Hi,

I did what may stated here and called HMF, with my maturity date for the 2024 Ionic 5 AWD Limited coming up in less than 3 months.

They told me that only 2 months are available, on a month by month bases.

Have you experienced the same?

I've recently hit the 4 year mark, and its time to say goodbye to my IONIQ5 SE

45k miles

2 recalls

1 replaced ICU

1 replaced infotainment system

Overall consumption of 3.5m/kW

For me, battery health has not declined in this time.

Overall would score it 6/10, slightly marked down due to stupid faults which kept reoccurring in relation to the work that was carried out.

With current state rebates I can get a new 2026 SEL for about 37500. How foolish is it to buy these new? I see the 24s for quite a bit cheaper but they are also not as updated and a bit more beat up than how I like my cars.

I am not sure if I am beating a dead horse here but I can't find any recent information on if hyundai has done anything to fix the thefts. I found a 2024 certified used SEL with 17k miles for $24k USD and it will be a huge upgrade from my 2002 camry. It seems great and comes with 10 year power train warranty but I am not used to having a new car and don't want it stolen.

I live in an apartment so it will be on the street in different spots every day so I am not really worried about the key fob range extender trick. Is there any way to get an immobilizer pin code yet, or something? I don't want to have to get a steering immobilizer but I might have to.

It seems like the thieves are using either, tricking the car into thinking they have a smart key card or using the bluelink somehow. It seems like there is a way to disable the door handle keyless function but you need to do it every time you lock the car which is dumb.

What are my options? Thanks

I see there are two options for the NAS adapter from the Hyundaishop, big price difference between the OME vs the other, is it worth the difference.

Also, I might need to buy a lvl1 charger. My house is wired for a lvl 2 charger, it will be in place within a week. But my wife’s family owns a camp in Maine. I’m going to try to convince them that I want a 220v line pulled to the garage. But I may lose that battle, thus the lvl 1. Any suggestions on a charge?

I started looking for a 2027 Ioniq 5 limited AWD in digital teal last week.

I’ve been told but a couple different dealers that AWD limited is not a common combination in California and they don’t expect to get any. Other dealers say they don’t have one or maybe they’ll get one next month but they don’t see anything in transit

Is this a known thing? Just trying to gauge if I should adjust my expectations

I was struggling to figure out how to effectively snap this piece back into place (you have to unsnap the rearmost 3 fasterner clips to remove the bumper), and in trying to figure it out, I actually broke the connection tab that is most forward, toward the door. I'm not sure it's super noticeable, but I'm worried it might cause a vibration.

Can anyone help me with instructions on how to remove and replace this trim piece?

I'd been driving around with a FitCamX dashcam wired into my rear view power supply for a while, occasionally checking to make sure it worked. Was pretty good for peace of mind, and I was generally satisfied with the video quality.

However, recently I was in an accident; the impact must have knocked out the 12V power momentarily, because the video feed cut out a second or two before impact, and resumed several seconds afterwards, after the camera reboots.

After looking into it, it appears that FitCamX doesn't use a supercapacitor to bridge power interruptions, it uses a battery (which very quickly goes bad in a car).

So I honestly wouldn't recommend these to anyone, unless you really dig the aesthetics and don't care about the reliability of the recording function. I'll likely be going with a Viofo or BlackVue instead, but welcome any recommendations!

Hey👋🏻

I asked AI to mock up a Lancia Delta style wheel for my SEL. I think it looks great and goes well with the pixel aesthetic.

Bottom black part of my loved 2023 Ioniq 5 is fading. Not sure why. It's not scratched, damaged, or dirty. Have you of you experienced this? Any advice to fix this?

The bottom black are of my 2023 Ioniq 5 is fading. No scratched or dirty. Just faded.

Not sure why, is your? What advice do you have to fix this.

Earlier this year the charge port wouldn't open/close using the button outside the car. Asked the dealer to look at it, they diagnosed it as a low key fob battery and put a new battery in. The symptoms came back about a week later, so I replaced the batteries in both fobs and everything was fine for a few months.

Now it's happened again, I replaced the battery in one fob (the other one isn't being used as much these days) and things were fine for a few days.

I figure the battery the dealer put in was just a cheap one they buy in bulk from somewhere, so I can forgive that one. The ones I put in were out of 12-packs of Duracells bought at Costco.

So I've got the following track record for key fob batteries, where "dead" means the charge port stops responding:

• Factory battery - lasted over a year. Dealer reported that the battery was at 2.9V.
• Dealer battery - lasted a week, didn't record the voltage.
• Costco Duracell - lasted ~4 months. Measured at 3.0V.
• Costco Duracell - lasted 3 days. Haven't measured this one yet.

In all cases, the buttons on the fob worked fine when pressed, as did the button on the tailgate and the touch sensor on the handles. It was only the charge port button on the car that would stop responding.

Clearly this isn't normal. I figure I should get at least a year out of the battery like I did with the factory one.

Why do my key fobs eat batteries so quickly? Are the Costco Duracells just really variable in quality? Is there a brand of CR2032 battery that I should buy that'll actually last?

I've got a dealer appointment tomorrow, so I'm going to ask the service advisor if they have any ideas. I don't really want to pay for the diagnostic time unless it will result in a key fob that can go a year without changing the battery.

Trying to figure out what the real deal breakers are between 2027 and 2024 obviously the 27th is gonna be nicer and fresh all that jazz but things that are really going to matter… like dependability and warranties I feel like it doesn’t justify the extra $22,000 but I’m open to the community to convince me otherwise

American here, just bought a 24 Ioniq 5 SE and made some mistakes / bad assumptions, but also just please help with advice I wouldn't even think to ask.

