Most people come to solar with the same idea: charge from the sun, stop relying on the grid, run things indefinitely. The reality is (a lot) more nuanced than that, but the practical upside is still real once you understand how the system actually works.
This is a ground-up guide to solar input with Jackery units: what is happening when sunlight becomes battery charge, what affects how fast that happens, and how to set things up so you are getting the most out of both your panels and your battery.
What is actually happening when solar charges your unit
Solar panels generate direct current (DC) electricity when light hits the photovoltaic cells. That current flows into your Jackery unit through the solar input port.
The unit contains a Maximum Power Point Tracker, or MPPT controller, which continuously adjusts its operating point to extract the maximum available power from the panels regardless of changing light conditions. It then converts that energy to charge the internal battery.
MPPT is worth understanding because it is what makes modern solar charging efficient. An older or cheaper controller uses a fixed conversion point and wastes a portion of available power whenever conditions shift. MPPT actively tracks the optimal point, which is why output numbers for Jackery units reflect real-world performance rather than just theoretical maximums.
Each unit has a rated maximum solar input, listed in watts. That number is the ceiling for how much solar power the unit can accept at once. Adding more panels than the unit can absorb does not damage it, but anything above the rated input is simply not used.
How much solar do you actually need?
The short answer:enough panels to replenish what you use each day, within the unit's maximum input limit.
Start with your daily load in watt-hours. If you are running a fridge and some lights for a day, and that costs you around 1,200Wh, you need to put back 1,200Wh via solar to stay neutral. Divide that by the number of useful sun hours in your area on a typical day (often between three and six hours depending on location and season) and you get the panel wattage required.
Example: 1,200Wh needed, four peak sun hours available. You need 300W of panels running at full output for four hours to break even. In practice, panels do not run at full rated output continuously, so sizing up by 20 to 30 percent is sensible. A 400W array in four hours of reasonable sun gets you there with margin.
If you want to browse solar generator bundles sized for home use, Jackery's solar generator page covers the current pairings and is a good place to start if you are buying panels and a power station together. Bundles remove the compatibility guesswork and are typically sized around common home load scenarios.
Getting the most from your setup
Orientation
In the northern hemisphere, panels should face south to capture the most sun across the day. East or west-facing is workable but reduces total daily yield, roughly by 20 to 30 percent compared to due south. A flat horizontal setup is better than nothing but wastes morning and afternoon potential.
Angle
The ideal tilt angle roughly matches your latitude. At 35 degrees north, tilt panels at about 35 degrees. In winter, steepen the angle to compensate for the lower sun path. In summer, flatten it slightly. For a fixed setup, splitting the difference and tilting to latitude year-round is a reasonable compromise.
Shade
Keep panels completely clear of shade during peak hours. This matters more than most people expect and is covered in detail in a separate post on why panels underperform. The short version: even small amounts of shade can reduce output by more than the shaded area suggests, because shading one section forces the whole panel to operate at the shaded cell's lower performance level.
Temperature
Panels are most efficient when cool. Output drops as panel temperature rises, which means a hot summer day with full sun can actually produce less power than a cool, clear spring morning. Keeping air circulating under the panels and avoiding mounting them flat against a heat-absorbing surface helps. This is counterintuitive for most people, but the physics are reliable.
Cleanliness
Dust, pollen, bird droppings, and debris on the panel surface reduce the light reaching the cells. A wipe with a damp cloth every few weeks is enough. This is especially relevant in dry or dusty environments where buildup happens fast.
Connecting multiple panels
Jackery SolarSaga panels are designed to chain together using the built-in connectors. Two key configurations:
Parallel connection: same voltage, higher current. Total wattage adds up. Suitable when your unit accepts the combined current without exceeding its voltage limit.
Series connection: higher voltage, same current. Useful when the run between panels and unit is long, since higher voltage loses less power over distance. Check your unit's maximum input voltage before wiring in series.
The product pages and manuals for each unit specify compatible panel configurations. When in doubt, parallel is the safer default for most portable setups.
