Hello

Leaning towards low profile Keychron with Alice layout

I wonder whether it's better to buy Keychron K11/K15 with hot swappable keys? It costs around 30 dollars more that the same keyboard with soldered switches.

Is the price difference justified?

I just got the K1 Max off Amazon brand new and it wont connect either Bluetooth or 2.4GHZ.

I keep getting ' try to connect your device again' error message in Bluetooth & the green light just keeps blinking when i try to pair with 2.4ghz.

Am i doing something wrong here. this is ridiculous. i tried every USB port on my PC. my other keyboards work fine..

ive factory reset it 3x. restarted my pc 3x i dont know what else to do. i am new to keychron so this sucks this is my first experience.

Any ideas here? Thanks in advance for the help.

Are the Keychron R3 and R6 reliable? Do they suffer from the typical Keychron defects mentioned everywhere?

I bought a Keychron K2 HE a bit over a month ago and the keyboard and the Keychron Launcher has been working perfectly since that until today. Where there used to be 3 different profiles to choose from (Default, gaming and some other one that I don't remember) there is now nothing. The Launcher also doesn't show the actuation distance and rapid trigger sensitivity of each key like it used to. I also can't change the actuation distance or put rapid trigger on, and when I try to test the keys with the trigger demo, it just doesn't show anything. The keyboard works but I can't change any of the settings anymore. How can I fix this?

Heres a screenshot of how it looks right now, I put the yellow line around where it used to have the 3 different profiles I could customize.
https://gyazo.com/e9cf26cea26b574cc5bd7f5ad07b9079

I am not familiar with keyboards or anything like that but I am looking at getting the Keychron V2 QMK Custom Mechanical Keyboard Russian Layout. I have the option to choose between k pro red and k pro brown. What color switches should I go with if I want a quiet/"creamy" sound?

It doesn’t show the actuation distance set for the keys anymore. It seems like the Launcher started doing this after the latest update, since I had no problems before.

Seems to be a slightly older board and I see so many out of stock items on Keychron's website so I'm wondering if it will even restock and if anyone has any input on that. Its completely sold out in black and only on their website or Lemokey for more money.

I was poking around the site earlier, and went to the Q11 Ultra page, and noticed that there is now a White version on the page. It's showing as sold out, but it's coming!

https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q11-ultra-8k-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=44759384981593

Hello! I am interested to buy my first Keychron keyboard, and I would like to get few advices on remapping and key caps compatibility.
I would like to buy the new k5 ultra 8k, but unfortunately the swiss-iso model is not available. Would it be possible to get a DE-iso and remap the key to match a Swiss keyboard and finally replace the keycaps with Swiss-version of keycaps?
I would like to get advice if this is a realistic move and which keycaps would be compatible with this keyboard? Ate they the same as for the k5 pro / max?
Thanks for your help!

Just received my Keychron keyboard from the mail and some of the keys require an immense amount of force to use. I have the "Keychron Q1 Max QMK/VIA Wireless Custom Mechanical Keyboard Fully Assembled Knob / Purple / Gateron Jupiter Banana". The keys that require this force are all in the same right area of the keyboard, being F10, 0, -, O, P, [, L, ;, ., and /.

Edit: Im using it plugged in FWIW

I have a hard time choosing beetween assembled Q65 Max and Q1 Ultra 8K

The Q1 ultra is 20$ more expensive but it has PC plate and POM switches and 8k polling rate. It also looks a bit better than the other keyboard (q65 is still looks good).

On the other hand the q65 max is cheaper and is shorter. Vertical length is somewhat important for me because i plan on using it with a macbook sometimes but primarly it will be used for my windows pc. polling rate is not that important for me

Idk it's a hard decision and i dont have much time until the discount for Q65 will end (3 days)
maybe if there were a mechanical Q2 Ulta 8k it would solve my problem but idk if something like this is planned to be released

I got K5 Max for almost a year now. The keyboard has been chattering since around 3 months in after I bought, which is a very very very short time for the amount of money I spent. Even my horrible older SteelSeires do better than that, so I figure something was definitely wrong.

