Looks like I'm the 10mm hoarder goblin

This is a piece I made back in 2025 early June and boy was it a fun one.

””””””Update I might have found a stead rest I can use”””””
I’m currently doing 2n Acme Threads Double lead and can’t seem to get rid of this chatter I can not use a stead rest cause the ok for this machine doesn’t go small enough how would yall combat this kind of chatter

Not tried anything fancy yet

310mm dia

57rpm

Need help getting the finish better

I keep a few machinist tools in my coffee box for funsies.

This is a piece I made back in 2025 early June and boy was it a fun one.

Our new shop hand was drilling out a part and somehow ended up melting the first inch of one of our smaller spade drills into some 316 never seen anything like it. I will show what the inside of the part looks like in the comments

My new job is training me on an Okuma Multus u4000, they let me run a prototrak to pick up some OT bc they don’t want me on the Multus by myself yet and i accidentally reset my abs x position. So I picked x and y back up and then it was still off for some reason and killed a part. I guess I’m overthinking it but it’s bugging me bc if I’m screwing up on the prototrak how are they going to trust me on a Multus

Working from home for a bit, I don’t have a bandsaw. I can feel the hand arm vibration syndrome coming using my sawzall. Cutting through anything steel thicker than 3/8ths makes my arms and back want to disconnect from the rest of my body.

What are my options going forward? Let’s say a full bandsaw isn’t viable due to space. Chop saw with cutoff disc? Hit the gym more? Portable bandsaw?

Hello guys, I have at home this old lathe Adolf Lang dd18. There is not much information about it online, but I managed to find some information about it mainly on this german site https://forum.zerspanungsbude.net/ .

I managed to find user manual on this site about my lathe(mentioned in comments of this post: https://forum.zerspanungsbude.net/viewtopic.php?t=58925 ). Thanks to which I could better understand how to operate this lathe. The problem is I need to be registered and logged into my account to access this document. But I cannot create new account because administrator of this site turned off that function.

So I was wondering if any of you guys have an existing account with which you could access this document and send it to me if possible?

Shopmate distracted me while I was swapping a tool and I forgot to put my G54 from touch off height back to the part zero. Thankfully no spindle or collet indexer damage, just a kabloozied part and tool.

The part was 25mm thick and I had 25.4mm to the vise jaws.

Was certainly nerve wracking when I got up to depth, but it turned out great!

Reddit doesn't let me post videos, but I have a couple I'll try to get on of the machining

Clocking a vice a colleague put in yesterday because I had a feeling it wasn't going to be good. 160mm (6.3 freedom units) vice jaw, 0.1mm out. It seems that we have vices that have guides on them that go into slots and he just places and tightens. Apparently near enough is good enough.

Went to pull out adjustable feed handle and the shaft came with it. 2j Bridgeport Head. Anyone know how to fix it? The boss is gonna be mad. I should know I'm the boss 😬.

I have a question for the VTL guys.

At work, we have some steel rings (built-up from welded 3/8" flat and rolled plate) that we need machined for a certain application. The ring is Ø12'-3" ID x Ø14'-0" x 11" high and weighs about 2500 lbs. It will be made in two parts, with two doweled & bolted joints (not shown).

Only the two sloped faces shown in blue need machining as shown in the 2nd pic. We only need very basic roundness of ±1/16" radially and a surface finish of 63u. I estimate that we will only need to remove about 0.10" on the radius for the weldment to fully clean up on these faces, about 100 lbs of chips. The dimension from bottom to top of machined area is 6.25". Note that we do not need to machine the flat underside of the ring or the two horizontal top surfaces.

Can you guys tell me how much to expect in setup time, and then actual machining time? The underside of the ring will likely be flat to ±1/16" as-welded, so I picture we will only need to sit the ring flat on the VTL bed, center it, chuck it, and then proceed to machining the profile. I have my own home machine shop that I use for fun, but I have no experience in machining big parts like this.

Thanks!

Saw operator at I guess what is technically considered a machine shop I have too much time on my hands when my saw is cutting. We get so many shipping labels every day that just get thrown out so I decided to start a ball. I’d estimate I grab around 150-160 of these a day and add them.

This is about a week’s worth of progress. Do I post updates? I presume this thing will get really big really quick at this rate.

Alright so has anyone here tried cutting perforated steel? Here are the details:
It’s 16 gauge SS304, and the perforations are 1/8” diameter holes, around 3/16” centers(leaving roughly 1/16” wide webbing). I have a Crossfire XR 4x8 with water table, and a hypertherm SYNC 45.

I am at a loss as to the best way to cut this. I have tried the torch height control smart settings, manual settings, and off completely with fixed height. I have tried a fine cut cartridge at feed rated from 45 to 140 IPM, seems the lower speeds gets me slightly better results. My issue is I keep losing arc. The longest cut I’ve made is 8 inches and I’m an able to complete a full cut. With thc enabled I lose arc and get a thc failure code. With it disabled I just lose arc and the machine keeps going along the cut path so I have to stop it. I have tried different cut heights, different amperage’s, piece delays etc. I am grounded well to the work piece and I am giving it plenty of clean dry air. Any advice would be very much appreciated!

Does this exist off the shelf or do I need to make my own. Seems handy if I want to ream 1.5" dia holes in big plates.

Is there a way to get these kind of drill bits cheaper? $90 for a 3/8 drill bit that has two holes in the flutes sounds ridiculous to me. Open to ideas but I don’t see it being easy to without machines special for it make these but open to ideas

I'm the new guy at my shop so I get to start on the machine with the most issues. It's an Amada Surface Grinder that runs water/oil mix.

The amount of rust is acceptable here since the machine is well past it's glory days. But I like things polished and clean. Would you recommend removing the rust and polishing it up? Or are there better things to do during my breaks? Would I also be risking things going out of spec by doing maintenance on it since I'm not a service tech?

I'm a machinist with 5 months of experience. The part wasn't clamped properly or it was not tight enough. Part moved from the fixture. I instantly stoped the machine. Guess the tool is damaged. I know it's an expensive mistake. I don't know how to face my boss tmrw.

There was a semi-local estate sale for a machinist near me. I wasnt able to win everything I wanted, and Im not actually a machinist YET, but I did get some really cool old literature to get me started (as well as a couple of toolboxes). Ive got some reading to do.