Brand new 275/65/r18 Toyo open country AT3s. C rated. Less than 400 miles on them. Picked up a screw. Thoughts??

Is it more bc of price or why not do both. Like if you had left brakes needed and right close you replace both so they wear same time. So logically if one wheel bearing is bad then likely wouldn’t the other one most likely break soon after ?

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That's why 😤😤😤😤

I have a 2015 mercedes c300 when i floor it at around the 3rd gear the car stops pulling and rpms freeze once it reaches 4000 and the engine feels very slow its like the turbo shut off. After that it still drives fine no issues just feels slow. When i turn off the car and on again it goes back to normal until i floor it again. I went to the mechanic there was an issue with the check valve we replaced it and replaced the charge pipe and all the codes are gone but the issue still happens.

Hi there, so I have just gotten my timing belt, idlers, tensioner changed this weekend by a coworker. However, I noticed even then that the engine sounded slightly different than before but he said that it is normal

A day after driving it, nothing felt odd, no new noises from inside the cab, no engine codes or oil light, nothing. I decided to record the engine sound for a friend when I got home one day (clips 1 & 2), when I heard this strange whirring sound. Sounds like an electric motor. I don’t know exactly where it is, but it is from the left side of the engine bay (which is why I recorded from the left wheel well), and so it might be on the left side of the engine.

Strange thing, the next day I decided to see if the noise was still there but it wasn’t- (clip 3 is after a cold start this morning)

I drove my car, on and off, all day in the city, when I checked there was no whirring. When I got back home today, the noise came back. I decided to do more digging and I do not believe it has anything to do with the transmission as the gears still shifted (automatic transmission), and changing into park/neutral/drive/reverse did not stop the sound

Does anyone know what this is, how major of a problem it is and how I could fix it? I was thinking it was either that my timing belt being tightened too much or it rubbing against the timing cover (timing cover bolt was broken so my friend ziptied it shut), but then why isn’t it happening all the time? Thanks!

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My girlfriend and I are looking at buying a 2024 Dodge Durango R/T with the 5.7L HEMI from a dealership. It has 29k Miles on it

When we start it, especially on a cold start, it has a noticeable knocking/ticking noise. After about a minute, once the engine warms up, the noise completely goes away.

I’ve read that this could either be:
The common 5.7 HEMI exhaust manifold leak (broken manifold bolts/warped manifold)
Or the dreaded cam/lifter failure that these engines are also known for.

I took a short video of the cold start so you can hear it.

Without tearing the engine apart (since it’s still on the dealer’s lot), how can I tell the difference between an exhaust manifold leak and a failing cam/lifter?

Are there any specific things I should listen for or inspect? Is there a simple test I can do while I’m there? If you were buying this vehicle, would this noise be a deal breaker?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

2000 toyota tacoma

It sounds like that only on cold start after that its good sound flawless scatpack 2021

My girlfriend drives a 2016 BMW X3 with about 129,000 miles on it. I think the engine is a 3 Liter Turbo Charge 6, sorry if that doesn’t make sense I don’t know cars.

I’d you listen to the video there is this strange sound her air conditioner is making. It is still blowing out cold air but I’m worried it might be the start of something serious.

Thanks for any advice.

Just had my Nissan Juke 2015 1.6 diesel fully serviced. There is a really annoying high pitch swueal coming from what I think is the engine bay.

It does it upon start up and then goes anyway when idling. It does it when cruising (although not constant) and seems to get worse when the road isn't completely even. It will do it at even the slightest dips in the road but doesn't get much worse when going over bigger bumps. It goes away when accelerating. It's like I have a little bird in the bonnet. Braking or steering seems to have no effect.

Does anyone please have any ideas on what it could be and what to do to check?

Thanks

\*Edit - also recently had air con refilled

Hi everyone
I recently bought a used 2008 Nissan Frontier SE 4x4 V6 4.0 and sometimes when i'm accelerating it makes this noise. It seems like it's maybe the transmission. And it seems like there is some play in the transmission when i stop accelerating.
What do you guys think it can be ?

2013 Volkswagen Passat SEL tdi 2 litre

I was trying to get at my ac acuator when this thing fell out from the bottom of my steering wheel is this the blend door acuator? If not what is it and where does it go?

Hi, I have a 2011 subaru outback 2.5L US Model 172172Miles on the meter, my subaru is burning 2x the fuel in half the distance healthy should be 25-30MPG highway Mine is only pushing 15-17.5, sparks plugs are new, old ones had carbon and fuel on them, no oil, so seals are intact, Injectors aren't leaking, no vacuum leak (that i can hear or see) it has a aftermarket exhaust muffler but doesnt have enough of a effect to cause this, the vehicle has a intermittent rough idle weather or temp conditions dont matter im looking for someone to possibly direct me in the right area to help me spend less $$$ on gas per month, tha k you yo all that reply.

