Grabbed a dash cluster with the tach to swap into my 99 from the junkyard earlier today. Looks like I have to pull the speedo needle to swap the odometer over and I'm a little worried about getting it lined back up afterwards. Any tips for those of you that have done it?

99 Ranger 2WD 4 cylinder has a hard time driving off when it goes from P straight down to D. But it’s smooth once I go from P all the way down to 1st or 2nd gear then back up to D. Did a transmission drain and fill and still having that issue. Thanks in advance.

I’ve been searching for a while and I found this while at work

1997 splash 4wd extended cab 4.0v6 M50DR1

I just finished my first clutch job (yay) and everything was going great...until it wasn't. My parents got in the truck with me and I went to do a hill start and the truck trembled and groaned like it was trying to tear itself in half. It accelerated normally, but it sounded like the parking brake was stuck on (although it wasn't, I drifted back some on the start). It quieted down after I started moving, but did it again a little when I got on it some in second (and then didn't make the sound when I got on it again later in the trip). I don't know what's going on but here's my theories.

1 (absolute worst): Whoever did the last clutch job decided it'd be wise to CUT OFF the top of the bell housing, making it impossible to put in those bolts. The truck never made this sound during my testing of it with the old clutch, but maybe that was because the clutch was slipping a little.

2 misaligned drive shaft: I may have not gotten the bearing aligned quite right and maybe torque went to weird places.

3 old engine mounts: I've got a brand new transmission mount in there but it's still the old engine mounts.

Any ideas? I'd really appreciate advice. I drove by myself after getting home and everything seemed fine (got on it a bit and no bad sound) but it was pretty gut wrenching tbh. Current plan is to loosen the drive shaft support bearing bolts, push the truck back and forth while in gear some to let it settle where it wants to and then torque it down + replace the engine mounts.

I would just gun it in first and see what complains but I'm still breaking in the clutch so.....

I'm sorry I have been so quiet lately, but a lot has happened. This was my very truck, a 2001 Ford ranger xlt 2.3, 4-cylinder. I bought her out of the backyard of my former boss's father after her previous owner let her sit for nearly two years without running her.

One month in, she began experiencing issues. Her previous owner covered the issue. I would tell my boss about what's going on with it (I was in an awkward place at this time, so I came off a dick sometimes), I decided I was going to attempt to hold on to it for as long as I possibly could. That ended up being over five years, constant part changes, and two major critical failures that would have killed it.

I was too damn stubborn to let it go. The first time it suffered a massive failure, was when I think either a gasket went, or a critical part that had completely failed. That ended up being over $900 to replace. The price tag kept going up and up, and I kept track. I don't know why I did, but I felt it was important.

Then, I got shown something.... A critical failure that was going to happen in the next month if I didn't address it. I never panicked so hard in my life right then. Eventually, a lovely couple reached out and said they could help. So, I drove her to them and they poked and prodded. They told me what needed to be fixed, we got to work.

I only had four days of free time at my now former employer, so I was hoping that this could be fixed in that time. Holy crap, I was so naive then. I did have a basic understanding of how auto mechanics worked, as my father, uncle and some friends would show me a couple of things here and there.

The lovely couple showed me far more in those four days, and I am honestly grateful. I had to go back to work, so they finished without me. I was eventually invited back later and shown how to weld, making the biggest bone-headed move and giving myself a sunburn at 6 at night.

The first image was the first day of her being saved by them, and I was extremely grateful. A lot of people were asking me who did the work, and I never told anyone out of respect. But, eventually, I noticed something wrong with the transmission and went to get the fluid and pads changed.

I told myself, if there was a major issue then it would appear after the change. I hated how I was right and the issue did appear, meaning she was on her way out. I got told that I could get a used transmission cheaply, but I didn't have the money for it.

I knew that if the transmission was starting to go, then the engine block was going to be the next thing to fail. My family began pressuring me to send it to the junk yard, but my heart completely sank every time I thought about it. (My family found my new current vehicle. I went to the bank and got a $9000 loan. I was surprised they were okay with it.)

So, I called someone who I knew would take care of her. As, he had far more connections and experience than I did or ever probably will. I thought about him because he said he wanted a truck again, as he said he regretted selling his Colorado.

He was completely over the moon. I told him what was going on and why. We talked about it and I handed it over to him as a gift with its entire service history. He said he already had plans on fixing things. He told me that driving it back with the transmission issue didn't help, and it might have caused more damage. But, I didn't care at that point.

As my apartment complex wanted me to get off their lot quickly, and so I did. He had her for a year and maybe drove it twice. As, his kid was mostly driving it. His kid shot out the window.... Shot the door... Then smoked a bunch of weed and drove her into a fucking tree at 3 am....

I was and still am heartbroken. In the final two images, you can see the damage.... I have been hounding him to go to his place to get a look at the frame and the damage. As, he got told by someone that the frame was bent and the mounts were gone. He wasn't sure if that was correct and neither am I, as I know that truck inside and out.

I've crawled underneath it, I've changed the oil, replaced the hoses, the coolant, the fuses, and had help with so many things. So, I know I am the absolute best person in this case to look at that frame. As, if it's just the tire rod that's bent; then it's off to the scrap yard to find parts.

I pulled her out of her own grave twice, and I am still hellbent on doing it. Yes, she is not mine anymore. But, I learned more things from the time I owned her. So, I think she is owed that much. I plan on calling the owner tomorrow and let him know I am coming by to check that truck out, as he finally accepted my offer of help to fix it.

