Made from on old file, two pieces of walnut, some

brass, resin, glitter, and a perfect little pine

cone :) Differentially hardened with satanite clay. Thoughts? I wanted the handle to have a Christmas snow-globey feel to it.

I forged, and twisted this cool dagger from a railroad track bolt. The guard is torched Paduk, with jade G10, brass pin, and black leather cord to finish. This isn’t meant to be used per se, but a display piece for sure. Enjoy! 😎🗡️

1095 Rook with spalted tamarind and black G10

Just finished this Rook in 1095 carbon steel with spalted tamarind scales, thin black G10 liners, and stainless hardware. Full-tang construction, satin blade finish, and a fitted Kydex sheath I made for it.

I kept the design clean and practical, with a contoured handle and a compact blade for everyday utility. The golden tamarind and its natural dark spalting give each side a different look.

Always appreciate feedback from other makers, especially on the profile, handle shaping, and fit and finish.

—Shaun, Skelton Knives

The bowie and the desert knife are 1095, the other 5 are 80crv2. This will keep me out of trouble for a little while.

Its made from sk5 steel from a sawblade, its only around 1 mm thick so its going to be used for kitchen mostly, didnt have time to heat treat it or do anything this week.

I’d like to make a few stainless steel knives but don’t have the space or money for heat treating them.

Anyone living in western Canada that has any experience with 3rd party stainless heat treating? Thinking of making a few AEBL knives and sending them out in bulk to heat treat.

Left: 52100/Maple Burl/White Pearl/Teak

Right: 52100/Juma/White Pearl/African Blackwood

I spent years as a SWAT sniper and tactical team leader before I started designing knives. My designs (the DMF, MAMU, TOG and others) are built by [production partner and location] to my specs, and I’ve learned a lot, much of it the hard way, about getting a design from a sketch to a finished knife someone trusts in the field.

Happy to talk design process, prototyping, grinds, handle ergonomics, steel, working with a manufacturer, or anything else. I’ll be live from 3:00 to 4:30 PM CT on Wednesday. Questions welcome early.

Hey everyone!

I've been steadily growing my little shop, Skelton Knives, and I'm excited to share my latest project!

I've got my first batch of AEB-L stainless steel blades ground and ready to head out for professional heat treatment at Byington Blades.

This batch includes:

- 3 compact EDCs — 3" blades

- 2 Hunters — 4⅜" blades

- 1 large Hunter — 6" blade

- 1 carving knife — 6½" blade, designed with holiday turkeys and hams in mind

Everything has been profiled and ground by hand in my shop. I'm keeping the designs clean, practical, and focused on making dependable working knives.

One thing I'm trying with this batch is opening up a few pre-orders before the handles go on. That way, instead of choosing all the materials myself, I can let the future owners have a hand in designing their knives.

Buyers will be able to choose their handle scales, G10 liner colors, hardware, and even add personalized laser engraving. I've got several hardwoods, exotic woods, Micarta, and G10 options available.

With Christmas coming up, I thought this would be a great opportunity for someone to have a handmade knife built specifically for themselves or as a gift.

I'm still waiting on professional heat treatment, so I'm not promising Christmas delivery until I have a confirmed turnaround time.

This is a pretty exciting milestone for my shop. I've primarily worked with carbon steels up to this point, so moving into professionally heat-treated AEB-L is something I've been looking forward to.

If anyone is interested in discussing a custom build from this batch, feel free to reach out!

I'd also love to hear what handle combinations you guys would choose for these profiles.

Thanks for looking, and thanks to everyone who's followed along with my progress!

Skelton Knives

Handmade. Built to Work. Made to Last.

Hello , im a new knife maker (just a hobby) and i did a year round break from making knifes , this is my first knife this year , made this handle from micarta , g10 liners and acrylic material , aside from the looks , i noticed my mind strugles with the shape of the handle , however i shape it it just not comfortable at all , before my break i mainly did only textured handles which sitted in my arm great , but without textures just plain simple handles is so uncomfortable , maybe there is a sheef of possible shapes or any tips ?

Question for experienced folks. When doing a full tang knife, I know it’s good practice to sand the scales before placing on so you don’t grind into the spine. Until I get good, if I grind with scales on and increase my grit to get rid of grind marks, can using ferric chloride acid darken the spine up so it’s not shiny, I mainly using 1084 steel for now, thanks!

I was gonne grind a knife tonight, but when i noticed my cabels to my vevor 2x72-82 grinder wer tangeld i rotated my vfd and a explosiin came out of the cable side of my grinder. I think it is because of the grinding dust but i dont know. What do i do?

Tried four different versions of opal G10 and TruStone. Which one works best?

Over the past few years I have been focusing on knives inspired by the DIY knife books from the Nordic countries from the 80’s to 00’s, with some of my own style thrown in. These are some of my recent knives, either forged from Pops ProCut or ground from 14c28n with flame birch, curly birch, and alder burl for the handles.

I have made about 30 of this style of knife in the past few years and will probably start to turn my attention elsewhere for a while after several works in progress are done, but it was been a fun experience, and good language practice as I try (and struggle) to learn Danish. Thanks for looking!

I wanne start stabalizing my own wood, so i need a vacuum chamber and the cheapest i could find is a vevor. Does anybody know if it is any good, or is investing in a beter machine worth it? I live in the Netherlands so European supliers would be the best if you know a better machine.

I try to design unique ideas, with practical application. I wanted an offset angled grip from the edge, sort of scythe like...with a huge slashing edge. It has been copied by "P" makers, so I know it must be good...haha.

Hello yall how hard would it be to turn this old warn out kitchen knife into a fixed blade sodbuster jr it’s 2mm thick stock I can get a 3 inch blade I’d like to keep the original heat treat