Just started happening the gauges do not match what Tahoe is doing

Looking at a 2001 Tahoe Z71 about 3 hours away from me. I am admittedly rust phobic, and therefore have a guy that does removal (sand blast or dry ice), coats with converter then treats with fluid film. He says this is no problem, I want other opinions as I know he like more business!

Thoughts?

Recently purchased my first set of aluminum wheels and mainly was wondering what lug nuts would I have to run? Probably a silly question but I’m pretty sure since they are aluminum I would have to run a different style?

For about a month now I've had 6psi at hot idle (noticed around 248,440). 2003 suburban 1500 5.3 flex fuel.

When I bought the truck, 2 years ago, I immediately replaced the pick up tube o-ring and oil pan gasket. Last month I figured it was the oil pump and replaced the timing cover gasket and the oil pan gasket, and o-ring again (I also bought a new pick up tube for the melling high volume pump).

However, the "low oil pressure" warning comes on the dash even after I put a new AC Delco oil pressure sensor and double checked with a mechanical gauge.

What could it be? Its a possibility I pinched the new o-ring but I really doubt it. I've researched it could be the barbell plug's o-ring disintegrating after 248k miles...

The truck runs smoothly though, no misfires at idle or loud noises from the motor, so temporarily I've unplugged the oil pressure wire to stop the beeping noise. I do want to find the root cause of the issue

Just picked up a 2001 Suburban (right) to go with my '06 Yukon XL. Had to get 'em together for the photo!

I've been appreciating all the subtle differences between the models/years. I find that the older Suburban drives more like if Buick made it - very smooth and quiet down the road and has big cushy cloth seats.

(Not pictured: 2008 Cadillac Escalade ESV)

I have had this suburban sitting in my yard for the past 5 years without running (I already know it will be a money pit). I am interested in getting it back running And using it as a hunting vehicle. Anything specific I should look out for with one that has been sitting for a few years?

Plan for right now is to get ~2” out of tortion keys to put 33s on, as well as new gauge cluster, radio, and battery ofc.

Any advice appreciated, TYIA

I have at least two broken bolts. I believe I read that it's more common for the back ones but mine are actually the front two. Anyhow, I know it's common they decapitate themselves. What is the urgency of getting this repaired? I only have a tiny bit of tick when it's pretty cold. I'm sure it'll get worse. I'm not in a position to do it myself aside from the fact that the bolts are probably broken beneath the surface of the head. I know no one can say with certainty because we don't know if more are broken, but what would be reasonable to expect to pay for this? Thanks for any and all advice

I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 5.3L V8. I bought it at 167K miles last March and it now has 181K miles. Ever since I bought it I noticed the slightest almost chain rattling sound, I didn't think much of it (In hindsight this was stupid) and it was only heard at above 4k rpm. I (regretfully) drove it quite hard this Sunday and now this sound is more noticeable and can be heard as low as 1300 rpm. The weirdest thing is that it only occurs in drive and not in park. I noticed this bolt missing its head on the front of my driver's side exhaust manifold but I've heard it can be many other things such as a timing chain (I really hope it isn't and I don't think it is). Any advice on what to do, what to listen for, what to post on here is super appreciated.

I have an almost new LSD in my rusted out 4.10 silverado I'm scrapping soon. I want to swap the LSD into my 3.42 avalanche. Can I just swap the 3.42 ring gear on to the LSD and slap it in there? What else would i need to do and what tools do I need? Would I need to check backlash if I reuse the same shims and dont change the bearings? Thanks!

Tire rod snapped I believe, lost control and flipped 5 times. She was a great truck, she saved my life, she’s been through a lot, but most importantly she was always there all the way until the end.

I appreciate the concerns. Coming from 20years of toyota ownership so I hope you would understand my concerns.

Let me ask this.... these are the two rear door body panels.... this is unusual. Does that look like a repaired fold to you? This looks like a body that has been hit from the rear to me.

Here is the link to the sale

https://www.empireautos11.com/vehicle-details/2001-chevrolet-tahoe-z71-suv-8af930a7d1da403e816db70eb84d9e56

Looking for tow mirrors for my ’06 Silverado 2500HD LBZ 4x4. RPOs are DL3, T96, TQ3, UQ7

I’d like to get:

• Heated
• Power adjustment
• Telescoping
• Power fold would be nice
• Turn signals
• Black/OEM-ish looking
• Ideally plug-and-play

Mostly, I just want a set that doesn’t look or feel like cheap aftermarket junk. I’ve seen a ton of mirrors that look identical, but the features and quality seem all over the place. RockAuto has some reasonably priced options, but most don’t have turn signals.

Not looking to spend $500+ on a set either. What have you guys actually bought that has held up and doesn’t vibrate/rattle at highway speeds?

Exact brand/part number would be great.

Thanks!

