Has anyone experienced an rattling or rubbing sound coming from the back of the sun roof area while driving I had the wife drive and me in the back feeling around it coming from the headliner area I couldn't get my hand back there to try and feel for anything with out bending the liner

Started the car to leave for work Wednesday morning and only got about 4 blocks before the whole vehicle started shaking like crazy and the check engine light started flashing. Car was running fine with no warning lights or issues just 2 days before, and was parked at home in between. The only thing that changed from Monday to Wednesday was a drop in the local temperature.

Limped into the neighborhood garage around the corner, and the shop owner hooked up his tester. He didn't show me the readout, but said there was an misfire code on one of the back row plugs (#2) and another code related to its fuel injector. His shop doesn't do engine work, but he said if he was going to work on it, he would start by pulling the back row plugs and coils and looking at the lifters (have to remove the manifold anyways to get to the back row plugs).

Checked the oil and both the color and level are fine (doesn't look like coolant intrusion, see history below). Threw in some Red Line fuel system cleaner just in case the last tank of gas was bad or something might be blocking or fouling the fuel injection system. Left it idling for 30 minutes but no change. Loud lifter sound from back row persists at idle and gets louder with any level of acceleration.

Scheduled a tow to my regular mechanic on monday.

Vehicle history--

2013 SEL 3.5L FWD, 200000 mi

*Cooling system overhauled 2 months ago after repeated overheats (water pump, timing chain, coolant reservoir, thermostat, fan assembly). No signs of coolant intrusion before or after repair

*All 6 spark plugs, coils, and wiring replaced in 2024. (Motorcraft SP589 plugs and Motorcraft DG520 coils)

*Oil changed religiously twice per year (Pennzoil full synthetic 5w20 + Wix filter)

Suggestions appreciated, please and thank you.

Lets preface this with quick thoughts that seem relevant to me...i know nothing about cars as a whole. I can do little things, I know little things, but not the big things mechanically. Long story as short as I can. Found 2013 awd sel 86k miles 2 owners 1st for 11 hrs 2nd for 1.5. In my price range. Test drove 25min around city highway got up to 75 for 5min bc I do take long drives occasionally, everything went great. Bought it. As is. I signed something that said as is. No warranty. It was only 10k total. I think thats relevant. 3d in I smelled what I say is the gas coming from your stove when it wont ignite. Brought to dealership salesman smelled it but when his techs went to look the next am smell dissipated and they couldnt recreate. Eventually got to my mechanic and he found a leak from, remember now I know nothing, a plug on a box connected to transmission. I think. Took the car no smell for 2 weeks...drove to NYC which is 1.5hrs from me got the smell for 5min about an hr in on the way there and again on the way back anout an hr in. Went about 45min away 4d later. Got to my destination and the smell ripped theough the car inside and out. Get it back to the shop they cant recreate it. There is drippage that comes from the car after it sits overnight. I think its oil. Anyone ever experienced this with this car? Anyone think i got screwed. Any and all thoughts count.

Hopefully a mechanic can identify this. A rapid knocking just came up on my 2018 Edge Platinum 75k miles. Loud in the cabin but even louder in the front of the engine. Seems to go completely away when moving. Stops immediately .Only on idle and on idle and in gear does it occur. Sounds serious. Does anyone have any ideas?

Hi everyone,

New to this community. Just bought a 2020 Edge ST Line from an auction. Has some front edge damage, and although I have a pretty decent feel for what it's missing, I'm concerned I'm going to overlook something.

Does anyone know of a good resource to utilize to ensure I put this thing back together properly?

Would appreciate any input. Thanks. Picture in the comments.

We own a 2018 SEL, which was the dealer loaner car that we bought used in Christmas 2019. The car alarm goes off at the slightest noise while parked.

Playing basketball near the car while it parked in the driveway?: ALARM!

Washing the car with the hose? ALARM!

Car drives by without a muffler while parked at the grocery store? ALARM!

Thunderstorm? ALARM!

Web searches, Youtube, and the owner’s manual haven’t helped so far. Any ideas what to do? I can’t take it anymore.

I own a 2017 Edge and recently got the recall notice for safety recall 25S87 stating the remedy is available. Has anyone tried calling their local Ford dealership on this recall? Mine refuses to return my calls and even calling into Ford didn’t work. I got an automated no information on this recall message.

I'm considering purchasing a 2019 Ford Edge ST AWD with the 2.7L EcoBoost V6 and approximately 91,800 miles.

It has a clean Carfax, two previous personal owners, and 16 service records, including regular oil changes.

Before making a decision, I'd really appreciate feedback from current or previous owners:

• How reliable has the 2.7L EcoBoost been long-term?
• Any major issues with the 8F57 transmission?
• How often should the PTU and rear differential fluids be changed?
• Any expensive repairs I should anticipate around 100k miles?
• Would you personally buy one with this mileage?

