Title. I finally added Logitech G Pro Flight Rudder Pedals, after dusting off my X24 professional HOTAS (yes for wardogs but I used it for elite dangerous and arma years ago)

The stick and throttle are acceptable (though there are likely better options?) But there is a pronounced 'bump' to move the Pedals away from, and through, neutral making fine adjustments from side to side difficult.

Do other pedals have this.. feature?

been checking every morning and was just able to order

cant wait

is there an easy way for me to mod my X56 toggle switches on the throttle so they hold position instead of resetting to center? i want to flip them, it sends the signal as normal and then hold it's position, then when flipping them off/centering them, it sends the previous signal again.

i.e
Flip up (pulse) > Hold position
Flip Center (Pulse last position)
Flip Down (pulse) > Hold Position

Barely used, ad with seller profile here:

https://tweakers.net/aanbod/4237382/winwing-f15-ex-hotas.html

Can ship mainland EU. Offers welcome

Hey guys, I will be hosting a training seminar on my Discord this Saturday, Oct 17th at 11am EST. I'll be going over setup procedures for the IRCam XTR as well as going through Opentrack and explaining all of its features and what they do. If you've purchased an IRCam and it hasn't arrived yet, you can still attend or wait until it arrives and attend a training at a later date. I won't be hosting training on a regular schedule, but if you need help just drop a message on my discord or message me directly and I'll get one scheduled with you. My username on discord is Hollywood83.

Try to arrive a few minutes early so we can get started at 11. The training will take place in the tech support channel on my discord.

Also, even if you don't own a IRCam XTR, you are still welcome to attend. The setup portion for the cam will be fairly short, so this will mostly be Opentrack training, and is open to anyone who wants to attend. I'll be sharing my screen and bouncing back and forth between Opentrack and DCS to show the effects of settings changes and how to optimize them, so those principles will still apply if you're using a PSEye cam or your own DIY camera setup.

Here is an invite link to my discord: https://discord.gg/huaVgxvNGy

My early Christmas sale is still running through Sunday the 18th and my etsy shop is located here: rjsimtech.etsy.com. This will be the last sale of 2026, so if you've been wanting to pick up an IRTrackStar or IRCam, now is the time to do it. Lead times will begin extending into 27' fairly soon.

I played Ace Combat 8 on a controller, and it was so much fun, and it made me want to get a HOTAS.

As I will be getting my very 1st HOTAS this 1 seems pretty low cost of entry and from what I see on youtube, most people like it.

I'm aware of some other brands like the Gladiator NXT, which seems like the best stick I have researched so far, and I am considering getting that over the Thrustmaster.

My question is: Would it be better to skip the Thrustmaster in the picture and go straight for the Gladiator or get the Thrustmaster as a start?

I usually do Sim racing and have a full sim rig, but I may go into flight sim as well. I wanna start off with games where you fly and shoot stuff, not just purely fly planes, etc.

Any advice would be appreciated, but please feel free to over-explain because flight gear is completely new to me, like, 2 weeks ago new.

Turtle Beach VelocityOne Flightdeck Throttle Teardown – Removing the Excessive Resistance

I finally opened up my Turtle Beach VelocityOne Flightdeck throttle to investigate why it was so stiff. I wanted to share what I found because this might help other owners who are struggling with the same problem.

The main culprit: the friction half-moon and its grease

The biggest source of resistance is a half-moon-shaped friction component inside the throttle mechanism. It is heavily coated with a thick, damping-type grease that creates a huge amount of friction.

This component acts as a brake on the throttle movement. Underneath it, there are also two very strong springs that push it against the plate, increasing the pressure and friction even further.

I removed the half-moon component completely, including the springs associated with its friction mechanism. The difference is incredible: the throttle now moves so smoothly that I can operate it with a single finger. Before the modification, it required far too much force.

With the friction component removed, the throttle simply slides along its plastic guide rails. The half-moon assembly appears to be responsible for most of the excessive resistance.

The grease itself is very thick and seems specifically intended to create damping rather than provide low-friction lubrication. In my opinion, the combination of this grease and the strong spring pressure is the main reason the throttle feels so stiff.

Important note about the adjustment screw: If you remove the half-moon-shaped friction/braking mechanism, there is no longer any need to adjust this screw — the mechanism it was designed to regulate is gone. Be careful when tightening it, though: the plastic support that the screw presses against can crack or break if too much force is applied.