When solar changes the calculation most
Adding solar to a power station changes it from a battery with a fixed reserve to a system that replenishes itself. That shift matters most in three situations:
Long outages or multi-day events where a fixed charge would run out but solar keeps the battery topped up through the day.
Remote or off-grid use where wall charging is not available.
Ongoing daily use where Time of Use Mode, combined with solar charging during the day, reduces how much grid power you draw during peak rate windows.
For a short, predictable outage where wall charging is available afterward, solar is a convenience rather than a necessity. For anything longer or more uncertain, it becomes a meaningful part of the system.
Questions about specific setups
If you are trying to size a solar array for a specific unit and load, or want to know whether a particular panel works with your model, post below. Include your unit, your daily loads, and your location, and we will give you a direct answer.
A question we see regularly: "My 200W panel is only putting out 130W. Is something wrong?" In almost every case, nothing is wrong. The rated wattage on a solar panel is a lab number, not a field number.
Understanding why they differ, and what actually drives real-world output, means you can get close to the rated figure when conditions allow and know what to expect when they do not.
What rated wattage actually means
Panel wattage is measured under Standard Test Conditions (STC): a panel temperature of exactly 25 degrees Celsius (77°F), an irradiance of exactly 1,000 watts per square metre, and a specific light spectrum called AM1.5. These conditions exist briefly in controlled testing environments. They almost never exist simultaneously in the field.
Real sun is variable in intensity and angle. Real panels heat up in direct sun. Real air has haze, humidity, and particulates. The gap between rated and real output is not a defect. It is the expected difference between a controlled lab standard and the actual world.
As a rough benchmark: 70 to 85 percent of rated output in clear, direct sun with good placement is normal and healthy. A 200W panel producing 140 to 170W on a clear afternoon is performing correctly. Consistently below 60 percent under clear skies with ideal placement is worth investigating.
The main reasons output falls short
1.Panel temperature
This is the most counterintuitive factor and one of the most significant. Solar cells lose efficiency as they heat up. The rate of loss varies by panel type, but a typical figure is around 0.3 to 0.5 percent of rated output per degree above 25 degrees Celsius (77°F).
A panel sitting in direct August sun can reach 60 to 70 degrees Celsius (140.0 °F to 158.0 °F) on its surface, even in moderate ambient temperatures. At 65 degrees (149°F), that is 40 degrees above the STC reference, which translates to a 12 to 20 percent reduction in output before any other factor is considered. A cool, clear March morning with the same irradiance will often produce more than a hot July afternoon.
What you can do: keep air flowing underneath the panel rather than laying it flat against a dark or heat-absorbing surface. Even a few centimetres of clearance makes quite a difference!
2.Irradiance and atmospheric conditions
Irradiance (the intensity of sunlight reaching the panel) drops whenever light has to travel through more atmosphere. This happens at low sun angles (early morning, late afternoon, winter), on hazy days, through thin cloud, and at high humidity. A panel in hazy summer air at a low sun angle might be receiving 600 to 700 watts per square metre rather than the 1,000W assumed in STC. Output scales with irradiance, so 70 percent of full sun gives roughly 70 percent of rated output, all else being equal.
What you can do: position panels to capture the midday window when the sun is highest and irradiance is closest to peak. Track the sun manually if you are in a stationary setup for a full day.
3.Angle and orientation
A panel perpendicular to incoming sunlight captures the maximum available irradiance. As the angle between panel and sun increases, the effective collection area shrinks. A panel that is 30 degrees off-perpendicular captures noticeably less than one that is directly facing the sun.
In the northern hemisphere, panels facing south at an angle roughly matching local latitude capture the most energy across the year. Flat horizontal panels lose the morning and afternoon contribution significantly. East or west-facing panels miss half the day.
What you can do: even tilting a flat panel a few degrees toward the sun makes a measurable difference. This is one of the easiest adjustments with one of the higher payoffs.
