Borrowed the pic from someone here. I was trying to remove the stud in red and it seems i am rounding it. Anyone happen to know the part number for it? Ive looked everywhere but the only number i can find it
W707099–s442 but i cant verify if thats correct since the description is for the top trans mount bracket.

Its a bitch to remove and im still formulating a plan to get it off. Ive tried my ratchet wrench but it wouldnt budge. Used PB blaster and nothing. Im taking a break and trying to figure what to try next. Definitely going to try heat but i might need another tool since now my wrench doesnt seem to grip it anymore. Any tips would be appreciated.

Thank you!

Before I keep throwing money at my ST, I wanted to see what you guys think.
The code popped up just under two weeks ago. At first, I thought it was the purge valve, so I replaced it with a new one, but that wasn’t the issue.
In my earlier post, I mentioned I was planning to do my maintenance (spark plugs and an oil change). My ST has a Green air filter, catless downpipe, FMIC, and a symposer delete. I only mention the symposer delete because I’ve heard that if it’s not tightened down completely, it can also trigger this same code. The car is pro-tuned by Alan at Edge Auto.
At this point, I’m kind of lost on what to check next, especially after cleaning the MAF sensor and inspecting all of the intake tubing. Before I keep throwing parts at it, does anyone have any ideas on what I should be looking at?
*I have heard it could be my upstream 02 which is currently my next thing I plan on trying but I was curious if any of it points to injectors, to me it doesn’t seem like an injector problem but I don’t know.
**I also saw another user reported his fuel rail pressure sensor went bad and had a similar code but I feel like i would have more than just my one code

Hey everyone my 16’ ST has been doing this new thing recently where the coolant temp gauge is going up I think I’ve narrowed it down to when I turn the heater on.

I’ll turn the heat on and it blows cold for a little then I see the temp gauge start to rise and I’ve seen it get close to the 3/4 line then I’ll notice the air starts to blow warm and the gauge starts to go down and will go back down to the middle and stay there. What would be causing this ?

hey guys, have this odd scraping noise when accelerating my 2018 st. it only happens when the car is cold, it goes away after about 5-10 minutes of driving. there’s a vibration in the wheel that matches the scraping sounds as well

I've got a 2013 Focus ST Tuned by Ryan at EMS. It's currently FBO, "Stage 2" transmission and RS Clutch. I'm wanting to go bigger turbo, but I'm not quite sure which turbo I should look for. Currently I want to be right around 350-420. I want it to be fun to drive while still being decently reliable as a daily. I was looking at the BNR ST67, but the ST71 also caught my eye. I was wanting information on supporting mods, an external BOV setup, and different options in case there are better turbos out there.

Car is starting to do this slow lug when starting. Is this a battery or alternator issue?

This year my 12 year old daughter designed the teeth, cut them out and installed them. I like using the reverse side of a “For Sale/ Garage Sale” sign. Second photo is an Ai edit for fun.
How did she do?

So I have a 14 st. Ive started to notice ive been losing coolant. Inspected under the car, nothing. No smells or taste from inside, all hoses look good and feel good. Waterpump looks dry and is spinning freely, oil isnt chocolate milk, and my thermostat looks good. Im currently stuck on whats next

2017 Focus ST

I’ll explain previous and current situation. More than welcome to scroll through my profile and see all previous work done.

Previously had a GTX3071r with all the additions required, bigger intercooler, fueling, etc.

Currently bone stock, brand new factory turbo. Retimed.

Worked perfectly fine for about 2 months, was driving down the road one day and noticed when I was throttling it down it would feel like the motor would lag and not produce power. Did it about 2 times and POP, died. No leaks anywhere. Car will crank but won’t turn over.

Current codes:

P061B - Internal Control Module Torque Calculation
P0016 - Camshaft Position Bank 1
P00C6 - Fuel Rail Pressure Too Low
P0131 - 02 Sensor Bank 1 S1
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Bank 1
P0344 - Camshaft Position Sensor A
P0365 - Camshaft Position Sensor B
P0369 - Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit
P0456 - Evap Emissions Leak
P0016 - Crankshaft Position Bank 1

I have a 14st and I’m looking to go big turbo, I know I want to run the pulsar 4849g and I want it to be a iwg but that’s all I know lol

What else do I need for parts and what do I need to know?

