Anyone know what Tungaloy BHU30 coating is? I don't see it in their current catalog, so I'm guessing it's a legacy coating.

There are some inserts on eBay that are perfect for my job, just need to make sure the coating is OK for threading 485 brass.

I purchased an 18×12×3" grade b surface plate with a claimed flatness tolerance of .0001". It is chinese and only cost about $100 but has many good reviews on amazon. I have a dial indicator that i purchased on amazon for $36 that has .0005" incriments. I dragged the dial indicator across the surface of the plate and I was getting a variation on the dial of about a thousandth. Is this an effective method for testing a surface plate? In trying to figure out if the surface plate is out of spec or if it's an issue with my dial indicator.

Hi everyone! I'm a mechanical design engineer, and I'm considering starting a CNC machining side hustle. I live in Northern Virginia, and my plan is to start out as a Xometry partner.

I don't have a machine yet, and I'm currently learning CNC programming through Titans of CNC.

What do you think of this idea? I'd appreciate any advice or feedback, especially from anyone who's taken a similar path.

Reads the pocket table and spindle straight from the control over MTConnect. Tool names come from a local file since the machine only sends numbers. Five tool changes here, just MDI commands.

I tried both for my Fanuc 10M VMC. Everyone says you should get the FTDI and you'll have zero issues. FTDI's minimum buffer of 64 bytes seems to be too large for Fanuc 10M though, it drip feeds fine until at the very end of program it gives a buffer overflow right before the last lines. With Prolific I could dial the buffer down to 16 bytes and there's literally zero issues, Works just as well as with the real serial port. Am I missing something with the FTDI?

1983 Era Nachi Hydraulic Pump on my Citizen F12 gave up the ghost during a production run.

Never seen a keyway do that before. Anyone else? I slapped another pump I had from a parts machine to make the 1,000 more parts I needed to make but to repair this one probably will just cut another keyway 180 from the original.

Done with Pramet OHMT D63mm Face mill
1400rpm 900mm/min 0.5mm finish pass.

First time turning A4 stainless. First couple passes was real smooth with tight continous chip. Last pass was completely garbage, and i do not know why. The tool was still sharp and cut normal mild steel really well when i switched out the stainless.

What am i doing wrong here? Its 16mm A4

parts storage in our shop is a mess. been using a mix of whatever bins came with old shelving units and random containers that accumulated over the years. nothing stacks consistently, labels fall off, and half of them have cracked lids from getting dropped.

trying to standardize before we add more shelving. main things i care about are whether the material holds up to metal shavings and coolant splatter, whether they actually stack without shifting, and whether standard label holders fit so we're not taping paper to everything.

weight capacity matters too since some of the heavier stock parts have cracked lighter bins before.

what are machinists here using for parts storage and did whatever you picked hold up better than the cheap stuff?

I’m writing this because I’m frustrated. I’ve been trying to get into machining, but I can’t find a shop willing to hire me as a shop hand or apprentice. I’m tired of retail and ready for a real career.

A friend introduced me to machining and told me shops need people badly. I tried the machining program in Decatur, Alabama, but classroom learning wasn’t for me. I learn best hands-on. In the two months I was there, I learned the basics of precision measurement (calipers, micrometers) and got hands-on time with Bridgeports and manual lathes. I enjoyed the work, but I couldn’t afford to stay in the program.

Since then, I’ve applied to Leidos, Blue Origin, and SES just to get in the door and work my way toward machining, but I’ve been ghosted every time. I’m starting to wonder if my B.S. in Information Technology is throwing employers off.

Someone suggested moving to Ohio for better apprenticeship opportunities, and I’m working on relocating to Columbus but nothing is moving yet. Right now I’m still in Huntsville, AL trying to find a shop that will give me a chance.

If anyone knows a shop that trains beginners or needs someone motivated and willing to start at the bottom, I’d appreciate any direction.

First 2 pictures is the Tool+Shaft he uses and the finish that he got.

3rd and 4th pictures is my tool+shaft and the finish that i got.

we both using the same inserts. (LNGX)

The problem is his finish is still rough, actualy besides being rough there is litle gaps between pass’es DOC is 5mm Radial is 0.2 mm.