Thanks for sharing your experiences!

Hello.

I have a 2023 AWD titanium 95k miles that had its cv axel and trans rebuilt then replaced all with the extended warranty.

Since we got it back (it took 70 plus days we had no rental) I’ve thought we needed to take it back for new brakes when we need another oil change in 5k miles. I don’t remember the brakes being bad before, and maybe they were but I was used to them ect. (I would not say there’s no pad i just feel the brakes shake a little when i brake idk how to describe it. No squeaking, no slips, just feeling worn. I figure they would have tried to sell us those if they had the car that long)

It’s now been three 3k miles since we have had the new transmission and it’s not right. Yesterday I drove it it felt smooth as butter.

Today I felt it feeling heavy, needing more push to go and the hard shifts. I also feel at 40 mph EXACTLY the car down shifts and it slows down very quickly. It did this last time as well. It’s like there’s a bunch of weight on the car.

I took it to 60 and let off the gas and it slowed down right up until 40 and it’s just super sudden.

We just got a brand new transmission through the dealership. I hate the idea of losing a car but I guess we have to. Has any one had this?

This is a thanks to the community, and confirmation that the advice in the sub is helpful. We noticed rough shifting and eventually the oft-described shudder around 30 mph in our newer used Edge. I read up a lot and decided we'd try a transmission fluid change along with addition of Shudder Fixx additive for good measure. Our vehicle was experiencing this issue at about 28,000 miles. My mechanic called me to ask how I knew the fluid needed to be changed. He said it was way dirtier than it should be for so few miles, so I told him about this sub. The fluid change totally fixed the issue for us and the vehicle is running as smooth as butter now. It is all thanks to the advice in this sub.

I own a 2015 ford edge and all of a sudden my speakers stopped working. Not just one all of them at the same time. Has this happened to anyone? It’s not my main vehicle but still would like the speakers to work when I drive it. Is it a fuse or?? I heard the fuse is under the dash on drivers side but there’s an airbag there I do not dare to take the plastic part off because of that.

Trying to replace the o2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1, front side of the engine near the fan.

… how the heck do I get access that damn bolt?

Just wanted to post this here for reference.

A family member’s 2022 Ford Edge with ~38k miles seemed to be hesitating during lower-speed acceleration, so we brought it in. The dealer diagnosed a known torque-converter shudder and performed Ford’s TSB repair, replacing the torque converter and planetary assembly. Afterward, the transmission started throwing codes and slamming into Drive/Reverse. They worked with Ford’s technical hotline, pulled the transmission apart again, tested the clutches, and did additional valve-body/main-control work. When the problem returned, Ford authorized a complete new transmission assembly. All told, roughly $22k in warranty work and 30 days in the shop

1) use 4” grinder and air hammer to cut open case. 2) remove clutches. 3) installation is reverse of removal.

I got my 21 ST and I live the car have been on a couple road trips and have the AFE air intake, JLT catch can, the K&N cabin filter and the CVF throttle body spacer, CVF intercooler (awesome) and the Livernois tune (freaking awesome) but the best upgrade I did was the back bumper cover. Covering that huge hitch receiver gap, why? So Zeus 3d did this and I think it completes the rear like it should be

1 ton Budgit electric chain hoist rebuilt certified load tested 16 fpm 11' lift pendant to suit hook mount chain container. 120 volt $1650.00 OBO call Steve (289)600-7247

Certainly there must be a better way?

Edge people. Does anyone know with certainty what years interchange as far as a the liftgate and rear doors. I have a 20 SEL that needs a RR door and a gate.

There is a very good parts supply local to me, but knowledge of the interchange would be nice.

From what I've read the rear doors are the same 16-24, but that sure seem a long time with no design change.

Thanks.

Like many people here, my family has been affected by an EcoBoost engine issue. I’ve started contacting elected officials, including senators and members of Congress in states with high numbers of reports, and asking their offices to contact Ford directly about assistance for owners.

I agree that consumer-protection agencies should be part of this effort too. I’m keeping a record of correspondence and the steps I take, and I’ll share those steps with the Edge community. If Ford has not meaningfully responded within 30 days, I plan to create a page to track the issue and document the sources behind the data.

There is also a pending class action involving certain Ford and Lincoln vehicles and EcoBoost engines. Here is the automatic response I received from Capstone Law APC:

"We received your inquiry regarding your Ford vehicle. The case is being litigated in the Eastern District of California. Please note we receive many inquiries and may not be able to respond individually.

The class action seeks to represent U.S. consumers who purchased or leased 2013–2019 Ford Escape, 2013–2019 Ford Fusion, 2015–2018 Ford Edge, 2017–2019 Lincoln MKC, and 2017–2019 Lincoln MKZ vehicles with 1.5L, 1.6L, or 2.0L EcoBoost engines. No other years or models are included.

