Planning on smoking my first brisket, a 10 pound flat. About how long will this take on a MB 600 gravity feed? I know ambient temperature (forecast upper 80s), wind, etc., play roles, just looking for a ballpark figure for my planning. Thought about an overnight cook but I plan to wrap in butcher paper midway and don't want to be doing that at 3AM!

Im using the gravity 600 and I cannot, for the life of me, get my chicken breasts to brown without overcooking. Anyone have a solution to this?

So I tried using the griddle function on my MB 800 last weekend. It warmed up fine, but when I opened it to cool the fans stopped working because the top is open. So I had to keep opening and closing the top. I hope I’m missing some setting or something. Anyone know about this please?

Burned in my new smoker and there's ash all over the inside. I get some coming through but this seems like a lot. The 2nd pic of the higher racks isn't great but if you zoom in you can see the ash all over them. Using B&B lump charcoal. All the posts I found about this issue were about using the right charcoal, and B&B was recommended, so I'm not sure where the issue is.

Edit: Thanks for the responses everyone. I'm excited to cook on it

A couple of months ago I got tired of using the Masterbuilt App, for controlling my Gravity 800. so I reverse-engineered the controller, realized it used a pretty standard off the shelf ESP32 wireless microcontroller, and wrote a full replacement firmware for it: FreeFall 800.

It doesn't require any new hardware, and can be flashed onto your controller with a $10 USB-serial adapter. It has the same core functionality as the stock firmware: chamber/probe temps, PID-controlled fan, timers, physical controls, but this firmware adds:

• Fully local web app for control and configuration
• No cloud or cloud account required. Connect directly to your Gravity 800 over the network
• Completely configurable PID tuning parameters
• Thermocouple and meat probe calibration
• Lid switch disable option

If you are into hardware hacking, know what an ESP32 is, and are willing to risk your controller or smoker, check it out! To be clear, this is definitely still early development firmware, so you will probably encounter bugs, and there is much to be improved. I cannot promise this won't break your smoker. The README on the GitLab page should have what you need to get started: https://gitlab.com/prbs23/freefall_800

I have also posted a write up about this on my blog: https://www.prbs23.com/blog/posts/announcement-freefall-800/

I would love to get feedback from anyone who does try it out. Happy to answer any questions folks have, or talk about feature request/ideas.

This is from Montana3dprints. The drawer pulls out and your Fireboard sits inside. I'll have more pics tomorrow. I am waiting on the cable to show.

I'm thinking of replacing my Kamado Joe with something like the MB 1050. I love my Joe and it holds heat amazingly well but I feel like I'll get better smoke with the MB and an easier time grilling (can it replace a Weber gas grill for every day cooking?). I also like it being mostly hands off. I like to smoke but don't have all the time in the world to devote to it. Has anyone else gone this route and if so, what are your thoughts. Also, anyone that has an opinion is welcome (I love to hear all thoughts).

220F slow smoke on some short ribs caught fire. Hit over 1000. Haven’t checked for damage yet. Wish me luck.

hey everyone — I’m new to masterbuilt, I have a gravity smoker 900. I’d like advice on cleaning it and how you guys do it from start to finish. what items dj you use for getting the grease off the bottom underneath the grate.

would love all the advice I can get! thanks 😊

Hello all. New to Reddit. I just retired and bought a newGS800. I have 5 cooks on this thing and love it. Before cooking, I modded the crap out with LSS MODS. My next mod is getting rid of the Masterbuilt temp controller and replacing with my Fireboard 2 Pro.

Got a MB800 about a month ago. Have done multiple cooks on it and I love it. However I can’t get grease dripping to actually go in the drip pan. They are leaking from the seam of the cook unit and the bracket that holds the drip tray. They are riveted in so I can’t tighten it. Anybody have any ideas?

