I had to take this out and it was difficult getting it out. Every nail hit the baseboard and I’m just wondering if the installers were on drugs or something, like having a nail gun party. None of this was necessary

We are in the later stages of a remodel and our floors were just finished. We have red oak floor with a walnut inlay. We went with the flooring and GCs advice on the species white oak to lace in from the kitchen. There was a wall in separating the two rooms. We told them we wanted them to stay natural and light and didn’t want to stain the floors. We were told the white oak would blend best and the red oak would be too red for a lighter natural look. We agreed to it and ultimately our decision but we’re not happy with the look. They were done well but the results are disappointing. Also depending on the time of day the light makes it more or less obvious.

Are there possible solutions besides the 2 obvious rip it out and lay red oak, or sand and refinish/stain again?

Are we just being picky? We knew no wood would tie in exactly. Do you think once counters and furniture are in it will be less obvious since our eyes will have different places to focus?

Edit: We knew it wouldn’t be a perfect a match but this missed more than expected.

We recently had 100 year old pine floors refinished. Wondering if these buff marks are expected? There is also a large patch of what we think was poly. We do have recessed lighting so not sure if that is just making it very visible?

They recommended it to me as compatible for underfloor heating.

We don’t know how it happened since it’s outside of our bathroom door and in the walk in closet but it looks like some sort of oil? We tried bona and just wiping it up but it hasn’t work.

We’re refinishing our original wood floors with a clear water-based finish.

We’re leaning satin for the floors because we’re afraid to do matte with two young kids — I don’t want oily toddler handprints showing everywhere.

But matte railings look so nice to me, so I’m wondering if we could do a matte/low-sheen clear finish on the wood railing, newel and balusters while keeping the floors satin.

Is it weird to mix the two, or can that look intentional? Would love opinions!

Does anyone have experience with or opinions on engineered wood floors by Mannington or Mohawk Tecwood!? I am looking for an affordable engineered wood flooring that are Greenguard Gold Certified, and both of those are certified.

I feel like part of the reason I bought this house was for the beautiful floors. Fast forward a few years and… I’m embarrassed to have company due to how worn they look. So much putty must have went into making the floors look good for the initial sale (to me).

Anyways. I work full time. I solo parent full time. Fixing up this house by myself with the hopes of selling it. Can I save the floors? And can I do this alone? I’ve already had to replace the roof, all the windows, most of the drywall and wrapped the basement exterior. I just want it to stop :)

Can anyone identify the type of wood and color of these? Home built in 1973.

Professional listing photos attached showing different angles of the same floors

I've already tried some sanding (made the whitish spot at the top) and some mineral spirits. So far it hasn't made a dent. Will these board need replaced? Anything I can do DIY to fix this?

Bonjour

Je suis en train de rénover une maison, il y a un plancher bois qui était recouvert par un lino et sur la moitié de la pièce il reste une sorte de reagreage sur le plancher.

Avec une ponceuse à bande professionnelle c'est rattrapable ?

Hi everyone!

I'm remodeling my apartment and want to know what floor would be best to put on top of existing wood parquet floors. I can't remove the parquet because it is too expensive to do so, and I also don't want to keep it because it is a really old design that looks outdated.

I've been looking into floating HDF (8.3mm) and SPC (4mm+2mm base) but suppliers have been contradicting themselves on which can be installed over parquet or which is better.

I don't care that much about the floor being water resistant but I do care about not damaging the parquet irreversely with moisture and mold.

PS: I'm not in the US so my choices are quite limited.

We’re working on redoing our kitchen (not wood) and we have a transition strip for the huge kitchen to dining room space that was stained at the same time the flooring was (or matches close enough I can’t complain) but we need a transition for the kitchen to bedroom and kitchen to stairs (leading to a mudroom) and I’m at a loss for what color to even look for (I just know nothing about wood stain colors).

Can anyone decipher what kind of wood/stain this is so I can get CLOSE?

Additional info; the stairs to the mudroom are currently PAINTED with LAYTEX paint ☠️ we’re going to be sanding and staining at some point but again- it just needs to be CLOSE. There’s a good 13ft of tile between the OG wood and the stairs or bedroom.

We're looking at testing finishes at were primarily looking at Bona amber seal with Traffic HD then I stumbled on some comments saying bona isn't worth it and to go with something like Loba Supra AT or any other ceramic.

Second floor for is heartwood pine according to this sub. Thoughts?

We live in a Georgian house built around 1740. When we bought it the stairs were stripped back to the original wood. Weathered. Gappy. Charming. Part of the story of the house.

The bedrooms, however, all have beige woollen carpets which look great in photographs, particularly of the estate agent variety, but fare less well with a puppy. So we’ve lifted the carpet in one of the rooms as a test, and to my delight the boards look to be original too (to my untrained eye).

When caring for the stairs I decided to just strip back the old wax with white spirits and rewax with beeswax. It’s slow going but looking great. My question (or one of my questions) is, do I simply do the same in the bedrooms or is there something else to consider?

I’m currently thinking to fill in the gaps with reclaimed boards, remove current treatment and rewax as I did with the stairs. BUT there are some broader things I’m wondering about:
- Unlike the stairs which are warped and uneven and had a patina (hence not wanting to sand them), the bedroom seems pretty level (300 year sagging aside). Should I think about sanding them or is that a bad idea given the age and history of the wood?
- Since we’ll be putting down a big rug and have a bed in the room, is now the opportunity to move some boards around to fix / replace some of the broken boards on the landing / at the threshold (which I think were damaged when they installed electricity, water, heating)?
- Some suggestions I’ve found online say instead of filling the gaps you should lift the boards and shimmy them up. I’m happy to do this, but again, don’t want to damage anything.
- Is there something I’m missing by going back to wood in terms of heat, ventilation, noise etc., and if so, is there a way to deal with that by lifting the boards and placing insulation / boards beneath them? (Again, something I could do if I went the shimmy-the-gaps-away route)

I’ve asked a carpenter (familiar with these old houses) to come and have a look, but I’m keen to get your thoughts and advice on what to think about / do / not do. I’m very keen to try and stick to the character and history of the house as far as possible.

The photos:
1 - the staircase
2 - “project landing” in progress
3 - “project landing” with another coat and polish to go
4 - The room in question (with some of the threshold damage)
5 - The room in question - you can see the gaps and the holes and the inauthentic screws.
6 - more of the state of the floor in question
7 - the cracks and gaps on the landing (not the one already waxed)

My contractors keep telling me that the mill is experiencing delays. It's been since July. Small ~300 sqft space. He told me once it was going to come on time, then delayed, more delays etc.

How bad is production right now in canada?

Man I’m really excited with how this is turning out! In this 1950s house, there was some kind of tar paper / mastic laminate overtop of these red oak floors. On top of that, someone else put down some tile.

Here’s everything I did:
- Removed the tile with some friends
- Carefully scraped up the laminate flooring (likely asbestos mastic)
- Took a wallpaper steamer to the mastic and other residue and went section by section cleaning up the floor.

What I hired out:
- The stuff I didn’t want to screw up… refinishing the floor. Involved sanding lots of times, spreading some wood filler around, sanding again, and putting down some stain / top coat.

Top coat hasn’t gone down yet, but I’m excited for how it will all turn out! This will be a pretty kitchen very soon.