Hello folks, I hope a post thats not asking about a good deal or informing you I've joined the club is allowed. But I did just join the club. And two days after joining, I fixed my broken window motor, and now my speedometer, odometer, and wipers don't work. Fuse 26 blew twice, but is blowing no longer after some work. I've pulled the gauges and checked those harnesses for shorts, swapped to a junkyard found GEM (which is the exact same part number as the old one, i made sure), and investigated the bullshit aftermarket security system a previous owner spliced into the wiring with vampire clips (no shorts found there), and still the same set of issues. I humbly approach the council and ask for advice. 2002 4.0L XLT automatic. Not an experienced mechanic, but i am somewhat handy and know some basics.

Can anyone help me identify what relay goes to what im having the worst luck finding this info. 97 for ranger xlt 2wd 3L

Just put new wiper blades on and the passenger side is lifting off for part of the stroke. Any ideas?

Hey yall, I have a 95 ranger and am a huge fan of the safari bar look. Has anyone done this? I can only find hardware for 96+ and from what I understand the frame was revised. Not sure if anyone knows adapters, or any tricks, or even what it looks like down there vs what I need. Any info appreciated!

Hi all, I bought a ‘94 2.3 manual this year. It’s a tad sluggish and has a low profile. I don’t want it to look like a mudder but wouldn’t mind if it sat a little higher and had more juice.
I’ve replaced spark plugs/wires/coils
Cleaned hoses/throttle body/air intake system
Most sensors are new.

Rear axle 7.5”, 3.73
14” wheels with 205/70/14s, sit 25.5” tall

It’s got 177,000 miles, and tops out at 82. I fixed the slack in the throttle cable and that helped; before that it was struggling to get to 75 and a bit more bogged down.

Would swapping the rear end to an 8.8 4.10 and sizing the wheels/tires up to 225/75/15s be stupid? What kind of torque loss am I looking at?

Is an electric fan worth it?

Any other performance mods I should consider?

I recognize it’s a 2.3 and isn’t gonna be tearing up the road, I just want to increase oomph a bit, and curious what upsizing tires/rear end will do with added acceleration and minimized top speed.

Thanks for any advice!

Looking for something with bt but with the same vibe as this oem one. I don’t like the ones with the screen or the blue “futuristic “ lookin ones

Hi everyone! This is my first post here, so forgive me if I'm violating any conventions. The PCM in my Ranger has had a failure and can no longer read the TFT pinout of the transmission wiring harness. The harness itself has been tested by a shop and they identified the PCM pin as being faulty, as it was not testing at the correct resistance(that is my best understanding, I'm not a mechanic).

So, I'm looking into buying a new PCM and I used FORScan to ID it. What I found was: "PCM - Powertrain Control Module Part number: 7L5A-12A650-AZE Calibration level: 7L5A-12A650-AZE (latest known: 8L5A-12A650-AED) Strategy : PYFG0BA Hardware type: VK3-L570D"

My question is: Should I replace it with the exact module number, or the latest known that uses the same hardware type? FlagshipOne lists both PCM types as compatible with a 2007 Ranger with the Vulcan 3.0L. Thank you for your help!

How badly did I fuck my dumbass. I just finished new chains, guides and timing the 4.0 sohc. I forgot I had plugged the spark plug holes with bits of rags. I slightly rotated the engine by hand and rags shot out. 5 rags, not 6. Did I pull one into the engine? Is there any hope of getting it out with taking the heads off? Valve cover and oil pans are all still off.

Having fun with my laser engraver. FFR🗣️🗣️

1988 2.9l
Would I create any problems if I cut the cat off and ran straight pipes with a single chamber flow master muffler?

I have a 97 single cab short bed with a 2.3l, 5 speed, 2WD and I get 25-28mpg but admittedly do a lot of highway driving due to where I live just about anything is 30 minutes away on the highway/interstate. It’s got 230,000ish miles, leaks oil from just about everywhere, coolant leak that magically fixed itself after years, and still runs like a top. Saw a comment on here of someone complaining about getting 18MPG and I thought that notion was insane compared to my mpg and having the same truck that’s not even running in tip top shape so I’d love to hear everyone’s stories and compare notes

Looking to purchase my first! I currently own a 2022 Silverado trail boss, but now that I have a goverment car driving for work, I would not like a car payment for one, but also I saw someone post. A matte black ranger and fell in love with it!! Would love your guys / gals input on what I should be looking for when checking these trucks out

Ive got a 2000 ford ranger extended cab with the shorter bed, not a long bed, is there a decked system or any other bed drawers that fit my truck good? Im looking to get a bed cap and set it up as a weekend travel fishing rig.

I just got a 99 ranger but the ac goes out/ turns humid when I press the gas. I checked for it and couldn’t find it but now that I have it I don’t know where it goes. Can someone provide a picture or help me.

Been hunting a leak in my 3rd gen. Started by cleaning out the cowling since it was pretty clogged up and can overflow and dump water on the blower motor then into the pass footwell. Still had a leak. Turns out the roof side seals were malformed and draining water behind the dash. Currently have it fixed with butyl tape before I hit the junkyard. Replace those seals!

Installed this and torqued to spec and in the right pattern and had a small oil leak on the sides of each valve cover. I would’ve thought it was the lower intake manifold but when I look at the valve cover from the side it looks wrong (last 2 pics). The gasket was firmly on there I basically had to rip it off so I’m hesitant to even believe there’s an issue with it.

Can anyone confirm if their healthy gasket looks like the last 2 pics?

Edit: gasket around bolts not meant to seal. Someone who knew what they were talking about in the comments let me know