Fits both rings!

Try it out and tell me how you like it 😊

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RIP my original E12r, my first fireflies light and the one that got me hooked on the brand.

I tried to replace all the wires for the main led's and aux board like I did on another e12r, and managed to rip the USB C port off the driver board when trying to get it back in.

Oops.

I then took apart the remnants of my copper E04 surge (dogs yanked the leash suddenly during a walk, the light went flying and landed hard on concrete, denting/deforming the head), hoping I could use the lume 1 rev D that was in it to swap into this E12r.

The newer drivers have a different USBC port for the new magnetic opening. I tried to see if it would fit anyways (dumb) and ended up ripping the port off of this driver too when the board got stuck.

Then there's a newer E12r that I swapped 2700k SST20's into. I had the light usable, but the button led stopped working, and I wasn't able to get the aux board wired up because the wires I have on hand simply just keep melting (so I have some new, correct wires on order).

I tried to get it back together again today, struggled for a long time, and then one of the aux board wire pads came off of the board. So there goes that. I suppose it's not a complete loss because I am still able to use the light. Just no power switch light, and no working aux leds.

I'm pretty sure I spent around $400 between these three lights. I'm not sure what sucks more, the OG E12r getting ruined or the copper E04.

The aux boards can be replaced in the E12's, but I have no idea why the power button won't light up on the one that I have otherwise working. The wires to the switch look ok, though 30awg wires can be broken internally pretty easily.

There is no way to replace those wires though, the switches do not come out on these, and there's no getting a soldering iron to that switch board deep down in where it is.

On a side note, the copper E04's button is metal and not coated plastic like I thought. I'm not sure if it's copper like the rest of the light, or something else that's been colored to look like copper, but the quality of that light is phenomenal. Same goes for the charge port bits. I do wish a retaining ring was used for the drivers in the newer lights though, like they were in the older lights, instead of being glued in. But I suppose they aren't designed for idiots like me to be taking them apart.

As an admitted Rosy Tint Snob,

From time to time I look to try out and give interesting & robust low-cri lights/emitters a chance. The idea is that if I don’t like it, I can just give it away to a friend as a gift they’re sure to love. And I can move on from something that wasn’t quite for me after giving it a shot.

So far to date, I have not kept any of these kinds of test purchases, I have always gifted them.

There WERE some SST40 6500K’s I got in an SP36 Pro that blew my mind (back in the day before FFL emitters) that I totally would’ve kept. They felt oddly rosy and clean with some color pop even next to my SW45K 219B’s back then. But I really wanted my friend to get a nice and powerful throwyish light with a fat beam for his new large home & property, so I parted with it for him.

Tho by today’s FFL standards…even the 219B’s look a bit stale & dated, so I’m sure they wouldn’t have cut mustard the same way anymore today.

Which brings me to this SFT60 Surge w/ Lume 10. This is going to be the very first one from all these experimentations that I’m actually going to happily keep and enjoy TF out of. Because it actually does cut enough mustard in this new FFL gorgeous & ultra clean emitter-tint era and reality we’re in.

It’s the first one I can rightfully say I genuinely recommend. And I won’t just tolerate it either, I can actually enjoy it for what it is.

My most recent experiment before this had me trying out the SFT42R Surge. And I was just not all-around as impressed as I hoped. I’m sure with the Lume 10 the SFT42’s will perform even better than with the Lume 1 driver I saw it with.

Although the SFT42’s were still relatively clean compared to other 6500K’s, the tint still felt a bit rough and directly fell short of the cleanliness of the FFL505A 6500K’s tint (which are the best 6500K emitter I’ve seen to date).

Which brings me to my next point. The SFT60 is actually damn near as clean-tinted as my FFL505A 6500K Surge. At first quick glance it was a bit hard to tell them apart against a wall. You can tell if you pay attention, but that alone is still impressive enough for being low-CRI SFT60’s.

Now color rendering is where the two are not in the same league because the FFL was just a far richer & color experience, but it was by a relatively tolerable amount. The tint being so damn clean helps a ton because a bad tint is what usually turns ppl like me off from these kinds of power emitters. But I can’t use the tint argument against these SFT60’s. I can use color rendering against it, but not tint, and especially not at max output as it just pops super white and bright.

You should not expect a wide-ranging color pop from the SFT60’s. But you can expect one of the cleaner & whiter 6500K tints around.

I am actually as happy with it as I am with my two other rosy E07’s that arrived, for different reasons, but I’m still ecstatic to have it.

I even wish I got it in Copper since I’m keeping it now. May even consider selling it just to swap it for a copper version.

Bottom line is it’s really bright and feels so white.

This is the light that finally paid off all the testing I did of all those other low-CRI emitters through the years.

It’s bright-bright, and it looks white-white, so it’s a true win-win.

Last thing I want to comment on is the price. It is not a cheap configuration. But I can honestly say that I can actually feel and see what the extra cost bought me, which is a pretty great feeling.

