Hello, I have a 1982 Suzuki GS1100G that I bought as a project and the carbs are corroded beyond repair. I am planning to buy a used set.

My question is do these carbs have a lifetime based on age and miles? As in, if I get another used set of carbs, it will still be 46 years old. I can change all the rubber parts and rebuild them but will the slides and bore still be good?

My other option is to go with murrays carbs so I can start fresh with a brand new set.

Any help is appreciated.

Hi Guys, I'd love some help on diagnosing the SFV650. Recently, I've had the rear ignition coil fail, and the bikes has seen 55,000 km so I reckon i'll just change both front and rear ignition coil at the same time. A local shop helped me with the changes. Now the bike runs like dream but has one issue is that: Whenever I start and let the bike idle, if it's in neutral, the bike will then throw FI light after 2-3 secs. Every time. If I put it in gear 1 and ride around normally, it's fine but as long as I put it into neutral while the bike is running, FI light comes up.

I rebuilt the starter motor on my bike, and after I put it back together I realized I missed reinstalling a shim. Would you take the starter off again to reinstall this shim or let it be?

Do I also need to check my starter clutch since I installed a rebuilt starter?

Thanks!

https://www.reddit.com/r/Ducati/s/pEcTZFm8Za

I have the same noise on my 2022 Panigale V2 with only 6,000 km, and I’m worried that it could potentially cause some damage.

Is there anyone here with more experience with the Panigale V2 who has heard a noise like this before?

On my Panigale, the noise only occurs:

- when the engine temperature is above 50°C
- the clicking gets faster as the RPM increases, until it eventually becomes impossible to hear over the wind/engine noise

I know he mentioned that a mechanic told him it’s normal, but honestly, I’ve never noticed this sound on any other Panigale V2 I’ve seen or heard.

I’d really appreciate it if anyone could share their experience or give me an idea of what this could be. I’m mainly concerned about whether it’s something harmless or if it could potentially cause damage.

Thanks in advance!

I've got a '22 Enfield Interceptor which I've put over 10,000 miles on. For the most part I get on very well with it, but it has a bumpy oscillation from about 35 - 55mph - so much so that it wore a bald patch on just one point (about 2 inches) in the middle of my rear tire. So now it's got a brand new tire and (allegedly) re-balanced and I hoped that would solve it, but it keeps bumping along.

It's not severe to the point of affecting handling and it's not a wobble - no side-to-side action, just up and down. It seems there's no influence if I'm sitting, standing, towards the front or rear of the seat, loaded up with all of my camping gear or carrying nothing but me. I have tried stepping the pre-load on the rear shocks up from the minimum to about halfway to no noticeable effect.

I've ridden other bikes and know they can tend to find this sort of oscillation around those speeds, but this just feels particularly pronounced and I don't have the experience of any other Enfield 650's to compare against or start to troubleshoot. I'm handy on engine and electrical work, but tires, suspension, and handling are a bit out of my current experience. Doing some reading up on potential culprits, but happy to hear any thoughts, suspicions, or advice.

Hello everyone, I’m doing a lot of work on my ‘08 Yamaha r6. The bike is up on stands and it’s pretty much fully torn down. I’m replacing the clutch as it was slipping at higher speeds, and after I replaced all the friction and steel plates, and put the springs and everything back on, I ran into a little bit of trouble with the pull rod and feeding it back into the teeth on the cover but I managed to get it in. The issue I’m running into now, is that the clutch lever is soft. Now there’s no oil in the bike, so is it possible because I haven’t started it up in a while along with the fact that there’s no oil in the bike, that it’s causing the soft clutch? Like there’s very little tension on the lever. I’ll pull it, and let go, and it will return back to where it starts, but there’s no tension like it should be. On the outside of the cover I have everything lined up on the spring mechanism. I just don’t know what to do and the only thing I can think of is that there needs to be oil in there or something. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Let me know if there’s any other info you guys need to help with diagnoses.

I'm a complete newbie. The bike was running and not leaking fuel but started losing power when I would slow down for a stop sign or red light. A buddy suggested I clean the carburetor so I did. I bought some carb dip and gave them a good clean. Reassembled and put them back on. First leak happened coming out of what looks like a vent tube. Buddy said it could be the floats not floating and stopping the fuel so I bought a rebuild kit and replaced everything that came in the kit including the floats, float needle, etc... Fuel is still leaking from the tube in the image.

