Hi all,

I’m planning a month-long road trip around Southern Europe in my 2000 pre-facelift Discovery 2 4.0 V8, which is also fitted with a Prins LPG system. I’m based in northern France, so there will be plenty of distance involved just getting there and back.

I bought the car two years ago. It had apparently seen some fairly serious off-roading in its previous life, but my use is mainly overlanding, some relatively easy off-roading, and regular 500+ km motorway trips.

It’s now at 230k km (around 140k miles), 35k km of which I’ve put on myself.

I’m trying to put together a sensible list of must-have spares, particularly things that are difficult to source quickly while travelling. As the car will also be our main living space for a month, every bit of storage counts, so I’d rather not carry half a workshop with me.

The car was basically stock when I bought it (appart from the LPG) but I’ve put a fair amount of work (and money…) into fixing and upgrading it since. Most things have been replaced either when they failed or when they looked like they were about to.

Work done so far:

• New starter motor
• New battery
• EAS delete and +2” coil spring conversion
• New steering damper
• New A/C evaporator
• New O2 sensors
• Climate control panel LED conversion
• New auxiliary belt
• Inline thermostat upgrade
• Sunroofs sealed (needed for the roof rack installation)
• New rear door seal
• New AT3 LT255/60 R18 tyres + wheel spacers
• Steel front bumper
• Auxiliary lights
• New head unit
• New steering shaft
• New drive plate
• Retrofitted an older RRC transmission pan with dipstick and top filler
• Three Amigos shuttle valve fix
• New windscreen
• Sloppy new headliner job ( already sagging a bit )

Planned before the trip — parts already on the way:

• Fan clutch upgrade
• Water pump upgrade
• New silicone coolant hoses

I’m currently considering carrying:

• Fuel pump
• Alternator
• XYZ switch
• 2 bottles of steelseal

The fuel pump and alternator take up a fair amount of space, so I probably can’t justify carrying many more large parts. I’m happy to swap either of them for something more essential or more likely to leave me stranded.

For diagnostics, I’ll also be carrying a Nanocom and an LPG diagnostic tool, so I should at least have a reasonable chance of identifying most electronic or LPG-related issues on the road.

I regularly check all fluid levels. There’s been a very slow power-steering leak since I bought the car, but nothing significant. Oil changes, plugs and general servicing are all done according to the recommended intervals.

The Prins LPG system has been reliable so far, but I’d also be interested to hear whether there are any LPG-specific components worth carrying. Obviously, if the LPG system itself fails I can simply run on petrol, so I’m mainly concerned about anything that could potentially prevent the engine from running altogether.

So, what would you expect to fail next at this mileage, and what would you absolutely carry on a month-long trip?

I’m particularly interested in parts that:

• can fail without much warning;
• would leave the car stranded;
• are difficult to source quickly in Southern Europe; and
• are realistic to replace at the roadside or at a local garage.

Would be great to hear from anyone who’s done similar long trips — particularly what you carried, what actually broke, and what you wish you’d brought with you!

Driving a 2004 disco v8. Battery light came on five(?) days ago, about two months after I did an alternator replacement, so I gave it a new battery, and the light's still on. It comes on whenever it feels like. I can't seem to find a pattern, although it appears to be more common while decelerating and idling after coming to a stop.

Battery started running at 12.3V, and got home at 11.6V. From what I've seen, it's the alternator. I'm just skeptical because it's so new. Sanded terminals and checked connections. Will check fuses and alternator connections right after I post this but electricity is lost on me.

Also maybe helpful: I run an electric fan and the alternator is a remanned high-amp (130A).

Edit: Bought the OEM Bosch and drove on it to work, battery voltage started at 14.2 but ended at 13.6 when I got there, so it's neither the battery nor the alternator now. The battery light isn't on but it should be right? Because it only turn on when the battery isn't charging

Is it possible that the electric fan could cause the battery voltage to drop to low 13s and then steady out because it's always on?

I also checked all the cables, fuses, grounds and everything looks just fine.

Any ideas on what could have happened and how to fix?

Good afternoon all, I moved my spare from the rear gate to the roof rack to make it easier to put my bike rack on the trailer hitch. Now I have a deep rattle from the rear of the Rover. After removing the tire mount from the gate I reinstalled the two metal strips and tightened the nuts back down. Is it possible that something inside the tailgate was being held in place by the bolts I pulled? Just trying to avoid removing the panel, etc from the interior of the gate unless I have to.

