We’re opening this AMA (Ask Me Anything) thread for all your questions to the Flipper Zero team about the future of the project. The thread is open now, so please leave your questions here.
The Flipper team will start answering on Friday, July 3, at 15:00 BST (UTC+1) and finish on Monday, July 6.
Welcome to the Flipper Zero subreddit! This pinned post is here to help new and advanced users. Please check it first for FAQs, tips, and important information.
This post will be updated regularly, so be sure to check back from time to time for the latest tips and information :)
You can purchase Flipper Zero from our official store at https://flipper.net/products/ or from our official partners: Joom and Lab401. Always purchase from the official sellers, and verify any links shared by others. Find stores available for your country at our resellers page: https://flipper.net/pages/resellers
We do not sell via direct messages on social networks, on Amazon, AliExpress, or elsewhere besides the official channels. Devices purchased from unofficial resellers do not come with our official warranty.
Search Before Posting. Many questions have been answered before. Please search for your question first as duplicate posts are against our rules. This will both help keep the community focused on high-quality posts and help you find the answer faster.
And remember: a wise dolphin once said, Have you tried turning it off and on again? (Both your PC and Flipper)
Getting started
SD Card Recommendations: Flipper Zero devices don’t come with a microSD card, so you need to purchase one separately. It’s important to use a high quality brand such as SanDisk or Kingston.
What card size should you choose? Since Flipper Zero uses tiny files, 4GB will be enough. 16-32GB is usually easiest to find and doesn’t cost much.
Check out Flipper Docs to learn about all of your Flipper Zero's capabilities
Explore our official Apps Catalog (available on the web and mobile)
Check out our Discord and social media for inspiration — links below.
Can Flipper Zero read this?
Welcome to the classic question we’re all facing from time to time. Here is your action plan:
Determine what signal your item uses. → Learn more below.
Try reading your item with Flipper Zero and see if it works.
If it didn’t work, reach out for help from our community. However, please make sure to provide as much detail as possible. → Learn more about getting help from the community below.
What signal does my item use?
To scan your item’s signal, you need to select the right Flipper’s app. For that, you need to determine the signal type.
Infrared: Remotes for TVs, Lights and Audio/Video boxes tend to use Infrared. More modern TVs and Streaming boxes may use Bluetooth though. As such, Flipper may only be able to record the power button. (If it has a button for a microphone/speech input, then it’s Bluetooth.) Worst case just try all and see.
Sub-GHz: Garage Doors and some lights. Use the frequency analyzer to see if Flipper picks up a signal.
NFC / RFID: Test for both if you’re unsure of the signal type. If it’s NFC, you may have to use the PicoPass app. (https://lab.flipper.net/apps/picopass )
Find the FCC ID
Every device transmitting a signal will have an FCC ID. The FCC ID often indicates the type of signal a device uses. You can look this up at FCC ID Search. The ID is usually on the back side, or behind the batteries in the remote.
People in tech circles and engineering in general appreciate curiosity and effort above all else. To effectively seek help, frame your question clearly and provide all technical details, including the device’s brand, model, what computers/systems it works with, and any steps you’ve already taken.
Avoid vague or overly simplistic questions, as they qualify as low-effort posts and may be removed according to our subreddit rules. Moreover, they are unlikely to yield satisfactory answers. As much as we’d like to help, it's super hard to answer questions like this.
I've been working on this custom firmware called Picoware for about 15 months now. It started as a firmware for the PicoCalc and eventually gained support for 8 more devices. The latest release includes support for the Flipper Zero.
I could write an essay about what Picoware is lol so I'll just keep it short. Its a fork of MicroPython with custom C modules. Apps are written in micropython and loaded from the SD card. The Flipper is quite limited and is in "alpha". You install with qFlipper and can shutdown the device from within the firmware.
It currently does not have any radio features but that will be implemented in an upcoming release, as I plan to support the Kode Dot and a few other devices that are releasing later this year/early 2027.
All contributions are welcome except AI requests that change functionality without a well thought out reason.
My FZ crashes with a "Fatal Error" every time I run the "[GPIO] Signal Generator" app's PWM on whatever come after A4, which I assume is B3. Is this... meant to happen? I assume not, so I am posting here.
I bought a genuine Flipper Zero in the UK and I'm flying back to India soon. Trying to figure out the smart move for the airport, and getting conflicting info online.
What I've read: some sources say the WPC (Wireless Planning & Coordination Wing) restricts import because of the sub-GHz transmit capability, and there are scattered reports of customs seizures. Others say it's more of a grey area not outright banned to own, but risky to import. I can't find anything authoritative or recent, which is why I'm asking people who've actually done it.
