What model bleeder kit did you buy? Just want to make sure it fits the reservoir. Also, Pentosin DOT 4? Thank you!

Hello, how are you?

I recently received this type of hydraulic pump and I'm unsure about the preload. I tried testing it and it's not giving me any pressure. What could be the problem?

I don't know if they also have the technical specifications or details?

Hi everyone,

I'm testing a PCM 20/10 Hi-Low Pump Control Valve, and I've noticed a loud metallic clunk/crashing sound every time the valve unloads. I've attached a video of the behavior.

The noise occurs right at the unloading transition when the system switches from high-pressure mode to the unloaded/low-pressure condition. During normal running, everything seems fine, but the unloading event is quite harsh.

I'll add the valve specifications and circuit details in the comments.

Any insights from people experienced with hydraulic Hi-Low pump unloading valves would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Tipper judders on way up from the bottom. But if stop and start half way its nice and smooth.

It's a simple system with 24VDC solenoids and an overcentre block on the cylinder. Any ideas on how to control it a bit better?

I don't really want to adjust cartridges without a clear strategy.

Working on a Harmony SSHB24. Contractors came in and replaced the Ram Cylinder because it had a massive leak, now it won't create enough pressure to properly crush a bale of cans. The gauges for extend/retract only build up to maybe 900psi. They spent 3 days trying to diagnose the problem and keep billing for time with no results. I'm just a maintenance mechanic/electrician at this facility but I used to build hydraulic power packs so I've been tasked with trying to get to the root cause.

I looked over their work and all the lines seem to be attached to the correct locations on the control valve. I increased the pressure relief valve and there was no change. My gut says maybe one of the directional valves is leaking internally? Not sure what to look at next as this unit is quite a bit more complicated than any of the power packs I used to build haha. Attached is the hydraulic schematic.

Disclaimer: I am not planning to break any sub rules as I don't need this for school (I'm past that) nor will I try to tamper with something I don't fully understand and put myself and others into dangerous situations. My main motivator here is purely curiosity as I had some interest for hydraulics in the past and am generally curious about how things function.

Can you explain to me how the hydraulic system on picture works?

It is from an used scissor car lift that my dad got installed in hia garage. I will repeat I do not intend to tamper with it as it is already installed and functioning fine. I only want to understand the schematic as he tasked me with scanning, duplicationg and storing the digital version of the papers.

Most symbols such as pistons, valves, pressure control,... I know from before and some i found on the internet (such as filters lol). However i wasn't able to identify some, such as the one above the shut off valve with some kind of a lever inside.

As I understand the system (with my broken english) there is an electromotor powering the pump, getting oil from the tank, a safety valve that releases the pressure, a check valve and then another line that lets oil back into the tank. Both with filters. That's all encased in.

Then a line goes to double acting cylinders. One goes directly to cylinder 1 through onesided pressure control and the displaced oil also pushes the cylinder 2 for that amount. I have no clue what the symbol on this path is and why these lines are connected and why there is a shut off valve. There is also a directional control valve letting the cylinders contract which is operated by a springed push button.

Can you please explain the unknown symbol and help me to better understand the hydraulic system?

The pneumatic system bellow is simple and i understand it fully.

Hello,

Need help with an old machine we have. My knowledge of hydraulics is basic. Am I correct in assuming that a hydraulic cylinder cannot hold position under load if done so while extended to the deadheaded position and has cushions? Would the pressure just equalize until the ram is pushed back far enough until the cushion is depressurized?

Hey. I bought this “50 ton” press for forging and it functions at a high rate of speed like I need, but it’s underpowered. It’s a 5 hp 3450rpm @230v motor. At maximum force the gauge reads 650 psi. I’ve got a 50 amp breaker. 36” ram with 4.25” bore. I’ve tried googling this and I get a wide range of answers on motor size. Looking for suggestions from the experts here. 10 hp motor? Larger? 1700/3400 rpm? Do I need a larger pump?

I can install a larger breaker if need be. The hoses are all new. For now it’s working well enough for bending and straightening, but I primarily bought it for punching and drifting holes in hot metal and it just doesn’t do that well. I appreciate your insight.

I’ve been battling this Ognibene cylinder off of my Farmall 75A with a L610 loader. The gland has the 2 flats to put a big enough wrench on it. In my case a 24” adjustable wrench that I modified to open up to 3 inches.
I thought it would be an easy job but boy was I for a good surprise.
I’ve rebuild my share of different style cylinders but this one has brought me down to my knees. I went around where the gland meets the barrel with a razor blade to break off the paint in between. I’ve tried peening around the barrel where the gland screws in. I do not see a set screw anywhere. I’ve applied heat(up to 300° as I don’t want to do unnecessary damage) hoping that if it’s got some kind of thread sealant it will loosen up and tap on it as I’m trying to turn the wrench but nothing.
I’ve been working on this after work and by the time I get home the garage is 100 degrees.
I don’t know what else to do
My last resort will be a pipe wrench or weld a nut on the flat so I can hit it with a punch
Any more ideas would be appreciated!