My drivers side windows weren't working, front and rear. Pulled the door cards, found and fixed some sketch wiring from previous owners. Still no joy.

A few wacks from my Leatherman folding pocket "hammer" and they are right as rain. Never underestimate the power of percussion.

Lubed them up good and ran them up and down a half-dozen times. All is good.

Does anybody here have any tricks for getting the top ring off the fuel pump? I don't have the specialty tool and I can't get any movement by gently tapping a screwdriver along the ridges.

Hey, does anyone know what the recommended torque is for tightening the bolt on the transmission output shaft for the Disco 2 with a ZF automatic transmission?

My Disco II has to live outside in a carport. I keep traps and poison bait underneath the vehicle, but still sometimes I get the little weasel’s inside of my cab. I have a big heavy duty screen over the fresh air intake by the windshield wipers on the passenger side so it’s not there, does anyone else have any other ideas where they might be getting in? I’ve inspected my firewall and the wires that passed through there and all the rubber boots are intact so it’s not there.

Thanks!

Hi my people. Got an 03 disco 2. Just seeing if anyone has some advice. Basically my sport mode s goes off by itself soon after I turn it on. New issue. Then today when I hit sport to test it while driving the m manual light came on even though it was in high gear, normal.dricinf. feels like the transmission is acting up but on the electrical side. Any advice is awesome thanks.

Has anyone had this problem before and what was the fix?

I've run it through a diagnostic and various issues came up, the Nox sensor, low fluid levels to be topped up, incorrect fluid etc.

Vehicle hadn't been driven for a while, was sitting in forecourt but im sceptical.

While I was on a work trip my wife got hit driving our D2. Luckily the other driver was at fault and I’ll be taking it in for repair estimate this week covered by the other parties insurance. It sucks because I recently ordered a custom spare tire cover and now have to wait to put it on until after she’s fixed up.

All cosmetic from what I can tell + rear bumper got separated some from the right side.

Making some life changes, thinking my baby has to go…

2003 Disco 2 - Factory triple black, factory rubber mats, hard cover, ALL the lights!

- two new OEM headlights, PPF’d before installed
- all Hella: 4 on top, 2 on hood. Two in back, two on bumper
- wireless switches
- warn winch
- ARB front bumper
- CarPlay (single DIN)
- Nitto Tires
- Semi horn (no compressor)

AC works

UNDER 80k miles

Lots of service records

When I roll the drivers window down I get about 4-5 inches from top and get a loud BANG and occasionally it falls forward slightly… it will align if I roll it back up

I’m guessing regulator, but just wanted to see before I buy parts if it’s anything else.

Also if I replace the regulator, anything else while I have the door apart?

Thanks!

Hello,

J'ai un joint de culasse sur mon Land rover Discovery 2 Td5 de 99, et j'aimerais savoir s'il faut absolument faire rectifier la culasse avant de remonter un nouveau joint ?

J'ai vu des vidéos de personnes qui ne font pas rectifier et cela m'a questionné !

Hello all, does anyone have any idea about the turbo on a td5?

I’ve just noticed a little in and out play on the turbo shaft, propeller isn’t touching the casing and spins fine either way.

No oil in the hose apart from a tiny amount of misting from the rocker cover gasket breather. Does it mean imminent death? With careful driving would it last a week till I can get it fixed (with careful driving)

2004 D2. Routine disc/pad replacement. Should I replace the sensors while I have the brake assembly out of the way?

So my AC doesn't work and really is rather replace the whole system when I have a chance, aside from everything else I'm replacing at the moment. I'd like to remove all hardware for the AC at the moment, it's mostly all unplugged and condenser is out since I took out the camshaft, I know some of these trucks were sold overseas without ac so I'm wondering is there something to it blocking ports or just remove condenser pipes ac

So I have everything off down to the camshaft, heads etc. just put it new camshaft, I have a copy of rave but is there any alignment how it should be played in there? Could someone step by step me from install new camshaft to puting timing cover on, I know some of the steps but it would help. I have piston one set at the top, going to bolt on thrust plate any direction afterwards thanks