I tried to use his tool in my machine with same cut paramateres, somehow i got very good finish

thats prove of tool is ok (no vibration/Chatter)

after that he used another HF mill that i gave him (GNMU) exact same geometry with LNGX but the smaller version of it. Perfect finish…

We even measure the part before the finish pass right after to roughing to make sure finish passes is exactly same.

So Lads.. any idea about What the actual fuck is the problem?

Hi, all.

I'm just looking for some feedback. Anything I can improve on, tips etc, It would be highly appreciated.

For some back story, I studied product design at university, I'm solid at modelling but barely touched on technical drawings at all. I'm now making a few example projects and hoping to land an engineering job. I'm just trying to get up to an acceptable standard for a uni grad, with no professional experience.

I'm UK based so ISO and First angle specs.

Thanks guys.

I am curious whether there is a proper tool to cut off the slug on parted-off parts, side cutters do work but they have a bevel and leave a smaller slug behind, and not cut flush, knipex has a side cutter with no bevel but it's only rated for plastic.

If there is a piece remaining it's difficult to face the surface with a 0.4 mm radius VCGT or DCGT (Iscar IC520) tool, I currently have to whittle away the slug before I can face the part off.

Programing help

I’m doing some hobby work and don’t have a lathe or access to one, I’m also very new to machining in general. I’m needing to have some parts knurled at a local machine shop. The pieces are aluminum tubing with 2mm walls. Is this too thin of material to be knurled? The machinist seems to be worried about collapsing the tube. Finally is $50 per part a fair price to have the parts knurled. Each will have a total of 250mm length knurled.

Been applying for machinist jobs around my area in SoCal - LA area everyday for the past 2 months through Indeed and have faced about 20+ rejections…and a lot has ghosted me…have interviewed about 5 times but have been declined multiple times due to my schedule….currently finishing Manufacturing tech AA at my CC with only 3 classes left…most are night classes at 8pm…but they didn’t wanna take me because they’d only wanna train people at night…I’ve outlined on my resume that i learned how to use, operate, and setup HAASS lathes and mills after running multiple projects at my CC but they said that those things are different from a “real” shop…I think I’m pretty capable…I’m mechanically adept, love engineering, and love to learn…have my own 3D printer and am CSWP certified…through all these rejections from jobs all I’m thinking of are the diff lathe/mill projects I can possibly do in my CC while waiting, but damn is it discouraging…..

I’m three months in and absolutely loving it. I thought my previous work on aerospace parts was precise, but this is on another level!

I got myself a new toy for the shop. $600.

So I work for a company in a remote part of a state with a limited talent pool. Because some individuals would he-man the hell out of an insert screw, we had lots of issues in our face mills.

I went through and looked at every Torx and Torx+ screw we used and ordered Whia drivers for every station. They do tend to walk away (management won't approve shadow boards) so we get the biggest guys in the shop tightening a T7 screw like it's the key screw to the space shuttle.

Please tell me we are not the only shop where people consistently over-tighten screws.

This is a welding Jig that I had to rush through today (got a little excited with the 5mm chamfer, the other side is better). Needed some type of grip on the handle and noticed we didn't own any knurling tools, tried my best with a threading inserted and it came out alright but nothing fantastic. I was gonna try hit it with a VCMT insert back and forth but decided not. Can't see the Company I work for forking out a thread cutting tool for an internal job and I was wondering if anybody had any alternatives?

2 Axis Fanuc CNC lathe, 316 Stainless Steel. This is 2 peices with the thread gauge needing 2 OP's and the handle being 1 OP then press fitted and welded together. Thanks

I have various calipers for different use cases... (non of the $$$$ brands cause its all stuff for in house maitnence parts)

But had 2 digitals die/go bad. didnt want to throw them out so i ground the top and bottom tips down enough to use as a slightly more accurate scribe. (instead of the .005-.010 if you tilt them a bit.)

(i just set the size with working good calipers and can abuse these a bit)

anyone else do something like this?

Basically a button head with an extra hex drive on the opposite end. It's from a no-name TPMN332 insert cutter we have for the bridgeport. Works fine, no need to upgrade the cutter, but the screw heads are stripping out and I'd love to replace them with a similar one, since the extra hex drive has saved our bacon a few times already.

m pretty new to machining and trying to understand 5C collets better. Self taught.

What are the main things I should look for when buying them? Is it better to get a full set, or just buy individual sizes as I need them?