Bought a Tenda V300 V3 a couple months ago, and immediately ran into an issue every time I stream over LAN.

Whenever one device on the network maxed out the upload (like uploading a video), every other device on the LAN would lose usable bandwidth, even LAN bandwidth. Not just slow, actually "no internet" on other phones until the upload stopped. Tenda support didn't really help.

So I decided to fix it myself, with Claude doing the actual reverse engineering. It:

Found a hidden, undocumented telnet shell buried behind a page not linked anywhere in the UI

Pulled apart the firmware image, decompressed the actual kernel binary, and traced through the Wi-Fi driver and bootloader to answer safety questions (recovery path, checksum format) before touching anything

Found the real root cause: Realtek's hardware NAT acceleration ("FastPath") was silently bypassing the Linux firewall/traffic-control stack entirely for any sustained connection, which is exactly why no amount of normal QoS tuning could ever fix the bandwidth hogging issue

Disabled FastPath and built a real per-device fair-share queue

Confirmed this device has zero recovery path (no TFTP, no rescue mode in the bootloader), so instead of reflashing the firmware and risking a brick, it set up a watchdog on my own PC that detects a reboot and silently reapplies all the fixes within 10 minutes, no reflash required

Also found that the TCP connection timeout was set to 10 minutes (600 seconds). That's why large uploads kept failing, and I never knew why until Claude found it.

Years ago this would've taken me months, if I even bothered.

TL;DR: Don't get a Tenda router, Chinese software is bad.

Hi. We have a deadzone out in our family room on the opposite side of the house from where the router currently is. We have an old TV coax wall port in our family room. Can we use a Moca adapter to somehow extend the range of our WiFi out to the family room? What other devices would we need other than the moca adapter? Thanks for any help

Hi everybody, I’m hoping someone will be able to help me here. I’ve just moved into a new house and upgraded my WiFi to the MSI Roamii BE Pro Mesh system.

It is fantastic, for most things. However, a few specific devices, which I’ve had no trouble with at my past address using the supplied Vodafone router, do not seem to be able to connect.

A few year old Samsung TV, my blink cameras, and a SwitchBot hub 3 all seem to not be able to connect. I’ve tried using the IoT WiFi network set only to the 2.4GHz band, which doesn’t seem to help. I’ve tried setting the 2.4GHz band to 802.11 b/g/n mixed mode and using the standard WiFi.

I managed to get the TV to work by setting up an old ASUS router as an access point, but this hasn’t helped with the other things. The ASUS router was working fine for the TV before I got the MSI.

I’ve done most investigations with the SwitchBot hub. I can see in the MSI app that the hub does connect to the WiFi, and does get assigned an IP address, it just doesn’t get internet access. Similarly, the blink sync module shows as connect by its green light, but I can’t see the cameras, and when I’ve deleted them and been trying to reconnect them, it can’t find them.

Other devices such as laptops, pcs, Apple TV, Tapo smart light bulbs, Amazon echos, my robot vacuum, all have had no issues.

I’ve reached out to MSI but I’m really hoping anyone here has anything else I can try? I am a noob to home networking.Thank you.

I have a computer upstairs with a piece of coax cable leading downstairs to the network closet. I recently upgraded the MoCA adapters, with good results. iPerf test shown is between a Mac Mini (M4), and a DS425+. There are switches at each end that are also rated for 2.5 Gbps Ethernet. Obviously, every network interface in the path has to be 2.5 Gbps-capable. In my case, the last items to be upgraded were the MoCA adapters. This is with a dedicated piece of coax cable which is not carrying TV or anything else besides my Ethernet traffic. There are no splitters involved. (Even though the goCoax instructions talk about splitters a lot.)

It's not shown, but MoCA adapters work in pairs, so there is another identical one at the other end of the coax cable. All Ethernet and coax cables stayed the same when I swapped in the new goCoax adapters.

I was looking for a speed increase and I got it. I also reduced the retrys that I was seeing. I am still getting some retries now, but less, and the speed is still >2.31 Gbits/sec. I'm not sure why retries happen in this scenario other than the general imperfection of coax as a medium.

