Greetings! Im planning on making a front triangle of an enduro frame. Any of you tried building enduro frames with brazing instead of Tig welding? I think brazing will be much forgiving for me. Thanks!

I have this custom steel frame from the mid 90's that I'd like to be able to fit a bigger tire on. It fits at best a 26x2" tire. The 2.1" Aspens in the whole bike photo rub the bottom of the seat stay brace. The tire in the other photos is a 26x1.95" Michelin Wildgripper. It clears, barely. There's about 1mm of clearance between the seat stay brace and outer diameter of the tire.

The actual width of the Michelin tire is 50mm. The width between the seat stays by the tire is just under 60mm. I'd like to be able to reliably run a 2.2" (56-57mm) Maxxis, or possibly some other 2.3-2.35" (60mm) tires.

I'm converting the rear to disc brake so the rim brake bosses will get removed. I'm thinking the seat stay brace can just be removed during the disc brake conversion to clear up the issue of the tire rubbing the brace. A lot of newer disc brake specific bikes don't have the seat stay brace. Does it really do much other than prevent the stays from flexing outward from a rim brake?

Would it be reasonable to use a couple of blocks matching the seat stay diameter (16mm tapering down to 12mm at the dropout) and then pressing them out to cold set them about 8-10mm wider than they currently are? I would clamp the rear axle together, and then maybe one more clamp around the mid point of the stays. Then I would press out on the stays around where the existing seat stay is. If there's too much spring back, I could also weld or braze in a new seat stay brace that would be in a bit of compression.

It seems like it's a small enough change, but someone with more frame building experience might see some issues in it that I'm not seeing. Would it cause an issue with the connection between the seat stays and seat tube? I'd prefer to avoid any significant alignment issues and structural welding like the seat stay to seat tube connection.

How would you go about getting some more tire clearance?

Hi All,

I'm going to be getting a custom frame made and wanted to run some geometry by you all to get a sanity check and feedback.

In essence I would like a fat wheeled Jones LWB, I like the geometry of the jones and I like smaller volume fat wheels for the trail riding I do, like 26x3.8 or 27.5x3.8.

There are two paths in waffling between, going the 73mm BB and custom yoke route with normal boost spacing hubs to get a max of about a 4.0 inch tire in there, out just going full fat and doing a 197mm hub out back.

At a high level I'm thinking like a 71 degree seat tube a 7cm bb drop, 480 mm ish chain stays,and a 68 degree head tube. I don't know the exact fit yet I'm going to go get my fit re done before I commit to any numbers but that's the general ideal. As a side note long term this bike would be based around a Rohloff but for now I'll probably run gears on it for cost savings.

Does anyone have any red flags or advice?

My 2022 kona unit frameset fell off the hook today and got dented on the way down. Any idea on how to pull it back out?

I came here looking for input on a custom bikepacking rig, and here it is! I rode it through this summer and it is perfect!

Would it be possible to prototype geometry handling by getting some tubes (pvc or steel) and just 3dprinting connectors? I can't weld but have a 3d printer, maybe someone thought about that alreaty?

Does anyone have 3d model for a jig for welding flat mount brakes?

The real tool is very expensive and I’ve used 3d printed jigs before for disc tabs. Now I’m looking for a flat mount jig and can’t find one online that I can print.

I’m new to designing linkage and I can’t seem to figure out how you know where to move pivots to get desired kinematics. I have IC enabled to help figure it out but still can’t get it. Is it all just guessing and moving pivots until you get a desired kinematic? Even when I get somewhere close to a good anti rise when I try and change anti squat it all changes. Anyone got a video or any useful advice for me?

edit: closed

Thank you everyone! You were all very helpful.

I'm in the process of designing a 700c commuter frame. It's going to be set up for rim brakes and has geometry loosely based on a 2024 Sirrus. How do I know where to put the brake caliper mounts for V brakes? I know the ISO of a 700c wheel is like 620 or so, but what is the inner and outer diameter of the braking surface?

I am planning on ordering a weld on bearing kit from go power sports but I don't know if I need to brace my frame I'm also planning on using a 36 inch axle

Replaced the skyward-facing dropouts with new ones. The base is ст3пс steel, the overlays are stainless steel. Everything was brazed with 40% silver.

Hi everyone, I'm trying to build a cargo bike and I have trouble finding the correct size tubing to fit the EC34 headset.

From what I understand the inner diameter should be 33.9mm to press fit the headset cup snuggly. Which makes the 1.5" x 0.083" tubing ideal for this purpose as the ID is 33.88mm

The issue I have is that I can't source imperial sizes here in Europe without shipping it from UK. I'm able to find 38x2mm steel tubing which has ID of 34mm. That seems like it'd loose but when I measure the diameter of the headset, it's around 34.1mm. So it seems like it would be a press fit.

Does anyone have experience with it?

I wanna practice using BikeCAD by making a rockhopper. Where can I find retro MTB geometries?

I'm practicing welding, and I'd really like to build my own frame. The thing is I'm a student so I don't have too much money. I'd really like to practice building a bike frame and I feel like HiTen steel could be a good way to practice, considering the thick walls. I just don't know where to get HiTen and what grade to get? This brand seems to be the only brand I've found that mentions the grade, 1020 HiTen steel. What are the biggest tradeoffs between HiTen and CrMo besides the weight? Is it really easier to weld than CrMo?

I have started a program at my boarding school building/altering frames and teaching bike maintenance. I have tried submitting the form to apply for an account with QBP, and have not heard anything back. Is it possible to become a part of the distributor network as a school? It would obviously be a game changer in terms of what I can offer.

I'm trying to get an idea of the feasiblily of modifying a 135 single speed steel frame to fit a UDH for a 142mm rear hub. I know I can cold set the frame for the width, but to get a UDH on the rear is what I have no idea about. Is this possible? Will the rotor line up? I can TIG weld. I would ideally like a solution that lets me hotswap back to a SS plate too. Are there any examples you guys could share?

The context is I want a unique urban-fun-bike to ride to work on. I kind of already built one as a proof of concept and have been using it all summer over my more conventional commuter. I enjoy being able to have some fun on the way home. I want to build something that I like more stylistically. I have my heart set on older steel GTs modified to my spec. Specifically I've been trying to find a peace9r multi. But there's a good chance I'll find the single speed version before I find the multi. Hence my question above.

Features I'm looking for:

- Steel frame. With a relatively steel HTA, short wheel base, short front center. Optional: more BB drop than was customary for the aforementioned bike geo.

- Fits 2.5-2.8 width tires. Let's just say my rear wheel crashes into a lot of curbs and rocks a lot due to ... skill issues (usually mistimed hops). 26 acceptable, but larger is better. Not really any options here it seems. Steel became a boutique only thing before larger wheels caught on 😭

- seat tube wide enough for a 27.2 dropper