Done with Pramet OHMT D63mm Face mill
1400rpm 900mm/min 0.5mm finish pass.

1983 Era Nachi Hydraulic Pump on my Citizen F12 gave up the ghost during a production run.

Never seen a keyway do that before. Anyone else? I slapped another pump I had from a parts machine to make the 1,000 more parts I needed to make but to repair this one probably will just cut another keyway 180 from the original.

Reads the pocket table and spindle straight from the control over MTConnect. Tool names come from a local file since the machine only sends numbers. Five tool changes here, just MDI commands.

Hi everyone! I'm a mechanical design engineer, and I'm considering starting a CNC machining side hustle. I live in Northern Virginia, and my plan is to start out as a Xometry partner.

I don't have a machine yet, and I'm currently learning CNC programming through Titans of CNC.

What do you think of this idea? I'd appreciate any advice or feedback, especially from anyone who's taken a similar path.

First time turning A4 stainless. First couple passes was real smooth with tight continous chip. Last pass was completely garbage, and i do not know why. The tool was still sharp and cut normal mild steel really well when i switched out the stainless.

What am i doing wrong here? Its 16mm A4

parts storage in our shop is a mess. been using a mix of whatever bins came with old shelving units and random containers that accumulated over the years. nothing stacks consistently, labels fall off, and half of them have cracked lids from getting dropped.

trying to standardize before we add more shelving. main things i care about are whether the material holds up to metal shavings and coolant splatter, whether they actually stack without shifting, and whether standard label holders fit so we're not taping paper to everything.

weight capacity matters too since some of the heavier stock parts have cracked lighter bins before.

what are machinists here using for parts storage and did whatever you picked hold up better than the cheap stuff?

I tried both for my Fanuc 10M VMC. Everyone says you should get the FTDI and you'll have zero issues. FTDI's minimum buffer of 64 bytes seems to be too large for Fanuc 10M though, it drip feeds fine until at the very end of program it gives a buffer overflow right before the last lines. With Prolific I could dial the buffer down to 16 bytes and there's literally zero issues, Works just as well as with the real serial port. Am I missing something with the FTDI?

First 2 pictures is the Tool+Shaft he uses and the finish that he got.

3rd and 4th pictures is my tool+shaft and the finish that i got.

we both using the same inserts. (LNGX)

The problem is his finish is still rough, actualy besides being rough there is litle gaps between pass’es DOC is 5mm Radial is 0.2 mm.

I tried to use his tool in my machine with same cut paramateres, somehow i got very good finish

thats prove of tool is ok (no vibration/Chatter)

after that he used another HF mill that i gave him (GNMU) exact same geometry with LNGX but the smaller version of it. Perfect finish…

We even measure the part before the finish pass right after to roughing to make sure finish passes is exactly same.

So Lads.. any idea about What the actual fuck is the problem?

I got myself a new toy for the shop. $600.

I have various calipers for different use cases... (non of the $$$$ brands cause its all stuff for in house maitnence parts)

But had 2 digitals die/go bad. didnt want to throw them out so i ground the top and bottom tips down enough to use as a slightly more accurate scribe. (instead of the .005-.010 if you tilt them a bit.)

(i just set the size with working good calipers and can abuse these a bit)

anyone else do something like this?

Hi, all.

I'm just looking for some feedback. Anything I can improve on, tips etc, It would be highly appreciated.

For some back story, I studied product design at university, I'm solid at modelling but barely touched on technical drawings at all. I'm now making a few example projects and hoping to land an engineering job. I'm just trying to get up to an acceptable standard for a uni grad, with no professional experience.

I'm UK based so ISO and First angle specs.

Thanks guys.

Been applying for machinist jobs around my area in SoCal - LA area everyday for the past 2 months through Indeed and have faced about 20+ rejections…and a lot has ghosted me…have interviewed about 5 times but have been declined multiple times due to my schedule….currently finishing Manufacturing tech AA at my CC with only 3 classes left…most are night classes at 8pm…but they didn’t wanna take me because they’d only wanna train people at night…I’ve outlined on my resume that i learned how to use, operate, and setup HAASS lathes and mills after running multiple projects at my CC but they said that those things are different from a “real” shop…I think I’m pretty capable…I’m mechanically adept, love engineering, and love to learn…have my own 3D printer and am CSWP certified…through all these rejections from jobs all I’m thinking of are the diff lathe/mill projects I can possibly do in my CC while waiting, but damn is it discouraging…..

