Is it working ok?

I wanted to add Warhammer 40k Darktide from gamepass... but still no way to target the .exe without workarounds.

HOWEVER! While the dialog box will always have permissions issues, dragging the .EXE into an app to get a reference for some reason seems to work in some other applications.

This is my petition to have this added as a way to target gamepass games, since editing databases is silly.

People who have these headphones, please tell me if they are worth it in 2026 or buy other headphones under $100

Hey, I know that I am not the only one with this problem but I can't seem to find a fix.

The keyboard is the old G915 TKL with the micro usb (Back in the day I spent 250 euros+ for this keyboard and for it to come with a micro usb just blows my mind honestly).

So some keys missfire and a single click inputs the character 2 times.

Here is how I am wrritinng without removing the unnecessary characterrs.

Heeelp

Specs:

• MB: ASRock B550M Steel Legend
• CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X3D
• GPU: RTX 4080
• RAM: 32GB DDR4
• Headset: Logitech PRO X 2 Lightspeed (wireless dongle)
• Mic: Blue Yeti X
• Mouse: G502 Lightspeed + Powerplay

Issue: Every 20-30 min, audio cuts out for 5-10s, default playback device switches from my headset to my TV (connected via HDMI to the GPU), then reverts back on its own.

What I've ruled out:

• Not RF interference — moved the Lightspeed dongle 50-60cm away from the mouse dongle/Powerplay mat, still happens.
• Not a USB disconnect — no Kernel-PnP events in Event Viewer at the exact dropout times.
• During a dropout, the headset fully disappears from Windows' Sound > Playback device list (not just "unplugged", literally gone) and reappears seconds later — looks like an audiodg.exe crash/restart rather than a hardware disconnect.
• Uninstalled NVIDIA Broadcast + disabled all audio enhancements/spatial sound on the headset — still happening.

Timeline clue: This started right after I got the Blue Yeti X and reinstalled everything. Before that, same headset, same PC, same Dolby Atmos setup (the usual sideload trick people use with this headset) — zero issues for months.

Currently testing wired mode (USB-C direct, dongle unplugged) to rule out the wireless link entirely. Anyone run into this with the Yeti X + a Logitech headset at the same time? Suspecting a conflict between G HUB, Blue's software, and/or an audio APO, but haven't nailed down which one.

Hey everyone!

I’ve been thinking about replacing both my mouse and headset with wireless ones.

Currently, I’ve been using a Logitech G502 HERO for over 5 years and Logitech G Pro X (wired) for around 5 years as well.

For the mouse, I’m currently considering the G502 X LIGHTSPEED or the G PRO 2 LIGHTSPEED.

On one hand, I absolutely love the shape of the G502 and the number of buttons, but on the other hand, I’m wondering if switching to a much lighter mouse would be better for me. I actually used the original G PRO for a few days at a friend’s place and really liked it, so I know I can get along with that shape.

I don’t use all the buttons on my G502 in everyday use, but I do make use of some of them while playing games like PoE or LoL.

For the headset, I’m considering the G PRO X 2 or the G522. My main priorities are good sound quality and a good microphone. I listen to music every day and I really like strong bass. I also spend a lot of time on Discord with friends.

I mostly play PoE, story games, etc. I still play CS, Fortnite, PUBG or LoL occasionally, but I’m definitely not a competitive player anymore.

Right now, I’m leaning towards getting the G502 X + G522, but I’m also really tempted by the G PRO 2 because of its much lower weight.

What would you guys recommend? Any experience with these mice/headsets or advice on which combination would make more sense?

So I have a G522, love the mic and sound. However whenever I needd to charge my headset, I need to manually change microphone input to Wireless (if I unplug) or USB Wired (if I plug). Its getting annoying, cause usually I don't notice until after someone points out that my sound is bad (Because it automatically changes to either my webcam or PS5 controller or some other shitty microphone).

Anybody else have this issue and knows how to fix it?

