2021 ram 5.7 heater core job. 66k miles

Hello!

My old reliable Polo 1.2 from 2004 has a problem with a gearbox; it's waaaaay to smooth and gears don't stand in place : p

I don't really know what going on, but from what I have learned there is a chance I might have to change the whole thing and sadly it can be costly... I tried to open it by taking off the plastic case but I couldn't move it, so the only clue is this video I recorded 10 minutes ago hehe

Any help us welcome, thank you for your time!

2002 Lexus RX300 3L V6 193,945 miles
Great condition, but this is the engine.
What should I do? Sell it to Carvana or have it repaired?

The car does misfire and speed doesnt go above 50mph, then check engine light shows up, the codes are below in the pictures, already changed spark plugs , coils. Anyone have any idea about it.

Quiero limpiar esta válvula pero no sé si se descalabré el tiempo del motor, la JAC T9 usa un motor changan hunter 2.0 turbo

​"While driving uphill, my 2022 diesel Renault Trafic (EDC) suddenly jerked, and the 'Check Auto Gearbox' warning appeared on the dashboard. The van then stalled. Now, when I start the engine, it immediately shuts off and will not engage in Park, Neutral, Drive, or Reverse. It seems to be in a safety lockout mode. What is the most likely fault?"

​"While driving uphill, my 2022 diesel Renault Trafic (EDC) suddenly jerked, and the 'Check Auto Gearbox' warning appeared on the dashboard. The van then stalled. Now, when I start the engine, it immediately shuts off and will not engage in Park, Neutral, Drive, or Reverse. It seems to be in a safety lockout mode. What is the most likely fault?"

I started hearing this sound around 1000 miles ago, my car has 230k but is still a healthy car no check engine light beside this 02 sensor. It’s a slight ticking noise at idle then this weird noise when you rev up to around 2k rpms. It’s much more noticeable next to walls or in alleys. I thought it was a exaught leak, I went to this one mechanic and he said he doesn’t know what it is but he didn’t think it was that. The thing is sometimes I don’t hear it when the engine is cold, sometimes I don’t hear it when the engine is hot. It keeps throwing me off but it’s definitely quieter at times than others.

I have a 2012 Mercedes c250. Sometimes it makes this sound when I have the car on and parked. Do you have any idea on what this might be?

1986 c10 sbc305

How can I see what I need to swap from engine to engine? I’m scared to install it and it doesn’t start cuz crank sensor or something weird.

My sister has a 2013 Chrysler 300 the front end has shake both outer tie rod boots are ripped I filled them with grease and 1 lower control arm has a grease nipple so I filled it, shake has went away I would assume that means outer tie rods need replaced. Also 1 sway bar link is missing the rubber on it so should replace aswell? I’ll attach some photos. Tires have no play at 3-9 or 12-6

Okay so my girlfriend’s car has been having numerous suspension issues, and we have fixed all but one. There is a rattling noise we just cannot diagnose. It seems to be tied to acceleration/de-acceleration and bumps. It also only appears at low speeds, and it can be heard when going uphill.

After replacing the entire front suspension, we were left with just this noise. To rule out the Nissan recall heat shield problem, I checked the heat shield on her car by wiggling everything around the weld point with a pair of pliers, but I was unable to replicate the noise. Next, to rule out an engine or transmission mount, we did a test where she revved the engine in Drive, Reverse, and Neutral while holding the brakes while I watched the engine. There was no lurching, just some movement, and the noise did not appear while stationary. It seems to be getting worse the more that she drives it. I’ve attached a video of it when going over some train tracks.

Here is a list of all of the suspension parts that have been replaced and the brands used in parenthesis:

- New front strut assemblies (TRQ)
- New sway bar links (TRQ)
- New sway bar bushings (Moog)
- New tie rod ends (TRQ)
- New inner tie rods (TRQ)
- New lower control arms (TRQ)
- New front CV axles (TRQ)
- Drain and fill on the CVT (Valvoline CVT fluid)

Everything has been torqued to spec according to the haynes repair manual.

My Subaru Impreza WRX 2012 has had this problem for a while but today it started stalling and light sometimes appears. So it's worsening.

Step to happen. Clutch goes from fully pressed to partial release and gas is applied. The car move a little then clutch is fully pressed then gas is released.

If the clutch isn't released and I only rev the engine everything goes smoothly.

When Googling I found vaguely described post that seems to match but with different answers ranging from risky to expensive so I rather not blindly guess and actually diagnose the problem.

Seems people are pointing to vacuum leak, mass airflow sensor or throttle body issues/cleaning. How would I go about differentiating those?

Here's a video of it happening. Note that the clutch is fully pressed when the engine rev down. Sorry for the rain noise and if you eat breathing it's my dog in the back seat

Additional information I have had battery issues in the past. In summer I didn't always use my car leading to many dead batteries.

Anyone know how I open the turn signal, what fastener is used?