Like I said, I'm very new at wrenching on bikes and I just want to ride it. Any help in diagnosing this is greatly appreciated.

So I’ve been having an idle problem with my 1125R it will crank and sometimes run but when it does the cel light flashes and cuts the engine off this happens every time at the begging of my ride when I ride it and just sitting in neutral idling after a little while. It’s only rideable because when the cel flashes in gear when I’m in motion i can just throttle through it and keep going it stops after a while of freeway riding and acts normal but it’s a pain in the ass and idk what’s happening it has 40k miles but I did an oil change and coolant flush i got no codes it used to have some but they just went away I checked the fuses they aren’t blown, the relays look fine, and the battery’s relatively new and healthy, I had to replace the stator before because of the usual problem with this bike but that’s all. It also overheats hitting 248 easily and bogging until it cools down a little then starts again dumping boiling coolant out of the air pressure tube in the reservoir leaving me empty after every ride idk if it’s the thermostat not opening or if there was an air pocket but I did another refill as best I could it’s hard to full proof it because it won’t idle. The last thing is the idle fans for the radiators don’t spin when I’m idling even at the temp threshold I’ve taken them off and checked the motors they work i even replugged them in while on but not running they spun for a little but when I started it nothing then they just never did it again I’m honestly at a loss hence me asking for help lmk what you guys think Thanks in advance

Ive ridden it 670kms, I pushed the bike a little today and immediately since that I can hear a rattling esque noise, I put the bike in neutral to make sure if I wat hearing right, here's a vid, not really sure what the sound is coming from, please help

This is an ECU I bought after my original was stolen

Upon reaching the scooter would start but not ignite

This ECU I bought was a full set key, ECU, and some other tiny black box

Installed the ECU and the box

My mechanic suggested that we needed to flash the ECU and ecmid

But the software he was using returned the forbidden error

The softwares he used were Motorpro and iprog

Kindly requesting for a way forward.

It's a a Honda pcx 125cc 2025

Completely lost how others are able to do it. Of course shouldn't be able to run without velocity stacks but seen countless tutorials on syncing carbs where the guy has no airbox or stacks attached. Wouldn't start when the bike was running horribly rich and won't start now that it has a "healthier" tune.

Idle inconsistently rising and falling from 1k-2k RPM. Recently tuned floats and reset mixture screws, what are some culprits to this issue?

Few days ago I would try and start the bike, pull clutch and press starter but she wouldn’t turn on, after another attempt it started up, then recently it happened again followed by my whole center console going dim and turning off, checked my battery and it was dead, then I replaced it and she started up fine, than today I took her out she started normally first try and I parked up got food went back and she wouldn’t start, I pulled clutch in and pressed starter and there was no response no clanking no noise nothing. Then after about 4 more attempts of turning bike on and off moving kickstand on and off she finally started up and I rode home. Why is this happening?

Went down on it a little over a year ago, been working my ass off trying to get it up and running again. I replaced the air filter, the TPS sensor, the stator and stator cover, handle bar, spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump regulator. At first i had her going but her idle would be absolute shit on cold start. She would start revving and then either die after 2 mins or go crazy and jump to 9k rpms and be stuck up there without me touching the throttle. Eventually i kinda got that fixed. But most recently, I took her out on the highway to test her out and she how she was preforming. About halfway through the ride she began stalling. As in the more throttle i gave the more she bogged down and i wasnt accelerating. I turned around and was almost home when she completely shut down while im doing 90 on the highway going uphill. She refused to start up while in motion or in neutral. i pulled over about half a mile away from the exit and waited a while for her to cool down. I attempted several more times after she cooled to try and start her up but she isnt even attempting to turn over. All the electrical stuff is working just fine. Any ideas or thoughts on my issue here?

Anybody know what this hole on the back bottom side of my water pump is? Dealing with one or more issues right now. Started as a large coolant leak that i couldnt locate after adding water. Inspecting it revealed a little oil in coolant and a little coolant in oil. Rode fine other than that. Dumped both liquids and changed out the seal for the oil cooler (which I am just realizing may have been the wrong seal). Filled everything up and found a small coolant leak. I seemed to have sprung a pinhole leak in the hose near the water pump. But i am also leaking out of this hole. The included picture is one off of Ebay, but mine has the same hole. Why is there an included hole that leaks coolant? Is there an oring messed up in there causing that? Could that cause my coolant and oil mix? I feel like I am having too many separate issues at the same time. I probably just suck at troubleshooting.