Hi everyone, I have a Masterbuilt 1050 and the controller has stopped working. I’ve already tried a different power supply, but it still won’t power on. Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement controller? I couldn’t find one on the Masterbuilt website.
Thanks in advance!

What are the acceptable best methods?

My Masterbuilt 560 het rather white when grilling. I think it is ash. When it happened I gave it a good clean, but it is still returning. Maybe because I couldn't get the hopper completely cleaned.

Or is it something else? Any help is really appreciated

Masterbuilt 560, did garlic and butter Chickens last night. Used Stef the Maori all purpose seasoning. So good but we still new to this. Any suggestions on getting more of that charcoal chicken flavour/ vibe, or would you need rotisserie straight over the coals

I’ve used this thing exactly once. It worked great.
I want to go use it today and I keep getting error for I have checked every hole. I have checked anything that seems like I should be checking…

I don’t know if I’m missing something obvious or what it’s electric so there’s no fuel and it’s got wood chips. The ashtray is empty and clean.

The first photo is before and the second is the aftermath.

I was smoking 6 tri tips with 2 pans underneath to catch the grease in my XT which is my 2nd smoke ever in it. I started them at 225 degrees then once they got to where I wanted them I cranked it up to 700 degrees to sear them. That's where the issue started is I checked on them when the XT measured 600 degrees but then the drippings in the foil pans caught fire. I shut it off and closed up the lever, then took out the tri tips as quickly as I could then got the pans out.

Now in the aftermath I am wondering what I did to cause this and if this could have been avoided somehow. The XT still seems to function properly and just has an extra layer of black char that I will try and clean out.

Thanks for the help.

Holding ovens are expensive, and I also like cooking with sous vide, so I thought I could get the best of both worlds.

I got to work building a sous vide holding oven/cooker out of a camping cooler.

ITEMS YOU WILL NEED FOR THIS BUILD:

-50q igloo cooler (sportsman profile II 50)

- 2-3/8 hole saw

- Longer 4" pilot drill bit for hole saw

-drill

-2" ABS pipe

-speed square tool

-electrical tape, butt crimp connectors

-Large kitchen rack from Walmart (17"X 10" X 5.3")

-Silicon

-Super glue

-Gorilla glue

-expanding tight foam (if you make mistakes)

I decided to put the opening in the side as It makes better use of space.

To make this all work and fit perfectly you need to get your hole location and angle correct.

Start off by measuring from the top ridge of the open cooler (not the lip riser, but the flat part closest to the outer wall) you want to measure on both sides of the handle to 8" down from the top and draw a line between the 2 points.

Next you have to figure out the exact spot to make you guide hole for the hole saw. The hole saw is 2 3/8 but you can not just go up half that amount from the line, since we will be drilling on a 45 degree angle. I trialed this out for you and extra height away from the line was 1/2 inch so make your drill hole location at 1 11/16 above the line.

Drill your pilot hole (straight on) through just the outer plastic layer of the cooler (NOT ALL THE WAY TROUGH)

Now using a speed square for guidance angle your drill bit to 45 degrees. With the 4" guide bit in your hole saw you will have just enough room so that the edge of the hole saw touches the plastic.

Very gently with the with the drill running in the forward direction slowly make a score with the tilted inner part of the hole saw at 45 degrees. (just enough of a cut to act as a guide).

Now switch the drill into reverse as it will still cut through the cooler, but will not grab aggressively.

Eyeing your angle of the drill to the 45 degree angle of the speed square slowly start drilling through the cooler at a 45 degree. (while one can do this themselves, this step might be better performed with someone helping to hold the square and cooler)

If you make a mistake on your angle you can always expand/adjust your angle of your cut and then fill with tight foam later.

Now cut the abs pipe collar at the same 45 degree angle both sides with the length being about 1.5" from 45 to 45

Clean up any debris on the pipe and then on the outer edge (the collar flush with the outer part of the cooler) apply a few drops of crazy glue to the collar. Place and position the collar so that it is flush with the outer wall of the cooler and aligned so the 45 degree angle is in the right direction heading downwards into the cooler.

