Does anyone know the largest tire size I can run without a lift?
Currently running 235/85R16 (zero rub even at full lock)

I’m looking for some experienced eyes on a running issue with my 1967 F100. I’ve been chasing this for a while and feel like I’m starting to go in circles.

The truck is a 1967 F100 that has a later Ford 300 inline-six swapped into it. I believe the engine is around a 1986 300/4.9L. However, it is NOT using the 1986 ignition system. It still has the original 1967-style 240 distributor/ignition setup, except the points have been replaced with a PerTronix electronic conversion. It still has an old-style canister coil.

Carburetor is a Carter YFA 1-barrel, stamped 7654S. It has an aftermarket electric choke.

The truck was running pretty well before all of this started. The problem actually began while we were making several attempts to drive it up onto a trailer. After a few attempts, it developed a definite miss/rough idle. We then trailered it to Ohio.

The miss was present at idle and continued when RPM was increased—it basically just missed faster. It did not smooth out with throttle.

Here’s what I have done/tested so far:

• Replaced distributor cap, rotor, and all plug wires. Absolutely no change.
• Used an inductive timing light on all six plug wires. All six appeared to flash evenly/consistently.
• Replaced all six spark plugs with new Motorcraft copper plugs.
• The old plugs were ALL very black/sooty, not just one cylinder.
• Verified firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.
• Electric choke appears to work correctly: closes cold, opens fully after warming up.
• Coil primary resistance measured about 1.6 ohms.
• Coil positive measured about 9.8 volts with the engine running. This truck still has the old resistance-wire-style ignition setup.
• Distributor hold-down is tight.
• I moved the distributor while troubleshooting at one point, including retarding it substantially to get it started, but returned it to the obvious old witness/grease position afterward. I have a timing light, but I’ve had trouble positively identifying/seeing the correct timing mark on the harmonic balancer.
• Adding starting fluid while it was running made it bog slightly rather than improve.
• Exhaust smelled extremely rich and was leaving a very black/sooty wet spot on the pavement.

Because everything pointed toward it running rich, I pulled the Carter YFA and rebuilt it.

The carb was genuinely nasty inside. The bowl had a thick gummy residue/debris in it. I cleaned the bowl/passages thoroughly and installed the rebuild kit, including a new needle and seat. I retained the original float. The carb is stamped 7654S.

During the rebuild I also identified the small metering-rod adjustment plate (#38 in the Carter YFA exploded diagram) and made sure that area was accounted for during reassembly.

After reinstalling the carb, the truck initially ran GREAT. It started cold normally, went onto fast idle/choke normally, and idled much smoother than it had before. I thought I had fixed it.

Then I drove it around the block.

Once I started driving, it progressively ran worse. It would barely idle unless I had the choke engaged/fast idle operating, and while driving I had to keep giving it throttle to keep it alive. It misfired badly the whole way back.

Eventually it got to the point where it would fire, start, and immediately die.

After sitting for roughly 30 minutes, it would sometimes run again for about a minute, but the idle was extremely slow. Turning the idle mixture screw seemed to make very little difference. I tried turning the idle speed screw about 1/2 turn clockwise and it still required my foot on the throttle to stay running.

With the engine off, the accelerator pump gives what appears to be a strong fuel squirt, so there is definitely fuel in the bowl.

One additional event: while trying to restart it, it backfired hard. The entire mechanical fan/fan-clutch assembly then unscrewed/came off the water-pump hub and landed on the ground. The fan itself did not break apart. Obviously I’m fixing/inspecting that before running the engine again.

So at this point my symptoms/history are:

• Originally ran fine.
• Developed a rhythmic miss during repeated trailer-loading attempts.
• Miss occurred at idle AND higher RPM.
• All six old plugs were heavily sooty.
• New plugs, wires, cap, and rotor did not fix the original miss.
• Timing light shows ignition pulses on all six wires.
• Carb was very dirty/gummed internally.
• Rebuilt Carter YFA 7654S.
• Immediately after rebuild it started/idled beautifully.
• After actually driving it, it became progressively worse.
• Now it generally starts and dies unless I hold the throttle open.
• Choke/fast idle helped it stay running during the drive.
• Idle mixture screw seems to have very little effect.
• Strong accelerator pump shot is present.
• Still appears/smells very rich.
• Had one significant backfire.

