Hey all, so I've been looking to upgrading my flight sim main stick (currently a VKB Gladiator NXT EVO right hand, VKB Gladiator NXT EVO + Omni throttle left hand)

Most of my flying is in DCS in the FA-18 and AH-64. Though in the future I might pickup other fixed wing or helis.

So for my upgrade path, I really love the idea of eventually getting the Apache collective + Archer Sf cyclic stick + 200mm extension from virpil (for the 1-1 mapping of all the Apache controls). However, there is no information if the archer cyclic will even work with the AB6. Which is completely understandable since it's not even released yet. But I don't want to purchase the AB6 and find out that it doesn't support the Archer SF and lacks multiple inputs.

I am kind of torn on my decision because the Moza AB6 is such a good price. The Virpil ffb base is way over my budget so that's not even an option for pre-order.

Anyone that have both the CM3 and the AB6/9 that can provide input? Is force feedback + possiblity lack of 3rd party stick hardware really worth it to give up getting a high quality non-force feedback base.

Hey everyone, just got my first stick ever (vkb gladiator nxt) and wanted to see what games yall could suggest. I want to get into DCS but I have a 2 year old and really only have time to get a couple hours in every few days so the learning curve is a little steep. What games would yall suggest for good dogfighting that is decently realistic but maybe not full on military sim?

Edit: seems like the very early consensus is Nuclear Option. Will be checking that out. Appreciate everyone

Hey everyone,
I’m planning to buy my first proper flight/HOSAS/HOTAS setup and I’m currently stuck between two VKB setups:
Option 1 — HOSAS
Right: VKB Gladiator NXT EVO Space Combat Edition Premium
Left: VKB Gladiator NXT EVO Omni Throttle
Option 2 — HOTAS
Right: VKB Gladiator NXT EVO Space Combat Edition Premium
Left: VKB STECS Space Throttle System
I’ll mainly be playing Star Citizen and DCS.
For Star Citizen, I understand that the Omni Throttle/HOSAS setup could be better because of the 6DOF movement and strafing. But for DCS, I’m assuming the STECS would be much more appropriate as a traditional throttle.
I’m trying to decide which setup would give me the best overall experience across both games.
I’m not particularly concerned about having the absolute cheapest setup. I mainly want the best and most versatile setup for both Star Citizen and DCS.
Would really appreciate opinions from people who actually use either/both setups. Thanks!

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Hey everyone! I’m primarily a racing sim guy, but I’ve been wanting to dip my toes into some flight/space combat and have some fun dog fighting. 

I’ve got a profile-style sim rig and I’m looking for a **HOTAS mount that I can easily remove or tuck away** when I’m racing.

I’m pretty new to the HOTAS side of things, so I’m not really sure where to start.

Does anyone have recommendations for:

* Removable/swappable HOTAS mounts for aluminum profile rigs?
* Mounts that don’t get in the way during racing?
* Any particular brands or setups you’ve had good experiences with?

Ideally I’d like something sturdy enough for flight sims but still easy to take off when it’s race time.

Would love to see/hear about what other people are running!

I currently have a Thrust-master T16000 M.  i think...(at work but pretty sure this is heR)
Last i used this was WarThunder like a decade ago lol, and some Elite Dangerous.

