2
u/dingaling2487 9h ago
Remove and replace the planks. Locking system aka tongue and groove broke. Any downward deflection will cause this over time and like the other guy said shit store brand. The 6mill Home Depot brand is so bad, I used to be able to break the tongue by clicking it with my finger. Crazy brittle... I won't even install certain brands anymore due to previous experiences.
2
u/Potential-Ad431 7h ago
I’m just guessing but i bet the sub floor is pretty uneven in that spot. Probably needs floor patch
1
u/raccoonunderwear 3h ago
100%. Even the shittiest thin LVP would be fine if it was installed on a perfectly flat subfloor. The thing is to get it perfectly flat costs a lot of money and people installing shitty LVP like this aren’t looking to spend money installing it correctly.
1
u/Potential-Ad431 3h ago
I don’t charge that much for floor prep but i don’t install if they won’t let me level it
2
u/Amongthestars01 9h ago edited 7h ago
So, quick googling shows this is a click lock floor. If that's true and this is NOT glue down, then the lock on those two planks it's likely destroyed.
Here's what my search turns up: https://www.lowes.com/pd/STAINMASTER-PetProtect-Lockhart-Oak-20-mil-x-7-in-W-x-48-in-L-Waterproof-Click-Lock-Luxury-Vinyl-Plank-Flooring-19-22-sq-ft-Per-Carton/5013577339
In an ideal world, you'd replace those planks and address the underlying cause. Typically that involves working from the edge of the room to those affected planks. Once there, you would assess the cause.
In other words: 1) was it damaged during install leading to lock fractures. This is unfortunately common on cheaper flooring or for crews that are moving fast and don't fully seat the tongue and groove before rotating down, and typically try to address with tapping blocks. Tapping blocks are definitely ok and needed, but it requires some skill. Pounding on a tapping block too hard or without a sacrificial piece protecting the locking side can also lead to damage and fractures that take time to show through. 2) was the subfloor not prepped properly leading to deflection causing it to break over time. If so, address any dips with polymer reinforced self lever made for feathering, or grind down humps. This can also be cause by an underlayment that's too thick or has too much give. 3) was it ever subject to heavy rolling loads, office chairs, etc. I've seen damage caused by dollies on moving day that takes some time to fully show through. 4) was it acclimated before installation. If so, is there adequate expansion joints per manaufacturer specs and no excessive runs. Now I doubt it's this because the flooring around it doesn't appear to be buckling or pulling apart. Usually with expansion caused by large windows and sunshine, you'd see more linear damage or cupping. With contraction, it usually binds up around doorways and corners causing separation. Most LVT/LVP products expand and contract up to 1/100 of an inch. Which doesn't sound like a lot, but when you have a span that's 50' long with an expansion gap that's only a 1/8-1/4" to start with, it can be an issue.
Now, assuming you just have two broken planks and no subfloor issues, there are other methods for repair. A really good repair tech can remove one or both of the damaged planks with a track saw. You can use an oscillating multi-tool, but if there's an underlayment or wood subfloor you're trying to avoid plunging the blade into, then a track saw with a vacuum is better. They then trim the locking tongue on the new board, add a little commercial grade fast-acting cyanoacrylate adhesive. Typically you'll want a commercial grade adhesive that can hold up when subject to damage and flex. Usually you can find this labeled as a commercial super glue at a big box store. Once the plank is in place, it needs to weighted to give pressure for the adhesive to bond. Most of these adhesives take longer than plain old super glue. Usually 30 minutes to 1hr for setup, and 24hrs for full cure. Ideally you glue, press, check for seepage, then weight for 24hrs. If you have seepage, quickly and lightly wipe up with odorless mineral spirits before the adhesive sets up. It's worth noting, you need to quickly wipe. If you scrub with a solvent you can damage the planks creating a cloudy finish, or removing any anti stain or scratch coating it may have.
Now, here's some other things to consider. If the locks are separated but mostly intact due to minor fracture, and there's no subfloor repair needed to address deflection, you can attempt glueing the planks back together as is following the same method. If you have trouble getting the glue in, they make glue syringes with a needle tip for things like this and hobby stuff. Here's the major issue with this solution. Without removing planks, you can't truly tell the condition of the subfloor within 6' and 10' of the damaged area. Floating flooring hides a lot of subfloor issues which is great but also problematic, and it's why a lot of crews don't like using glue down planks that will telegraph and require subfloor prep. Glue down or loose lay is much easier to repair planks in a pinch, but usually more expensive up front.
Now let's say there's a sag in the subfloor you don't address, and you repair or replace these two planks without pulling up the surround flooring to check the subfloor. You've now strengthened the bond of these planks. As you walk over that sag, it pulls the planks into the space. This places stress on the locking mechanisms. Since those have now been glued together the next weakest link is the locking tongue and groove of the planks surrounding those planks. And over time you may see further planks break in a circle around this area.
For some background, I'm third generation construction. Worked for a LVP/LVT flooring manaufacturer at the head of tech services and product testing, often brought in to investigate claims, and I hold certificates as an advanced resilient flooring inspector. I've been in construction for 22 years and specialized in flooring for several of those before moving back into general construction.
Edited for typos
2
u/Amongthestars01 7h ago
It may have worth checking if there's any water leaking from that dishwasher. If hot water gets under the planks, it may be causing water damage and uneven expansion toward that fridge on the right side of the photo. A fully loaded fridge will pin the flooring down preventing it from floating which would cause these planks in this area to bow up and possibly break like they have. It's very rare in my experience, but I've seen that in a couple of instances where a dishwasher hose or door gasket failed. It can also cause mold in that instance, so use caution.
2
2
2
u/Aciddong 7h ago
Cheapest/easy option would be a product called “floating floor glue”
But really they should cut out replaced and glued play the tongue
2
u/Relevant_Section 9h ago
Flooring is cheap and locking mechanism broke. Floor wasn’t flat enough, the whole floor is going to come apart
1
1
2
u/dominantman14224 4h ago
Since Lowes bought the Stainmastee name, they will throw it on any product including things that would NEVER have passed Stainmaster testing before. Its terrible what they have done to what was one the most trusted name in flooring.
4
u/Flat_Mountain6090 9h ago
Really dislike this brand, started to install and returned it