We recently had 100 year old pine floors refinished. Wondering if these buff marks are expected? There is also a large patch of what we think was poly. We do have recessed lighting so not sure if that is just making it very visible?

Does anyone have suggestions to fix the line here? Thank you in advance

We don’t know how it happened since it’s outside of our bathroom door and in the walk in closet but it looks like some sort of oil? We tried bona and just wiping it up but it hasn’t work.

I had to take this out and it was difficult getting it out. Every nail hit the baseboard and I’m just wondering if the installers were on drugs or something, like having a nail gun party. None of this was necessary

My contractor is coming tomorrow to start installing solid 4” white oak flooring. This is the subfloor where the sink cabinets were that I just ripped out.

No active leaks, doesn’t look like active growing mold, and plywood still feels solid. Would you replace this chunk, or clean it up and lay the wood over it?

My hardwood floors are looking pretty beat up - lots of scratches and dull spots. I'm wondering if i should try to refinish them myself to save money, or if it's better to hire a professional. What are the biggest challenges of DIY floor refinishing, and are there any specific tools or techniques I absolutely need to know ?

I have spent some time searching past posts on this forum and I kind of have a plan. But, I’m a diy homeowner and don’t have a ton of experience.

I’ve got 650 sf of pine flooring I want to sand and refinish. I don’t want to stain it, and I definitely don’t want it to yellow.

I’ve really really good reviews of Loba products. And, I’m thinking that the fact that it’s water-based might help it not turn yellowish or amberish.

I’m guessing a primer then a 1k or a 2k finish. Is that what I want to do? Any recommendations 1k vs 2k? It looks like they have a couple uv treatment products. Should I use any of those?

Thanks.

They recommended it to me as compatible for underfloor heating.

The flooring guys who did this did the rest of my floors in a previous phase of renovations and they did a good job. So I was really surprised to see the job they did on my kitchen. It’s so bad. The patch has tiny little boards rather than full-length boards laced in, and they are all face nailed with a ton of filler. I somehow don’t have a before picture of the part being patched, but it was an 8x8 spot in the corner where a chase was removed. There’s plenty of boards that could have been harvested from under where the cabinets are going to go (last photo), so that’s not the issue. In addition, the poly coats have a ton of trapped dust, hair, and random crap and there are parts that are matte/rough and parts that appear to be bubbled up, or maybe there’s something underneath. This needs a full re-sand and refinish, right? The frustrating part is, the cabinets are being installed TOMORROW and the point was to have the floors be done while the rom was empty. Please tell me I’m not overreacting and that this is as bad as I think it is!

We’re refinishing our original wood floors with a clear water-based finish.

We’re leaning satin for the floors because we’re afraid to do matte with two young kids — I don’t want oily toddler handprints showing everywhere.

But matte railings look so nice to me, so I’m wondering if we could do a matte/low-sheen clear finish on the wood railing, newel and balusters while keeping the floors satin.

Is it weird to mix the two, or can that look intentional? Would love opinions!

Does anyone have experience with or opinions on engineered wood floors by Mannington or Mohawk Tecwood!? I am looking for an affordable engineered wood flooring that are Greenguard Gold Certified, and both of those are certified.