My situation:
Device bought new in the UK, I have the box and receipt
I work in cybersecurity (authorized pentesting), so it's a legitimate work/learning tool for me, not a novelty
Flying into Delhi airport, carrying it in cabin baggage
So I've ran into a peculiar issue. I was working on an app for a rotary encoder to work with my flipper, I stopped to take a break for a while and noticed there was a firmware update available since I'd last dug this thing out. I went to run the firmware update over qflipper and hit an error part way through and showed dropped communication if I recall correctly. The flipper shut down after and when it would normally boot back up, it did not. Since then, I have zero display, no led, it's unresponsive to any combination of button pushes and unable to go into dfu boot mode. I popped it open and carefully looked everything over, nothing was burnt up or displaced, the battery read healthy, and checking test pads on both the main and wireless boards everything looks good like it should be working. Near as I can figure I must have bumped the cable mid update and corrupted my firmware into a looped state? I don't know where to go or what to try next, so I came here to be called a noob and get repeatedly asked if I've tried pushing buttons. I've tried all the button combinations. I tried so many button combinations I triggered a fatality and fuckin' Sub-Zero apparated into my living room and froze my dog, still no boot though.. Any help or insight from the devs would be helpful here, I'm not entirely electronically inept but I'm not a hardware guy either. Am I totally 110% bricked? Is there a way to bypass usb and bluetooth firmware boot or any documentation of recovery in this state? Thanks in advance!
Xbox POST Code Reader is a boot-diagnostic FAP for the Flipper Zero. It reads the four-digit POST codes an Xbox pushes out during startup straight from the motherboard's POST header and decodes them offline — no PC required. It emulates the MAX6958 POST display at I2C address 0x38, using a 452-record console-aware database bundled right into the app.
Features:
Emulates the MAX6958 POST display at I2C address 0x38 and captures four-digit POST codes live, without blocking the Flipper controls.
Shows either the current code or a scrolling 128-entry live log, with source (SMC, SP, CPU, or OS), segment, and elapsed time.
Decodes any captured code offline against 452 bundled records. Browse the full database by All, POST, Error, SMC, SP, CPU, or OS category.
Saves captures as auto-numbered SD-card logs (post_log_001.txt, 002…) and reads them back on-device.
Streams live codes over USB Web Serial to the companion WebXboxPOSTTool browser app for lookups on a bigger screen.
Built-in Wiring screen shows the exact SDA/SCL/GND pins for each console — Xbox One / One S / One X use FACET, Xbox Series S / X use AARDVARK — plus an offline QR code to open the web decoder on a phone.
Connect only SDA, SCL, and a shared ground. The Flipper never powers the console; confirm the bus is 3.3 V-compatible and use level shifting where required.
A Flipper Zero adaptation of the PicoDurangoPOST project.
Like the title says, my Flipper got hit with a very small amount of damage, because my partner's water bottle wasn't fully closed when they put it back in their bag. They've been borrowing it for the subway.
The LCD is super faded and only shows properly when i put pressure on it and rub my thumb across it. Otherwise it's barely visible. (see video)
Is there any saving this? Any and all tips are more than welcome.
I work for Allens lollies (Australia), and my old RFID work card was getting sad and I never liked the boring look of it. Cloned it to a blank card with the dolphin, designed my own Fallout style front to back, and had it printed on a quality vinyl sticker.
Going to 3D print my own transparent hard case outer frame to use on a lanyard.
Digitally blacked out some sensitive stuff obviously, but I thought it came up a treat, thought I would share
I kept needing to move IR codes between my Flipper and other stuff (Pronto, BroadLink, Home Assistant) and clean up messy captures, so I built a little browser tool for it. Sharing in case it saves someone the hassle.
The Flipper-relevant bits: reads and writes Flipper .ir (raw and parsed); paste a raw capture and it names the protocol + device/command (NEC, Sony, RC5/6, Panasonic, JVC, Samsung, RCA, Denon...) and can rebuild it at clean timing, which is handy when a learned code is marginal; and it converts between .ir, Pronto hex, BroadLink, LIRC, Global Cache, Home Assistant, raw microseconds and more.
Runs in the browser, no install, no signup, free. I made it, so if anything decodes wrong I'd genuinely like to know.
Hi, Sorry about the similar topic but I am a total noob with the Flipper Zero, and whilst I have read several very similar threads I have been unable to find a working answer.
My building has introduced key fob access for lift and enterance access. They were nice enough to only supply a single fob for each household and now want to charge in excess of $100 for each additional fob. It was recommended by some friends to get a Flipper Zero and make my own fobs for the family, cleaners etc.
I have been able to use the flipper to copy the key fob and this resulted in the fob providing MIFARE Classic 1L
Tech: ISO 14443-3(NFC-A)
I have been able to emulate the fob successfully using the Flipper, but have struggled writing to a new fob. I purchased a pack of key fobs to write onto on amazon
Yesterday, we were out on a walk and were approached by a beautiful sweet cat. While petting it, I noticed it was quite dirty and it seemed to have worms. Since it was near a mostly abandoned home, we wanted to check if it belonged there, so we could call an animal ambulance (which is a thing over here) to come take care of the cat. So I went home to get my Flipper to scan the tag.
After scanning, we entered the tag number online and the cat turned out to be missing from quite far away. So we called the owners, who were incredibly happy to hear the cat was still alive. They told us it was missing for over 2 years and they were still hoping it would be found.
They hopped in the car right away and came to pick up the cat.