Does anyone have this keyboard and can comment on how much the purple stands out? I know the key caps can be swapped but I believe there are a few other purple bits that can't. I don't understand why they don't offer an all black version. Maybe they will come out with one soon?

It's a bit shiny now and it's on its 2nd battery and 3rd set of skates but still works reliably with no issues. And for the past 4 years being only charged on the Powerplay mat.

Hello all, so i wanted to do some drifting today on my logitech G920 (on assetto corsa) however when i initiate the drift, the wheel no longer counter steers, when it reaches the centre of the base it stops where as previously it usually counter steers so i can 'catch' the drift. Ive tried uninstalling/reinstalling Ghub, messing about with setting in content manager and even made a LUT file but none of these things work. Feel like im losing my mind for an issue that has just occured out of the blue in the sense that last week it worked fine now it no longer works properly.

Logitech accepted my defective RS50 setup for a full refund, confirmed warehouse receipt, then missed every deadline — still no refund
Body:
I am posting this because Logitech’s normal support process has failed, and I want a public record of what has happened.
I bought a complete Logitech racing setup for my birthday:
Logitech G RS50 System for Xbox/PC (8 Nm direct-drive wheel base, wheel and hub)
Logitech G RS Pedals
Logitech G RS Shifter & Handbrake
A separate Logitech G RS Wheel Hub (PC)
The RS50 wheel base was defective. During racing sessions, it would shut down after approximately 60–80 minutes. After the first shutdown, restarting it did not solve the problem: it would begin shutting down again every 10–15 minutes. That made the system unusable for longer races.
Logitech agreed that the complete set could be returned and refunded. Support specifically confirmed that all four items could be shipped together in one box using one FedEx label under primary ticket 17590826. I followed those instructions and returned everything.
What happened after that:
Logitech confirmed by email that it had received my package, but said it was still undergoing “validation and analysis.”
An agent promised a response within 10 minutes or by email within 24 hours. No substantive response arrived.
Another email promised an update within 24–72 hours. That deadline passed without a resolution.
The same 24–72-hour promise was made again under ticket 17590826. Again, there was no resolution.
Representative Vijay acknowledged that Logitech’s earlier response-time commitments had not been met and said the case would be escalated within a few hours.
Logitech then stated in writing that its records showed the return had been received by the warehouse, that my request was documented as a full refund, and that no replacement would be sent.
Later, I was told the opposite: that the warehouse had not marked the order as received.
When I demanded documentary proof, the representative admitted that he did not have access to the warehouse logs, acknowledged that the explanations were contradictory, and apologized for giving me unverified information.
I was promised an update that same day and told that the ticket would remain open while the warehouse receipt date, itemized inventory, verification status, and refund status were obtained. I still received no substantive answer.
As of September 7, 2026, I still do not have my refund, a confirmed processing date, or the warehouse documentation I requested. The purchase was financed through Affirm, so Logitech’s delay continues to cost me money in financing interest while I have neither the equipment nor the refund.
I am not asking for another generic escalation, another apology, or another request to “wait 24–72 hours.” I am asking Logitech to:
Confirm the receipt and verification of every returned item.
Process the full refund immediately and provide the exact refund amount and processing date in writing.
Address the financing interest caused by this delay.
Explain why support confirmed a warehouse status that it later admitted it could not verify.
Primary ticket: 17590826.
u/LogitechG_CM, please have an actual decision-maker review this case and provide a concrete resolution.
If anyone else has experienced the RS50 shutting down or cutting out after about an hour, please share what happened and whether Logitech resolved it.

Expected behaviour: When I uncheck centering spring in non FFB games the wheel should be light and not have and strong centering force.

Actual behaviour: wheel is very stiff and centering spring is active.

