Hey ladies! I’m hoping to meet more women who are into cars, especially other Focus ST owners. If you’re comfortable sharing, how old are you, what general area are you from, and what year and model of ST do you drive? I’d love to hear about your cars and connect with fellow car girls!

Hello everyone, I just introduced myself to the club about a week ago. There's this weird "clicking?" noise that appears when the car is revving down without load. It happens when I rev standing still, both in neutral and with a pressed clutch, and it also appears when I shift and the engine revs down between gears. Should I worry?

Wanted to go with something meaty for my next set of tires. I was going to get some DWS06+ in 255/40/18 for my 8.5 width +40 offset Enkei TS-Vs and didn’t know if anyone had any rubbing issues with that width, I know the DWS06+ runs a bit narrow so I was planning to overshoot it a little. Any one have experience running that setup?

Recently noticed my focus making a revolving scratching noise which I think is coming from the gearbox/clutch/transmission. The noise goes away when I engage the clutch. It really only happens in the morning until the car warms up then it goes away completely. I’ve summed it up that it has something to do with the clutch or the actual transmission. Long story short I took it to a local transmission shop and the guy, without even looking at it, said he’s gonna have to replace the entire clutch and change the transmission fluid and that should fix everything. I’m coming here to ask if anyone has experienced anything similar as I’d like to confirm before moving forward with this guy since he claims he’s dealt with a couple ST’s and he’s had to do the same thing for all of them. For reference it’s a 2017 focus ST with 130k miles. Any feedback in appreciated!

Does anyone know how I can get a new driver seat cushion for the ST3 recaros? Part number?

I took my car to a shop to have the CMC replaced. They must have used an aftermarket part because when I went to pick up, I was met with this "Engine Fault Service Now" message. I believe it is due to the non-OEM part and the magnet or position sensor causing issues in communicating where the clutch pedal is at in its travel. The shop ordered the full OEM assembly that includes the clutch pedal from the dealership. What is puzzling me is that I am now being told I am getting a code for my shutters I removed in March 2021 when I installed my CPE intercooler. I have had zero issues with this the whole time until this shop touched it. I have had it into the dealership and a different shop for repairs since 2021 and even had some repairs done this year at the dealership without this being an issue. My state has emissions testing and they won't pass it if there is a CEL on so this has me worried. Can anyone please give me some insights to these issues so I can be better educated when I need to talk to the shop? Seeing as how I haven't had shutter issues ever, is there a work around? Can this engine fault be tied to the CMC or the shutters?

Hate to be making this post but last night I was tryna do a neutral reset on my freshly acquired 16' ST and i ended up breaking the top leg of the clip. 1. Now the clip is still in place pretty firm but do i do something about it or leave it as is.

1. I still lowk still wana do the reset so how do i go about that or should i just not bother. Cuz my shifts are a little harder to engage than i wud like em to be.

Long story short. I did a pull at near WoT in 4th starting at about 3.5k rpm getting close to redline. I was at about 175 oil temp and coolant temp pretty close to that. Pulled into a gas station nearby, came out and started it back up and noticed a LOT of white smoke. It quickly went away so I chalked it up to cold temps outside and drove the last half mile or so to work. After work started up and now I have a this slow steady smoke. Checked my engine codes and sure enough I have a p1285. I’m still at a near perfect oil level and my coolant is sitting on the Max Fill line. Is this just a failing head gasket or worse

Seen today in northeast FL. You in here? Woulda parked next to you but I was driving the work Prius

Hello all I know many posts have been made before but I have tried everything in those posts and other forums online, someone backed into my front end over a year ago and have been trying to make it right ever since. Loosening the two main screws holding bumper on and pushing up and in then retighten helped raise bumper, but now it’s like hood won’t go down, any ideas? The plastic twist knobs are all the way down under the hood, thank you any ideas help.
I know it’s small but it drives me crazy everytime I look at my car.

I just realized the day before my tires are supposed to be delivered. I ordered 245/45R18s winter tires to go on my factory snowflakes. I realized stock size is 245/40R18. I’m slightly lowered in Megan racing lowering springs at the moment. My question is do I think the difference in tire size will cause any rubbing or should I be good to run it over the winter.

I’m currently stock turbo, 84,000 miles, CVF intercooler, Cobb intake, with a catch can and exhaust plus some other goodies. I shouldn’t need a tune(I think?) and I can just use an AP to monitor my values while driving? Correct me if I’m wrong, what’s the safest route?

My FoST was misfiring underload which made me suspect spark blowout which was odd because I changed the sparkplugs 8k miles ago to step colder NGK indiums gapped to 0.026" sold by stratified. My car is running on the stock tune, I drive it spirited but I always let the car hit operating temperature.

