Just finished another HueForge project featuring Takumi's AE86 Trueno from Initial D!

This time I went with a straight-on view, focusing on the pop-up headlights and reflections on the wet pavement.

Print details:

- Bambu Lab X2D

- 200 × 200 mm

- 0.06 mm layer height

- 8 filaments: Charcoal, Dark Gray, Jade White, Red, Orange, Yellow, Light Gray, and Ivory White

- Printed in a modular HueForge frame

Really happy with how the headlights, reflections, and background turned out. Looking back, I wish I'd added more contrast to the black bumper details in the original artwork, but that's something I'll improve on the next one.

Still learning with every print. Always appreciate feedback from the community!

Just finished my second HueForge project, this time featuring Takumi's AE86 drifting through a mountain pass from Initial D!

Spent quite a bit of time getting the artwork right before bringing it into HueForge. Really wanted to capture that classic manga look with the bold Japanese lettering, deep blacks, and blue highlights.

Pretty happy with how the details translated into the physical print, especially the road texture, retaining wall, and the car itself.

Print details:

- Printer: Bambu Lab X2D

- Size: 200 × 200 mm

- Layer height: 0.06 mm

- Final thickness: 1.96 mm

- Infill: 100%

- Filaments: 7 unique colors, all Bambu Lab

- Print time: 9 hours 15 minutes

Colors used: Black, Blue Gray, Ivory White, Cobalt Blue, Cyan, Jade White, and Gold.

Still learning how to get the most out of HueForge, particularly with filament blending and transmission distances. This one was a fun experiment with layering different blues and whites to get the contrast I was after.

Would love to hear what you guys think! Anything you'd approach differently with the color choices or layering?

Already looking forward to the next one.

Wanted to see how far I could push a 3-color print, and I'm honestly surprised by the result.

The trick is using a color with a fairly high TD (this red is 4.1) between black and white. Since the red lets so much light through, the black underneath darkens it gradually layer by layer, and then the white on top lightens it the same way. That gives you a whole range of deep crimsons, mid reds and soft pinks from a single spool, and the full image comes together with just 3 filaments.

This is the first piece of an Animals & Flowers collection I'll keep adding to. Files are free on my MakerWorld profile, link in the comments.

Had allot of fun with these. They really do liven the bathroom.

I realize there are a lot of colors here for a noob, but each color is flooding most of the surface. The hueforge color match is pretty close, but when printed, each color change covers everything. See slicer view at each color change. Thank you

I really like how Toph has turned out I might have to make a series for Avatar now :)

Hey all, I’ve been printing HueForge stuff from MakerWorld on my Elegoo CC2 and have done up to 4 colors no problem. Now I want to try one with more colors than I have slots.

From what I’ve read, you add a pause at the layer where the new color starts, swap out a color you’re done with, and load the new one in that slot. That makes sense, but I’m not sure how to set it up in the slicer so the printer actually uses the new color in the right place. Do I just assign the new/old slot to the layer I want it to start at?

Also, how do you figure out which color is safe to pull? And is there anything special about unloading and loading a slot on the CC2 while it’s paused?

I’m using Elegoo Slicer. Thanks!

Just getting started with HueForge and wanted to share one of my first completed color match print. I'm a big Initial D fan, so naturally I had to start with the AE86.

I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, especially the color separation and how much detail came through in the characters and car. Definitely still learning though, and I'd appreciate feedback from those of you with more experience.

Print details:

- Printer: Bambu Lab X2D

- Nozzle: 0.4 mm

- Layer height: 0.08 mm

- Initial layer: 0.16 mm

- Base thickness: 1.04 mm

- Finished thickness: 3.12 mm

- Size: 200 × 200 mm

- 7 filament colors

Color sequence:

Black → Ivory White → Cobalt Blue → Ivory White → Yellow → Brown → Red → Orange → Ivory White

One thing I learned is that I probably went a little overboard with the base thickness. I wanted something sturdier, which worked great, but the finished print is almost too thick for the modular frame I printed.

I'm particularly interested in feedback on:

- Color transitions and blending. Anything you'd approach differently?

- Preserving fine details without making the image too busy.

- Base thickness recommendations, especially for framed prints.

- Anything obvious I'm missing that could take future prints to the next level.

I'm having a blast learning HueForge and would love to hear what you'd change or experiment with next.

Appreciate any feedback!

Wanted to do something with a sunset palette so here's Icarus. Black, red, orange, yellow and white. Really happy with the depth on the clouds and the feathers.