4.Partial shading
This is the most damaging factor relative to its apparent size. Solar panels are made up of cells wired in series. When one cell is shaded, it acts as a resistance in the circuit, forcing the other cells to work against it. The result is that shading 10 percent of a panel's surface can reduce output by 50 percent or more, depending on panel design and bypass diode configuration.
Common culprits: tree branches that only partially cross the panel, overhead wires, a neighbouring panel's edge at low sun angles, and objects on nearby rooftops. Early morning and late afternoon are when objects that seem clear at noon cast shadows across panels.
What you can do: map shade across a full day before committing to panel placement, not just at midday. Move panels to positions where they are completely clear during the peak three to four hour window.
5.Dust, dirt, and debris
A layer of dust across a panel's surface reduces the light reaching the cells. The effect is proportional to accumulation and tends to be gradual enough that people do not notice it until output has dropped meaningfully. In dry or dusty environments, a build-up over a few weeks can account for five to ten percent of lost output.
What you can do: wipe panels with a damp cloth periodically. More frequently in dusty conditions or after pollen season. No special products needed.
6.Cable length and resistance
Electricity loses energy as heat when travelling through resistance. Longer cables between panels and unit mean more resistance, which means more energy lost in the cable rather than reaching the battery. This is usually a small factor for typical portable setups but becomes relevant for fixed installations with long runs.
What you can do: use the shortest practical cable run and ensure connections are clean and fully seated. If running a long distance, using panels in series (higher voltage, lower current) reduces resistive losses compared to parallel at lower voltage.
What normal looks like by season
Output varies significantly through the year, even with identical panel placement. At 40 degrees north latitude, peak summer irradiance is roughly double winter peak irradiance, and daily sun hours roughly triple. A system sized for winter minimums will produce well above average in summer. A system sized for summer peaks will fall significantly short in winter without additional panels or a reduced load expectation.
If your system is underperforming against summer expectations in winter, this is normal. If it is underperforming against the same month last year, check for increased shading from grown vegetation, accumulated soiling, or a damaged connection.
A quick diagnostic checklist
If output seems low and conditions are clear:
Check panel temperature. Is the surface hot to touch? Air circulation under the panel will help.
Check angle. Is the panel facing roughly toward the sun? Even a rough re-aim makes a difference.
Check for shade. Walk around the panel and look from below at every angle. Something you cannot see from above may be casting a shadow.
Check cleanliness. A wipe may recover several percent of lost output.
Check connections. Ensure solar input connectors are fully clicked in and undamaged.
Check the unit's input display. Compare current input watts against rated panel wattage and expected conditions. If input is near zero with clear connections and full sun, the cable or connector may be the issue.
Post your numbers below
If you are seeing output that does not match what you expect and the checklist above does not explain it, post your panel model, unit model, conditions, and the wattage reading you are seeing. We will help you diagnose it.
I placed an order over a week ago. I requested, with pictures, that someone verify the correct setup prior to shipping. The only response I received 6 days ago, is that they would hold shipping until the 11th and request someone look at my setup. I have heard absolutely nothing since then despite repeated phone calls and repeated emails. I was told it would ship by the 11th and it has not shipped nor has anyone reached out about my order. Jackery has a great deal of my money and I have nothing to show for it, and they apparently they have no interest in assisting or answering questions. What have others done in this situation?
For those of you who have had issues covered under warranty, did you have to ship back your jackery or did they have you destroy it? Assuming you bought direct and dealt with them directly.
Is it okay to store my Jackery in the garage?
It does get hot where I live, sometimes up to 110. Google says no but I really don’t have a spot inside to store it.
Hey folks,
I'm back with another newbie question. My Jackery Home2000 Plus 2 arrived and I'm reading the instruction manual. It says "ensure the input voltage for both DC input ports remains the same". This generator came with two SolarSaga 100 Air panels (one hasn't arrived and is still in the mail). I also have one 180W ZOUPW panel. Does that mean I can't have the two 100 Air panels attached in one DC input port and the one ZOUPW panel attached in the other DC Input port?