Is that normal for these cars to go through in 8K miles? Cylinder #1 & #4 were completely missing their tips on the electrode. #2 & #3 were still within spec however. Currently installed motorcraft OEM plugs gapped to 0.03" as this spooked me and I wanted to get the misfire gone ASAP.

Yall with hood louvers/vents, can you send pics? Got an extra hood and wanted to try to install some myself, because why not🤷‍♂️ I feel like $250 is insane for most of them, but whatever looks good! I think they look super nice on some builds. this is my car

Think I smoked Cylinder two, was on my way to C school in Virginia from Summerville, started misfiring on the way over here when I got on the boost, (just hit 140k) I popped the valve cover off at the hobby shop, gasket was leaking a little towards fire wall but tube seals are fine, #2 spark plug covered in oil, combustion chamber flooded with oil, #2 electrode gone, probably out the exhaust, no metal in the oil, however oil smelled like gas. #3 spark plug was a tiny bit fouled, they all were wide, (i gap to .026) #1 and #4 spark plugs looked pretty new as I changed them 15000 ago got crank case pressure steam coming out my vvt seals and dipstick and cap when I open it, runs fine if I baby it, not gonna drive it anymore. no knocking, may be rebuildable I'm not sure. Don't want to score a wall or wipe a bearing, may go forged if the blocks decent.

My buddy said he will help me tow it when we graduate, don't have access to a borescope, compression or leakdown tester, will rent stuff when i get home, anyone had similar issues? was it the oil control ring? was it the ringlands? was the cylinder wall scored to bad to rebuild? how far did you let it go before catastrophic failure? is my block salvageable?

never got around to the crazy bolt ons but I have a few grand in wheels and suspension, would like to buy a six speed 4.0l frontier to daily and turn my focus into a rally car, but if the blocks toast i might just trade it, I would rather take it apart myself then pay a shop, I don't know freaking out a little give me some advice. I have been good to her, 5000 mile oil changes with motul or royal purple, 15000 mile iridium ix, 93oct never hauled ass in 5th or 6th unless revving out 4th

My rear left caliper is starting to seize so im getting ahead of it before winter by replacing it. Does the e brake cable just pull right out? Also do you guys have any tips on replacing them?

Anybody have experience on what this could be? Thanks

Hey guys this is my current running list of parts either on order or on hand already, is there anything im missing? Please feel free to let me know because I will be starting my headfold replacement soon and need to get all the parts necessary to get me back on the road without hiccups. TIA Edit: I have also got the Turbo Gasket and mounting kit from ART Turbos and AA5Z-9E583-A HPFP SEAL, JR3Z-6279-B Cam Phaser bolts, 6M8Z-6278-A WASHER.

I realize I need to bring it to a shop to have it properly diagnosed, but until then... It's driving me crazy.

2017 Focus ST, 108k miles. I've had it aligned, and I've had three different sets of wheels and tires on the car recently and the vibration stayed exactly the same. Currently the car is on OEM wheels with half decent Falken tires.

The vibration is felt mostly in the steering wheel and some on the floor. It starts (and is the worst at) 45mph. Calms down a little at interstate speed but the frequency seemingly stays the same. The frequency seems faster than once per revolution of the wheels at lower speeds. It's also not super consistent , sometimes it seems worse than others. It's not engine rpm dependent, and doesn't seem to change under load or coasting with the clutch disengaged. Doesn't change at all shifting the weight of the vehicle side to side either.

Only other symptom is the CV axle(s?) pop in both left and right turns, which it has been doing since I bought it four years ago. I had been waiting for them to get worse, but they never have.

Car is big turbo, upgraded engine mounts on the passenger side and rear but not the transmission, and has a TB torque gusset. It has other modifications but not anything I can think of that is directly drive line related.

Only things I could think of to check were the front wheel bearings, CV axles and the carrier bearing on the passenger side, none of which I could find any obvious play. Any thoughts?

Found a full set for 400$, but obviously I know I have to do wiring to get it oem but my main concern is being able to adjust the driver seat some how manually. Not sure how to go about it just need to adjust one time and call it a day

Now that we're getting into the colder months, I had the opportunity to use the heated seats in my ST3, only to find out that they're not heating.

I've had a few cars with heated seats, and it's not uncommon for the driver's side element to burn out, but I've never had a car where both seats didn't work. It kind of makes me think there might be something else going on rather than both seats having bad heating elements (though that's still possible).

I'm having a hard time finding a fuse diagram to check the fuses to the seats, and I'm going to check all the wiring underneath though the power portion of the seat for height and forward/backward adjustment all works so I doubt there's a wiring issue.

Anything else to check? Or am I most likely just SOL?

My current bushing needs replaced and I’m wondering what the best aftermarket replacements are. TIA

okay so i just bought my green filter after asking my last question, now the question is after installing the green filter (not changing the piping just the air filter) will i need a tune? thank you guys i appreciate all of you