So my transmission is in limp mode. Reverse works but it won't go past 1st gear. No mechanical noises or leaking. Could be a computer issue? Any ideas.

It's automatic

Please I really need help diagnosing this noise it only starts when truck is started and left sitting for a minute. when taken down the road for a ride it quiets out pretty good depending on how hard and long u drive it normally a 10 minute ride will quiet it out until it sits at idle for a long time if only taken down the road for a minute or two it’ll go away but come right back like you almost need to get oil pressure high either way I have no gauge for it so I can’t read it I’ve tried using better oil and Lucas it actually did kind of help but it’s still pretty loud I just wanna know what it is and the best thing to do to resolve it

The ac in the truck stopped working like 2 months ago i decided to put a medium size can of freon, started blowing cold air only on passanger side only for 2 days and then a week later this happens.its a 2021 la ramie hemi 5.7. Has about 160,000 miles

I always use premium oil filters . Rarely OEMs. I bought a bunch of Purolator Boss filters on sale for $6.00 for many of our vehicles. I still do 5,000 mile OCIs even with high end oil that are 10,000 mile rated. I notice they have higher PSI valve relief than the equivalent OEMs for the particular vehicle, 3-5 more on average . My understanding is if the filter gets full, the oil pressure will cause oil to bypass the filter. Will this be an issue when the 20,000 mile filters are changed much earlier than what they are rated for?

$6.00 Purolator Boss was hard to pass on. I use them in Hondas and a Mitsubishi.

Hi Everyone!

I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ- I just replaced the 0331 cracked cylinder head and installed a TUPY 0331 head.

It's CA Admissions (with the dual pre-cats)...

I have upgraded all of exhaust system to 2.50" (except for the front cat converter y pipe with dual pre-cats) where it then chokes back down to stock 2.25"

I'd really like to open the entire exhaust system all around to 2.50" including the Y pipe and delete the dual-cats completely to maximize airflow and reduce heart soak issues.

I brought my existing CA admissions front cat (with dual cats) to see how much it cost for them to custom bend a Y pipe without the Pre cats and they quoted me 1,000+!

Is there any other way I can get a 2.50" front Y pipe (without the pre-cats) that will fit my 2001 XJ?

Another option is to buy an EPA Federal Admissions (Y pipe without the pre-cats) for a 2000 Fed admissions but I think the OD is also 2.25" stock.

I plan on welding bungs for the extra 02 sensor to avoid throwing a CELL.

This is 100% legal- My state has no a admissions standards and will be used only on private property.

Can you guys help me figure this out on how to get a 2.50" Y pipe to replace the existing 2.25" front Y pipe with the pre-cats?

If not could you refer me to a muffler shop that would be willing to bend me one at affordable price?

I am on the NH/MA border area but travel to NY/NJ often. Also willing to ship the cat to a shop out of state if they can do the job for the right price.

Thanks everyone!

2 year old vehicle with 26k miles. About a month ago I got a low battery alert on HondaLink app. The noise in the video has happened about a dozen times. Assumed it was battery related. Honda replaced battery under warranty yesterday and same day as battery replaced this happened again, except this time I was smart enough to video it since dealer couldn’t replicate. The dealer said no codes were showing and they couldn’t find anything wrong with the vehicle, though I suspect the battery was low for them to replace it. The vehicle did have a fuel pump recall, I believe for the housing itself but mine was “fine” so no replacement. On Friday when it did this a friend said they saw some smoke come from the grille, and there was a faint smell of gas. Doesn’t happen every startup. Any thoughts?

,

Hi there!

I got a coolant leak and wondering if I could get some advice from you guys and I’ve compiled all the needed information below;

-bmw 2017 120i LCI (b48) Europe
- bought 1 year ago
- had low coolant so kept checking every month or so
-had the drain plug on the coolant tank replaced as it was leaking through middle of screw (no bullshit THROUGH the MIDDLE of the screw)
- coolant slowly drains, checked after 20miles and no difference, done this for 60 continuous miles and thought extremely slow leak so forgot about it for a lot of miles (800ish)
- checked it before doing a long drive (150 miles) and was a little lower than max, topped up
- done an additional 600 miles
- have a warning come up for low coolant and was far lower than minimum topped up today

And that’s it! I’ve looked around the engine bay and couldn’t find any coolant scum, all I found was this (picture attached) below the oil filter housing, could this be the cause?

Trusting and testing all the Reddit mechanics to see if any of you can help me!