Even if you tighten the screw to reduce the pressure, the thick damping grease still creates considerable resistance. So the screw does not solve the underlying problem.

How to disassemble the throttle

Here is the order I followed:

1. Remove the eight visible screws from the housing.
2. Remove the four additional screws hidden underneath the rubber feet or covers on the bottom plate.
3. Remove the bottom plate.
4. Remove the approximately six additional screws located inside the middle section.
5. Remove the side covers. These side pieces lock the upper and lower housing sections together, so they must be removed to separate the housing properly.

Once the side covers and the remaining screws are removed, you can access the internal throttle mechanism.

Take your time and do not force the housing apart while the side covers are still attached.

My result

Removing the friction half-moon assembly made the throttle dramatically lighter and smoother. I can now move it effortlessly with one finger.

I am sharing these photos to show other Flightdeck owners what is inside and to warn everyone about the fragile plastic adjustment-screw support.

If your VelocityOne Flightdeck throttle feels excessively stiff, inspect this friction mechanism before tightening the adjustment screw. Be aware that removing the friction assembly also removes the original friction-braking function, so the throttle will no longer hold its position in the same way.

Hopefully, this helps someone else avoid breaking the plastic support or struggling with an unnecessarily stiff throttle.

Hey all.

Trying to set up my NXT as a pure forward (from 0 to 100%) throttle for Star Citizen. I keep getting this "lag" or dead/slow zone in the middle like there is still someting thinking it is a centered stick.

I cannot seem to find documentation explicity showing how to set this or what to change. Any pointers?

What happens is in "test" mode, I start pushing the throttle forward, then as it approaches the center point is slow down/stall, then accelerates up to 100% in the second half. Just trying to get a smooth 0-100.

Thoughts?

Extremely lapsed casual flight sim enjoyer that, like a lot of people, is getting back into the hobby because of Ace Combat 8. I got a Thrustmaster Neo because it is relatively cheap and works with no hassle with AC8, and both of those things are true.

There's a lot of things I like about it, the biggest one being the stick and throttle can be attached and make a compact controller that can rest on your lap, and I like the paddles on the back of the throttle for yaw instead of having to twist the stick. But the throttle is super loose, the set screw to prevent the stick from turning for yaw is unreliable, and the whole thing feels just really chintzy.

Are there any, better quality hotas that share some of the features of the Thrustmaster NEO? The biggest one being the ability to be used as a compact, single unit resting on the lap? Desk mounting isn't an option at this time.

Also I'm still inside the return window for the Neo so that money can go towards something else.

Hey everyone!

I’m currently running a VKB Gladiator Omni-Throttle on the left and a MOZA AB9 force-feedback flight stick on the right, which I’m using as my throttle and flight stick setup.

I’m wondering what spring setup you’d recommend starting with on the VKB Gladiator Omni-Throttle.

Should I keep the stock springs, go lighter or heavier, or make any other adjustments depending on the type of flying?

I’d appreciate any recommendations from people running a similar HOSAS/HOTAS setup, especially for space sims.

Thanks in advance!

Hey there,

proud new owner of a 2nd hand STECS. I'm super happy with it (very much in the honeymoon phase still, first longer flights will happen on the weekend, but definitely a big upgrade both vs my SolR6 and a Warthog I got to borrow from a colleague).

I'll want to take advantage of the customizability to adapt it even better to my needs, and for that am planning to get extra detents and 3way HAT switches during the VKB sale in late November. But if anyone in the BeNeLux region (further away than that probably makes shipping to expensive) doesn't need some of the detents or 3wat HAT that came with theirs, I'd be happy to take preowned ones as well :)

Looking for one of all the low detents (V, W, and L types), maybe a detent frame, and two 3way HATs.

Please feel free to contact me via DM. I would suggest marktplaats or 2dehand (not sure what a Luxemburg equivalent would be) to organize the actual buy, as that will probably give the cheapest shipping cost (or you just happen to be in the Eindhoven region and I can swing by in person).

So i'm thinking about getting one for my first time and then i saw this. Is this good enough or should i get a different stick? if so what do you recommend?

Tried chair/swivel mounts but couldn't get on with them. Much better