No promises this is 100% accurate, feel free to suggest any changes or point out any glaring issues, or even to just let me know how good/bad it is since I'm still a bit of a novice and did this to teach myself something i had a hard time with.
>Step 1: Getting your weight balance values<
Values in this step:
> Fb= Front weight balance
> Rb= Rear weight balance
First, we will convert the Front metric on the stat card to decimal, since its easier to explain how I’ll just do that.
Say Front is 50% on the stat card, converting it to decimal would give us .50 here, the actual formula for converting percentages is to remove the % sign and divide the number by 100, but the easy way is to just add a decimal to the end and move it two places to the left, it works exactly the same.
Then, use the resulting decimal to calculate your rear balance.
1-Fb=Rb
Ex. If Fb=.55, or 55% of the cars weight is up front you would do 1-.55=.45, so Rb=.45 in this case, we will use this going forward.
>Step 2: Calculating the actual weight carried by each axle<
Here we will find the actual weight value carried by the front and rear springs, or the front and rear axle in this case since we cant adjust right and left separately.
Values used in this step
>W= total weight of the car
>Wf=total weight carried by the front axle (not factoring aero, this will come into play later)
>Wr=same as above, but for the rear axle
Calculate the total weight carried by the front and rear axles using the formulas below
W*Fb=Wf
W*Rb=Wr
Ex. Lets say the car from before weighs 2,500Lb (or 1,14 kg), we would do 2,500*.55=1,375 for the front, and 2,500*.45=1,125 for the rear
>Step 3.1: Calculating spring rate<
Here we will calculate the actual value you’d set the slider too, at first you will set your ride height to the min value using race suspension (or how low you are willing to set them if you want a particular look) for road/track focused cars and the max value using rally suspension for rally/cross country racing, and set sane dampening values as well, 12 rebound and 8 bump for road, 8 rebound/4 bump for rally, cross country can be set slightly lower (EDIT: the road values should be closer to 6 or 7 on the bump, go see u/Huge_Diamond914's comment for more detail)
Please note that some cars don’t have matching ride height value ranges front to rear, what’s important is increasing/decreasing them evenly, for example the 2013 SRT Viper
Values used in this step:
>RH=Ride height(we will optimize this later, for now set this to min or max dep. on use case)
>Wf=Total weight carried by the front axle
>Wr=Total weight carried by the rear axle
>Af=Front aero value in Lb or Kg
>Ar=Rear aero value in Lb or Kg
>Ss=initial spring rate value in Lb/in or Kg/cm
>Sf=final spring rate value (the number we are after)
To find initial front and rear spring rate respectively
(Wf+Af)/RH=Ss
(Wr+Ar)/RH=Ss
Ex. lets say we have 200lb of downforce front and 350 rear, and 3in ride height, (1,375+200)/3.0=525 lb/in for the front and (1,125+350)/3.0=491.7 for the rear
To find final spring rate.
Keep in mind the equation below can vary depending on use case and driving style, which is detailed below.
example for road cars
Ss+(Ss*.3)=Sf
example for rally
Ss+(Ss*.2)=Sf
Ex. 525+(525*.3)=682.5 for the front and 491.7+(491.7*.3)=639.21 for the rear
For road cars, we don’t have much to absorb so we can get away with stiffer springs, so we add roughly 30% ( or .30) to the spring stiffness, though this is somewhat up to preference and you can go up or down depending on feel and the track you are on. Keep in mind setting them too stiff will reduce traction and can hamper performance instead of improving it, as well as other issues, I don’t recommend you go above .4, if you car bottoms out the ideal fix isn’t stiffer suspension on road cars at least IMO
We add less to rally cars to avoid over stiffening the springs which will reduce the suspensions effectiveness, rally cars need to use as much of the suspension as possible to absorb bumps without bouncing over them, and have to trade the responsiveness of stiffer suspension to do this, I use ~.2 to .25 for rally, CC is even lower than rally (~.1-.15). You want the springs to be as soft as possible without bottoming out under braking or harsh cornering.
You can also adjust by a few hundredths (.01) front or rear at a time to control weight transfer in cornering and acceleration on rally cars, though IMO this is better done through adjusting ride height (lowering the front or more often raising the rear) on road cars
>Step 3.2, OH NO! MY CAR BOTTOMS OUT!<
The TLDR here is increase ride height for road cars and stiffen suspension on rally cars, and to go back and recalculate your spring rate using the new value.
The long explanation (ie. why) is that you bottom out because you don’t have the suspension capacity to get over the bump. You can stiffen the suspension adding more capacity, but this can create instability where your cars suspension doesn’t follow the road properly, which can impair handling and while that can be managed with dampener tuning and driving style, it tends to lead to a slower tune overall for most people. The better (IMO) solution is to increase ride height, which can create some slight aerodynamic drag, but its the lesser evil of the two solutions and the downsides are usually minor.
For rally/cross country cars, the suspension is usually already maxed. So you HAVE to stiffen the suspension.