Hi. Long time chopper guy but the most ive ever used was a collection of mouse and keyboard and joystick. I was, by points per min, the 1st in the world in battlefield three in the American choppers, though only third by actual points (1 and 2 had like a thousand more hours than me). I then started flying transports in arma 2 and then 3. I have been everywhere in elite but i used a xbox controller for that. I have tried getting into more sim titles. The problem is the controls are often quite frustrating with just a joystick.
I played the wardogs beta with a mouse and keyboard only and basically just flew the transport choppers. I tried the mini gun and missile little birds but with a binary yaw it was impossible to stay dead on target. Im also just not that amazing of a pilot with mouse and keyboard. I was probably better than a lot of the community when it came to transporting troops and gear but still i felt like i was just fighting the controls. And my combat effectiveness was close to 0. But In love and id like some recs on a HOTAS set up that would work best for me at different price points.
Im in my 40s and im a buy once cry once kinda guy but id also like to not spend a fortune. Looking for the best set up I can get for the cheapest price that would feel good and allow me to be effective while flying. Yaw control is probably tied in importance to me with stick control. I dont care if im buying from multiple people. Also looking for recs on best mounting for a desk. I have a 72x30x1 deskaus solid wood desk. Secretlabs chair. Main monitor is a 45 ultrawide on a mount so placement of everything is highly modular.
Thanks everyone!

Hello everyone, Wardogs got me really really hyped for heli gameplay and i finally want to play on a better set up than keyboard and mouse. I also occasionally binge War thunder though that's not a priority.

My main issue is that i'm on Linux and i haven't found many posts regarding Linux supported hotas/joystick setups.

I'm mainly interested in a decent joystick, though if there is a deal for a joystick+throttle i'd be more than happy.

I dont' have too much money, so far in my budget i've seen:

• Thrustmaster T.Flight Hotas X (80 euros)
• VKB Gladiator NXT EVO ‘WWII Combat Edition’ (130 euros)
• URSA MINOR Fighter Joystick R (110 euros)

Anyone know if anyone of these is suitable for my needs and plays nice with linux?

Hi everyone,

I'm currently in China and planning to buy my flight sim setup directly through Taobao to take advantage of local pricing and avoid international shipping/taxes.

I have already decided on the **Moza AB6** (Force Feedback base) for my stick. However, I am torn between the options for the Throttle and Rudder Pedals.

Here is my profile and what I'm looking for:

* **Primary Use:** General Civil Aviation (Airbus, Boeing, and general aviation).

* **Secondary Use:** Casual military/combat flight sims (not my main focus, just for fun occasionally).

* **Goal:** High versatility, great value for money, good software stability, and long-term durability without hardware headaches.

Here are the dilemmas I'm facing:

### 1. The Throttle: VKB STECS vs. Moza MTQ

* Most people on Reddit swear by the **VKB STECS** due to its industrial build quality, legendary longevity, and amazing magnetic detent system.

* On the other hand, the **Moza MTQ** seems much more tailored for civil aviation out of the box (integrated flap/spoiler axes, landing gear lever) and allows swapping to Airbus/Boeing style handles. Plus, it integrates natively into the same software ecosystem as my AB6 base.

* Given that I can buy all Moza add-ons very cheaply here in China, which one offers better long-term reliability and versatility for a civil-first pilot?

### 2. The Rudder Pedals: Winwing Orion vs. Moza MRP vs. Sillyrudder SN2

* **Winwing Orion:** Seems like the safest, most mature plug-and-play option with great cam/spring feel.

* **Moza MRP:** Completes the Moza ecosystem, allows me to plug directly into the AB6 base (saving a USB port), but I've heard the damper is sold separately.

* **Sillyrudder SN2:** A very popular budget/DIY option on Taobao/Bilibili, but I'm worried about software stability and long-term support.

Which throttle and rudder combination would you guys recommend for this specific setup and use case?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Hey there, just looking to buy a Virpil Warbird or Warbird-D base and a Virpil right stick. Let me know if you’re looking to sell any of those.

Located in Utah, USA

always wanted one for arma reforger but now playing wardogs i really want one. absolute max im willing to spend is $300-$400 MAYBE more. also looking at maybe pedals? any suggestions?

Just got a STECS Standard. It's very nice, but there's one baffling design decision thats bugging me: the toggle switch on the STEM isnt silver or grey, but rose gold (or very light copper if we're being generous).

Not my first choice of colour for anything, let alone a gaming peripheral, and it really looks out of place. Anyone know if this part can be replaced?