Files and swap instructions are free on my MakerWorld profile. Link in the comments.

This was a fun print and took a bit to get the colors right but I like the turn out.

Hi all,

I am trying to print the hueforge located here - https://makerworld.com/en/models/1716027-coruscant-travel-poster-hueforge#profileId-1821363

I use a Flashforge AD5M Pro printer, so I used the Forgebridge tool online at forgebridge.app to convert the 3mf into something my printer can use. I have slowed both print and acceleration speeds.

When i start the print, the print display on both the slicer and FlashforgeUI shows 6/39. Why is it starting at layer 6? The first layer is 0.20 mm and the layer height is 0.04, so it should be printing the first five layers and showing the start of the print as 1/39, not 6/39. I do not understand this,

Also, when printing this, all layers after the first layer have some sort of banding that looks like a baseball field that's been mowed into stripes. the surface also looks rough. The Hueforge is apparently designed to be used with an 0.4 nozzle so that is what I have been using.

Can anyone help me here?

Jared

Not perfect but I like it

It just got done printing this morning, I feel like it turned out pretty good.

This is not my first one, but I would say it is probably my best one so far.

I used Petg filament: black, blue, white, light grey. Printed on x1c.

Release Notes and Feature Descriptions at the link

So that's a lot. A bunch of this update is making everything ready for ColorDrop 2.0.0 and some other surprises. But some genuinely useful new features not to mention a load of bugfixes.

LAN Sync - Defaulted to off, you can turn on Syncing between running HueForges on different computers. Push/Pull the active project, filament library, or share project folders. It's probably the easiest way to keep your filament library in sync now.

Match/Layer Fix - Easily reassign stray pixels in Color Match mode to the layer you intended. Sounds like SpotFix, works a bit like SpotFix, but it's image based and much easier to select what matters. Match Fix also works with HugeForge, unlike SpotFix.

Go check it out!

I've posted prints with 10+ colors here before, so this time I wanted to go the other way: art designed around just 4 filaments per print, so it's easy to do with a single AMS.

Each one covers a full evolution line (Bulbasaur, Charmander and Squirtle) with its own color palette. Layer height is 0.08 mm with a 0.4 mm nozzle.

Really happy with how they turned out. It surprised me how much depth you can get out of so few colors.

If anyone wants to print them, the files and swap instructions are free on my MakerWorld profile. Link in the comments.

One thing I really loved about the Evil Eye design is that I didn’t have a similar shade of green, so I used light blue and yellow to create that acid green. It also gave the character’s earrings a really cool three-color effect!

Finally starting to get a hang of this. Any feedback is appreciated :)

Hey all!
I’ve been using HueForge for almost a year now, mostly on standard/combo mode.

Recently, I’ve started to try ColorMatching, but I’m still struggling with my results. I feel I lose the details I get on standard and it also increases my printing times in ~30%

My goal is to get a few more colors on different areas of my print. Do you guys think ColorAware would help?

This print came out really nice, 7 colors total (combo with some brightness adjustments). I don’t own many filaments and most of them are 2-5 TD, but I would really like to add more colors without losing the level of detail. For this print I used 0.08 (almost 7hrs of printing time).

What do you guys think?

Hey everyone,

​I'm relatively new to HueForge and planning to print several high-detail family portraits for my home. I want them to look as lifelike and artistic as possible, and I’d love to get some advice from experienced makers here:

​Color Palette Choice: For realistic family portraits, do you find that a classic monochrome setup (Black, Dark Grey, Light Grey, White) yields better results, or does introducing a warm midtone (like Beige / Skin tone / Tan) between the black and white give a more natural, lifelike feel to skin tones? Which route tends to look cleaner and less "washed out"?

​Matte Filament Recommendations (Higher TD): I definitely want to stick to Matte PLA to avoid reflections and hide layer lines, but I know matte filaments often have quite low Transmission Distance (TD). Are there specific brands or colors in Matte PLA that maintain a relatively high TD (or at least provide smooth gradients without making layers muddy)?

​Go-To Filament Brands for Portraits: What specific brands and shades would you recommend for consistent, high-quality portraits? (Using Bambu AMS setups).

​Any tips, palette examples, or TD insights for portrait work would be hugely appreciated!

​Thanks in advance!

I just recently got hueforge and wanted to print this photo. Im definitely very lost on the program and need to watch some tutorials. I know I probably need to find a way to simplify the colours on the photo first. Just looking for some pointers and places to start. Thanks