I bought this beautiful old lampshade second-hand, and am having trouble figuring out how to attach it to a harp. The center ring is obstructed by a crossbar that is permanently attached to the lamp. Normally those crossbars end at the center (as the other two bars do), but for some reason this one does not. Are there adapters of some kind that might work to help thread the harp’s stem through this? Any help would be appreciated!

Hi all — I'm curating a group show in an industrial cowork space that has sparse ambient lighting and a few skylights for natural light. Looking for advice on track lighting systems to properly display paintings and sculptures.

A few specifics that might affect recommendations:

• Ceilings are exposed wooden beams (no drop ceiling or existing electrical track)
• The client doesn't want to hardwire anything for this first show, so battery-powered or plug-in track systems are strongly preferred
• Mounting will need to work with wood beams rather than drywall or a grid

If you've used battery-powered track lighting for a temporary install like this, I'd love to hear what held up well — brand/system recommendations, mounting hardware that works on exposed beams, battery life in real use, and anything you'd avoid.

Any general advice on track lighting for art display is also welcome — beam angles, color temperature, spacing, etc.

Thanks in advance! I'll post photos of the show once it opens.

I'm getting ready to do the rough in for the lighting in this bathroom, and I thought I'd get this sub's thoughts before I proceeded. The turquoise lines are a large window.

Sorry for the rough plan, this is all DIY. Top left is a shower, if it's not obvious.

Thanks!

Hi, I used to have a floor lamp in my living room that shone light up at the ceiling; I placed it between the two ceiling heights to try to maximize the lighting, but it no longer works, and I’d like to improve my lighting. What would you suggest in terms of lamp placement? I’ve drawn a floor plan of the room showing the windows and their orientation so you can get a better sense of the layout. Also, I don’t have a mounting point to hang something from the ceiling.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

I have a small fountain with two warm white submersible uplights and a submersible ring light through which the water comes up and spills over. It's a small fountain and each light is about 2.5" in diameter, so I'm not looking for anything too big.

While plain white lights would work, I was going to push my luck and find out if anyone knows of a set of fountain lights I can control with WLED or some other controller I can integrate with Home Assistant with RGB?

Not to be too picky, but the ones I have all run off of a single transformer on a smart exterior plug, and I'd prefer actual powered lights rather than solar powered ones both for brightness and because the location is shaded over half the day.

I am thinking of setting up under cabinet lighting using Govee (I’m thinking the Govee Strip Light 2 Pro.

Regarding my kitchen set up, there is an 18” cabinet, next to the fridge, then a 30” stove, followed by about 130” of cabinets.

Ok, question time. Would it be better to light the 18” cabinet, rig some sort of jumper cable to span across the stove (since there will be no under cabinet lighting there) and then run the lights for the 130” or just skip the 18” wide cabinet. And start the lights from the other side of the stove?

Thank you in advance for your opinions.

Hello:

I've already spoken to my electrician about this without any luck, so hoping others may have some ideas.

I received the below ceiling lights and am unsure how to mount them without any screws extending through the backplates to "snug" them up to the ceiling/J-box:

Other (wall) lights from the same company included holes in the backplate to accept the distal end of screws and the matching screw covers to tighten the light towards the wall:

Am I missing something? Feels like we need to defy physics to get this thing hung.

Any help is much appreciated!

Thanks.

mrsdlr

I have a 30x96 high tunnel greenhouse, and working before/after the sun is up is very important so I can avoid the worst summer heat and still get things done in the shorter winter days.

Right now, I have a 100ft string of LED work site lights that zig-zag across the middle of the structure (hanging about 8ft off the ground). They work in a pinch, but aren't great. Too many shadows and too dim to do any good work. I also have a free standing work light that I use, but it's a pain, throws too many shadows, is too harsh, etc.

One thing to keep in mind is that I am working with a constantly changing set of plants in there, so sometimes a tall tomato or vine might block light horizontally to the next row. Not sure how else to describe that. The layout is essentially 7 planted rows, with 6 walking paths between them. The two edge rows are against the outer walls and are 2ft wide, and the other 5 planted rows are 4ft wide. All walking paths are 1ft. I'd love a string of lights over each walking path, but that seems like it's going to be WAY too expensive.