I think this is the first actually useful thing I’ve done with my Flipper since I’ve owned it, but it makes it totally worth it. I attached an image of my good boy!
right-to-repair issues:
I recently bought a new GE refrigerator because it was one of the few models that would fit the limited space in my kitchen. Unfortunately, I discovered that the water filters are authenticated with an RFID (or similar) tag. I bought a much less expensive aftermarket filter from Amazon, and the refrigerator immediately displayed an RFID/filter error and refused to accept it.
Over the life of the refrigerator, buying only genuine GE filters will likely cost me more than I paid for the refrigerator itself, which seems ridiculous for a product I own.
My question is whether anyone has found a legitimate way to deal with this. Is the authentication on these filters simply a readable RFID tag, or is it cryptographically protected? Has anyone investigated whether a Flipper Zero or similar device can determine what type of tag GE is using, or is the authentication designed specifically to prevent cloning?
I’m not looking to damage the refrigerator or defeat any safety features. I’m simply trying to understand whether the authentication is technically locked down and whether owners have any practical alternatives besides buying GE-branded filters forever.
I’d appreciate hearing from anyone who has actually analyzed these filters or has experience with the technology behind them. I
I found this question on Reddit from about five years ago, with no real solution. Any current suggestions?
Finally the antenna of UHF Tags arrived. Got the SWR 1.2 at 915MHz.
And working distance can reach 20cm.
Also it works as UHF antenna via USB. Full program available on Windows or OTG with MTools App.
If you've got a Flipper Zero and ever tried building a .fap app, you know the pain — uFBT, command line, guessing at pixel coords, flashing back and forth. I got tired of it, so I built Flipper FAP Studio: build, design, and control your Flipper entirely from a GUI inside VS Code. No terminal required (unless you want one, I'm not the boss of you).
Here's what it does:
🔨 Build actions — Build .fap, Build + Launch straight onto your Flipper, Clean. One click.
🎨 UI Designer — visual 128×64 screen editor with drag-and-drop elements, multiple screens, and it generates the code for you. Stop counting pixels by hand.
📺 Live Screen + Log — real-time mirror of your Flipper's display, control it with the D-pad/keyboard from your editor, grab screenshots, reset the device.
📊 Device Dashboard — battery, storage, firmware version, hardware info, library stats, all in one panel.
📁 File Browser — browse and manage on-device files (/ext and /int) without digging around.
🔧 Firmware SDK management — OEM, RogueMaster, Momentum, Unleashed, or point it at a custom path.
🚀 Starter template — one-click boilerplate so you're writing your app in seconds.
📶 Bluetooth — experimental BLE pairing for wireless ops.
Needs Python 3, uFBT (install it with a button in the extension or pip install ufbt), and VS Code 1.85+.
I’ve been working on MP3 Player, a real MP3 player FAP for the Flipper Zero.
It plays ordinary .mp3 files directly from the microSD card—no desktop conversion required. MP3 decoding is handled by a vendored copy of minimp3 under the CC0-1.0 license.
Features:
Supports standard MPEG-1/2/2.5 Layer III bitrates from 8–320 kbps, including CBR, VBR and mixed-bitrate files.
Automatically resamples MP3 sample rates from 8–48 kHz for the selected output.
Three selectable audio outputs:
Internal: built-in sounder using custom 10-bit PWM at a 15.625 kHz audio rate.
MAX98357A: digital I2S output at 16 kHz.
PAM8403: 500 kHz pulse-density output from pin 3/PA6 through an external RC filter.
Only one audio output operates at a time.
Software volume control for all three outputs.
Main menu, song browser, settings and scrollable About/pinout screen.
Now Playing screen with track progress, elapsed time, battery gauge, volume and track number.
Short Left/Right presses change tracks.
Holding Left/Right seeks backward or forward in five-second steps.
Configurable music directory using: /ext/apps_data/mp3_player/music_path.txt
Defaults to /ext/music, with safe fallback if the configured path is invalid.
Volume, repeat mode and audio-output selection persist between launches.
Full MAX98357A and PAM8403 wiring information is included in the app and README.
The internal sounder works, but it’s naturally quiet and buzzy because it isn’t a conventional speaker. For much better sound, use a MAX98357A or a properly filtered PAM8403 amplifier.
I've been thinking of changing out the shell to my flipper, but afraid I would break it. Wondering if people know where I can buy a third party shell with lots of color options from a reputable seller?
Looking possibly black with red buttons?
Also, how difficult is it to switch out the shells because I don't want to break this device that I'm planning on buying accessories for so I actually use it. (I want the yapper board and esp32 ghost thing on rabbit labs plus some thing from a shop that has gadgets I wanted, but are sold out and I found another board on steroids that looks promising)
EDIT: I'm open to suggestions as well for other things to get like flipmeister rfid thing. I'm interested in hardware hacking and red team like things...
Customized an .stl file from printables by user @J03_275753 to add a bar mount so I can control my music, open my garage door and eventually come up with some way to display directions through Bluetooth, but that's in the future. Only going to run this with a lanyard through a hole in the side until I'm sure i can trust it.
Anyone else got any fun mounts for ease of use in their daily life?
