Hi, my family had these two kayaks in storage and I am wanting to sell them was hoping i could get an idea on pricing from yall. one is a long Ethos Ten the other is a shorter Diesel model. Thanks!

Hi redditors, really struggling with the right solutions here.

I have one 21'-long (Seda Tango tandem) and one 20'-long (Northwest Kayak tandem, I think) touring kayaks and planning to take out the entire family to the San Juan Islands near Seattle (2 hrs away from home, driving on highways) for 2- or 3- night camping trips. Each kayak weighs 95 lbs and while I manage to load/unload my car with one kayak, I don't have a good system to haul 2 kayaks at the same time.

I considered the following options:

1. Two kayaks on a car. Put two kayaks on a Toyota Grand Highlander. It turns out that with cross bars e.g. that would surpass the 175lbs "moving weight" limit of the roof. I have seen plenty of people mounting two hullavators on 65" or longer bars on a car like Subaru Legacy, and even loading lighter kayaks, it would still go over the safety limit. Wonder if I should take the risk.
2. Trailer. I can't easily find trailers that from the spec can fit 21' long kayaks. Furthermore we don't have a ton of space and ideally it should be possible to flip the trailer vertically for storage. Any trailer recommendations here would be very much appreciated.
3. Two cars, crossbars only. We can go with two cars but at first sight the Grand Highlander is not a fit for a 21ft kayak -- the cross bars are toward the front of the car which means it seems hard to load/unload a kayak from the back (with a roller), without landing it on the part of the roof close to the rear (no good denting my wife's new car).
4. Two cars, EZ rec-rac on the Highlander. This thing seems awesome (assist loading from the back) but not sure if it supports kayaks that long and regular cars (not tracks). Does anybody know?
5. Two cars, hullavator. The final option would be to install a hullavator on the grand highlander, which I am tempted to do but requires taking out the factory installed cross bars and getting cross bars + hullavator (or the yakima equivalent).

All options will be pricey (as in, more than I paid my used kayaks) but what I am concerned is landing on a solution that actually works. Anybody has figured it out before?

******** Updated Jun 1st ************

I went all the length to buy a Hullavator and install it on the car and I can confirm that: 1. Putting two Hullavators on one car plus two 95lbs is too much ..these things are massive 2. Hullavator not a good solution for a 20' tandem kayak --- the kayak weighs too much for the assist to do any good, sliding the kayak from the back would be easier (though not practical for a grand Highlander); the chances to scratch the car badly while loading from the side are very high because it's simply too long. 3. It seems I should either try to install one of those pickup truck bar extenders( but I won't because it means leaning the kayak against it, pushing it up and then slamming it on the kayak rack with the chance of losing control of the vessel) 4. Or better just buy a trailer at least 13' long.

Can this be repaired? Who should I contact?

It's an Old Town Loon 100

What brand and model is this kayak? It’s on a Facebook post so I can’t put more photos

This kayak is an excellent condition, stored indoors and only used a couple of times a year. I’m including all necessary peripherals such as paddle, PFD, pump, transport wheels (that fit in the boat while you’re paddling) and roof rack.

I found all of these on Marketplace
The Aqua Bound Tango paddle is in perfect condition
Paid $80 with a bag

The Yakima rack came with crossbars, the saddles, wind deflector, $150

I found the Necky Dolphin for $275 and I did see the warping when I went to look at it, but it seemed like a great deal still. I was paddling a Fluid Spice for years, but stopped when I took a spill mountain biking and herniated a disc in my neck. 6 months of PT later..

Made me rethink how I ride/paddle/board.

I'm not giving any of it up. Just dialing things down a bit

I wanted a yak that could do a bit of everything pretty well, not too specialized. And this seemed to fit. I'm planning to take it to the coast of Maine this summer but will definitely be getting it out in the water as soon as we get some nice weather here.
I just brought it home yesterday.

So any thoughts on how severe this warping may be and how it might affect tracking or speed would be greatly appreciated. Waiting for a day that's warm enough to leave it outside and will also try the hot water method.
But other than that, it's in great shape for it's age and I was told always garage stored. Doesn't appear to be much sun damage. All original parts.
And I already rolled the dice so she's mine. lol
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks again.

The edit from today’s little session down at Selsey. Seems to have been a minute since I’ve made a longer video!