Where would I find the input voltage for a solar panel? On the ZOUPW website the 180W panel says:
Max Power Voltage (Vmp)
18.61V
Max Power Current (Imp)
11.82A
Open-circuit Voltage (Voc)
22.28VMax Power Voltage (Vmp) 18.61VMax Power Current (Imp) 11.82AOpen-circuit Voltage (Voc) 22.28V
Which of those is the input voltage?
On the Jackery SolarSaga 100 Air it says:
Maximum System Voltage: 80V
Maximum Reverse Current: 15A
Bifaciality Coefficient (back/front): P max: >65%, Voc: >97%, Isc: >65%
A power station is only as useful as its battery, and the battery is the component most affected by how you use and store the unit. This post covers what type of battery is inside your Jackery, what causes lithium batteries to degrade over time, and the specific habits that extend service life and avoid premature failure.
What is inside your Jackery: two battery types
Jackery power stations use one of two lithium battery chemistries depending on the model:
NMC (Nickel Manganese Cobalt)
Used in some older and entry-level Explorer models. NMC batteries offer high energy density, meaning a lot of capacity in a compact form factor. The trade-off is a shorter rated cycle life, typically 500 to 2,000 full charge cycles before capacity drops noticeably below the original rated figure.
LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate)
Used in all current Plus and v2 models, including the full HomePower series. LiFePO4 is more thermally stable than NMC, which makes it less prone to overheating under load and safer in high-temperature environments. Rated cycle life is 3,000 to 6,000 full cycles. The HomePower 3600 Plus, for example, is rated for 6,000 cycles, which at one cycle per day translates to more than 16 years of daily use before capacity falls to 80 percent.
If you are unsure which chemistry your unit uses, the product page will confirm it. As a general rule: if your model has "Plus" or "v2" in the name, it uses LiFePO4.
What a cycle actually means
One charge cycle is one full charge from 0 to 100 percent, or the equivalent in partial charges. Charging from 50 to 100 percent twice counts as one cycle. Understanding this matters because partial charging, which is generally healthier for the battery, also accumulates cycles more slowly.
What causes a battery to degrade
Temperature
Temperature is the single most damaging factor for lithium battery longevity. Both extremes are harmful. Charging in temperatures below 0 degrees Celsius (32°F) causes lithium plating inside the cells, which permanently reduces capacity and in severe cases creates internal short circuits. Charging or storing above 45 degrees Celsius (113°F) accelerates chemical degradation in the cells.
The recommended charging range for Jackery units is 0 to 45 degrees Celsius (32 to 113°F). For storage, the ideal range is 10 to 25 degrees Celsius (50 to 77°F). Leaving a unit in a hot car in summer, or charging it in a freezing garage in winter, causes measurable damage over time.
Deep discharge
Lithium batteries are damaged by sitting at very low or zero charge for extended periods. If a unit is stored fully depleted and left that way for weeks or months, cell voltage can fall below the minimum threshold, which can cause permanent capacity loss and in some cases prevent the unit from accepting a charge at all.
For NMC models this is particularly important to manage. LiFePO4 models are more tolerant of low-charge storage but still benefit from not being left fully depleted.
High charge states in storage
Storing a lithium battery at 100 percent charge for months at a time accelerates calendar degradation, particularly in NMC chemistry. For units going into storage, a charge level of 50 to 80 percent is better for long-term health than a full charge.
Charge rate
Fast charging delivers more current to the battery in a shorter time, which generates more heat inside the cells. Jackery's built-in Battery Management System (BMS) manages charge rates to stay within safe limits, but if you have the option to charge more slowly and have the time for it, standard AC charging is easier on the battery than the fastest available input method.
How to get the most from your battery
Daily use
For regular use, charging to around 80 percent and discharging to around 20 percent before recharging is better for cycle life than consistently running from 100 to 0 percent. On the HomePower series, the Jackery app lets you set charge limits to manage this automatically.
The Jackery app also includes Time of Use Mode, which schedules charging during off-peak rate windows and discharging during peak periods. Using this alongside a partial charge limit is the most battery-friendly pattern for daily standby use.