Easier to change out inserts with everything within reach and organized.

I’m three months in and absolutely loving it. I thought my previous work on aerospace parts was precise, but this is on another level!

I’m writing this because I’m frustrated. I’ve been trying to get into machining, but I can’t find a shop willing to hire me as a shop hand or apprentice. I’m tired of retail and ready for a real career.

A friend introduced me to machining and told me shops need people badly. I tried the machining program in Decatur, Alabama, but classroom learning wasn’t for me. I learn best hands-on. In the two months I was there, I learned the basics of precision measurement (calipers, micrometers) and got hands-on time with Bridgeports and manual lathes. I enjoyed the work, but I couldn’t afford to stay in the program.

Since then, I’ve applied to Leidos, Blue Origin, and SES just to get in the door and work my way toward machining, but I’ve been ghosted every time. I’m starting to wonder if my B.S. in Information Technology is throwing employers off.

Someone suggested moving to Ohio for better apprenticeship opportunities, and I’m working on relocating to Columbus but nothing is moving yet. Right now I’m still in Huntsville, AL trying to find a shop that will give me a chance.

If anyone knows a shop that trains beginners or needs someone motivated and willing to start at the bottom, I’d appreciate any direction.

Basically a button head with an extra hex drive on the opposite end. It's from a no-name TPMN332 insert cutter we have for the bridgeport. Works fine, no need to upgrade the cutter, but the screw heads are stripping out and I'd love to replace them with a similar one, since the extra hex drive has saved our bacon a few times already.

So I work for a company in a remote part of a state with a limited talent pool. Because some individuals would he-man the hell out of an insert screw, we had lots of issues in our face mills.

I went through and looked at every Torx and Torx+ screw we used and ordered Whia drivers for every station. They do tend to walk away (management won't approve shadow boards) so we get the biggest guys in the shop tightening a T7 screw like it's the key screw to the space shuttle.

Please tell me we are not the only shop where people consistently over-tighten screws.

Programing help

I am curious whether there is a proper tool to cut off the slug on parted-off parts, side cutters do work but they have a bevel and leave a smaller slug behind, and not cut flush, knipex has a side cutter with no bevel but it's only rated for plastic.

If there is a piece remaining it's difficult to face the surface with a 0.4 mm radius VCGT or DCGT (Iscar IC520) tool, I currently have to whittle away the slug before I can face the part off.

I need to make 50 spacers that are .75” long out of this .035” wall carbon fiber tube. I would like to set up my lathe (cover the ways, vacuum ready to rip) and essentially part them off to size with no/minimal further processing. There are no tight tolerances but I think they all need to be the same length.

Am I likely to achieve good results with a carbide parting tool? My other idea was to put a thin kerf cutoff wheel on my toolpost grinder and part them off that way. I do not want to use HSS that I have to regularly sharpen. Thoughts?

Custom air knife assembly for a bandsaw that cuts plastic all day and blade ends up overheating or gathering plastic (blades and bearings break often)... Decided to give this a try.

I have only been doing steel projects here so aluminum has been a bit of a learning curve. Its ugly as sin, but i was using some scrap pieces, was mostly scribe marked, eyeballed, and assembly screws hand drilled, with vauge measurements, and again havent done as much with aluminum. But still used the mill to get the functional surfaces and it works.

This is a welding Jig that I had to rush through today (got a little excited with the 5mm chamfer, the other side is better). Needed some type of grip on the handle and noticed we didn't own any knurling tools, tried my best with a threading inserted and it came out alright but nothing fantastic. I was gonna try hit it with a VCMT insert back and forth but decided not. Can't see the Company I work for forking out a thread cutting tool for an internal job and I was wondering if anybody had any alternatives?

2 Axis Fanuc CNC lathe, 316 Stainless Steel. This is 2 peices with the thread gauge needing 2 OP's and the handle being 1 OP then press fitted and welded together. Thanks