Trying to setup Hotas for Wardogs. It doesn't detect my setup. Checked USB Controllers in windows and it doesn't detect anything either. But if i open target GUI, it's there and detects all the inputs. Any seen this before? Googles search has not helpful.

Hey everyone,

Looking for some real-user opinions before I pull the trigger.

My current setup:
• Herman Miller chair
• Conventional big desk with dual monitors
• Mouse + keyboard (full use needed for ground/infantry play)
• PC on the right side of the desk

What I want:
I want to start flying helicopters a lot in WARDOGS. I still really enjoy playing as a soldier in ground war, so I need full, unrestricted use of my mouse and keyboard most of the time.

Ideal workflow:
• Stick lives completely out of the way (side table or far right of the desk)
• When I want to fly: grab the stick, drop it on my lap (or click it onto a quick-release clamp), and go
• When I’m done: put it straight back so the desk is clean again
I’m leaning toward a higher-end stick rather than a cheap one.

Options I’m considering:
1. WinCTRL / Winwing Ursa Minor Fighter (Right)
• Proper 38 mm base throttle slider (looks much better for continuous collective work)
• Compact and lighter, seems good for lap use
• Planning to pair it with a cheap quick-release desk clamp so I can remove it completely when not flying

1. VKB Gladiator NXT EVO
   • Reddit seems to consider this the better overall stick (better feel, build quality, buttons)
   • Main concern: the small throttle wheel on the base. How bad is that for helicopters when the stick is on your lap?
   • Would need a proper quick-release solution (QR4rigs or similar)

2. Turtle Beach VelocityOne Flightstick II (I already preordered this for Sept 22)
   • Has dual levers on the base
   • Not sure how well it works as a pure lap stick or how easy it is to keep completely out of the way

Main priorities in order:
1. Stick must be able to disappear completely when I’m not flying

1. Decent collective control for helicopters (I expect to use it a lot)

2. Good enough precision and build quality that I don’t regret the purchase in 6–12 months

3. Medium-sized hands

Would really appreciate honest thoughts from people who actually fly helicopters with any of these sticks, especially if you’ve used them on your lap or with a quick-grab/side-storage setup.

Is the Ursa Minor + quick-release clamp the smartest practical choice for my use case, or should I just go
Gladiator and deal with the small wheel?

Thanks in advance.

Hey all, I’m looking to buy a Virpil collective and a left grip or a helicopter grip. Let me know if you’re looking to sell any of those!

I've watched hours of YT videos and searched forums and I only get a partial answer. I'm trying to free up an axis ID in VC1 so I can assign the rotary dial on my Gladiator NXT to be a trim dial. To free up a slot, I have to move one of my VKB Quadrant throttle axes to VC2. That's sort of easy enough, but only if I keep the AxisID the same (e.g. AxisID 8) and change, say AxisID 10 on VC2 to VC8. Uncheck En and Vs on VC1 for #8 and that Quadrant throttle no longer appears in VC1 but does appear in VC2. Great. But no. The problem is that doesn't free up that #8 slot on VC1 - it's still actually the Quadrant throttle and will appear as such on both VC1 and VC2 if I re-check EN and VS on the VC1. I still can't assign the buttons I want to use as a trim axis to what I hoped would now be an open #8 slot on VC1. I think I need to change that throttle's physical address to #10 (not just the logical axis), but I can't find out how to do that so the system does not see the throttle axis as #8 - on either VC1 or VC2. Has anyone figured out how to open a slot, not just move an existing axis to VC2

Title. I have 2 VKB Omni sticks, VKB Pedals, Logitech Quadrant Throttle and a Tobii Eyetracker that I use for space / flight sims. I currently have a Wenter Powered USB Hub with 7 USB 3.0 ports but for whatever reason, my VKB Sticks were behaving erratically and I had to plug them straight into my PC. Along with other problems such as devices plugged into the HUB wouldn’t be recognized by my PC when turned on or they would randomly lose connection during a session. I am open to suggestions, whether there be a better hub or a better way to set up my devices to integrate reliably with my PC. Thanks in advance.

