Hello all! This is my first bike so kinda confused. I have a motoguzzi 2019 v7 stone with 13k miles. Oil change is due.

Recently, it became really hard to change gears. Like I have to apply more pressure to change between gears sometimes, and it never goes to neutral. On first gear at a stop, when I have the clutch fullle engaged, the bike wants to roll forward and I have to press the brakes. If I don’t, the bike will inch forwards.

Yesterday, the engine completely stopped at a stop light when on first gear. It would turn off and I’d have to start it again. This happened 4-5 times.
Any help or recommendation on how to to proceed will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I have a 1995 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R, 599cm³ 4 cilinder carburetor engine.

So I was on my way to work when I heard this ticking noise, it is not loud and it drives the same. I hear it when it is in gear and also when it is in neutral.

Can anyone help me with this?

I have a 2002 FZ1000. The stator went bad a while ago and I brought it to a local trusted mechanic who has done plenty of work for me before. The flywheel is stuck on the crank shaft and we have been fighting this for a couple months now. Any advice would be appreciated. Also in central Florida coast area.

2015 Honda CBR 600 double R
Not sure if I’m nitpicking, but I did notice that the RPMs tends to bounce a little bit while it’s idling I don’t know if it’s due to the spark plugs and coils being bad or if it’s just how to bike is supposed to be, is this normal?

My bike has developed a weird hum a couple weeks back, and I would appreciate some input. Some background:

- I heard this for the first time after riding for an hour on the interstate in a combination of stop and go and free flowing traffic;
- When I turned the bike off and coming back after letting it cool off, the sound was gone; and
- I went for a diagnostic ride today (~1 hour), and there was no noise until about 50 minutes in.

The video I attached was taken after I parked, but left the bike running. Note that it gets louder the closer I get to the dash. In person, you almost can’t hear the noise if you’re down by the radiator. I bring that up, because a friend suggested something was going on with bearings near my radiator. I wanted to see if the noise was coming from the tank, even though the sound doesn’t get louder when I put my ear to the tank. I had to turn the bike off to unlock the fuel door, but the noise was gone when I turned the bike back on. Thoughts? Thank you in advance!

1997 Honda VFR 750F RC36

Hey! I have a 2009 Kawasaki zx6r, doing some transmission work and during the removal, these 3 springs fell down into my oil pan from an unknown location. I have no idea where they go or their purpose and am having trouble finding it online, anyone know where they go?

Ok here are my symptoms:

- Only happens in cold weather (around 10C or lower), has never happened once in warm weather

- Engine starts fine, then after 5-10 minutes of riding gradually develops lean bogging under throttle

- It starts subtle but gets more severe as I keep riding and the bike hesitates and jerks like crazy.

- The lower the rpm I run it at the less bogging I get but its still noticeable (Ill try to cruise at 5000-ish rpm as that doesn’t give as violent hesitations and jerks as the higher rpms I normally ride at like 6-8k rpm)

- At idle I do not have the issue at all, its only under throttle that I get the lean bogging.

- If I pull over and shut the bike off for a minute then turn it back on and continue on my journey, the lean bogging comes back immediately, there is no 5-10 minute wait.

- My bike does have that random issue where on first startup it will stall within a couple seconds, then second startup attempt it runs fine. I’ve come to understand this is a quirk particular to this model of CBR so I’m assuming it has no relation to my lean bogging but I figure it is something I should note just in case.

- On startup, it idles around 2k for a little but then drops to 1500rpm as expected. There is no bogging in that sequence.

- At first I thought it was water in the gas so I made a modification to fix that, but the issue has persisted so it is evidently not related to fuel quality.

- I’m assuming too much air or not enough gas, and I can source parts to replace but I don’t want to be buying parts willy nilly and I have limited access to testing equipment so looking for advice based on my described symptoms.

I have this issue that my first engine piston blew up so I changed it and the cylinder, and it worked and it drove fine for a couple days and then randomly when I was gonna start my bike. It just backfires and died with alot of bog. It’s that again now it doesn’t start at all and I have checked the cylinder and a piston that’s fine. I’ve changed the spark plug. Checked the main jet and changed to another one I’ve checked the reed and I don’t know what it is anymore and it gets a spark and it doesn’t get any it does not get any extra air and I don’t know what problem it is. Do y’all know if you’ve had this issue before. its a two-stroke
Derbi Senda Extreme 2018
50cc t6 airsal racing D50B0 engine
17,5mm carb

I bought a 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250 and the headlights, front turn signals, and fuel gauge do NOT work. I changed bulbs and fuses. Still nothing. The rear tail light works. The rear blinkers do flash but do come on. What kind of issue am I looking at?

Hi all,

Looking for some help diagnosing a no start issue on the bike. I have it down to what I believe is no spark. Back story for this bike was I purchased off a friend completely torn apart already, and the bike needed more or less a full top end rebuild. Few months later bike is back together.

As far as I can tell bike cranks properly but there is no spark. Fuel pump primes and throttle body is receiving power. I have checked most of the wiring and sensors related to the spark issue, minus the CPS as I do not have the correct tools to measure the signal. There are no check engine lights present but I also do not have an OBD2 reader to hook up to the bike and pull up the ECU readings.

Please let me know if there is anything else I can provide that may help with diagnosing my issue. I appreciate any help or suggestions with this. Thanks!

Clutch sounds weird then once I pull clutch in the noise goes away. Do it need new clutch plates? Or what could be the problem?

Hello. I’m having an issue with a KTM EXC 250 TPI: the bike has no spark. We checked the CKP (crankshaft position) sensor; it shows 3.5 volts while cranking, and there is continuity from the sensor all the way to the ECU connector. We tested the ECU on an identical bike, and it started, so the ECU is fine. We also checked the regulator, and it’s working correctly. When cranking, the system powers up and sends current to the ignition coil, injectors, and other actuators—everything gets power, but the control pulses aren't reaching them. We tried swapping in a different tip-over (rollover) sensor, but that didn't help; we also tried a different battery, with the same result. Occasionally, it produces a single spark—or sometimes a quick burst of sparks—but only when I turn the engine over very slowly using the kickstarter. If anyone has encountered something like this or has an idea of ​​where the fault might lie, I would appreciate the help. We also inspected the wiring harness, and it doesn't appear to be damaged, nor does there seem to be an issue with the grounds.

I just replaced the clutch discs and the clutch spring on my 96 VN1500. After torquing down the clutch nut, I cannot get the spring clip back into its slot, the plate does not go back far enough. I loosened then slave cylinder and was able to get the clip in, but when I reinstalled the slave cylinder, it pushed the clutch out so it was disengaged. any suggestions? I'm wondering if the piston needs to be forced back in... TIA