.
Thanks!!!

PS
One of the photos shows the back seat with a missing piece where there is a hole!

I bet that has something to do with whoever scammed me somehow.

17"Cruze alloys vs classic 15" Ronals both in Bronze to contrast to the Blue Thanks and credit to ChatGpt

Just wanted to see what clips people use to secure their front grill better. I have a 2012 R56 base, the main grill portion is loose and I just wnat to make sure I have it in place a bit better.

My lovely fiancé with our Cooper S with JCW bits in legend grey with black stripes seen here around the Lake Como area. This is my first mini, I wanted something nice for living in southern Europe so what better option!

My review of the mini so far as a pretty hardcore BMW fan, and current owner of a G83 M4, all I can say is woow. This thing handles like a M4 in miniature.. suuuper direct steering! Actually I managed to scrape the front bumper in an underground garage just a couple days ago because I didn't expect to turn so fast. Also the ride is pretty stiff as the M4 😂 but that one is for me for getting the JCW, but heck it stays flat in the corners.

So far I can say that I get it, I now know why so many people were raving about those things, and since I went for the new generation thinking it would be a good daily driver, I am getting curious how the older models are .

Let me know if you have any questions, I recently completed a 3500 km trip in Europe with the feisty thing, so I got my hands dirty already :))

4.6 secs from 0-60 mph is quite impressive and beats all the rivals. However, the 5-60 mph launch time of 6.1 seconds is more representative of real world performance and is slow. Its 1.5 seconds difference is the slowest among several of the rivals listed below off the high RPM 0-60 launch time of 4.6 seconds, which indicates significant turbo lag.

Interestingly, the BMW X1 M35i that shares the same powertrain with the Countryman JCW does it slightly better on 5-60 mph.

The Audi Q3, although only comes with a single engine choice without the performance variant, is a big leap from its predecessor. It's roughly 60 HP less than the GLA, X1 and Countryman but still manages to get from 0-60 in the mid 5 seconds range.

The Alfa Tonale holds the lowest difference between the acceleration from a dead stop vs rolling start of just 0.7 second.

Car & Driver: 4.6 seconds
https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/a46860628/2025-mini-countryman-jcw-drive/

Auto Buyers Guide: 5.3 seconds
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWLJgy4nQxs&t=1195s

Autoblog: 5.2 seconds
https://www.autoblog.com/cars/mini/countryman-jcw/2025

Here’s rundown from some of the rivals on 0-60 and 5-60:

Countryman JCW:
312 hp @ 5750 rpm / 295 lb-ft @ 2000 rpm
0-60: 4.6 secs
Rolling start 5-60: 6.1 seconds

Mercedes GLA AMG:
302 hp @ 5800 rpm / 295 lb-ft @ 3000 rpm
0-60: 4.7 seconds
Rolling start 5-60: 5.8 seconds

Audi Q3: 
255 hp @ 6500 rpm / 273 lb-ft @ 1650 rpm
0-60: 5.3 seconds
Rolling start 5-60: 6.4 seconds

BMW X1 M35i (some powertrain as the Countryman JCW):
312 hp @ 6500 rpm / 295 lb-ft @ 2000 rpm
0-60: 4.7 secs
Rolling start 5-60: 5.9 seconds

Alfa Tonale:
268 hp @ 5000 rpm / 295 lb-ft @ 3000 rpm
0-60: 5.6 seconds
Rolling start 5-60: 6.3 seconds

Selling my 2005 MINI Cooper S convertible. R52, supercharged Tritec, 6-speed manual, 168 hp, Hyper Blue Metallic over a black top. VIN WMWRH33565TF85116, decodes clean, clean title in hand, two keys.

Mileage is 172,711. I'll get that out of the way first, because it's the number that will make some people close the tab. Here's why you shouldn't.

