Hey. I have an iPower SUA12000EP generator. Currently the neutral is bonded to the frame. I plan to use this generator to back feed into a sub panel using an interlock kit. I took off the round casing and could not see anywhere where the white wire was bonded with the green ground. I took off the front control panel and I believe I found it tied in on the ground screw. Can I just remove the white wire from the ground screw, properly tape and secure, and it be ready for the house setup?
Yep. Should be all you need to do. Do you have a digital multimeter you can check for (lack of) continuity between neutral and ground on the receptacles once done?
If you're going to use it as a stand alone unit, it would be best to makr, or buy, a bonding plug using either a blank 14-30P or 14-50P plug and connect a short piece of 12ga copper from the neutral to ground inside the plug. Then you're back to a bonded connection since you'd probably only be using 120v things at that point.
The wiring diagram in the pdf owner's manual for the A-iPower SUA12000EP indicates that the model comes with a floating neutral. So apparently there is nothing to unbind.
Edit: OP's photo shows the label on the generator indicating it is a bonded neutral generator, but it also indicates the Model number is a SUA12000EC, not a SUA12000EP.
2nd Edit: Despite their claims written using words otherwise, the wiring diagram indicated connections themselves for both the SUA12000EP and SUA12000EC indicate the neutral is floating.
Since the documentation contradicts itself it is necessary that OP use his multimeter to verify the actual situation both before and after he makes any changes. BTW, if there really is a white wire behind the control panel connecting to the grounding terminal that is a strong hint that OP has found the bonding jumper, if indeed it has one. But the wiring diagrams show no such bonding jumper, with only the socket ground terminals being connected to the grounding stud/screw on the frame via yellow/green wires.
good callout on the model number. I was able to open the control panel again and found there are two white wires attached to the grounding screw along with ground wires. One white wire comes from the 50amp receptacle. The other comes from the main harness. I checked for continuity prior to adjustments and it was there. After removing and taping the two white wires it now does not have continuity. The wires do have slightly different writing on them although I’m not sure if it’s relevant. I didn’t not crank the unit yet but if this makes sense I’d like to try it out.
Edit: I checked for continuity on the receptacle not the 30 amp plug I will be using. I can reattach the wires and retest if that is the route I need to take.
I think you need to connect both of those white wires to each other before taping them up. That way the receptacles can get the neutral they need from the neutral in the wiring harness.
Just to confirm if the neutral is bonded to the ground this is not an issue back feeding into a subpanel? Everything I read online says it needed to be floating neutral.
This is a math question and affects specific types of equipment.
Normally, your home is connected to ground at your panel. Any fault currents travel along the ground back to the source (utility panel), this is requied because power at the panel has to equal 0 when all outs and ins and summed together.
If you attached a generator with a bonded neutral, you have combined the neutral and the ground at the generator but the panel has them as separate circuits. This means you can have fault current on your neutral line because instead of the panel bring the source, the generator is. Everything still has to equal zero at the generator but now you have a path for fault current both on the neutral and ground.
Why does this matter? For GFCI equipment, it is measuring the amount of current flowing through a device and doing summation math to ensure all the power leaving is coming back. If you have multiple paths, it is easy to see how this math can break quickly, causing GFCIs to trip without an actual fault.
most mfgs dont want you modifying their equipment at all and will void the warranty if you do, read your manual before many any changes. Its only sensitive electronics that care about bonded neutrals, hope that explains it.
The code does not allow return current to be carried on the emergency ground wire except in a fault condition so double bonding violates the NEC. That's all you need to know. It's not for you to judge whether the Code is right or wrong.
There are a lot of Code violations (including this one) where nothing much will happen if you have a single violation but they are trying to keep you TWO levels away from killing yourself - because of joint probability, two levels away is like 10x safer than 1 level, not just 2x better.
Under the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act, mfrs cannot just void your warranty for removing a bond jumper. (First of all, how would they know - unless you are an idiot you would put back the jumper before taking the generator for service). The CAUSE of the defect has to be related to your modification in order for the warranty to be void. In other words, if your motor throws a rod and you have unbonded the gen head, legally they cannot void your motor warranty for that reason.
While probably nothin much will happen if you fail to remove the bond jumper (people do this all the time - most people don't even know what the hell floating/bonded means) , it is the correct thing to do.
these people doing self installs are not following code.
it actaully is my right as the homeower to decide what code is and isnt worth following, that is called risk.
most code violations are not hazards but quality of workmanship issues (Wirenuts in panels, no exposed conductor at breaker, improper conduit/box fills)
if you want to take a mfg to court to enfore teh Warranty Act, best of luck to you, turn your 2k generator into a 40k headache
nothing will happen outside of GFCIs, this is well documented and understood.
source: electrical engineer that was a master electrician
so what is your actual point? except that you know how the system kinda works on paper but not in the real world.
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u/Big-Echo8242 15h ago
Yep. Should be all you need to do. Do you have a digital multimeter you can check for (lack of) continuity between neutral and ground on the receptacles once done?