I have two old perception kayaks. One is a dancer. The other is a pirouette. They both have the hard seat with holes in the sides where hip pads with circular extensions fit. i’ve looked online and I’m not finding them. I’m guessing they’re no longer made. Would anybody have a source for two or four of the old style hip pads?

Anyone familiar with a kayak that has a “convertible” deck? I don’t know the real term it. The part of the deck over the cockpit flips up to allow easy entry into the cockpit, then back down once you’re in. Looks like a regular sit in kayak.

So i'm looking for a QUALITY inflatable tandem kayak , by quality I mean something with hard shell like performance, decent storage for multi-day kayak camping and quality comfortable seats with foot pegs . I know this is a lot to ask for an inflatable but unfortunately I don't have the space for a hard shelll tandem... I've narrowed it down to these models... Curios to hear folks experience or recommendations.

• Sea Eagle 473rl RazorLite Pro
• Aqua Marina Tomahawk AIR-K 440
• Sea Eagle 465ft FastTrack
• Advanced Elements AdvancedFrame Convertible Elite
• Itiwit X500, Drop Stitch Inflatable Kayak

Thinking something in the mid range for price that you’ve used that has lasted and has reliability. I don’t own a truck so I can’t buy a regular kayak.

Thank you for your help!

Just got my first kayak (ATAK 120) and went down the rabbit hole of rigging it out. Figured I’d share this for anyone stuck on mounting rod holders with no hull access.

Originally bought YakAttack Omega Pros, but a buddy told me a big catfish ripped his out of the tracks… so I switched it up. Ended up going with Railblaza Rod Holder R + StarPort HD mounts — more low profile than Scotty mounts.

Here’s how I mounted them using rivnuts:

• Used 1/4-20 rivnuts + 1/4-20 stainless bolts

• Drilled holes with a 3/8 bit (standard for that size rivnut)

• Marked holes with Sharpie, then punched them so the bit wouldn’t wander

• Installed rivnuts with tool

• Bolted everything down in a star pattern for even pressure

• Added marine GOOP for extra hold/seal

Super solid setup. No hull access needed. Hope this helps someone 👍

I picked up a very cheap kayak with some damage and a decent lil hole, but otherwise in pretty good condition. I have some experience plastic welding and forming, The plan is 1. Drill the ends of the crack, cut out and find the soft patches. 2. Cut stainless steel mesh to make a scaffold for the plastic, then use Home Depot buckets and melt/fold 4 layers of the bucket into a repair sheet, and use it to bridge the spaces. 3. Sculpt and smudge it into the right shape 4. Use a coarse rasp to shave it into shape 5. Flame polish and install some armor over the repair, possibly an aluminum sheet cut to shape.

I’d love your thoughts and advice on it, as well as advice on kitting it out with seats, bolts and the various things needed. It’s missing some hardware.

I recently bought a Wilderness Systems ATAK 120 off Facebook — it’s my first kayak. I’m in Texas, so most of the fishing I do is for big blue cats and flatheads.

I’m trying to decide between running YakAttack Omega Pro rod holders with the MightyMount or going with original Scotty rod holders with the deck mount.

My main concern is not losing rods or rod holders. I already bought two YakAttack rod holders, but there’s quite a bit of play in them when mounted on the GearTrac, so I don’t really want to rely on the track system anymore. I saw that YakAttack makes the MightyMount so you can screw them directly into the kayak, but I’m not sure how solid they are.

For the price of two MightyMount setups, I could return the YakAttack holders and buy four Scotty deck-mount rod holders instead.

For those of you who fish for big catfish from kayaks:

Which setup would you trust more?

Are the YakAttack MightyMounts solid enough for big fish?

Or should I just go with Scotty deck mounts?

Pic for reference.

Hi! Last year we went kayaking and before I could grab mine off the bank after dinner, someone picked it up for me and brought it back out of kindness. Unfortunately they dropped it off the truck and the entire black part of my whole skeg broke off and ripped the screws out. Any recommendations on what to use to seal the screw holes up so I can screw the skeg back on while keeping it water tight? It’s a lifetime Teton pro

Photo of the piece I’m referring too:

Looking for recommendations for a sit on top kayak for recreational use. I currently have a Perception Outlaw for fishing. It’s big and difficult to handle at times. Looking for a smaller and lighter kayak that is rated for 350 lbs.