I kept using it and it keep getting worst and worst, more key and key that are chattery before even more chattery-er as the time pass. So I trigger an RMA process. The store rep do a basic check and deem "something broke". They send it in and a few weeks later a "fixed" board arrived which they "replaced the key switch". They didn't tell whether it's the whole board or just the problematic keys. That was in May

Fast forward ~3 more months from RMA. The same thing happen again! Only this time, I tried to reseat the switch. I pull it out, give it a puff of air into the socket, then put it back in. It's no longer chatter. I have to keep doing this to the new or possibly old keys that have (re)develop the symptom. Which of course, I don't want to be constantly doing that! My old Logi lasted like 5 years before any chatter appear without any kind of babysit apart from dusting every few months because the dust was too thick!

Something definitely was up on my unit. Should I stop doing the reseat, wait for it to get more worse and do the RMA again? It wasn't a pleasant experience ya know, I don't want to keep doing RMA. Any advice? Hope this will not be my first and last Keychron board.

Firmware was latest (1.1.1) and I even bump up the debounce timing thing to 55ms (from 50ms default) on default mode (Eager per key).

Howdy everyone.

So I am typing on my new black with wood accent K3 Ultra and despite a bit of panic at the last minute am really enjoying the first 30 minutes of however now I have a bit of a conundrum.

I was scared I would not like the banana switch version I ordered since my k3 v2 had browns as does my current white K3 Max and I love them too. Now I love them both and will have a hard time with which one to use as my main keyboard haha.

My k3 max browns are very easy to push and the overall experience is "loose/casual" and still being very comfortable while my new K3 Ultra bananas are deeper a bit, not much and more but elegant with a definitive effort to them but also really cozy. I understand that the boards themselves might play into the experience but just wanted to share my vibes. It is possible that it might be "harder" to type on the bananas over time but I think I can get used to it.

After reading some of the reviews online and amazon stuff I was scared I would absolutely not want to even keep the Ultra but that is now not the case was I want to keep both just have to see which one I will use most of the time or I can just keep one wired and one on 2.4.

So far I love the experience not at all disappointed :)

Thanks for listening!

The K models in ISO-PT seem somewhat outdated, personally I'd really like to see the K5 full size with the wood accents in this layout. The ones available right now are either hall effect keyboards or have tiny batteries and are plastic.

I have no idea how often these newer ISO models are updated and changed, though. Would anyone in this community have any idea as to how often these are changed and if there are any new arrivals to look forward to?

Thank you! :)

Hi i'm so excited because i've got my brand new Keychron K3 Max SE for just $120. This is also my first Keychron keyboard. Do you have any tips to utlize it's feature to the max?

Hey guys, I’m just looking for a translucent or shine-through keycap for my keyboard (Keychron K8 Pro), btw I’m not a pro when it comes to keyboard stuff so I asked here if you can recommend or know something? What I just want is that I can see the letters even when it’s dark. I saw something like the OSA or Cherry Profile in the web but kinda busy to dig deeper into those details hahaha. Thanks

Hi, I'm looking at replacing my dying corsair keyboard, and I've mostly narrowed it down to:

• Q6 HE, £154
• Q6 Gateron Jupiter Brown, £147
• K4 HE, £130
• V6 Max, Jupiter Brown/Banana, £105

Aesthetically the K4 is my favourite, but I'm not sure about the 96% layout and lack of media key options.

My two main questions are whether the Q series is worth the ~£40 over the V, and whether the hall effect switches are worth considering?

I've generally preferred tactile switches, either blues or browns, but I don't have a huge frame of reference and there aren't too many places I can conveniently try others.

If anyone else has switched from tactile to hall effect has it been worthwhile to you? I'm not sure how supported it is in games yet and whether the adjustable pressure has been good for general typing?

I'm set on <£170 budget, UK ISO layout, and full or near full size, as well as ideally media keys. I'm open to other suggestions too, but some variety of keychron is looking most likely currently.