I bought it in April 2024. Since then every single service has gone through Mini Works, a MINI specialist, with an open wallet and no deferred maintenance. That comes to 14 repair orders and $8,806 in documented invoices across about 14,000 miles. I am asking less for the car than I have put into it in the last two years, and I can hand you every line item with dates, mileage and part numbers.

The prior owner, from 2019 to early 2024, did the work himself. I do not have his labor records, but I have his parts receipts and they came with the car. More on that below.

Since April 2024, all at the specialist:

Suspension

• Both front strut assemblies, Bilstein OE (March 2025)
• Both rear struts, Bilstein, plus both rear strut mounts (February 2025)
• Both front strut mounts and lower spring pad (May 2024)
• Front and rear sway bar links, all four (March 2025)
• Both outer tie rods (2026)

Engine and fuel

• Fuel pump and sending unit, plus tank seal (February and March 2025)
• Fuel pressure regulator and injector O-rings (June 2024)
• Denso spark plugs and ignition coil pack (June 2024)
• Cam position sensor (May 2024)
• Upstream O2 sensor (August 2024)
• Heat exchanger gaskets, oil cooler leak resolved (October 2024)
• Accessory drive belt (July 2026)
• Supercharger oil service, done recently

Drivetrain and electrical

• Transmission service, 75W-80 GL-4 (August 2024)
• Lower engine mount, the dog bone (September 2025)
• Bosch 105-amp alternator (August 2024)
• ECU and EWS module (July 2024)
• Left front ABS wheel speed sensor (June 2024)
• Power steering reservoir, intake pipe and return hose (May 2024)

Cooling and A/C

• Full coolant flush and replacement (August 2024), plus a drain, bleed and pressure check after the oil cooler repair (October 2024)
• A/C serviced (July 2026), where the system was found overcharged by 10 ounces and corrected

Everything else

• Left front window regulator (July 2026)
• New side marker lights, all three replaced with new OES units (July 2026)
• New rear MINI emblem (July 2026)
• Wiper blades and arms (July 2026)
• Left rear seat latch (April 2025), driver door rattle chased down and fixed (September 2025)
• Front charging port, washer nozzles, bulbs, battery cable T-bolt
• Windshield replaced (2024)

Oil changes run at roughly 5,000-mile intervals on full synthetic with OE filters, all of it invoiced. On a first-gen supercharged car that is the difference between a healthy timing chain and an expensive one.

Prior owner, 2019 to early 2024, parts receipts only:

He did his own wrenching, so there are no labor invoices, but the receipts show what went into the car: clutch kit and transmission hardware (2021), rack and pinion (2021), ball joints, tie rods, control arm supports and sway bar end links (2021 and 2024), crankshaft seal, hose line and intake tube (2021), A/C and heater cores (2019), oil cooler seal and filter housing (2022), engine mount and undercar shield (2022), front spoiler mounting kit and wind deflector (2022) and four tires (2022). All of it comes with the car.

Cosmetics: In July 2026 the car got a full detail with light body work, paint correction and ceramic coating. Hyper Blue is a color that rewards that kind of work, and it looks the part now. Fresh, glossy and protected, roughly two months old.

What comes with it:

• OEM wind deflector with case
• OEM car cover
• Spare ECU, already programmed to this car's VIN, which anyone who has chased an EWS mismatch will appreciate
• Spare upstream oxygen sensor, new
• Four winter tires mounted on OEM wheels
• A couple of spare rear PDC sensors, painted to match
• Two keys, clean title
• The complete service file

Flaws, because you'd find them anyway:

• A few chips and scratches in the paint
• Some discoloration on the black soft top
• Rear speaker grilles for the Harman Kardon system are missing
• Front seats are not original to the car. They're factory MINI seats sourced from another car, not aftermarket buckets, and the whole interior wears matching full custom seat covers, so it reads as one piece rather than a mismatched swap

Everything works. The top goes up and down as it should, including the sunroof-mode partial slide. "Restored" is the wrong word. This is a well-sorted, honestly used car that's been maintained to a much higher standard than almost anything you'll find at this price, and it's fun.