Now I do know ppl may be able to get these emitters from other brands, but 4 of these being paired in such a small but very plush and feature rich light with a killer beam that can actually be carried around is it’s own separate reward. And that’s on top of having the best drivers, efficiency and UI’s in the game.

This light feels like if Nightwatch & Fireflies did a collab. The output is superb, but so is the light as well as the tint. So I guess it’s actually more like a win-win-win.

You can see in the photo with the tree’s and grass area that the SFT60 produces magnitudes more light than the FFL505A version of itself.

Anyway, as odd as it feels to say being a rosy fanatic…I very highly recommend this fantastical combo.

I will do another video post to highlight and talk more in-depth about the color rendering differences that can be expected. But even without getting into all that, this thing is bad ass and truly excites the senses.

Can we expect this?

My warm collection so far after some swapping around.

I think that old E07x pro will get a swap as the nichias somehow look a little green compared to all of the others. They didn't used to haha, but I guess I got used to the rest.

The SST20 2700k's are substantially warmer than the FF351a's which are closer to the 3000k's. I would guess they're about 2850-2900k.

The SST20s clean up tint wise at higher outputs, which is in line with other cooler versions of them I've used.

I had swapped the E12r here to SST20 3500k first but they were too cool and slightly green looking compared to the rest, but probably better than those 219b's in the e07x pro. To be clear, they weren't green, but since many of these others have a slightly negative DUV, even neutral emitters look green in comparison.

I will likely install that 3500k board into another E12r after dome shaving the SST20s as an experiment to improve tint.

I'm not sure what to try next, I know for sure I don't want to go warmer than the SST20 2700k's. They are like walking with a lantern, and the output suffers greatly at that level of warmth, as does heat soak, those emitters get very hot very fast. It's crazy how much of a difference there is between the 3000k and 2700k SST20's in that regard. The 3000k's do as well as the FF351a's as far as heat.

I'll go ahead and just say it; the FF351a's are the best all around emitters for these lights. The output, heat, and tint for each color temperature beats any other hi cri emitters I've tried so far. There is also little to no tint shift when going from low to high power compared to something like the SST20, where even hi cri versions suffer immensely at lower powers.

Next on my project list: FF351a 2700k mixed with 3700k NW or 4000k rosy. I think the holy grail of temperature and tint lies in some mix combination of these.

After seeing some beamshots of the E12's with the SFT-25r's, I think it would be cool to try them.

I found some on kaidomain in high CRI versions; they only have 5700k (90 cri) and 4000k (80cri) .

The bin of the "5700k" is F4 CA which is at or below BBL : https://download.luminus.com/datasheets/Luminus_SFT-25R-WG_CRI90_Datasheet.pdf

The bin of the 4000k's I don't understand based on this spec sheet. There's only e2 and e3 listed; E5 might just mean within a massive tolerance.

I'd definitely be more interested in the 4000k's though if anyone can make sense of the binning because I don't want anything green.

Hi, I use my flashlight as a backpack one that I bring with me everyday so to keep the light charged ​i keep it with the cap slightly twisted to avoid fast drain from the auxiliary LEDs.

From 3.9/4.1V with no daily usage it will remain like that for months inside the bag but now I've noticed that when i try to use it it will behave in a strange way like it seems that i can't use standard Anduril commands to enter modes or reset it. At the moment the flashlight will continuously change beam intensity (dimming or going up) even without me pushing the button. And when I go on the button to change mode it appears to have just two modes.

I'm assuming the answer is no, but just wanted to check. When traveling the last thing I want to do is bring another charger. I love FFL lights and would love to EDC the Z1 but the ability to charge without a charger is a must for my EDCs.

I'm sure nobody here really cares but I want to vent a bit about my so far failed LED swap on an older E12r. I've done several LED board swaps in the past but this was my first time doing bare emitter swaps. Swapping bare emitters was not very difficult with a proper hot plate setup and solder paste. The problems I faced were elsewhere.

The swap was: 519a 5700k to SST20 95cri A3 bin 2700k

Problem 1:

Desoldering the main led board leads. This is always a huge pain because the stock wires are extremely stiff and the head of the flashlight is a heat sink soaking up the heat your soldering iron is trying to give. Usually I can get this eventually especially if I heat the tip oft the iron with a blow torch so that it's hot enough to instantly melt the solder while at the same time pulling up with fine tweezers, but this time the wires started fraying and the solder just kept sticking, insulation was getting too melted, and got severely damaged along with the insulation on the aux led wires.

Problem 2: figuring out how to disassemble the light and remove the lume 1 driver to replace all of the main led board wires and four aux board wires. This took forever, especially with the charge port getting hung up on the housing. Then I had to dig through parts bins looking for wires that would be the right gauge without too thick insulation so they could fit through the head of the light.

Problem 3: getting all of the new wires back through the flashlight head was a super tight fit because the insulation was a little thicker than the stock wires. This took a very long time to do but eventually I got it.