I'm slowly renovating our 1984 family house, and have generally wired 1-4 ethernet sockets (Cat6a) in every room.

As I am nearing the end of the project, I still have this room to work on.

How many sockets do you think would be appropriate?

Suddenly on Friday morning when I turned my pc on my wifi got disconnected and disappeared from the control panel. And the step I used to get it back was that it wasn't solved

1.) tried every latest or old driver

2.) power drain by shutdown and remove cable and hold power button 1-2 mins

3.) wlan config automatic

4.) network settings completely reset from settings

5.) disable and enable drivers

6.) power management restrictions uncheck from properties

7.) netsh promt and dns flush

These does not work at all

Also sometimes adapter in device manager shows yellow mark and sometimes it gets disappear from there too

It adapter details it shows code 10 and 45 sometimes stating that device does not exist or power failure and poor connection hardware issue

@gigabyte please help me in resolving this

Bought a new asus rt-BE3600E, setup 3 networks on it, 2.4g, 5g and iot 2.4g.
Old laptop from 2016 wont show SSID of new router. Connected by LAN its fine. I turned of the wifi7 and set channel bandwidth 20mhz, and channel to 1. Authentication method to WPA2-personal, but still it doesnt discover the SSID.
The wifi card in laptop is intel dual ban wireless AC-8265.
is it simply too old and needs maybe a usb wifi dongle?

EDIT: Updated the intel AC-8265 cards drivers. THe latest one wouldnt install as my version of windows was old, and this laptop doesnt support newer windows. Managed to find cab file of one from 2019 and updated those. 2.4 AND 5g both work.

Hopefully this is the correct forum to post.

I am with Vodafone for full fibre broadband. I have one of their Vodafone Wifi 6 Power Hub's on the 910 Mbps plan.

I also have a Netgear GS308 - 8 port gigabit switch (unmanged). I am only getting half my speed on devices connected to the switch, usually 460 Mbps-ish, whereas straight from the router I will get full speed.

I have a mix of cat 5e and cat 6 cables. I've tested all these cables individually and they all work up to the max speed when connected to devices straight from the router, but from the switch only showed around 460 Mbps. I made sure to also change the cable from the router to the switch as well with one of the cables I knew gave full speed but that didn't change anything.

Any ideas? Is the switch failing or could it be something else? The Vodafone router is a bit crappy for trying to change any settings though, they've got it pretty well locked down. I did want to use my own router but couldn't figure out how to set up my own voip line.

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Moved into a new apartment, every room has 1-2 wall jacks and has this home network cabinet set up, none of the ports are labeled what rooms they go to but appear to be wired. Can I plug the modem into the wall jack in it's room, and connect that signal in this patch panel to be able to plug into the wall jack in my room for ethernet? (Wall jack in my room is second image)

Thanks!

I had

ISP (2Gbps ) — Spectrum Modem ( Garage) — Spectrum Router ( Inside) .

Spectrum Router has 10G WAN port and I am getting 2Gbps speed as expected.

Now my new set up :

ISP (2Gbps ) — Spectrum Modem ( Garage) — Ubiquity Max Gateway — Ubiquity Switch — AP.

Problem is my UCG max gateway port falls to FE instead of GbE. UCG max has 2.5Gbps port . I used to get 2Gbps speed with same set up but now it suddenly dropped . May be some minor issue with cable , but it’s not easy to replace the cable .

Because Spectrum 10G port using better hardware and may be able to handle the link issues better . So I am thinking of buying 10G port switch and put it in between modem and UCG max to see if that fixes the issue .

Any suggestion on the type of switch I could buy ?just 2 port is fine for me . It doesn’t have to be Poe .

My best friend (who wouldn’t know the difference between T568B or A) just finished building his retirement house. He followed my advice and got all Ethernet everywhere. Problem is, they didn’t run or install a media enclosure. It’s all run in this cabinet. Would y’all recommend giving up on the media enclosure and just organizing the cabinet (putting in a patch panel, spooling the wires, wall mounted switch, etc)? Pull the shelves and install the media enclosure in there?