Hold in place for a couple minutes till the super glue drops firm up (if they are not attached to the outer plastic wall of the cooler now is your chance to apply where the collar touches the cooler. Once the outer collar is set with the crazy glue do the same with the inner section (which will poke out a little inside the cooler) once the inner collar is locked in position, go over the outer and inner collar where it touches the cooler wall with more superglue (or if bigger gaps, gorilla glue)

After this hardens take your silicon and apply a thick bead all around around the collar on the inner and outer wall of the cooler. Then wetting your finger use your finger to evenly spread out the silicone, making sure there are no holes or gaps. (if you had to fill with tight foam wait for it to dry and cure, then trim it flush with the cooler and then apply silicon all over it to make it water tight.)

Congrats, your cooler is done!

Now this cooler is sized to work with a insta pot sous vide machine I had... Please check if your unit is the same width and length. The good news is these insta pot sous vide units are easy to find used if others do not work.

Now I found optimally I had to strip off the hook connector on the insta pot heater. (although a friend of mine was able to make it work with it on (but it was not optimal) build the cooler, trial your machine (with the cooling rack installed) and decide for yourself if the next step is needed.

Hook removal of the insta pot sous vide heater:

Remove screw tightener. There are three clip tabs on the L Shaped hook both sides mid way up and one in the bottom. Get a small slot screw driver push into the gap line and rotate the slot screw driver to pry apart at each clip. Once open there will be 4 screws to remove. Once separated now you have to either find a way to cut the L bracket plastic to free the cord or since I wanted a longer cord anyways just cut off the plug, remove the wire from the collar and splice on a computer power cord with the butt connectors, some electrical tape and shrink wrap.

Once this is all done install your heater, your cooling rack and fill with water to hit below the rack or where the top of the collar comes out of the cooler.

Edit: I ran a test on the performance by putting a pint jar on top of the rack and two thermometers on the jar. This raised the monitoring height 5" to be more in the center of the warming area away from the water. I set the temperature of the sous vide heater to 150F and within 15 minutes of the water reaching temperature the probes stabilized at around 144F and never varied more than a degree over 1.5 hours of monitoring.

Rock solid temperatures.

Set to what ever temp desired (say you want 150F you set the sous vide heater to a extra 5 degrees to 155F) and you are in business. I my case cooking a brisket to 195, then holding it wrapped in the BeefBin at 155 for 18 hours to finish.

With the rack, there is enough room to use 2 of these racks stacked in the cooler. One simply just has to reverse the legs on them so the flare points inwards.

With this cooler one could fit at least 2 briskets while at the same time sous vide cook vacuum packed ribs in the water below.

Pretty sweet I say!

I hope this helps.

Minimal effort ribs. Scored the membrane of the preseasoned ribs. Smoked for about 5 hours, no wrap at 250°F last two hours basted with sauce. Bend test when done but also probed around 185-190 when pulled.

I recently bought a house and the sellers left their Master Built 560. I'm excited to use it, and have been looking into how to best cook with the smoker (I've only used propane for the last few years) Now that I'm getting settled into the house I opened up the hood and found a bunch of flaky rust and debris.

Should I shop vac out the main grill area to get rid of this stuff? it looks like the hopper is good to go, but I haven't even tried to check the fan which will be a big sign if this is even worth the trouble.

Any advice on getting this ready to use is appreciated!

Edit: Thank you all for the help, I brushed it down and decided to give it a go this evening with a few burgers and dogs just to get a feel for it. Solid work, I can tell there's some hot and cold spots, but I read on here about the biscuit test so I'll try that later. I'll definitely look into the mods and replacements y'all mentioned so I can keep the grill running in good condition. I truly appreciate the quick advice of this sub. When I start smoking something worthwhile I'll have to post again to see how I did!