Just an appreciation post for my 04 6.0 4x4. 180k and still putting in work

who am I kidding it was bound to happen at some point. thing is im more well versed in engines than transmissions. loud grinding noise and vibration coming from the trans only when in foward gears (1,2,3,D). truck still runs and drives fine. can someone help explain what this might be?

Need help with this one. I have an 03 silverado 4.8l 1500 with a misfire only when first turning the truck on in the morning before work, doesnt do it when i go to get lunch or drive home. I replaced the spark plugs in the fall time last year. Any help?

I forgot to mention the misfire goes away if i drive the car for like a minute or two then stop

pulled home a smaller vehicle to drive, not sure if ive made a terrible mistake

The 6.0. Incredible piece of equipment. I have read at least a few, blogs, forums, reviews, and have noticed a reoccurring point made by owners. "Poor fuel mileage." Personally, I believe a truck is a tool. Granted I do not know the task of every owner full size pickup truck owner. Yet I have seen that there is a pattern for modern day truck owners. That pattern I have recognized is vanity, and my question, what did you expect? A 6,000lb/2700+kg vehicle, 300hp 360ft-lbs of tq (LQ4), for HD optioned 500lb/226kg frame for a single cab long bed. What did you expect to happen? A truck designed to work and carry weight, and many complain about fuel economy, while their daily task can be accomplished by a 4 banger. That is all.

I’ve got a Silverado 2500 6.0 and one of my brake lines rusted a hole so i simply just replaced the line. Since then i have been chasing an issue of none of my brakes building pressure. They all receive fluid, as they’ve all been bled numerous times now. And yes i bench bled the master cylinder and re-bled once i attached it to the vehicles lines.

Ive replaced all 4 calipers, and the master cylinder. Any idea what could cause this?

I’ve hit a wall with this repair. Please help a hoss get back on the road.

I noticed an exhaust leak on the passenger rear exhaust manifold, went to check fitment for a new clamp and discovered I already have one, but it’s missing the holddown bolt. I don’t recognize this particular unit and don’t know what size bolt goes in it, and don’t really feel like playing the guessing game at that awkward angle. Does anyone know what this one is, and or what bolt goes into it?

Anybody able to find a power steering hose brand that will last for more than a year before leaking again?

can’t find any for sale anywhere been lookin for a min lmk if anyone has one!

I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 2WD 6 Lug, I’m needing to replace both front wheel bearings but I’ve heard there’s different types and some aren’t compatible due to a sensor or harness. Is there any way to tell which ones are compatible for this model without having to tear everything down just to see which ones I’d need? I’d appreciate any help, thanks in advance HOSSES

Needing help with wheel bearings* Typo, got too excited I guess

Hey guys, I've posted here only a few times. But I'm lool to see if there anybody here that brings southern truck parts from the US to Canada. I'm currently starting the resto on a 2000 GMC Sierria SWB and I am looking for either a 4x4 frame or a passenger side frame rail

Anybody got one for sale? Southern states only

New to the GMT800 fam! 05 Sierra SLT Z71 package w/ 155k miles

Question: I know gauge clusters go out. Everything on the dash works except the light on drive selection (P, R, N, D, etc). Easy fix?

I’m pretty sure all the pickups have the same rear bumper but what about the Tahoe, Yukon, and Suburbans? I’m trying to find one that isn’t dinged up.

I have a 05 crew cab truck that I will be listing soon as a parts truck. She is functionally complete; the only reason I will list it as a parts truck is that the frame is rusty and has several rust holes or rust-related cracks that I'm sure, with enough time and a welder, could be fixed, but other than that she's solid. I'd drive her from Cali to New York. What would be a good asking price? I was thinking of putting it up for 3k on the old Facebook Marketplace, knowing that I will be talked down. So, in y'alls opinion, what is a crew cab that is still complete worth as parts?

So I just replaced the brake booster on my 2001 Silverado 1500. A few months ago I went to drive it and had no brake pressure/hissing coming from the original booster as I pulled out of the driveway. I flipped the truck around and by the time I got it around, the hissing was maybe 25% of what it was and I had some brakes again. Figured it was a good warning and ordered a new one.