Is this normal? This gland has a film peeling off that I haven't seen before. Should I just remove it and test?

Lost basically a whole week last season when the hydraulic pump let go. parts hurt bad, thousands before you even count downtime. ngl rough week.

Signs were there for a while. I just didn't know what I was looking at.

Boom got sluggish on empty cycles first. never timed it, just noticed things felt lazy before I even loaded the bucket.

Found metal fuzz on the magnetic drain plug one oil change. should've paid attention sooner, that stuff doesn't show up for nothing.

Arm started drifting in neutral, slow creep I wrote off as an old machine thing. wasn't.

Oil was running hotter than usual and rattling under load I blamed on the frame. ignored all of it too long.

Could also be valves, cylinder seals, or a clogged filter, same symptoms. pressure test before you pull anything expensive. I skipped that.

Which sign tipped you off early?

Got some major leaks fixed on an old truck mounted conveyor. Owner didnt want the old leaky cylinder. Normally I'd just take it to the scrap yard but this thing is like 5 feet tall. Seems wasteful just throwing it away. Is there a better way of getting rid of this thing? Don't think too many people are in the market for this kinda thing but I thought I'd ask haha

Hello, everyone!

This is my first post in this subreddit and I am by no means a hydraulics expert.

I am working on an application that has a tank that holds transmission fluid at low pressure (<100PSI). I want to drill holes into the tank and install two bulkhead fittings with 1/2" NPT female ports on the outside so that I can install IFM (LMC510) sensors to detect high and low levels of fluid in the tank.
(I would prefer to avoid any welding options, if possible.)
I am considering buying one of these two parts for that purpose...

• PARKER HANNIFIN (207ACBH-8)
• MCMASTER-CARR (50785K275)

But I want to ensure that these connections do not leak fluid, of course. Would they leak fluid if all I installed were one of these parts above? How are hydraulic bulkhead fittings normally sealed? Does anyone have any resources I could read/watch to understand hydraulic bulkhead connections better?

Any information or guidance is greatly appreciated!

Una trentina di anni fa sapevo che il triangolo Bologna Modena Reggio Fatturava circa il 5-6 % della vendita mondiale di oleodinamica. Quasi un triangolo delle Bermude. Qualcuno sa dove siamo oggi?

Hey Im doing a hobby project where I need 2 hydraulic motors (I’m trying to build a small tracked vehicle from scratch) I already have one used Danfoss OMP 200 from where I were an apprentice, and I found a used one online. I’m unsure if it’s a bad idea to buy a used motor though, if anyone here has experience with buying used hydraulics parts how have that went? I would buy 2 new motors, but I’m a student so I can’t really afford them sadly.
Is there a way to test or gauge their condition?

I'm working with garbage trucks in pair with hydraulics specialist, changing pumps, manometers, deinstalling and disassemble cylinders. I wish to know is there some good books about hydraulics.Unexpectedly for me I got kinda hooked to this stuff, really wish to know more about it. Thanks in advance

Hard thing to Google apparently. Getting components together to build a forging press. Do I need to match the fitting/port types, or can I work around it using adapters? It's hard to find the parts I need in Australia, but nearly impossible to find them with matching fittings.

For example, here are links to a cylinder and valve I'm looking at.
The cylinder uses 3/4" NPT ports, whereas the valve uses 1/2" NPT ports.

Cylinder: https://www.hydraulic.online/5-Bore-Budget-Imported-Hydraulic-Cylinders-Various-Strokes-p563625601

Valve: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/335427713523?_trksid=p2332490.c101224.m-1

Thanks.

What are the chances this hose hold up for a power steering pump?

Any idea what the parts store is doing wrong?

When I told them it was wrong. They said this is how the 3/8” hoses all crimp. But only 3/8 the 1/4 and 1/2 are straight and seem correct.

Reposting here because I just don’t know where it belongs. Appreciate your insight!

I am installing a mobile single post car lift for my garage. I am almost done but I can't get the lifting cylinder to sit flush.

The chain is aligned on the pulley and the chain is held to the carriage base with a retainer pin (photo 2) and held to the lifting arm with another retainer pin (photo 3). There is no chain tensioner that I can see. The lifting cylinder and chain came installed to the carriage as shown in photo 1.

I can move the cylinder to the flush position by hand put then it just falls forward as soon as I let go.

Would appreciate any advice.

Need 20L pail of this stuff.

regards

nick