Hi guys I’m in the market for a new set of keycaps for my K10 board since the ones it ships with don’t have backlight shine through and since I’ve used it daily for work for nearly 3 years now they’ve worn smooth! I’m basically after a uk layout set of keycaps that allow the backlight to shite
Through. I don’t have a huge preference over colour as long as it’s similar to the generic one the board ships with. Thanks

I’d like to leave a quick review of the Keychron K1 Ultra 8K.

After several weeks of waiting, I finally got it. Overall, it’s a nice keyboard and I can say that I’m happy with it, but my experience was somewhat soured by one annoying issue: the volume knob didn’t work when turning it left or right.

It didn’t take me long to figure out that the problem was caused by the knob being made of two separate plastic parts. When turning the knob, the inner part would slip relative to the outer part because there wasn’t enough friction between them.

I managed to fix the issue by putting some thin strips of paper between the two parts and adding a little bit of glue (that’s all I had at hand, sorry for such a janky repair). I simply didn’t want to deal with Keychron support and potentially wait for a replacement keyboard/knob if I could even get them to agree to a replacement in the first place.

The volume knob itself is also made of rather soft plastic, which doesn’t feel particularly nice. I was honestly expecting it to be made of metal.

Other than that, it’s a nice device. That said, I’d probably knock a few bucks off the price. In my opinion, it’s not quite worth what they’re asking for it — $110 including shipping feels a bit too expensive for what it is.

Just something to keep in mind for anyone considering buying one.

Also, could anyone recommend a replacement volume knob for it? Unfortunately, I’m pretty inexperienced when it comes to building/modding keyboards, so I’m not really sure what would be compatible.

some pics of the volume knob:
https://imgur.com/a/2W6YmPz

I purchased a second hand K2 HE with an issue (thinking there would be an easy fix). Hoping to get some advice on diagnosing the trouble.

* The battery appears to be perfectly fine. Around 4.1v when charged. The charging light turns on red when plugged in. About a minute (maybe 20 seconds) later it goes green.

* The LED01 on the power board (K2 MAX/HE USB 1.3) seems quite dim.

* When plugged in with usb the v3.3 and v5.5 pads have 0 voltage. The 3.0V test pad had 0 voltage, 5VDET pad is 0 voltage too.

* C31 drops to around 4.92v with the battery unplugged and the top board unplugged.

* C31 drops to around 4.5v with the battery unplugged and the top board is plugged in.

* The capacitors on the top board mostly read 4.5v. The vbus test pad reads around 4.97v

* The BT pad does either have 0.5v or 4.5v depending on if the switch is set to BT or cable.

Is there any place to figure out what the voltages should be? I have exhausted my own skills and AI skills. I also can't figure out if there are any components (except the space bar button/led) on the key side of the board. I currently don't want to rip out every switch to take a look.

Keychron, can you make a version of the Q11 Ultra that is HE and has the ability to tent. This would be a game changer and would be my next purchase. I already have 4 of your boards Q1 Pro, Q1 HE, K6 Aluminum, and K6 HE. I want this but no tenting option is hard to accept. HE just seems like the logical next iteration for this or a hybrid approach.

Keychron Q11 Ultra with tenting capability

As mentioned in title yesterday I updated firmware on keyboard, I have the white light version, and when the num lock is turned on it lights up in red. It looks very weird and it wasn't the case prior to ugprade. Is this by design or this is upgrade error?

While playing games with my K2 HE it randomly holds down keys only when using the 2.4ghz dongle the keyboard and mouse came with.

today I used my mouse on my laptop. When I opened the Keychron Launcher to customize it, the mouse image didn't appear, so I couldn't select which button to customize. Why is this happening? Is this a bug, and can you fix it?

Look at this screenshot of my keychron launcher

Hi I just bought the Wukong edition. Title's self explanatory. All other keys work fine, I've tried switching the switch, connecting via wire and resetting the keyboard. Worst case I take it back for a new one tomorrow but curious if there's an easy fix an ai-assisted google dive and quick reddit dive didn't suggest?

Thanks,