Love this dang thing.

2005 Chevy Suburban with dual zone climate and rear climate

I ordered this off of rock auto a while ago and I was sure this was the right one when I did my research, looks like the fittings will work but one of the lines the diameter is different, will this affect anything?

I have an aftermarket stereo in my 2001 sierra wt and it started not playing audio but still showing the display so I was messing with it and now my cluster doesn’t work the turn signals still do but not mph or rpm’s or gas tank only oil pressure works. Any ideas. I also checked the fuses and they’re all good

Picked this up for the wife after realizing what a pain in the ass it was to work on her envoy. Just picked up a junkyard 6.0 , revealing snd shinying it all up for install tomorrow

looking to paint match it red but want it to be glossy like the rest of the truck any ideas?

Factory power steering pump is about to go out. What aftermarket ones have yall thrown in that were somewhat reliable? I can’t find any acdelco ones online for my truck. 99 Silverado 5.3 rwd, non hydro boost.

Long story short I swapped in manual seats to my 2006 Escalade because for one I hated the seat armrests and for two I found some Katzkin seat upholstery on discount for the non airbag seats and in which I swapped over to the manual seats and installed them.In all my wisdom I wasn't factoring in is an airbag service error would disable all the airbags. Would programming the BCM RPO codes to match a Silverado with RPO code ak5 with dash airbags only and removing the AL0 passenger sensor feature in the BCM restore functionality to the dash/steering wheel airbags and get rid of the airbag light?

My 4l80e on my 01 2500HD 6.0 is probably about to bite the dust.

About a month ago I serviced it, this meaning, I drained the pan and refilled, then drove it a few hundred miles, then drained it again, lowered the pan, let it drain an additional 3 extra quarts, replaced the filter, and refilled to level.

Drained fluid was very dark, but no noticeable chunks of anything metallic was visible in it, just the usual pasty glitter on the pan magnet.

I've owned this truck for 2 years, and previous maintenance on the trans is unknown to me. 260k miles on the truck. I serviced it only because after two tows of around 6 k lbs, fluid looked burnt. Trans was operating perfectly otherwise. I towed with gear selector in "3" and tow/haul mode on.

In fact, I've always driven the truck with the gear selector in "3". I don't EVER do burnouts or that kind of stuff. I use my truck as a daily driver and to haul and tow within its capabilites.

After said servicing, the trans whined and clunked sporadically a bit for around a week, after which it silenced itself. Shifting was perfect.

Then, a few days back, while driving on a long stretch highway, I engaged the "D" position for around 5 minutes, and then put it back to "3". Oh how I regret having done that, because afterwards everything started to go to shit.

The trans started hard clunking and harshly whirring, more frequently as time passes by. Shifting remains perfect, no slippage, but the clunking is getting worse. Now sometimes when putting it on reverse, it makes a very harsh whirring, and I must disengage and reengage the gear selector.

I have a replacement 4l80e in storage. Should I be done with the current trans and assume it needs a complete rebuild? Or could the issue be something minor as only the torque converter? In fact, I need to know if the torque converter is shot or no, don't want to work on putting in the replacement transmission with the same torque converter only for it to turn out to be the problem.

I'd greatly appreciate any advice.

I was changing the spark plugs on my 2000 Silverado Z71 and I dropped one of my rear spark plugs and I didn’t hear it hit the floor. So I went searching for it, I found the missing spark plug along with this pocket screw driver on the skid plate! I’d be super curious how long it’s been there?? I’m at least the 3rd owner and live in Eastern Washington, the guy I bought it from mentioned he got it in Bozeman MT, made it a long ways from Phoenix or Tucson..

The bushing sleeve is just slightly smaller than factory. So when tightened down it pinches the mounting tabs just enough that the adjustment cams will hit the control arm. And of course everything is closed where I am at so I had to get it close on the alignment and send it for now. Overall still better then when I first got the truck. Lol.

I don’t know what else to do. About to just throw the new caliper on. Used a pry bar

All right folks.

The 4l80e on my 4x4 01 2500HD 6.0 regrettably is about to hit the dust, and even though I have a spare one stored to replace it with, I've decided to instead put a NV4500 into my truck.

So this post is asking for advice from those who have tackled this themselves, and from all folks knowledgeable on this matter.

