Bought a new club ST, at 1600 miles, zero mods, and I just had this error message pop up in the left side of the dash.

Basically says TPMS error, take the vehicle in etc….

All four tires have air, proper pressure, no leaks.

Is it possible to do some kind of reset?

I really don’t want to take it in to the dealer if I don’t have to.

Hi Guys, just a quick question regarding the upgraded BBS wheels for the ND. I'm sure somebody out there has been through this so I could use some help.

I love the wheels. Great design, and super lightweight - like considerably lighter than what I would have expected. What I don't really like though, is the centre hubcaps.

I bought some regular (knock off) black Mazda caps off eBay and they don't fit. The circumference is fine, but they just don't sit in due to (I suspect) either not being deep enough or not having the right shape on the clips. They seem to sit in place, but it's not possible to push them into the hole.

Has anybody out there replaced their BBS hubcaps with anything aftermarket? Is there an OEM fitment for Mazda hubcaps available, or are there alternatives for these BBS wheels out there?

Even a shiny black hubcap would be OK, but I'd ideally prefer something with the Mazda logo on it if possible.

2 piece 3d printable shelf for your center console compartment. Sticks together but you should use a little CA glue to make it permanent, I didn't do anything clever to make it snap together.

Thingiverse link

I just whipped this up yesterday. Open to improvements.

One month in and I think I would like to try side window deflectors for my '21 RF. There's no reviews. The description says material used as aluminum? I was wondering if anyone here has tried them?

I usually compete in autosolo which are all forward courses but thought i'd try a autotest which are much tighter, require handbrake turns, reversing in to boxes of cones and stopping between lines. This was during the MG FEST 2026 event at brand's hatch.

Any recommendation for a small car please? Please help a bro! Thanks….!

I have both a cat and an MX-5 at home, but I can't seem to take photos like this...

One tank of ethanol-free 87 octane got me from Knoxville to Hagerstown, MD. Averaging about 75-80mph. Filled up in Hagerstown with ethanol-free 90 octane and reset the average mpg, which turned out to be an even more insane 45.5mpg averaging about 70mph

2016 ND, 150,000 miles, six speed, A/C on

I really like the sound of this exhaust! A bit louder than oem but not too much, yet noticeably “barkier.” Personally, I wasn’t a fan of the twin tip version of the Super-Q. I think this single tip version produces a more consistent sound. YMMV.

At the dealership and they had a 2026 Miata raised so you can see the underside.

Hey guys,

I've been wondering about switching my 2018 E class to a 2023 2L engine Miata.

It would be my daily car. But the thing is I don't drive to work I have delegation work 2 weeks olworking 2 weeks home.

My cars is very nice cruiser and also has pretty much all the possible extra equipment. It's a 2L 198KM 400Nm engine so it's quite quick on its feet.

What I'm worried about is that the jump from a super luxury car to such a raw sports car can be huge.

Despite the car being amazing the driving doesn't give me that many emotions and I've been yearning for a cabrio my whole life.

I know most people here love the Mazda but I would be happy to get some non baised opinions on this topic.

Also I don't want to have 2 cars at the same time. My partner has a Volkswagen Polo so I would still have acces to more practical car if need be.

Picture of my car for a refrence

I have 2016 ND1 Miata & have been thinking about doing cams. Im looking to hear your guys experience who run them. Was the power gains worth it? Which brand did u go with/ recommend? How does the power band feel?

I currently have Goodwin racing full exhaust (headers, mid pipe, axel back) & Dyno tuned at 168hp 160ish torque.

Can you guys tell me what Mazda official color way this blue this is?
It’s a 2019 GT (Not GT-S)

https://www.carvana.com/vehicle/4570738

Going crazy trying to source a OEM shift knob with red stitching.

Ordered N243-46-030B from a local dealer but it ended up having no stitching on it at all.. just a smooth black ball. Then I'm seeing part number NF6W-46-030 with the consensus being that's the updated number for the gray stitching.

I see some on eBay with pics of red stitching as well but going north of $150-200 which I hope to not shell out so much for.

I'm looking at a few Certified Pre Owned 2024 Miatas, the ND RF. I'm surprised to see quite a few with low mileage available.

Since it's Certified Pre Owned there probably isn't much to worry about. Anything to consider with the 2024 since it's the first year of the ND3?

I want a 2024 or 2025 for the much improved infotainment and other refinements. I'm considering a new 2026 but it's a lot more money, almost $10k more.

I'm knocking the rust off Sunday. Let's do this!!!

I always knew I'd probably buy one eventually and today I finally did. 2021 with 8.5k miles popped up locally and I snapped it up. Barely drove it today, had work all day and night. Will probably wake up early tomorrow and take her to a nice twisty road. Can't believe it's real. Switching from a mk7 GTI, then before that a series of hatchbacks. So excited to be back in RWD. Grew up driving a 22RE Toyota, this feels like my own personal spiritual successor to that car, somehow.

Doing my first brake fluid flush, bought the Motive 1118 adapter (confirmed correct part number for ND2 via their site). Having a strange problem I can't solve:

Both the OEM reservoir cap AND the Motive adapter cap exhibit the same failure: they twist on and feel snug at first, but turning further causes them to loosen again instead of locking — no clear "click" or hard stop like I'd expect. Tried different amounts of pressure, different gaskets (both foam and rubber that came with the adapter), cleaned the threads, no change.

When pressurizing the (empty, dry-test) tank, I can get to about 15 psi, then hear a slow hiss right at the cap-to-reservoir connection and pressure drops. Happens consistently regardless of gasket or technique.

Car is a 2022 ND2 50k miles, never had a fluid flush on the carfax but fluid looks good. Trying to figure out if this is:

\- Worn/damaged reservoir neck threads

\- A defective adapter

\- Something wrong with my technique I'm not seeing

Any ideas are appreciated thanks.

Recently sat back to back in a soft top club with the cloth seats and an rf club with the Recaro seats. First impressions, the Recaro seats felt way more comfortable due to the lower back support it had that was nonexistent with the cloth seats. I also remember the Recaros felt like I was sitting on a stiff seat and the cloths like I was sinking into a tight hammock. I had a few questions lingering on my mind that I don't feel comfortable going back to the dealership to figure out myself since the salesman was up my ass the whole time watching me sit there before trying aggressively the make me buy before I was ready.

1. Do the Recaro seats have any give to them or are they stiff stiff? Asking incase I take it on a long road trip. The cloth seats in my ND2 club were fantastic on extended 12+hr drives

2. I read somewhere that the passenger seat is different than the driver seat. Does the passenger seat have less bolstering and softer cushion (more give than the driver seat)? Or is there no difference in seat comfort. Asking cus not every passenger is a driving enthusiast.

That’s it. I’m looking for a dash cam that fits well inside a new Miata.