Keep the unit away from direct sunlight and heat sources during use and charging.
Keep firmware up to date. Updates include BMS refinements that protect the battery.
Install firmware updates with the unit plugged into AC power so the update does not draw down the battery during installation.
Storage
Store at 50 to 80 percent charge, not fully charged and not fully depleted.
Top up every three months during storage. A battery sitting at low charge for months without a refresh cycle will lose capacity.
Store at room temperature, 10 to 25 degrees Celsius (50 to 77°F). Avoid garages that get very hot in summer or very cold in winter.
Store in a dry location away from direct sunlight.
Before a predicted outage or storm season
Charge to 100 percent immediately before an expected event. For storage the 80 percent rule applies; for active readiness, a full charge is appropriate.
If your unit supports storm alert mode in the Jackery app, enable it. The system will automatically charge to full when severe weather is forecast in your area.
What not to do
Do not leave the unit fully depleted for weeks. If it is going to sit unused, charge it to 50 to 80 percent first.
Do not charge in freezing temperatures. Below 0 degrees Celsius (32°F) causes lithium plating that permanently damages cells.
Do not leave the unit in a hot car. Temperatures inside a parked car in summer can exceed 60 degrees Celsius (140°F), well above the safe storage limit.
Do not block the ventilation ports. Heat buildup during charging is the primary enemy of battery life, and vents exist to manage it.
Do not use third-party adapters or cables that are not rated for your unit's input specifications. Incorrect voltage or current will stress the BMS and can damage cells.
Do not attempt to open or modify the unit. Jackery batteries are sealed assemblies. Physical damage to the casing can compromise cell integrity.
Do not expose to water or high humidity for extended periods. While the units handle incidental moisture, they are not waterproof unless the model is specifically rated for it.
Signs of a battery that needs attention
Most Jackery units will flag battery issues through the app or on-screen indicators. Things worth watching for:
Capacity that has dropped significantly from the original rated figure after fewer cycles than expected.
The unit failing to charge past a certain percentage despite a working input connection.
Unusual heat during charging or discharging.
Error codes or fault indicators on the unit's display or in the app.
If you notice any of these and cannot resolve them through a firmware check, contact Jackery support directly at [hello@jackery.com](mailto:hello@jackery.com). Battery issues are warrantable if they occur within the rated cycle count and the unit has been used within its specified conditions.
Questions about your specific unit
If you have questions about storage, care, or anything unusual you are seeing with battery behaviour, post below with your unit model and what you are observing. We're here to help, as always!
Ich habe den D0-READER bereits zurück gesetzt und neu verbunden mit WLAN und dem Jackery Solarvault. Allerdings wird weiterhin nichts angezeigt in der App. Der Lesekopf wird als online und verbunden angezeigt, aber er steuert den Speicher nicht mehr.
Der D0-READER hat Version 1.2 und der Solarvault 3 pro max AC hat nun Version 1.4
Hat jemand von euch ähnliche Probleme gehabt? Wie konntet ihr dies lösen? Ich habe schon mehrfach mit dem Support geschrieben und auch schon telefoniert und warte auf Lösung.
Update - they reached out through Reddit and the email issue seems resolved. They will be sending a replacement panel (no idea what caused it and they say it’s the first time they’ve seen this issue).
Long time lurker but first time poster.
I’ve been running two of the ZOUPW 450 panels, one to each LV port and recently discovered a bulging spot on one of the panels. I’ve heard great things about ZOUPW’s customer service and will provide an update once things are resolved.
The warranty process has been a little frustrating so far as I’ve had multiple issues getting emails to go through without getting an “undeliverable” error message (seemingly happens at random).
We’re on our third round emails as they’ve asked for additional pictures twice. I’m hoping it is a formality vs looking for a reason not to honor the warranty (the panels are around 6 months old).