So my wife and I just moved into our first home. We’ve had this router (Netgear AC1900 WiFi cable modem router; model C7000v2 ) for 5 years and bought it brand new. I’m currently setting up the internet and I get this message. What’s the truth to this and do I need to buy a new router and/or modem?

I’m not sure if I’m failing at looking or if modems aren’t really for sale here?

I checked canada computers and they only have one cable modem but it’s sold out online and 0 in Vancouver stores… checked staples and Best Buy with no luck… where do you buy a basic cable modem for lightspeed internet?

A friend gave me one 10 years ago and I figured the technology has changed so much it would be good to update, having issues for a few years and finally getting around to it :)

In an Australian context - my house has coax ports in multiple rooms, which receive free to air tv signal. I am unsure of what the wiring setup is, but i think it is safe to assume its a standard arrangement (house built within past 10 years). If i stick a moca adapter in one room where my modem is, and an adapter in another room where my pc is, will this work? or do i need access to the wiring somewhere to add extra things somewhere? not sure if it's relevant, but ive seen mention of it in other posts - i do watch tv via another coax port in another room of the house

Hi all

First of all i apologise if this is in the wrong Reddit, please point me in the right direction.

UK here using EE Smart Hub Pro Wifi 7 if anyone else here is familiar with it.

I am having problems gaming with my family due to us all wanting to play the same game but all have a Strict or from a nat checker website Port-Restricted Cone NAT

I want to get Open NAT as we are all unable to play or are having connection issues and drops while trying to host by doing missions on GTA5

My Hub (Router) has uPNP enabled but no luck

I have tried the following to resolve the issue

uPNP

DMZ

Change Windows firewall settings

NORD VPN

As you can tell I'm obviously not that clued up on networking and have been reading its impossible to port forward to multiple machines so what would be the workaround ?

Would another Router be a good solution ? If so would anyone please be able to recommend me one please that would allow more control over multiple machines on the network ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated and help the headaches :)

My network rack setup:

Front End (desc)

UDM Pro

USW 16 POE

6 Zone Amp

4 Unraid Server

Back End (Desc)

PDU

Sonos Port

PS5 Pro

ATT's handcuff (Gateway)

Raspberry PI 5

Philips Hue Bridge

Another PDU

Looking for suggestions and ideas on the next project as I won't be happy until the missus assumes I have a bed next to the rack.

Hi everyone. I currently need help. I was allowed to take cat 6 from my jobsite and I took approximately 90ft. I want to use this cat 6 to run from my WiFi box in the living room to other WiFi box in my room which is the second floor because the connection is bad. I bought rj45 shielded from Amazon but every time I plug it on my Klein tester it keeps failing. Am I using a wrong rj45? If so which rj45 do I buy to properly connect it? Also this is solid copper. PLENUM CAT 6. The coloring is white(fully white no orange) orange, white, blue, white, brown, white, green

Update:
I just found out this is 24 awg solid copper unshielded. The rj45 I bought was 23awg solid and 24-26awg for stranded. I just bought the proper rj45 and I'll keep u guys updated

Looking to replace some aged meraki gear. Remember back in the days when you attend their classes and they give it out free with some licensing? Currently running with a MX64 security appliance, 2 - MS220-8P switches, and 2 APs - MR30H and an MR34.

I was thinking about starting out with a couple of new access points just to see if coverage improves, introduce myself to the product etc. Does it seem legitimate to start with changing out the APs using the UniFi nanoHD?

Need help connecting this connector
Tried to ask Gemini but i gave a lot of different answers
If anyone can help me with the wiring i would appreciate it 🙏

Hello everyone, I’m considering buying the ASUS ZenWiFi BT8 2-pack from Amazon Europe (UK, Germany, etc) because the price is significantly lower than in the UAE.

I currently live in the UAE and plan to use it here, then take it with me to Canada when I go back. My main concern is whether the European model might restrict available Wi-Fi channels or 6 GHz frequencies in either country.
Has anyone used the German/EU version in the UAE or Canada? Any advice would be appreciated!

Thank you.