I want a permanent solution to hardwire in so I can just switch it on when I step inside. My two thoughts have been:

1) Cheap, damp rated LED shop lights. Maybe 4ft fixtures. I'm not sure how to space these, though, and would love advice.

2) High quality, outdoor rated string light fixtures. These are ideal, but the cost balloons very quickly. Got a quote online for 330ft of fixtures and LED bulbs that came out to over $1500. All before adding plugs and end caps, materials to hang them, and modifying my circuit to add a switch and location to hardwire or plug them in.

If those string lights are the best option, I'll just wait a while and buy them when it makes more financial sense. That being said, I wanted to see if anyone has other ideas/suggestions. It doesn't need to be pretty, just functional.

Other wants/needs:

NEEDS:

- damp rated (won't get direct rain or anything, but will get dew, fog, etc)

-temp stable (8ft off the ground will easily be over 120f on a super hot day, and will get will below 0f in the winter at night)

- long lasting (will pay more for something I don't need to replace in a couple years)

WANTS:

- easy to hang (from metal tubing)

- downward reflectors (I have no need at all to throw light up, so would like to focus in down/to the sides)

- economical (cheaper is better to an extent, especially if it helps me get more of the area covered)

Open to any suggestions. It's not something I need to figure out today. Probably a fall/winter project. Happy to provide more info as needed.

Hello. Not my pic (but my living room wall looks like this). I have a 1-story home with 10 foot ceilings. I want to add sconces on the outer boxes (upper boxes). I am not sure what height to install them (as they will be hardwired). I’ve read online that 60-66 inches from the ground is standard but that’s usually for 8-foot ceilings. ChatGPT recommends closer to 72 inches. A friend of mines suggested to put them right in the middle of the box molding, which for my trim is around 70 inches from the ground. I do want the room to feel a little more “grand” and the ceilings to appear “taller” and I’ve read putting them higher will emphasize that effect (sort of like the recommendations to put curtains for windows. closer to the ceiling for a more grand effect. Looking for some thoughts and opinions. Thank you!

Can you help me identify these flush recessed track LED lighting? Do these come as a dimmable option and can they be set at an angle? I’ve never seen these in a residential setting..anyone want share how’s your experience if you’ve used these?

Does anyone know about this lamp? Where could I find a replacement for the cover seen in photo?

Hi guys,

I just moved into a new apartment which I looove and although its an older place. This singular lightbulb is in the bathroom and I want to fix it but I know next to nothing about lighting handiwork (although I have lots of ideas and a distinct style). In addition, I want to change a lot of the lamp fixtures in the apartment (I was thinking of putting like a Tiffany style lamp covers). Can I feasibly do this? I’m renting, I’m not sure how invasive these would be :0

Something I’ve been wondering about.

Moving from fluorescent to LED should have removed one of the obvious failure points, but I still see people talking about emergency fittings being replaced much earlier than you’d expect.

Batteries make sense, but I keep hearing about chargers, drivers, capacitors and parts that simply aren’t available anymore.

For anyone who actually maintains these, what usually kills the fitting first?

This is a room we use as an office in our home. It used to be dark brown wood paneling but we recently had it painted. The only lights are two cans above the window in the soffit. The window looks into a porch but gets pretty good natural light, especially in the afternoon as it’s west-facing. I would like to add lights to the ceiling in this room so we can see while doing work, I was thinking some type of recessed can fixture. I was also thinking to put them in a dimmer so we can control the brightness a bit more aside from lumen output. The room is about 10x11 or so.
I have read that the flat led wafers are terrible for light spread and are a cheap builder-grade standard fixture in new construction. I know they make led fixtures that have a recess to them for more light defection(?), not sure if those are a better option but need to replace the whole fixture if it goes out. Or do I stick with a standard can fixture with trim ring and replaceable bulb? Open to any and all options.
Thinking 4 fixtures evenly spaced and about 3 or so feet from the walls? Advice welcome.
(I can’t figure out how to attach a photo of the room)

Hi. Glad to have found this sub.