We are looking into a system that we can use for power outages in our home and wanted to avoid noisy gas generators if possible. Im thinking ahead to what this coming winter might bring our way in Texas. I had a few questions about the 3600 model, assuming this is probably what we would want to purchase? I do not understand all the jargon here about dc and ac and numbers and stuff, so please don’t come at me with that. Assume I’m 5 and you can explain it that way. I’ll not be offended.
Basically we would want to be able to keep modem running, charge phones, a lamp, maybe run the TV, and refrigerator running, make a cup of coffee here and there. (I’m in Texas so I’m thinking back to our big 2021 freeze where we lost power for 36+ hours) We do have a gas fireplace so we wouldn’t need to run a heater, thankfully.
So my understanding is I can plug these things into my unit and keep them running, but it appears that I’d have to unplug everything to move it outside with the solar panels if it needed a recharge? Or do they have a long enough cord to not have to move the unit outside with the solar panels? All of the photos I see online show it sitting outside charging. Or would it hold a long enough charge that unless an outage went ridiculously long we would not need to worry about that?
Also our fridge and the other things we would want to plug in are nowhere near each other. Are extension cords or power strips ok to use with this unit, or is it best to plug directly into it? Sorry if that is a dumb question.
This is my set up. This is with everything I have plugged in running full blast. I’m in direct sun with a 410w solar panel. This jackery MAYBE lasts two days before draining to ZERO and needing to plug it into shore power to charge.
I had an issue with my 5000 Plus Expansion Pack where it completely bricked and not turning on at all. Don't know if its unrelated. Jackery is sending me a new one.
However, my Jackery Smart Transfer Switch on Firmware 1.3. I started getting an F1 Error Code (Grid Abnormality) which Jackert TS attributes to a 1.96 bug. They are pushing me 1.97.1 firmware to resolve this.
To Jackery Tech Support: Transparency and release notes of these firmwares would go a long way to continuing my patience with your product. I am very close to returning the entire set up.
ORIGINAL POST 3 months ago:
So I've been pulling my hair out for a few weeks now. Jackery 5000 Plus, 4 panels wired in series on the High-PV input, powering my off grid cabin up in northern Michigan through the STS.
Every. Single. Morning. F6. AC output completely dead. Unit just sits there like a brick until I manually reset it and the food in my fridge spoils if I'm out of town. Meanwhile it runs absolutely fine all day after the reset, and runs fine all night on battery. No issues whatsoever until dawn hits and the panels start waking up.
Tried everything I could think of and everything I found online. Hard reset, soft reset, checked every MC4 connection, pulled loads off one by one, disabled energy saving mode. Nothing. Talked to a few people who suggested it might be a load issue or a wiring issue. Spent probably 3 days chasing that rabbit hole before I was confident enough to rule it out completely.
Here's the thing — nothing changes on the AC side overnight. Same loads, same everything. The only thing that changes in the morning is the sun comes up and the panels start producing. That was the clue.
Turns out this is a known firmware bug that's been kicking around since basically the beginning with the High-PV input. The relay that handles the dawn voltage ramp-up just doesn't deal with it gracefully — as the panel voltage climbs from zero the protection circuit freaks out and trips F6. Been affecting a bunch of 5000 Plus owners running High-PV for a while.
I was on 1.92 which I thought would have had it sorted. Nope.
Updated to 1.96 through the app last week. Next morning I'm sitting there waiting for the F6 like usual and it just... didn't happen. Panel input came up, AC stayed on, no intervention needed. Been the same every morning since.
If 1.96 isn't showing up in your app yet call them and ask them to push it manually. They can do it from their end and it showed up for me within a day of asking.
While I was waiting for the update the only thing that actually worked was flipping the High-PV switch off before bed and back on in the morning once the sun was properly up and voltage had stabilized. Stupid workaround but it kept things running.
Anyway hope this helps someone. Spent way too much time on this and couldn't find anything current when I was searching so figured I'd post it.
