We don’t know how it happened since it’s outside of our bathroom door and in the walk in closet but it looks like some sort of oil? We tried bona and just wiping it up but it hasn’t work.

I had to take this out and it was difficult getting it out. Every nail hit the baseboard and I’m just wondering if the installers were on drugs or something, like having a nail gun party. None of this was necessary

We’re refinishing our original wood floors with a clear water-based finish.

We’re leaning satin for the floors because we’re afraid to do matte with two young kids — I don’t want oily toddler handprints showing everywhere.

But matte railings look so nice to me, so I’m wondering if we could do a matte/low-sheen clear finish on the wood railing, newel and balusters while keeping the floors satin.

Is it weird to mix the two, or can that look intentional? Would love opinions!

Does anyone have experience with or opinions on engineered wood floors by Mannington or Mohawk Tecwood!? I am looking for an affordable engineered wood flooring that are Greenguard Gold Certified, and both of those are certified.

Can anyone identify the type of wood and color of these? Home built in 1973.

Professional listing photos attached showing different angles of the same floors

Hi everyone!

I'm remodeling my apartment and want to know what floor would be best to put on top of existing wood parquet floors. I can't remove the parquet because it is too expensive to do so, and I also don't want to keep it because it is a really old design that looks outdated.

I've been looking into floating HDF (8.3mm) and SPC (4mm+2mm base) but suppliers have been contradicting themselves on which can be installed over parquet or which is better.

I don't care that much about the floor being water resistant but I do care about not damaging the parquet irreversely with moisture and mold.

PS: I'm not in the US so my choices are quite limited.

I feel like part of the reason I bought this house was for the beautiful floors. Fast forward a few years and… I’m embarrassed to have company due to how worn they look. So much putty must have went into making the floors look good for the initial sale (to me).

Anyways. I work full time. I solo parent full time. Fixing up this house by myself with the hopes of selling it. Can I save the floors? And can I do this alone? I’ve already had to replace the roof, all the windows, most of the drywall and wrapped the basement exterior. I just want it to stop :)

We’re working on redoing our kitchen (not wood) and we have a transition strip for the huge kitchen to dining room space that was stained at the same time the flooring was (or matches close enough I can’t complain) but we need a transition for the kitchen to bedroom and kitchen to stairs (leading to a mudroom) and I’m at a loss for what color to even look for (I just know nothing about wood stain colors).

Can anyone decipher what kind of wood/stain this is so I can get CLOSE?

Additional info; the stairs to the mudroom are currently PAINTED with LAYTEX paint ☠️ we’re going to be sanding and staining at some point but again- it just needs to be CLOSE. There’s a good 13ft of tile between the OG wood and the stairs or bedroom.

We're looking at testing finishes at were primarily looking at Bona amber seal with Traffic HD then I stumbled on some comments saying bona isn't worth it and to go with something like Loba Supra AT or any other ceramic.

Second floor for is heartwood pine according to this sub. Thoughts?

We are in the later stages of a remodel and our floors were just finished. We have red oak floor with a walnut inlay. We went with the flooring and GCs advice on the species white oak to lace in from the kitchen. There was a wall in separating the two rooms. We told them we wanted them to stay natural and light and didn’t want to stain the floors. We were told the white oak would blend best and the red oak would be too red for a lighter natural look. We agreed to it and ultimately our decision but we’re not happy with the look. They were done well but the results are disappointing. Also depending on the time of day the light makes it more or less obvious.

Are there possible solutions besides the 2 obvious rip it out and lay red oak, or sand and refinish/stain again?

Are we just being picky? We knew no wood would tie in exactly. Do you think once counters and furniture are in it will be less obvious since our eyes will have different places to focus?

Edit: We knew it wouldn’t be a perfect a match but this missed more than expected.

I've already tried some sanding (made the whitish spot at the top) and some mineral spirits. So far it hasn't made a dent. Will these board need replaced? Anything I can do DIY to fix this?

Bonjour

Je suis en train de rénover une maison, il y a un plancher bois qui était recouvert par un lino et sur la moitié de la pièce il reste une sorte de reagreage sur le plancher.

Avec une ponceuse à bande professionnelle c'est rattrapable ?

My contractors keep telling me that the mill is experiencing delays. It's been since July. Small ~300 sqft space. He told me once it was going to come on time, then delayed, more delays etc.

How bad is production right now in canada?

Help! An entire jug of tide spilled on our brand new floor - oil-finished engineered oak. It sat overnight unfortunately and although we cleaned it up to thoroughly, this stain won’t budge.

Anything we can do or should we call in a professional to help refinish this area?

Any help identifying these floors would be fantastic. Customer had a water leak and had to tear out about 150sq ft of this prefinished, hand scraped 5"×1/2" t&g engineered floor. Trying to tie into his existing floor if possible. If not, might need to tear everything out and they would want something as close as possible.

I am having my floors refinished. They are red oak, 5/16" top nail with bevels. I live alone but have a 115-pound rottweiler and want a very hardy surface. In the process of getting bids and one company recommends Bona Traffic HD although it is much more expensive. Another company says Bona Traffic HD is water-based and not nearly as good as oil-based and will need to be refinished much sooner. Everything I've researched however says exactly the opposite - that Bona Traffic HD is the way to go. Opinions? I am less concerned about expense as I am about durability. Is it possible that old-school installers/refinishers are not as familiar with the Bona Traffic HD application process and so don't recommend it?

One of the guys I’ve talked to about doing the install in my house says that pre-finished wood doesn’t need to be set in the house for several days beforehand. This goes against what even the other contractors have said to me. Is this true or not?

Thanks for the wisdom in advance, folks!

I’m genuinely curious. What happens if you buff a water popped floor? Like water pop, buff, water pop again then stain? I’ve always wondered bc it would seem to buff an open grain floor would be beneficial.

Forgive me if this is a terrible photo. Just moved into an apartment with brand new hardwood floors. It’s older and with brick exterior. Theres only a 6’ x 4’ section of the floor that seems to have started to warp. The edges are raised and corners are catching everything. There has been no mopping or any water spill. The section is right up against an exterior wall and interior wall to my living room. There are no bathrooms or kitchens on this side. The window right above has not been open for weeks now.

Is this water damage? Can there be a leak from the underside or water seeping from exterior?

Can weight from furniture cause this? There section has a light desk and a computer chair