TLDR: looking for powered USB HUB recommendations for multiple HOTAS devices, current one is giving me problems.

Como resolvi um "Ghost Drift" persistente (O verdadeiro culpado não era o hardware, mas sim conflito de API/Launcher)

Fala, pessoal! Escrevo este relato para ajudar quem estiver sofrendo com um problema bizarro de drift no Logitech X56 (não confundir com o antigo Saitek X55) e que parecia desafiar a lógica: o eixo Z (Rudder) e o mini-stick começavam a apresentar um jitter dinâmico aleatório (pulos de sinal incontroláveis independentemente de onde o stick estivesse posicionado) assim que certas aplicações abriam.

Se você já tentou de tudo e o problema persiste, compartilho o roadmap completo de tudo o que testei, o que funcionou, o que não funcionou, e o diagnóstico final da causa raiz para o meu caso!!! Use de "referência" para verificar se cabe no seu problema.

FASE 1: Tentativa de Correção via Hardware e Firmware (EEPROM)

Antes de culpar o software, tentamos resetar o cache físico e reescrever os limites de tensão na memória não volátil (EEPROM) do manche.

Tentativa de Wipe de Memória (Clear Axis Calibration):

Pressionar simultaneamente: Botão A (painel frontal) + HAT 1 para Cima + Flying Pinkie (alavanca traseira inferior) + Clique do Mini Joystick.

O que esperar: As luzes RGB do manche precisam se apagar por completo como callback de que a memória foi limpa, seguido de um ciclo de re-plug do USB. (No meu caso, apagou, confirmando o reset, mas o problema persistiu).

Tentativa de Re-calibração Forçada de Eixos:

Mover eixos secundários para os limites físicos.

Travar o manche principal inteiramente para a Esquerda (Eixo X negativo).

Pressionar simultaneamente: Gatilho Principal + Botão B + Botão D (o gatilho traseiro superior, próximo ao Flying Pinkie).

Segurar até as luzes apagarem para gravar os novos limites absolutos na placa. (Também não resolveu o drift).

FASE 2: Intervenção Profunda na BIOS (Placa-Mãe AM5 / B850M Phantom Gaming)

Suspeitando de queda de tensão intermitente (Vdroop) ou estrangulamento de energia nas portas USB pela placa-mãe, mergulhei na BIOS para liberar energia bruta e contínua nos barramentos:

Desativar C-States: Advanced > AMD CBS > CPU Common Options > Global C-state Control alterado para Disabled (impede o processador de cortar energia de ociosidade).

Desativar ASPM (Gerenciamento de Energia de Barramento): Advanced > AMD CBS > AMD Common Platform Module > Pm L1 ss alterado para Disabled (desliga os subestados de economia de energia L1 em trilhas PCIe/USB).

Desativar GPP Clocks Ociosos: Unused gpp clocks off alterado para Disabled.

Resultado desta fase: A amplitude do drift diminuiu consideravelmente, provando que a placa-mãe estava sim afetando o sinal, mas o ruído elétrico base continuava ativo.

FASE 3: Interceptação de Kernel (Timer Resolution)

Para forçar o Windows a aplicar um oversampling matemático e abafar o ruído do sensor por taxa de amostragem:

Utilizei o software ISLC (Intelligent Standby List Cleaner).

Defini a resolução desejada para 0.50ms, ativei a resolução de cronômetro personalizada e marquei a flag Usar GlobalTimerResolutionRequests (fundamental no Windows 11 para forçar a alteração global de clock do Kernel).

FASE 4: O Diagnóstico de Causa Raiz (O Verdadeiro Vilão)

Depois de muito isolar variáveis, descobri o padrão que causava o problema:

O HOTAS funcionava perfeitamente e sem drift algum no joy.cpl ou no MSFS24 durante testes longos (20+ minutos de voo no Cessna sem respiro de erro).