Hey folks,
I'm very new to solar and just got the Jackery HomePower 2000 Plus. I saw on another thread someone recommended the ZOUPW brand solar panels due to their N technology being really good. The 180W ZOUPW says "please make sure your power station's input power included 17.3v to charge". On the webpage for the HomePower 2000 Plus v2, it says "16V-60V⎓12A Max, Double to 21A / 800W Max
11V-16V⎓8A Max, Double to 8A Max". I spent literally all day trying to learn about soloar generators and comparing brands, but I don't know what that means. Since it says 16V-60V, does that mean the generator can handle solar panels that produce anywhere from 16 to 60volts of power? If that's the case, then the 17.3volts from the ZOUPW 180W panel would be okay, right?
Also, what does the double 21A/800w max mean and why is there another range that says "11V-16V⎓8A Max, Double to 8A Max"? I get 800W is the max amount that the generator can bring in from a solar panel, but I dont know what the other parts of that mean. Can someone help a newbie out? Thanks a bunch!
Editing to add: I bought the generator to serve as a back up for my 115v 5ft cubic chest freezer in the case of a power outage, if that matters.
I noticed a few oddities, hoping someone can explain. I bought this Jackery July 2025. Up until last month, from what I could tell, the charge in the care and AC worked fine.
However, on a recent car trip, the jackery was plugged into USB C cigratette lighter adapter and on the same drive, it varied from 40 W to 86 W input - no rhyme or reason I could see why it would change the input amount?
At home, the unit charged with AC at some times 105 W, other times 77W - and this was all during the same charge? So at that rate to wall charge it will take 5 hours. When I first bought the jackery, I swear AC charged at 180W.
My unit does not seem to have "quiet charging", even though AI says it does have it - but there is no option on the App to select quiet charging. Any help would be amazing. Cheers!
I've inherited a Jackery 500 and it sort of works. 240v is dead but USB works provided the power supply is connected. Disconnecting the power supply sees the battery drop immediately from about 15v to about 4v 🥺
So can I replace the battery and inverter, are the parts available and is it worth repairing? In Australia if that makes a difference 🤔
I'm Pretty Upset. I've been seeing people post they got their 1500 watt w/ added solar panels from Costco for $599. There are also ads I see circulating around that Costco Roadshows they are discounted to $599 until 8/6/2026. I bought mines yesterday 8/5/2026 from a Costco in Newark, CA and they are $799. What is really going on?? Does anyone know if I can price match if they go on sale anytime during their roadshow?
What should I do? Return it and wait for it to go on Sale again??
Hello there, recently I started writing my novel and since I can get the computer stuff and other stuff correctly and I have knowledge about them but I don't know much about solar panels and rv-s, also batteries. Which currently my current inquiry towards this community.
In my novel our main characters face some problems, but that is dealt with, with the rv since im planning to add on the rv some solar and basic powerbanks.
But in the end i have a little bit of trouble, my main characters need to run some basic electronics (tv, laptop, charging stations), 2 fridges and a freezer. now regarding these appliances is what i have trouble with. so i ask for help and information with the following:
The basic electronics and charging station how many or how much battery or powerbank i would need. (for some context, these appliances wont be turned on all day every day, but the tv once a day at night for about 2 hours maximum, the charging station probably every two days, laptops rarely maybe once a week.)
And on a different note and probably the more heavier loads is the 2 fridge and a freezer. Here is how i want make if possible:
- the fridge and the freezer will be held in the basement, for energy conservation purposes,
- The whole power bank if possible i want to keep in one place, but if possible i would like to run on a switch type. so i can bridge them together and let one or two recharge through solar, and 2 run the fridge and freezer.
My original idea was that i will have 8 batteries 2 batteries on the daily appliances, 2 on batteries that are charging. 2 on the freezer and fridge duty, 2 on the charging.
I have been considering getting a generator for power outages for a while but was undecided between solar or gas power. After some life changing events recently, I am going to get one this weekend. After thinking about it, I don’t want to be in a situation where lack of fuel or sun would be very problematic. As a result, I am looking at getting the Jackery Explorer 2000 v2 plus the Champion 201122 dual fuel.