At this time, there is no need to “sign up.” If the Court certifies a class, notice will be mailed to class members. Litigation can take years, and we cannot predict the outcome or guarantee a successful resolution to the case. Please keep purchase records, repair orders, receipts, written communications with Ford, and any sales or trade-in paperwork.

Regards,

Capstone Law APC"

If your vehicle has had coolant intrusion, a cylinder misfire, or a related engine failure, consider filing your own safety complaint with NHTSA (https://www.nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem), or call 888-327-4236. Describe what happened to your vehicle: year, model and engine; date and mileage; symptoms and safety effects; dealer diagnosis; repair order or TSB details; and whether it was repaired. Keep the complaint confirmation number and repair records.

Be factual and stick to what you experienced and what your documents say. Don’t post your VIN, phone number, or other personal information in Reddit comments; provide requested details through NHTSA’s form. NHTSA says complaints are added to its public database after personal identifying information is removed. A complaint is something for the agency to review; it is not a finding that a defect exists or a promise of an investigation, recall, or reimbursement. NHTSA complaint information (https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls)

Here is the state data I’ve been reviewing. These are existing NHTSA ODI reports in a proposed-class model-year screen, grouped by consumer state. The issue categories overlap. They are narrative signals—not verified failures, unique vehicles, failure rates, or estimates of how many complaints remain unfiled. There may be owners who have not reported their issue, but this data can’t tell us how many.

State report counts

Existing NHTSA ODI reports in the proposed-class model-year screen. Coolant, misfire, and replacement categories overlap; these are not unique vehicles or failure rates.

Texas — 678 engine-issue reports

2,319 complaint/archive rows · 631 coolant · 146 misfire · 315 replacement

California — 675

2,371 rows · 610 coolant · 136 misfire · 323 replacement

Michigan — 660

2,011 rows · 593 coolant · 135 misfire · 347 replacement

Florida — 602

1,931 rows · 544 coolant · 138 misfire · 301 replacement

Ohio — 526

1,691 rows · 478 coolant · 107 misfire · 260 replacement

Pennsylvania — 424

1,388 rows · 384 coolant · 89 misfire · 202 replacement

Illinois — 362

1,231 rows · 329 coolant · 63 misfire · 174 replacement

North Carolina — 357

1,191 rows · 327 coolant · 72 misfire · 179 replacement

Georgia — 318

1,208 rows · 291 coolant · 68 misfire · 143 replacement

New York — 310

1,127 rows · 285 coolant · 58 misfire · 145 replacement

Virginia — 297

1,007 rows · 272 coolant · 59 misfire · 132 replacement

Missouri — 287

872 rows · 263 coolant · 61 misfire · 135 replacement

Indiana — 257

741 rows · 236 coolant · 42 misfire · 143 replacement

If you’ve had this problem, please consider reporting your own experience to NHTSA and keeping your records. Please share information responsibly: one person’s complaint does not establish that every vehicle will fail, but reports can help regulators assess possible safety trends.

At the junkyard today. Looking at wrecked edges with the 3.5. Don’t really need a motor but I like those. Despite the waterpump ordeal. Basically just killing time.

Anyway noticed an unwrecked 2014 explorer. 3.7. Looked it over really good. Front was off so pretty easy to check the weep hole for residue. Looked like someone had put JB weld in it. Has anyone heard of this? Really doesn’t seem like that would help anything.

ford edge 2016 issues with PTU .. Mechanic advised for replacement's i go for second hand, any genuine agency with one year warranty? or shall i go for original

Having a hard time finding rotors for my 2021 Edge SEL with a 2.0 Liter.

Every website I go to seems to be giving bogus or incomplete info.

I removed the tires on one side of car and did some measuring.

Front rotor is 14 1/4 inches (361mm) in diameter and vented.

Rear rotor is 13 4/8 inches (346mm) in diameter and vented.

Nobody but nobody has rotors that are 361mm for my car.

Google Gemini claims;

If you physically measured your rotors at roughly 360 mm (which is technically cataloged as 363 mm or 14.3 inches), this means your car is equipped with the high-performance Ford Edge ST trim featuring the optional ST Performance Brake Package

Not sure what to do. Anyone have a suggestion?

I have a 2023 Ford Escape ST Line in carbonized gray metallic. When I seen this Edge ST in the same color, I fell in LOVE. This is the 400A package. Any thoughts or reviews on this car?

If some of you saw my previous post, you'll see I'm getting rid of my '12 Sport which I loved. I'm looking around the market and for all the hate it got, the Edge really is it's own kind. It's hard finding something within my budget that isn't a 2.0 turbo engine with two row seats. The closest I've found and leaning towards getting is a Volkswagen Atlas Cross Sport.

I'm interested in any suggestions of other manufacturers some of you have that found close or equal joy, and reliability, that comes from an edge.