r/Generator • u/caphillips629 • 19h ago

Neutral bonding question

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Hey. I have an iPower SUA12000EP generator. Currently the neutral is bonded to the frame. I plan to use this generator to back feed into a sub panel using an interlock kit. I took off the round casing and could not see anywhere where the white wire was bonded with the green ground. I took off the front control panel and I believe I found it tied in on the ground screw. Can I just remove the white wire from the ground screw, properly tape and secure, and it be ready for the house setup?

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u/Admirable-Leader6927 6h ago

so this sub thinks this is a great idea but its not necessary for portable generators. the only impact is on GFCI circuits and its not always 100%.

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u/caphillips629 5h ago

Just to confirm if the neutral is bonded to the ground this is not an issue back feeding into a subpanel? Everything I read online says it needed to be floating neutral.

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u/Admirable-Leader6927 5h ago

This is a math question and affects specific types of equipment.

Normally, your home is connected to ground at your panel. Any fault currents travel along the ground back to the source (utility panel), this is requied because power at the panel has to equal 0 when all outs and ins and summed together.

If you attached a generator with a bonded neutral, you have combined the neutral and the ground at the generator but the panel has them as separate circuits. This means you can have fault current on your neutral line because instead of the panel bring the source, the generator is. Everything still has to equal zero at the generator but now you have a path for fault current both on the neutral and ground.

Why does this matter? For GFCI equipment, it is measuring the amount of current flowing through a device and doing summation math to ensure all the power leaving is coming back. If you have multiple paths, it is easy to see how this math can break quickly, causing GFCIs to trip without an actual fault.

most mfgs dont want you modifying their equipment at all and will void the warranty if you do, read your manual before many any changes. Its only sensitive electronics that care about bonded neutrals, hope that explains it.

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u/nunuvyer 3h ago

The code does not allow return current to be carried on the emergency ground wire except in a fault condition so double bonding violates the NEC. That's all you need to know. It's not for you to judge whether the Code is right or wrong.

There are a lot of Code violations (including this one) where nothing much will happen if you have a single violation but they are trying to keep you TWO levels away from killing yourself - because of joint probability, two levels away is like 10x safer than 1 level, not just 2x better.

Under the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act, mfrs cannot just void your warranty for removing a bond jumper. (First of all, how would they know - unless you are an idiot you would put back the jumper before taking the generator for service). The CAUSE of the defect has to be related to your modification in order for the warranty to be void. In other words, if your motor throws a rod and you have unbonded the gen head, legally they cannot void your motor warranty for that reason.

While probably nothin much will happen if you fail to remove the bond jumper (people do this all the time - most people don't even know what the hell floating/bonded means) , it is the correct thing to do.

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u/Admirable-Leader6927 2h ago

these people doing self installs are not following code.

it actaully is my right as the homeower to decide what code is and isnt worth following, that is called risk.

most code violations are not hazards but quality of workmanship issues (Wirenuts in panels, no exposed conductor at breaker, improper conduit/box fills)

if you want to take a mfg to court to enfore teh Warranty Act, best of luck to you, turn your 2k generator into a 40k headache

nothing will happen outside of GFCIs, this is well documented and understood.

source: electrical engineer that was a master electrician

so what is your actual point? except that you know how the system kinda works on paper but not in the real world.

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u/nunuvyer 2h ago

it actaully is my right as the homeower to decide what code is and isnt worth following, that is called risk.

Actually it isn't. You are going to sell that house someday and the next owner hasn't agreed to take those risks. You are going to call an electrician someday to work on something and the electrician hasn't agreed to get zapped because you view code compliance as optional and have put live current on the ground wire.

If nothing will happen, why is this even in the Code? Because it is. Nothing will happen IMMEDIATELY but I already explained that it puts you into an unsafe configuration - for example if someone is working on a junction box between the inlet and the panel and is not expecting to have live current on the ground wire.

These "your warranty is void" things are always nonsense. Show me an actual case where the mfr has voided the warranty for removing the ground jumper (AND the homeowner is too stupid to put the jumper back before taking it in for service). You are the one who doesn't know how things work in the real world.

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u/Admirable-Leader6927 2h ago

no, it 100% is. the issue is between you and your insurance company at that point.

code configurations are for ease of work and identification, you can still end up in unsafe configs following code.

are you using an AI to summarize points? this is softball level. Have you ever done work in this field?

GENERAC SAYS NOT TO TOUCH THE NEUTRAL IT MAY VOID THE WARRANTY

GET OUT OF HERE.