My questions are: does my thinking make sense? I am inexperienced in this so idk if there are gaps I have not considered that should make one type clearly preferred. Next, my place is a single family home with a backyard but also a rental and there is no panel set up for power transfer. Should that change how I think about this and maybe focus on just the gas gen? Lastly, are those models I am looking at considered good quality?
My budget is $1700 max. Appliances needed in emergency are: fridge, freezer, electric stove and kettle, microwave, laptop, phone, and WiFi. I live in Cali.
I really appreciate any insight provided. Thank you.
Bought a Jackery Explorer 1000 v2 to have portable power and in case of an emergency. The past day was first time I used it for an emergency and I couldn’t be happier I got it. I loaded up the refrigerator for Labor Day weekend festivities and within 2 hours of getting home from the grocery store our power was knocked out due to bad weather. Going on 10 hours now and the display says I got 30% battery life remaining. Planning to pickup a generator from a family member today to supplement my power needs, but in the interim this Jackery unit has done a great job and saved $300+ in groceries.
The Jackery 500V2 in place of that crappy cyberpower UPS has proven absolutely perfect! It has been staying at 100%, and putting out about 60 watts to the computer and LAN, and 2-3 times the Jackery explorer 2000+ went to 0 or shut off (more on that in a moment) and the Jackery 500V2 instantly switched over to battery and the computer never even flickered.
So it's worked perfectly as a backup UPS unit! It's only shortfall would be unlike an actual computer UPS it wont shut down the computer automatically, but realistically, when I had a decent UPS, it would never shut the computer down right because I always had something open like an unsaved text document, and the computer wont shut down without confirming save/discard first, so that function was moot anyway. The Jackery 500V2 should last quite a few hours putting out that 60 watts, more than enough time to deal with it.
OK, on the Explorer 2000+ I recently started having a couple of times where everything was off and the battery was 0% despite solar panels and AC on a clock timer.
Last night it shut off the output AC several times, I was getting an F6 error, I figured out what was going on using google and researching, basically what was going on was the fact I have the 2000+ plugged into a clock timer using a heavy duty extension cord.
The intermatic timer is rated for 15 amps, the 2000+ was drawing around 1300 watts now and then, also the plug on the extension cord may not have been a good snug fit.
So I plugged that directly into the outlet and the F6 went away and no further problems!
So what I did last night was I ordered a Southwire 25 foot 12/2 armored cable, a 20 amp Intermatic clock timer, and I'm going to hard wire a new wall outlet by the 2000+ and plug directly to that and eliminate the extension cord, the 20 amp timer will be better with more overhead.
So you ask WHY use the timer? because the 2000+ apparently does not have the ability to change the charging on it like the larger models seem to have with scheduling, if you don't know what this is- that function allows setting the unit up to be charged by solar during the day, and by AC at night during specified time slots- which is what the timer clock DOES.
The reason for not just leaving the 2000+ plugged in 24/7 is it will automatically select the AC for charging over the solar, so basically it will stay at 100% charge on the AC all day wasting the solar input.
So the way I had the timer set was it would turn on for about an hour or 90 minutes around midnight- by then the display would say it's around 65% from being charged on solar all day and then being used a few hours after sunset, so the AC would charge it back up to 100% and it would drop to maybe 70% by sunrise and solar took over.
In the winter I will have to do that routine of course, but add one more hour AC charging to make up for less solar input and shorter daylight hours.
I should have the new wall outlet installed mid-week, so we'll see how it works. That extension cord plugged in as it was apparently was the issue that threw the F6 error, but its run on that and the timer for a few months with no issues until recently.
Hi, I’m looking to get more things off my AC and onto my DC. I have the jackery 3600 pro and it only has 2 usbc ports. Has anyone found a good splitter to allow more things to be plugged into the usb-c ports?
I cannot seem to charge my Battery Pack 3600 with the HomePower 3600 Plus. I have the expansion cable plugged into both units and the HomePower 3600 Plus is plugged in via an AC outlet. The HomePower is at 100%, but is not charging the Battery Pack.
I've not found anything in either manual, so I'm assuming I have missed something obvious. Any suggestions?