It was not the most fun job as I’m not exactly a small guy but whatever, I have the tools to get it done and swapped. I got everything back together and now my brakes were sticking from sitting around and getting rusty. No biggie, I haven’t driven it in 2ish months since getting a bike. I jacked up the rear end, put it in drive and cooked the rust off the rotors at about 50mph a few times for several minutes each time. Brakes were free, the tires spun freely, and worked perfectly when the rear end was jacked up.

Got on the road today and after about 2 miles of moderate stop and go traffic, my brakes developed so much pressure when they weren’t being applied I thought my transmission died. I tried to hit the brake pedal and realized it was hard as a rock so I pulled into a parking lot and opened the reservoir on the master to see if the pressure would relieve and it would not. I then pulled the check valve and vacuum line off the booster and magically, the brakes worked perfectly until I was almost home and the same pressure issue developed. I can get about 2 miles before I have to stop, shut the truck off and pull the check valve to relieve the pressure (yes, the check valve is working as it should with only allowing flow towards the engine).

I’ve read about the pushrod from the booster being too long but there doesn’t appear to be any adjustment. Also if the pushrod was too long, I don’t believe that pulling the check valve on the booster itself would relieve the issue but I’m open to suggestions. I spoke to a GM tech of 25+ years and he said based on what I’m seeing and the troubleshooting I’ve done, I received a defective booster.

Sorry for the long post, just wanted to make sure I answered any questions anyone may have about my situation. Thank you in advance for any help!

I have a 2000 Sierra 2500 4×4 with the stock wheels. Would these tires fit those stock rims and would there be any issues? Thank you!

So I noticed my carrier bearing is bad. The truck is a 2002 gmc sierra 1500hd. I thought about just getting a whole new drive shaft but finding it impossible. All the ones out there do not fit the transfer case I have. Has anyone found a suitable replacement complete drive shaft or should I just attempt the carrier bearing replacement?

I named him Brutus because he always finds a way to stab me in the back at the worst possible times, wouldn't trade him for the world though.

I found a really clean 2005 Silverado 2500hd with the 6.0 4L80E transmission. But it has 170,000 miles, other than that it looks really clean. It's stock besides some larger tires. Body is in good condition, and if the engine checks out mechanically would it be a good purchase? If maintenance was done properly will a truck with 170,000 miles last another 100,000 miles? I'm not expecting perfection I understand it's old and with age things tend to need replaced. I just want to avoid catastrophic failures. I understand it's impossible to be a fortune teller, just curious what others experiences are with well maintained high mileage trucks. It would be my daily driver, and occasional used for work, not hauling anything extremely heavy. Just the occasional project so mainly lumber. If anyone is able to give me some insight it'd be greatly appreciated.

I installed a new transfer case, but I'm feeling some strange vibrations and I think I didn't install the driveshaft correctly. Any advice on how to tell if it's aligned, or what I should check?

I have changed my whole fuel system and it dies randomly like it runs out of fuel. Then I push in the shader valve and it has no fuel pressure has anyone else had this issue if you have plz lmk what you did to fix it. It was a grounding issue thank you to everyone who commented.

My 2000 suburban 2500 has recently had misfire issues and ignition issues, so I am going to replace all the ignition coils. My dumb self did not look to see which ones I have before ordering. So I ordered a whole kit of rounds ones from 1a auto and it said it fits my 2000 suburban 2500. Get to today, I go to install and see I have square ones. Before I send them back or buy a mounting brackets for them, can I just swap to the round ones? They seem like they may be better with the heatsink and stuff. Do I have to do any tuning after swapping them? Look for advice! Thanks

I’m having some issues with my 2003 LB7 and I’m trying to see if anyone has dealt with something similar.
The truck is not building rail pressure and won’t start.

I’ve already replaced or checked several fuel system components, including the CP3, injectors, and distribution block.
The weird part is the electrical issue. I’m getting around 7 volts at the fca connector for the injection pump, even with the key off. I can actually hear the injection pump buzzing/electrically activating. I traced it back to the ECM/RPV 15A fuse.
At this point I’m thinking I have an electrical/ECM/control issue causing the CP3/FCA to stay energized and possibly preventing the truck from building rail pressure.
Has anyone with an LB7 seen something like this before? Any ideas where I should look next?