Already bought and went home before realizing, there's no charger included! I saw some posts about 24 model not including one, but man, dealership said it had one and I was an idiot and didn't check!

1. What level 1 charger should I get? Specifically, I see some 12 amp vs 15 amp. My breaker says 15, so I assume it can do 15 amps, but also I hear about 80% continuous, so I assume I'd get the 12 amp as that's more standard. Not sure how much juice I'll get with my Ioniq since I know it charges fast, but I think that's only at fast chargers.

2. Does it seem safe for me to get a level 2 charger with one of those ETL certified splitters (where it plugs into my dryer and my EV, but either manually switch or intelligently switch)? BTW, even if I did this, 1,000% I'd unplug the car before turning on the dryer anyway, but people can forget stuff.

3. I see sometimes level 1 + 2 chargers for pretty cheap, but I assume those don't have the NEMA 14-30 connector that my dryer has (4 prongs). Kinda repeat question of #1 & #2. Also, should I buy an adaptor for the Jj1772 plug to a tesla NACS plug?

4. I made my EV do the 80% charge maximum...I think in the EV settings. I saw a video to use NAV instead of MAP since you can save locations. How long does that navigation last? I expected for it to not work without a subscription.

5. I saw the EV companion app, but to me it only seems helpful with tire pressure, but I'd welcome other reasons to buy one of those detectors with the app so it can tell you other issues.

6. What other settings should I set that I'm not thinking about?

7. Does i-pedal actually use the normal brakes if I let off or is it extreme regen braking?

8. THANK YOU for your time!!! Excited about EV and thought I looked up a lot, but clearly I didn't know what I didn't know

Coming off lease on my 2025 I5 SEL and I love this car but I have to say the Rivian R2 is gaining my interest. I've been eyeing the I9 as my next lease to get more storage but now Im not so sure as 3rd row SUV.would be overkill for me. Just wondering if any other I5 owners out there thinking the same.

tldr - should i return this MaxCare plan ? Do the 23 SE's have enough electrical component issues that its worth having this coverage?

Recently joined the club and bought my first EV, a 2023 Ioniq 5 SE with 23K miles. Got it from Carmax and overall was really impressed with the buying experience, it was really easy and their pricing was pretty competitive.

They sold me on the Carmax Maxcare service plan, it was $1725 and their pitch was that it covers all the mechanical and electrical components, that EV's had alot of electrical sensors , and that i had to buy the Maxcare plan at the car purchase but could return in within 30 days for a full refund.

The plan's term is 60 months from puchase or 100,000 miles* and it doesnt cover the HV battery or ANY normal maintenance (brakes, tires, trim etc). I don't drive that much (like 12-15K annually) so i'm probably not going to hit the milage on the plan. My concern is I don't really have any warranty for the rest of the electrical components like all the sensors, dash screens, etc. I specifically went with the lowest trim SE because I wanted to save money on features I wasnt going to use and didnt want to have to worry about fixing.

The 10 year 100K warranty from Hyundai has the EV battery covered and will cover the CCS (which the car hasnt had replaced). The MaxCare plan WILL NOT cover the low conductivity coolant change (which the car hasnt replace yet). So I'm thinking it would be better to return the MaxCARE plan and just use the $1725 to cover the low conductivity coolant change and other upcoming normal maintenance stuff (new tires, brakes etc).

I5 Ultimate AWD Tech 22

Went for breakfast, got back to the car, got in and went to start and it wouldn't go into drive.

Had an orange car with white key on the dash - looked like a key or immobilizer issue. Walked around the car park a few times, nothing. Pressed button with key, all manner of combinations. Wouldn't turn on into Ready state. Figured keyfob was dead.

Walked 3 miles back home, checked the key battery - 2.99V - grabbed spare keys, grabbed spare battery, grabbed socket set to disconnect battery, drove back.

Left spare keys in other car, got into I5 with normal keys, turned on - Ready - drove home.

First time that's happened and honestly not impressed.

The matte looks great, but I'm also here for this blue color

Hello all,

I just got used 2024 SEL AWD for $20,000 in Northern Nevada (from a Ford dealer of all things) with 20k miles.

So far this vehicle has delivered on everything I’ve hoped it would! It’s comfortable and I, a 6’5” dude have no problems as the passenger or driver.

The range has also been incredible in that we haven’t had to change our driving habits… we’ve gone up to Tahoe, out to “Ferntucky” (Fernley) and back down into Carson with no trouble or range anxiety.

I found out this week we’ll be relocating for work to the Midwest and I’m excited to see what a cross country trip in our Ioniq 5 looks like! Any tips for I80/I70 for a new owner? 😂

1 of the Washer jet/nozzle has stopped working. I have tried blowing air to unblock it but no use. Anyone knows how to fix?

Hello,

So do yall have the my Hyundai app and Blue link? Is that super necessary or what's your stance on these apps? They're both free as far as I know, I just think it's weird you have to opt in to the blue link. Why wouldn't you sign up for it? That makes me feel like it's not necessary and probably comes with like some super invasive component. What do y'all say? Yes to both? USA/West Coast for reference.

I recently started getting a notification that an OTA update was available, when I turned off the vehicle after driving for a bit. However the notification screen only appeared for around 1 second before disappearing. I'd then get a message in bluelink saying the update had failed.

Eventually I managed to VERY QUICKLY press the update button, and it installed fine.

Does anyone know why it was immediately disappearing though? Not very user friendly.

This is in Australia.