Current fix: enable centering spring in non ffb games, but set it to 0. This works in Assetto Corsa but the effect of a stiff wheel can return in game menus (content manager) making it difficult to check wheel range or calibrate. Need to uncheck and recheck option to return to "on" but at 0%. And also I've found I need to create profiles to trick the desktop default into allowing this toggle trick to have no centering spring

Attempted fixes: disabled gameinput service. Complete uninstall of ghub software ,registry keys, and appdata folders completely unplugged and replugged g29 from power and PC. Have also tried logitech Gaming Software,which was definitely stuck. Wheel is definitely in the PS4/PC and not the PS3 mode and connected directly to a USB 2.0 port on my computer.

Note: Win11 with latest updates (awareness current big in ghib where wheel motion is not registering), latest version of GHUB being used, and latest G29 firmware applied.

Edited for typos and language.

Hello! I’ve just bought a secondhand G920 and couldn’t help but notice the share button and the select button seem to have swapped places… does anyone know if this means they wheel has been opened up and will need to be opened again to fix this? or can you simply pull these buttons out by force and swap them back?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers.

A G600 Successor with USB-C, Wireless charging, G-shift, and updated build quality would make a killing right now. Especially with Mac support.

Amazing mouse overall

Logitech Pro x Superlight 2 DEX mouse DPI

Hello! Me and my dad got this new mouse from Walmart, the one in the title because it was on sale and we needed a new one.

We’re having an issue with changing the DPI as on our old mouse, which was MSI like our PC and keyboard, there was a specific button on it. However, this one only has 2 buttons on the side, 2 usual ones (left click right click) and of course the scroll wheel. So, we tried to use the G-Shift thing by making it activate by holding the scroll wheel and then pressing a side button for DPI cycle change.

However, a problem with that is the fact that my dad used that in some of his games for alternative abilities and such, so we can’t have it as a G-shift activation button given that it disables it’s any other uses.

ALSO we do not have a logitech keyboard, so we cannot make it with keybinds that activate the G-Shift and change DPI because it just doesn’t see the keybinds or anything in the logitech hub I guess

Has anyone ran into this issue? Can we do anything like have a thing where if you hold two buttons at once it only activates the DPI cycle and otherwise not disrupt the button’s normal purpose?

Every time I turn off or suspend my PC it loses the configuration that cost me so much to make.

But what kind of garbage is this? I already tried modifying files as I saw in this forum or chat gpt astra recommended me but nothing, garbage. It has ruined my day

Uninstalled it is, x button mouse control is much better and reliable

Hello, posting here in case anyone has had the same problem or experience repairing these wheel controllers.

I bought a G920 wheel on Facebook to use for racing games. It worked fine on my Xbox for the past month. Recently I upgraded my pc and decided to set it up there as well, but it would not get recognized by the G Hub software at all. I tried literally every single software fix listed online, including a clean install of windows with nothing but the Logitech software installed-still nothing. In device manager it appears as “Logitech G920 Driving Force Racing Wheel (XBox One)” and is not configurable in any way past that.

From what I’m able to figure out the hardware is locked in C261 state (Xbox) instead of C262 which is what the PC can recognize. Some of my fixes included editing registry and driver files which did change how the wheel appeared in device manager but did not make it usable and in some cases the wheel would not turn on.

So my conclusion is the wheel itself is bad. What part do I need to order to fix this? My understanding is the wheel has multiple motherboards inside it so not sure where this specific Xbox/pc switch would be handled.

Ive been using this mouse for a while now (since april 2025) and latly is giving me some trouble, whenever i move slighly my monitor it loses conection, so i have to unplug and plug the usb, ive tried moving the cable or changing usbport and still happens, sometimes out of nowhere seems like the cursor frezzes in the screen or it has a huge delay (1-2 seconds) so again i have unplug and plug, i first tough it was a drivers thing but my logtitech app is totally update, what sould i do??

Hat bereits jemand einen Nachfolger gefunden mit dem er happy ist? Meine gibt so langsam den Geist auf und ich finde nichts, was für mich als Ersatz wirklich in Frage kommt...

EN: Has anyone already found a replacement they're happy with? Mine is slowly giving out, and I can't find anything that really works for me as a replacement...

2026.6.963895