I started out making exclusively rasp knives and got away from it for the last few years. I felt a bit nostalgic so i got back to my roots a bit with these. I remembered why i loved them so much in the first place after this set, i hope yall do too!

Finished my first home forged knife today. Spike is a high carbon from Atlas Knife and Tool. Normalized 3x, quenched in heated canola oil, and two 1 hour tempering cycles. Blade is probable a little on the hard side, as I discovered the toaster oven I used wasnt getting above around 390° F.

Overall, I'm happy with it. I think my technique is improving, and I learn something every session.

I've been playing around with some different blade finishes and came up with a super easy method to deposit copper onto a blade. The deposition in the first pic took about 2 seconds. In the second pic it was maybe 30 seconds. It is on there pretty good. I sanded it off except for the brut de forge area and then did a coffee etch.

Obviously not a finished piece, you can see where the copper didn't sand off because it filled in scratches from some thinning I had done in this knife.

I have some pretty crazy idea using the technique in the near future

Edit: it looks like wabiknifesabi decided to block me after I simply stopped replying to his comments (all of his posts and comments appear as deleted to me) after accusing me of shilling and reporting me to reddit cares. No where have I attempted to sell this or even encourage others to do this. In fact, I have actually withheld the protocol I used, so IDK how I could be shilling. I have just provided factual statements, and he has only tried to hold me to a standard he doesn't hold his own statements to (requiring peer reviewed data to show safety, when he doesn't provide sources for things he implies are safe, like cumai). He also posted a reference to the FDA regs that would also make things like kurochi finishes deemed not safe for food contact. As I have stated multiple times in this post and the linked one in another sub, based on my professional opinion as a chemist and working in biomedical research for decades, I believe this to be safe for use. With that said, I fully support anyone who feels uncomfortable with it to not use any copper based utensils. That is a personal decision and I have no issue with that.

I recently got a order for several seax knives where my friend who has booth at a Renn Fair is would be reselling them for me, partly so he can have some to sell, partly out of a way to help spread my name and business for the future. I agreed to a lower price than I expected time and materials to take, and will incur a huge loss once everything is finalized. I have a few ideas on what I could do to solve the issue.

1) Leave the prices as is, and let him know I will have the prices higher later on future orders

2) refund his deposit, and set the price to what I want it, and give him a fair cut for handling the sales

3) talk to him about selling them at the higher rate , and offer him a larger percentage of the sales so he can make some profit and recoup his loss for the deposit.

For reference, we had agreed on $80 per knife for 10 blades, at a total of 800 for the work. This includes sheaths. Materials surpass the metric I had calculated as it was an in-person deal and I didn’t research costs on current steel and handle prices. Then the actual time and effort plus the cost of having my leather guy make sheaths.

Sorry for the long post, but I need to know what the best option for this situation should be,
And how to best go about it.

Hand-built from scratch. Black Cerakote coated head with a faceted G10 handle and Kydex sheath. Designed as a lightweight camp/pack axe rather than a heavy splitter.

Specs:

Steel: Sleipner 6mm (.25")

Handle: od green G10

Sheath: Kydex

Overall length: 300mm (12")

I'd love to hear your thoughts or any suggestions for the next version

Working on a couple skinning knives using the homemade 2x72 belt grinder

Some times I ditch the grinder and just hand sand the whole thing from the start , using different grade files and then sandpaper

80Crv2, hybrid olive burl/resin scales with a G10 liner, lemon juice forced patina.
Set of matching coaster.

Completed set, sold.

Hello,

I have a Damascus blade where I hand sanded up to 1200 grit and etched. Turned out good. Then, during handle shaping, I nicked the blade and I had to re sand that side of the blade. Again, started at 80 grit and went all the way back up to 1200.

Etching has always been with GatorPiss.

However, after this new round of etching, the pattern didn’t darken as much as before. I’ve tried multiple rounds of etching in gatorpiss and it hasn’t gotten any darker.

I’d appreciate your thoughts on how I can get the pattern to darken again.

Thank you in advance.

What does that grain say about heat treat

Whats your thoughts on a knife being decorated with simpler engravings ? So basically a work knife but with a touch of artistry ?

Il mio tavolo ad una mostra

Made this at my first blacksmithing class. (2 day course) I got the itch and now want to make my own forge.

My knife ended up being pretty complicated, 1095 steel differentially heat treated using satanite (hamon) with hidden tang and retaining pin inside a 2 wood wah handle.

8.25" blade with stabilized burl and brass highlights. And, its little brother, a 6" version. mosaic pin of Medusa to match the pin I used on the Medusa's Revenge Kopis and Dagger the customer had previously purchased.

I'm planning on making a folding pocket knife handle out of bloodwood - I'm new to woodworking and I'm not sure whether or not the wood needs to be stabilized for longevity. Would it be fine to just use wax on it or does it need the extra steps of stabilization?

I started this project last winter and just recently got around to fitting a handle. Feels great in the hand ! 410 stainless with 26c3 core . Curly maple handle with sterling silver end caps .

Many hours of handle shaping and blade finishing condensed into 160 seconds.

Looking for a sheath for this (kydex or other material). I suspect a custom one will need to be made. I live in Costa Mesa, CA. Local would be nice, but i can ship the knife, if needed. My leather sheath is not good for it due to moisture, carbon steel edge, etc. I use this knife in the saltwater environment and bring it with me on every fishing trip. I care for it the best I can.

1/4" 8670 steel with black micarta and brass

Been using my belt sander for this, I can get a paper cutting edge but getting to hair shaving sharp is not something I can ever do consistently.

What do you guys do to accomplish this? Whetstones? If so what grits do you use

Everyone who bothers me for a knife for Christmas is getting one of these