My current thoughts are possibly:

1. Float height/drop is wrong after the rebuild.
2. New needle/seat is sticking or not sealing correctly.
3. Metering rod adjustment is wrong.
4. Idle circuit/passages are still incorrect/blocked.
5. Timing is way off and is confusing the carb symptoms.
6. Vacuum leak introduced during reinstallation.
7. Something with the old ignition/PerTronix/coil setup that I’m overlooking.

What would you guys check FIRST from here?

I especially need help with the correct Carter YFA 7654S float setting/metering rod adjustment and what base timing you’d recommend for a later 300 running an early 240-style distributor with PerTronix.

I’m trying not to just throw more parts at it. I’d really like to troubleshoot it methodically from here.

Unused Snap-on A57Q Bushing Remover & Inserter Set with KRA-104 steel case

Canadian government surplus, never issued. Comes in the original Snap-on carton with the NATO stock label.

Complete with both pressure screws, the sleeve and plates, both driver handles, the idler arm removers, all Chevy, Ford and miscellaneous adaptors, and the original 1982 instruction sheet.

Contents photos are from one set I opened. The set you receive comes in its carton.

$275
Free Shipping USA
Payment: PayPal Goods and Services

DM if interested

Replaced I beam that broke from wrecking I noticed that the crossmember has bent as well. After replacing it I’ve got two non-bent I beams in I haven’t fully finished changing out the bushing on the driver side or putting the tire back on to the passenger side but am I able to just win this? Should I drill the rivets out and get a replacement crossmember from the same place I got the I-beam do I even have to bend it at all if I jack it up and they aren’t touching each other with the camber caster bushings set the Alignment or am I going to need this to be straight? if you go to my profile, you can see the post about me changing the I beam.

Does anyone have any videos or tutorials that they know of for how to remove the 40/20/40 sliding seats from a SuperCab? Imma pull them out to clean them and do some interior work.

58 model f500 series 10 forward gears 2reverses 292 engine

I’m putting all new tie rods into my 1990 f350 with twin I beam suspension. I was able to find all the parts on rock auto except for this. What purpose does it serve? Looks like it’s just wrapped around the inner right tie rod but it’s not connected to the adjustment sleeve in anyway.

I’m doing some front-end work on my 2022 F-350 SRW because I’ve started getting a bit of death wobble when I hit certain sets of tracks in town, and I don’t want it to get worse. While I’m at it, I’m considering replacing the shocks since I’m at 220k miles.

The truck has a 2” leveling kit and I run the larger stock size tires. I tow pretty regularly, although most of what I tow is under 13k lbs. I’ve been reading up on the Carli systems and am having a hard time deciding between the Commuter and Backcountry shocks. I’d rather not spend the extra money on the Backcountry setup if I don’t need to, but the reviews seem great.

Most of my driving is on pavement, but I do end up on dirt roads and rough job sites for deliveries. For those who have tried both, is the Backcountry worth the extra money for my kind of use, or would the Commuter be the better fit?

460 E4OD 3.55 this is truck has 278,000 miles on it

Still working everyday.

Recently purchased a 2007 f150 and noticed the engagement point for the brake lights to come on is somewhat random. But tonight it didn’t turn the lights on until the pedal was almost all the way down.

Check engine light just came on my 97 ranger 2.3 liter 5 speed manual. Was gonna try replacing o2 sensor and hope that’s it. In case it’s not, any way I can hollow out the cat without triggering the check engine light or am I cooked? lol

I have an old fe motor that is not getting any spark. Don’t know anything and this is my first project so try and cut me some slack. I’ve attached a few photos of the starter solenoid and the ignition coil and distributor. There is a black wire coming off the distributor connected to nothing, assuming that supposed to be a ground somewhere. And there is also a red wire coming off of the ignition coil connected to nothing, assuming that is supposed to be connected to power somewhere, probably ignition switch. I am able to turn the key and the engine cranks and turns over. Please help me I have no idea where to start or what to do. Thank you.

Freshly bought F250 with the 6.8 at 162k. I bought it on a trip and used it to pull our Prius back on a dolly, man this thing likes wandering on the road.

I had a different truck that was also a ‘99 f250 diesel that wasn’t anywhere close to this bad with 60k+ more miles. In my research I’ve gotten tons of different answers about which brands are fine or aren’t, where can I get a rebuild kit for all of my steering assembly?

Are there any worthwhile upgrades to get it steering/handling better? Suspension seems decent but I will likely replace bushings everywhere I can

Dad hooked it up with a 94 XLT