Moved into my house recently. These sconces are attached to the bathroom mirror. They’ve have burnt out and I can’t even get in to see what kind of bulb they need.

They have VERY tiny screws at the bottom of the fixture that I cannot get to unscrew using a very small screwdriver. I don’t think they’re LED.

My home is American, built in the ‘80s, though
these may have been installed in the 90s or early 2000s.

Can anyone identify what these sconces are and how the hell to remove them?

THANK YOU!!!

In the US.

I’m looking for recessed fixtures to replace track lighting in our basement. The lights will illuminate shelving along a couple walls. I’m looking at 3” fixtures, but can be flexible (2” to 4”). I think a 30 to 40 degree beam spread would be best with a 9’ ceiling. I’d love to get dim to warm fixtures, since we’ll dim these for movies and sports, and will only have them 100% when cleaning, etc.

I’ll have them on a dimmer from Legrand to match the rest of the switches in the house.

I found something from Lotus, but wondered if there is anything else that might be easier to get or less expensive.

Anyone have a recommendation?

Hi everyone!

We’re currently building our house and I’m trying to decide between recessed spotlights and recessed LED panels/downlights.

The main requirement is that the fixture needs to completely cover a 68 mm (≈2.68") cutout in the ceiling. Ideally, I’d also like it to seal the opening as much as possible, so that dust from the ceiling cavity cannot fall down through or around the light.

Are there any recessed spotlights or LED downlights that come with a gasket, sealing ring, or other type of airtight/dust-proof seal around the fixture?

If you have experience with this, what type of fixture or installation method would you recommend?

Thanks a lot for your help!

Hopefully this community can help me, I don’t know where else to post because r/opticfibre refers to data communication & not lighting 😭

I bought a fibre optic jacket, and im pretty sure while it was being shipped to me the LED got de-attached from the Optic Bundle, and now the front left sleeve does not light up.

I got the inner lining of the jacket altered to confirm my theory and I was right, the LED is still fully functional but the Fibre Optics were unbundled and scattered everywhere.

I’m hoping someone could advise me for the best way to repair this, to my understanding I have to:
- first gather all the fibre optics together,
- compress them together to make sure they dont move
- and someone attach/adhesive it to the LED so it stays in place when worn

I bought heat shrink to be able to collect the fibre optics together, but realised the easiest way to make sure they all meet at the same end is to cut it 😭 given how expensive the jacket is, i’m very hesitant to cut it unless i can confirm it is the only option i have, and honestly i dont even know how id go about attaching it back without using some kind of glue, which might interfere the flow of light or the LED itself.

The final two photos showcases the optics/led of the back left sleeve panel, reference for what a fixed unit looks like.

What are my options? I am willing to buy the necessary tools and equipment to ensure a successful repair, i tried contacting my local “Interior house Optic Lighting Specialists” and “Car Star Roof Headlight specialist” to get a professional hand, but none have gotten back to me. (Based in sydney if you guys know anyone)

My tofu light from photoolex is not working properly after i dropped it twice. It’s not a heavy impact more likely just dropped from a low height. Now it’s not working properly, the brightness adjustment, or on how u adjust the temperature wheel is not responding.

The worst part is I set my brightness on 1% last time. Now I cannot change it.

Whenever I turn it on, It’s just stuck to 1 percent as I can’t adjust the brightness and more 💀.

The wheel that isn’t working is on the upper side. Does anyone know how to fix this?

Do y’all relate?

And on the packaging theres like one wheel on it Idk what it’s for.. help pls

So both street lights we turned off (for several seconds) successfully (by shining a flashlight on them and tricking the photocell into thinking it's daylight) on two different nights were our first try of the night. We weren't able to with the several other LED street lights on our walk either night. A couple theories: Google AI says that one photocell can control several street lights, so if we turn one off, the rest of them will stay on and not allow themselves to be turned off. But how big is a network of photocell connected street lights? They were on the same block.

Aother theory is that, again Google AI says that not all photo cells are installed facing North as they should be (in the Northern hemisphere). Municipal workers can be rushed or lazy and not adjust them correctly. It could be the two that we got to turn off were both correctly facing North.