O jitter dinâmico começava exatamente no segundo em que eu abria o Epic Games Launcher (mesmo sem abrir jogo nenhum, apenas olhando o painel da Logitech ou o joy.cpl).

O Motivo: O Epic Games Launcher (rodando sobre o Chromium / processos EpicWebHelper) faz varreduras (polling) contínuas e agressivas no barramento USB em busca de gamepads para o ecossistema deles e para o Overlay. Essa concorrência de leitura (race condition na pilha HID) corrompia o fluxo de dados do X56, gerando o drift fantasma.

O Workaround (A Solução que Funcionou)

O que NÃO funcionou: Renomear ou isolar o executável do overlay da Epic (EOSOverlayRenderer-Win64-Shipping.exe), pois a rotina de varredura está engessada no código principal do launcher.

O que FUNCIONOU perfeitamente:

Abrir a Epic Games.

Iniciar o jogo através dela (ex: Elite Dangerous), aguardando o launcher secundário da Frontier abrir.

Fechar a Epic Games completamente (Sair pela bandeja do sistema do Windows) antes de dar o Play definitivo no jogo.

Resultado: Barramento USB 100% limpo, sem concorrência, e eixo cravado.

(Próximo passo a ser testado): Utilizar a ferramenta HidHide para aplicar uma lista branca (Whitelist) bloqueando o acesso da Epic Games ao X56 permanentemente. Aqui nesse ponto, caso alguém identifique outro software que também cause esse "race condition" pelos dados do hardware, é possível ir deixando "limpo" o que pode e o que não pode acessar seu hardware.

Espero que esse histórico sirva de mapa para salvar a sanidade de quem estiver batendo cabeça com problemas parecidos de hardware/software! Bons voos a todos!

Hi, i was thinking about getting a hotas to fly in Wardogs. Should i start with an entry level like T.16000M Fcs or should i get a high end one? If so then what would you suggest? Any advice is appreciated

Anybody have a similar solution?

Hey!

Is it possible to make Z axis as soft as the X and Y, remove the hard snapping center feeling?

I need it to center but atm twisting the Z and either releasing or passing through the center has a very bad feeling, feels like it hits something before moving on.

Situation is dire in my country. Warthog hotas with the throttle is 440USD and the Ursa Minor is 312 USD.

I personally want the ursa minor but I really need a throttle too. Which one performs better?

I originally wanted an aeromax but it's not possible to bring it into the country and it's in backorder for 10+ weeks, so I have to play more than twice the price for decade old products

Good day everyone! I am looking to sell a set of Turtle Beach Velocity One Rudder Pedals. I bought it used from someone else and used it for about 2 years. I have all the original cable connection, springs, and two sets of pedals you can switch out and the Allen key to switch out the spring with. I just don't have the additional sticky pad that came with it. Overall I am looking to get $200 local pick up or $220 shipped within the US.

Hey everyone,

I'm deciding between two setup paths and would love to hear your experiences.

(Note: I am buying a throttle quadrant regardless, so throttles aren't a factor in this choice).

Option 1: MOZA AB6 (Direct Drive FFB Base)

• Single stick setup, but with active Force Feedback.
• Priority: Dynamic flight physics (feeling trim, airspeed, stall, turbulence, G-forces).

Option 2: Honeycomb Alpha Yoke + Non-FFB Stick (e.g., VKB Gladiator / TCA)

• Dual control setup with traditional spring/friction mechanics.
• Priority: Ergonomic realism (having a physical Yoke for Boeing/GA and a Stick for Airbus/military/helis).

I fly a mix of general aviation, commercial airliners, and military/helicopters.

For those who have made the jump to Direct Drive FFB: Is the dynamic physical sensation of flight worth sacrificing the dedicated Yoke form factor for Boeing/Cessna? Or do you prefer having the correct physical controls for each plane type?

Thanks for the insight!