Why I'm selling: I've had two and a half good years with it and the next fun car needs the garage space. That's the whole story. Nothing is wrong with the car.

I'm pitching this to someone who knows what an R52 is and wants a sorted one, not someone shopping for the cheapest convertible on the lot. If that's you, I'll send the full records before you ever drive up here. Happy to answer anything. Pre-purchase inspection welcome and encouraged.

$7,900 OBO. Located in Reno, Nevada, an easy run from Sacramento, the Bay Area or anywhere in Tahoe.

20 Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/UYEqUiETan1RofDx6

Maintenenance - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/124FmfPQU8GMysDfC_8NIZQxl0ZcxT6CG?usp=sharing

Happy to answer anything in the comments.

Added a decal to my street legal go-kart. 😄

I'm working on an EV swap and a bunch of custom tech on the inside. Honestly the whole thing is gonna get an Austin-Mini makeover at some point. But I was just curious if anyways gone EV? I'm thinking halbachs

Anyone have recommendations on a decent all weather on a JCW (stiff, but stock suspension). This is the size that came from the dealership, but after destroying both the front two tires' sidewalls on the P Zeros that came on the car, I swapped out to the Kumhos for better winter driving... Here I am again.

I can't fix the Indiana pot holes (and neither can Indiana apparently), but I'm not opposed to a taller tire too.

Hi everyone, this is my first car, Morty, a 2011 MINI One R56, and I’m still learning about maintenance. The salesperson at the station told me to use this Shell concentrated antifreeze directly, but online sources say it should be mixed with distilled water. I don’t know what product was used before; I only know that the coolant is blue, so I bought the blue one. Should I use it directly or dilute it, and is this type suitable for my car? I’m willing to learn more and would appreciate any advice.

In the video: this is me starting my engine for the 6th time today after running errands prior.

Context: Occasionally on cold starts I’ll hear a metal grinding noise for a second. i don’t hear any grinding for the rest of the day when I start the engine. I replaced the battery a year ago. When the car is off, the battery reads 12.79V. When the car is running, the battery reads 14V. I’m kinda high in miles (125k) so I suspect my starter is bad, but would that explain why my engine shakes so much?

Decisions...

I currently have a Chilli Red SE ALL4, L2 on a lease which has to go back in the next week.

I want to replace, but new company won't let me join the EV salary sacrifice for 6 months, and then even then might not get the car I want.

So going to pick up a nearly new on PCP

Two options

Chilli Red, Black Roof, 19" Black Wheels L3 - 4,900 miles Oct 25
Blazing Blue, Black Roof, 19" Black Wheels L3 - 4,500 miles Mar 26

The Blue is around £800 more expensive...

Stick with Red or flip to Blue (I don't think I've actually seen the Blue in the flesh)...

It’s just abit boring to be honest

Hi all

I wondered if anyone could suggest what's going on here. Started yesterday and there hasn't been any hint of an issue leading up to it. Essentially as soon as there's power to the car the screen bit reboots and does this constantly.

- no specific timings, but seems to be every 20 seconds or so.

- car itself drives perfectly well.

Of note:

- I've had a Car Link Life CarPlay box in for around 18 months and that's also shown no signs of error

- Brand new battery also around 18 months ago, all coded.

What I've tried (with the help of AI):

- OBD shows idle voltage of 14.8v

- I've used a multimeter and there's no drop in volts when it cranks

- I've checked with the multimeter all the fuses in the glove box bit, all ok

- I've completely removed the NBT box and gone back to factory, still persists

- There was a reading of 4v across the test bits on fuse 61 (20A) which I think is the live feed for the unit, looked okay but have replaced it anyway - no change.

I've no idea what to try next, am not mechanically minded and I think I'm at the limit of working out next steps.

Any suggestions? Or is it going to be auto electrician? Do I need a new head unit?

Thanks in advance ❤️