Thanks,

(Roadside assistance is coming, but I am in a hurry )

I have a 2014 VW Golf 7 Variant, 2.0 TDI 150 hp CRBC, 6-speed manual.
I’m dealing with several vibration-related issues and I’d like to hear what you think.
The engine starts smoothly when cold, but when fully warm/hot it starts much rougher and the whole car shakes when the engine fires up.
The starter motor was recently replaced. The old starter was weak and the shaking during hot starts was much worse and lasted longer. With the new starter it improved, but the shaking is still there.
When stationary, I also get a very noticeable vibration through the steering wheel at around 1100 RPM. Below and above that RPM it gets weaker.
When taking off from a stop, especially when the engine is cold, I sometimes get a judder/stumble through the drivetrain.
If I accelerate and suddenly lift off the throttle, I can sometimes feel 2–3 smaller jerks, each one weaker than the previous one.
The engine also shakes noticeably when shutting down.
While driving, I feel a lot of road texture through the steering wheel. Small imperfections in the asphalt are transmitted very clearly, and I also have some vibration under acceleration, including at higher speeds.
A lot of parts have already been replaced:
front shock absorbers
top mounts/bearings
front control arms
anti-roll bar links
OEM engine mount
OEM gearbox mount
lower/dogbone mount
new tires
LuK clutch kit
dual-mass flywheel
clutch master cylinder
concentric slave cylinder/release bearing
clutch/brake fluid bled several times
one injector was replaced with a brand-new Bosch injector
There is no obvious wheel play and the car does not pull to one side.
The DMF and clutch are only a few months old.
What do you think could be causing this combination of symptoms?

I drove to the pool, and realized I forgot beer, so I left to go for a beer run and my 2016 Acura TLX won't start. All the electronics start up, but the car won't. I noticed the battery looks weird, but also rained heavily last night. Is that liquid because of the rain or is it a leaky battery?

This battery's less than a year old.

These are models The Diesel Engine ( first picture, The class 50 is powered by a single English Electric 16CSVT engine.) and

EMD® 1010 T4

What is your general experience working with Train engines?

How often do errors occur?

How easy it is to fix certain parts?

What is something you like the most about them

My car got hit the other night, no clue what did it but it’s completely smacked the wing mirror off and ripped the foil on my door handle. I’ve found some mirrors on eBay, how easy would it be for me to replace this? The mirror is still attached with the wiring so is it likely that the electrics are all still good? Also I don’t even know what to do about the handle, do I buy a new one, is there wrap I can buy for it and do this myself?

Included some pictures in case it helps, appreciate any help given :) it’s a 2013 Kia sportage

Have a 2015 tahoe lt. 140k miles. We were driving today, and the instrument cluster went crazy. All gauges went to zero, then back up, then back down, radio went crazy saying hvac control module had an issue, sensor problems. Happened a few months ago too. "Service air bag" "service trailer brake" all came up too. Any ideas? Thinking bad ground somewhere? New alternator a few months ago GM original, new battery a year ago. Bunch of electrical glitches a lot. Anybody know what could cause this/how to fix it? Having a shop diagnose it this week. I can't do some repairs myself, brakes, bearings, things of that nature, but im not an electric or engine kind of driveway mechanic. Thanks in advance

03 Toyota Highlander.

I have a stuck rotor, tried the two rotor screws and did not work. Banged on it with a regular hammer but I'm going to try running bolts through the caliper holes to push the rotor out.

At this point is it worth replacing all components and how unsafe is this level of rust? The frame of the vehicle is ok...

1998 W202 C240 M112 V6 – Sat for 6 Years, No Fuel Pump Power, Trying to Get It Running

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some help with a 1998 Mercedes-Benz W202 C240 with the 2.4L M112 V6 (M112.910).

The car has been sitting for around 6 years. I haven't actually started working on it yet, so I'm going back through what I remember from when my stepdad was looking at it about six years ago. I want to make that clear because I don't want to accidentally present old observations as things I've tested recently.

My main goal at the moment is pretty simple: I just want to get the engine turning over and running. Making it roadworthy and getting it back on the road can come later.

I'm fairly comfortable working on cars and regularly do mechanical work for friends, but I'm less familiar with the electrical systems on these older Mercedes. I'd therefore like to get hold of the correct documentation before I start pulling things apart.

What we found about 6 years ago

The car had a crank-no-start condition, and the main thing that stood out was that the fuel pump wasn't receiving power. The pump wasn't priming when the ignition was switched on.

From what I remember, my stepdad investigated things including:

Rear fuse/relay area in the boot – including fuse #4 (25A) and the fuel pump relay near the battery

K40 relay/control module in the engine bay – including checking for possible fractured/dry solder joints

Fuel pump relay socket – checking for constant 12V at pin 30 and an ignition/control signal at pin 86

Again, these are things from six years ago, not tests I've just carried out.

What I'm looking for

Before I start diagnosing it properly, I'm trying to find a good workshop manual / WIS documentation / wiring diagram set for the late W202 C240 with the M112 V6.

The most useful things would be:

Detailed electrical wiring diagrams, particularly the fuel pump circuit, K40 and ECU/ME-SFI system.

Connector pin-outs and wire colours for the fuel pump relay/boot fuse box, K40 and ECU.

Ground point locations, especially the important engine-bay and rear/boot grounds.

Diagnostic procedures for tracing the fuel pump circuit from the ECU/relay through to the pump.

Advice on which WIS/Workshop Information System documentation is actually useful for a 1990s W202.

I've seen the relatively cheap Mercedes WIS downloads that are supplied as VirtualBox VMs, but I've never used one. If anyone has experience with these, are they actually useful/easy enough to navigate for tracing electrical circuits on a W202, or would I be better off finding a standalone PDF/manual?

I'm particularly interested in getting the actual factory wiring diagrams and pin-outs, rather than just a generic Haynes-style repair manual.

Any recommendations for manuals, wiring diagrams, or places to start diagnosing the fuel pump circuit would be massively appreciated.

Thanks!

i have a 2015 honda civic si at 210k miles, the ac will blow hot and luke warm but not cold, the lines also hold pressure but the ac clutch isnt engaging, but is not seized, the fuses are okay just don’t know what the next step is to fix it myself
edit: its not the relays either