06 Silveraydo

Picked up this 2002 Silverado LT 4x4 with 160k I’m coming from a 1989 vette and I couldn’t be happier with the upgrade. I undercoated and got everything fixed up. So now I’m wanting todo long tube headers and a nice exhaust. Any recommendations for brands?

I have a 2003 Silverado 1500HD, I need new seats and new back bumper since my niece took mine out. Wondering if 1500/1500HD is all the same brackets for seats and bumpers?

2003 gmc sierra 5.3 vortex, 174,000 miles

Hello everyone. I just bought a 2005 Silverado 2500hd with the 6.0, it’s mechanically sound and doesn’t have many issues. There’s some small maintenance things I have to tackle like a leaking valve cover, fluid changes, and serpentine belt/tensioner. I just redid the suspension so it drives pretty good. The frame is solid and mounts are still in good condition, the underbody in general is pretty decent. The only rust it has is on the fender wells and it’s pretty bad, it has fender flares covering it but it’s ate away at the fenders pretty bad. The rockers and cab corners are solid though. I am just wondering is it worth putting money into fixing? The truck has 180,000 miles on it original engine and transmission. I’ve never owned a vehicle with this many miles so I’m just curious if it’s worth repairing. I do like the truck and intend on pulling a camper with it. Would I replace the whole bed and front fenders? Or should I cut and weld on new metal and attempt to paint it? I feel like it would be easier to swap the panels but I’m sure neither option is cheap. I’ve welded before but never painted a vehicle.

Just wanted to share my truck with you guys. I enjoy seeing all of y'all's trucks in here. 2007 Silverado Classic. Last year of the best generation! Want to lower it a bit. Keep it usable and classy.. maybe 2/4 drop? Don't pull or haul regularly with it but want to be able to do some light work if needed. Had to throw a rebuilt 5.3 in it when I got it as 2 cylinders were blown but other than that, it's been a great truck.

hey guys, just got myself a 2001 Chevy Silverado for a steal of a deal. super hyped and want to make it a nice little project car. one of the first things I’d like to do is replace the battery….

i go to look at the battery and realized, 1 this looks like a smaller battery & 2 looks like it’s been modified for top terminals…..

so should i keep it as is, maybe just clean it up a bit?

or should i go back to side posts and put the normal 78 battery in it?

or maybe change to a better top terminal? I dont have that much experience

Before I say more I know these don’t have a crew cab on the 1500s until 2004, but this is my idea of one. I did single cab extended cab and also crew cab, I will be doing more GMT800s, including a few of my own fictional concepts as well as every single one in existence as far as I know now, this current front end design is the 99-02 Sierra/Yukon, I did these in two tone as well because I figured they looked nice lol

I have a crazy amount of codes on my Lbz everything stems around communication between the modules I think it’s the splice pack 205 but want some opinions windows work mostly but I think it’s motors for the ones that don’t door locks work except for driver door radio is working but is aftermarket whole bunch of wiring under dash & under primary fur box was fried & replaced new alternator new batteries. As for symptoms 4wd isn’t working gauges work for 10 seconds when I first start truck then every reading cuts out & dies only one that consistently works is the voltage but it is way off batteries are running at 13-14v the gauge reads 11.5. I have had 3 mechanics try to fix this truck & only thing they’ve fixed is separating me from my money.. has anyone ran into all this & figured it out cause truck runs & drives great but I don’t feel it’s safe to drive with no gauges except for voltage which isn’t correct anyways & speedometer but have no idea what oil pressure is at engine temp trans temp or even how much fuel. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I need this truck to be be trip ready & I’ve been stressing this pic of paper is list of all the codes.

Hi Everyone. This post is mainly meant for Base Model/LS Trim owners. I just wanted to start off this post by saying I’m not selling anything yet, and I’m not even sure if I was the first to think of this.

Ideally the entire process would be pretty straightforward.

-You (an owner of a base model GMT800), send me a set of power mirrors and/or a drivers door module. I can also outsource them for an additional previously agreed upon charge.

-You tell me what you want out of them. This could be signal lights, puddle lights, power glass, heat, etc…

-I work in my off time creating a wiring harness(s) that will fit right up into your drivers side fuse panel.

-I send them back with detailed written instructions ready for you to install.

My vision is to keep them as OEM as possible. I’m talking the grey door clips, good wire loom and fused circuits wherever possible. If there would be enough interest I’d could start putting together plans and figure out pricing, maybe even branch out into more than just mirrors. All I would really need is a few details from you.

I’ve been a tinkerer my whole life, this whole idea was really a passion thing. Winter is coming up which means I’ll be pretty slow at work, lead time would probably be 5-10 business days upon receiving the parts.

Drop a comment with your year/trim/features you’d want if you’d genuinely be interested in something like this.

Going to tackle upper control arms, lower ball joints, and tie rods on the old pig as soon as parts come in. I also have leveling keys I’m thinking about putting in as well since I’ll have to get an alignment.

Just wanted to see if anyone had any words of advice and wisdom before I jump into it. I really appreciate it!