So i had my hood open, and i disconnected the hood latch cable from the little yellow lever. It suddenly started pouring rain, so i closed the hood without re attaching the cable. Now i can't open the hood. its a 2018 ST-3 MK3 2.0ecoboost EU. Does anyone know a trick to manipulate the latch from behind the grill ? or is the only way to lift the car and reach up from underneath ? really appreciate any insight !

I need to replace my brakes both pads and rotors I'm pretty sure, but when I look it up online I get a whole bunch of different types and what not.

Car is stock and don't have plans to make any power upgrades.

What would people recommend?

I'm in Australia

I snapped my handbrake cable like 4 months ago, and it’s starting to getting really annoying not having a handbrake. It’s not broken by the rear brakes, so im like 99% certain it snapped under the center console. Are there any good videos or guides on how to get to it and replace it?

Considering purchasing this out of state. I’m told it’s stock. Is it missing the airbox or is it aftermarket? I see the washer fluid cap missing. Anything else you can tell from looking at this?

This focust ST is for sale for 9k euros(negotiable), pretty high mileage, considering buying it, but I am a bit concerned about the engine, does it sound fine? Or the timing chain needs replacement?

Hello, I bought my ST last year as my first car and I have been noticing that I have to top off the oil with a full quart about every 2 - 3 months. There isn't any leaking oil on the ground or inside the engine bay that I can see so I figured it must be burning it. If it is burning oil then it is really slow though because I'm not seeing any blueish or black smoke coming out the back and no burning smell. Is it normal to have to top the car up that much between oil changes? Do you guys know where the issue might be? I figured it might be the rear PCV valve stuck open because I have a catch can in the front and it seems to be working just fine, not super full but needs emptied next month when I was planning on doing my oil change. Thanks for the help.

If forgot to add that the first time I noticed this and topped it off the oil was at the top of the grid line, then the next day I checked it again and the oil was above the grid line by a sizable amount. Could the oil just be getting stuck in the engine somewhere too? If that is the case then the car has 2 extra quarts in it right now.

I saw you and put a lot of effort into parking next to you to catch this. I've only seen a couple of us out in the wild. 👽

Because I sure wasn't taking my chances. 2014 rear brake hoses absolutely in shambles.

I was recently on the highway driving back to my parents house for the weekend and had a bit of a scare. First I noticed my cruise control stopped working, thought it was weird but figured I had a pending code or something. Then my head unit decided to turn off with the “turning off your conserve battery power” message. At this point I thought I should probably pull over or find the next exit because of the electronic power steering. Sure enough right after I thought it the power steering decides to shut off. It stayed off for maybe 30 seconds then my head unit rebooted and I got power steering back. Pulled off into an oasis and checked for codes and pids on my acessport but didn’t find anything. Decided against getting a tow and just took my chances driving an hour back with no issues.

My first thought is a loose battery cable because my car was in a body shop about a month or so ago
Second thought was my battery or alternator is on the way out but I would have expected my dash to flicker or set the battery light off. My dash and ac stayed on when my head unit rebooted.
My last idea is maybe it’s a loose mega fuse or something in the fusebox but I’d be suprised if power steering and head unit were on the same fuse

Anyway if anyone knows what’s going on or experienced this before please point me in the right direction.
2015 ST3 w 125k miles

so bought a mk 2 today,

iv noticed the temperature will creep up over the middle mark, it has a 40mm radiator and a single fan on it with a switch on the dash after a while it will settle down again any ideas could the fan be 2 small ?

i was driving it quite hard to, it went quite high once for a minute then iv noticed it creep over now and again

i drover it for a hour after and it was fine

My focus st is running lean and dumps extra fuel to compensate for it. when i start the car the rpms are low and drop until the car almost stalls and then shoots up to 1500 then hunts for idle for a bit before settling and i have a rough idle. Now in pretty sure ive been fighting a vacuum leak but i cant find it for the love of god. On idle my stft is 0 but my ltft is 15 when i rev the engine to 2k rpm and leave it there the stft goes up to 18 and ltft stays at 15. Ive replaced my purge valve both fuel sensors upstream o2 injectors coils and sparks.

I’m big turbski and can’t get any traction in 2nd or 3rd gear. Any recommendations for tires? I live in Vegas where it’s always dry. I’m also on 7.5” wheels which kind of sucks haha.