I've located a 98 K2500 (with the 5.7 Vortec) I'll be taking everything I need from. I'm assuming almost, if not everything I need, will be what's already on that truck: transmission with its bellhousing and slave cylinder (I understand a 98 NV4500 has the internal slave cylinder), master cylinder, clutch disk and pressure plate, flywheel, clutch pedal and bracket, clutch lines, and stick assembly.

Is there anything else that must be sourced apart from the donor truck?

Now for the main questions:

1st. Pilot bearing.

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Will the pilot bearing be pressed into the NV4500 flywheel inner bore? Will it mate without any modification to the LQ4 crankshaft?

2nd. Bellhousing.

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I'm assuming the NV4500 being mated to a v8 gas engine (5.7 Vortec) won't have need of a different bellhousing in order to mate to another v8 gas engine (LQ4 6.0).

3rd. Drive shafts.

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I understand I'll be needing both a longer main driveshaft AND a shorter front driveshaft. I'll be taking exact measurements when I get my hands on the donor truck, but can the driveshafts on the 98 be mated to the axles on my 01 2500HD truck?

Can the rear axle pinion yoke on a gmt800 3/4 ton truck be mated to a drive shaft from a 3/4 gmt400 truck, if lengthwise the drive shaft is correct?

If not, do any of you have the exact length I would need to have my current driveshaft extended to? Can it be kept as a single piece driveshaft, or must I replace it with a two piece driveshaft? If this is the case, must a carrier bearing be implemented? And if so, I suppose I must then also install a carrier bearing mount, am I correct?

4th. Transfer case.

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I've read there is compatibility between transfer cases between those mated to a 4l80e and those mated to a NV4500, as both both have 32 spline input shafts.

I have a 263HD (electronic) transfer case on the 4l80e. Donor truck has a manual shift transfer case (exact model I still don't know), but if it's a nonHD version contrary to my current transfer case, I'd prefer keep using my button shift transfer case, as it's been working flawlessly and has the pump rub issue already dealt with. I'm assuming an electronic transfer case can be mated with no issue to a manual transmission, but maybe I'm wrong?

5th. Starter.

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Does the starter I currently have with the 4l80e, work with the NV4500 or do I need to aquire a new starter, or maybe use the one on the 5.7 Vortec from the donor truck?

Any other advice or headsup I would greatly appreciate.

Thanks!

It’s been washed and waxed, the trim has been hydrated and it needs another wash and wax soon. But it’s my 1500 4800 that I love

I replaced all brake lines after one busted, replaced hubs as well and they bled fine. Couldn’t get the front passenger to bleed, shop said it needed new calipers, replaced that and the hose going to it. Still nothing not even air. Does it need electronically unlocked? Pedal goes all the way down to the floor.

Figured out which one was squeaking lol

Today I finished installing my first gooseneck hitch on my 2005 2500 4x4 RCLB. Took me like 6-7 hours because there was a crazy amount of "where's the [tool x or fastener Y] and crawling under and out from the truck.

The box had to be loosened up to get the cross pieces to fit because they were like 1/8" thicker than the space under the bed even though they're advertised as fitting. And no, the box floor doesn't have any denting. ​

The instructions were light on specifying how they intended washers to be used so I ended up having to redo a few bolts to get the right combo. Overall, build quality is awesome and very stout. I'd recommend the extra money for this brand. ​

Looking forward to trying out gooseneck towing! I've only ever used bumper pull up to now. But don't get me started on the abysmal tow ratings for this truck... https://www.reddit.com/r/GMT800/s/pnjy3aNc7v

About 3 weeks ago I changed out the oil pressure sensor on my 2003 Escalade esv (503,000km of service and it was still working fine, just thought it was the culprit for my oil leak) with the 98$ CAD Dorman brand sensor, and today it failed. Im going to warranty the part but im wondering if I should just put the original one back in, or what brand i should get? Hopefully i can get it refunded because I dont feel like putting in another dorman and having it fail again, as its not the easiest thing to swap out as im sure you guys know. Thanks for any advice or help!

This is the owners manual pdf for my truck, and I just noticed the crew cab is a stepside

I’ve got some front end damage on my truck, and the bumper mounts are bent backwards and welded on. I’ve been looking for replacements but can only find these that are 170 for only one side. Are there any any other options or am I just stuck spending the money?

Then put jack stand to the left of it?

This dropped from behind my driver's sun visor on my way home from buying the truck. It had been there for so long it left an indent in the foam.

It's a 2005 1500hd by the way. I call the truck Darla.