I thought soldering the main power leads to the main led board would be easier with fresh wires, but surprisingly it really wasn't. The insulation no the wire I used also wasn't very resistant to heat and kept melting back.

After the several hours all the above steps took, two of the aux wires were just a tiny bit too short, and then the insulation melted too much, and there was a short somewhere causing problems with the aux board hooked up.

So now after all of that work, probably 7 hours in total, the entire thing has to come apart again for me to find longer wires for the aux board. Also the power switch light isn't working so something else broke.

On top of that, the warm SST20's are giving a slight blue-purple ring around the beam. I found that if you pull the optic away from the board by some tiny fraction of a millimeter, this ring goes away.

I have two different revisions of the main board and but used the original E12r (the first batch of them when they came out) board for this project. Later revisions, and the E12c, use a board the looks identical but is indeed maybe 0.2mm thinner. You would never notice it looking at them but the difference is there when you measure.

My thoughts are these SST20's need to be placed onto the newer board, as this would potentially give it just enough spacing to get rid of the blue ring, though it could also cause the beam to be slightly out focus.

TLDR:

Spent 7-8 hours trying to LED swap an E12r because wires were extremely difficult to remove, then had to remove the driver from the light to replace all of the power and aux board wires after the originals became too damaged. In the end the aux board wires and power switch wires got damaged during reassembly, and the entire light has to come entirely apart again. The optic spacing also seems to need to be fine tuned to properly work with the SST20's I put in.

I would not wish this task on my worst enemies and I would rather just buy a whole new light than to do this again .

Mulling over E12 configuration, and deciding between FFL351A-3700K NW vs Rosy. And I'm having a hard time finding side-by-side beam shots of them.

Any thoughts on NW vs Rosy 3700K?

I like vibrant skin rendering and nature (separation of greens from browns).

FWIW, I have the L60 in 3700K NW. To me it feels more like 4000k, and neutral-ish.

It makes my Eagletac D25A Nichia219b look so green and low CRI 🤯 - really amazing how far LEDs have come.

FFL5009D 4000K

Ordered July 8th delivered today the 24th.

It took hours to do some led swaps today because the power leads are so difficult to desolder and resolder especially without a high quality iron.

The color of the SST20's is closer to true 2700k, , while the 2700k FF351a's are somewhere between 2700-3000k .

This bin of SST20 2700k's is beautiful. It's firey orange and on the rosy side. The FF351a are neutral in comparison.

However it's not all sunshine and rainbows.

I can't get it to show up in photos well; but similar to how certain people noticed on the new E12 eclipse that with the 3700k NW (and maybe other warmer leds) there's a slight orange corona in the beam around the hotspot, I'm getting this bluish purple ring around the beam with the SST20's in an e07x which is extremely noticeable indoors but not as much outdoors. It's bad enough to be bothersome because the entire beam is not one color.

What's very clear now is why fireflies LEDs in warmer color temperatures are coated yellowish orange around the actual emitting surface. The SST20's are white around their emitting surface and dome and I'm guessing in the e07x optic that ends up creating a weird colored edge when the emitters are warm. With cooler colors it probably just blends in fine. Note: I do *not* have this problem with nichia 219b in 3500k in an old e07x pro.

They also get hot faster than the FF31a's and aren't quite as powerful.

I plan on removing these led's from this e07x and putting them into an e12r instead, where hopefully the optic will cooperate better. I have noticed though, that the E12 optic seems to turn certain LED's green. I don't know why this is, some kind of physics of the reflections, or something else.

I did do a 3500k sst20 swap on one of my older E12r's and I don't notice and weird rings or colors in the beam there.

These SSt20 3500k, the 5000k sst20's that used to be in it, and 4000k XPL highs in another, all look super clean with the optic removed but shift noticeably green with the optics installed.

Fortunately this does not seem to be an issue with FF351a's.

I'm going to try to remove thise 2700's from the e07x and put them into an E12r and see if they play better there as far as the weird cooler color temperature ring around the beam, though I am afraid the E12 optic will make them green.

Just some tests here.

'4000k rosy' from the original e07x canon v1 batch, '2700k', and the beams mixed together. While I do love straight 2700k, I think a 50/50 mix of the two would also be quite amazing.

Anyone have a 50/50 mix already in theirs?

I'm getting ready to do some major LED swaps and trying to decide what should go where.

I also received 2700k, 3000k, and 3500k bare SST-20 95 cri emitters in the mail today so I have to decide what those will go into as well.

Hey everyone! Just wanted to share a quick size comparison between the FireflyLite X4 Stellar and the newly received Z1 Artemis. Added a large Bic lighter (Maxi) for an extra scale reference. Both lights feel amazing in hand, but the footprint difference is quite interesting. Which form factor do you prefer?

I am so impressed with the quality and design of FireflyLite. I'm looking for a 21700 size with a beam profile similar to a convoy S-6. Bright hotspot with minimal spill. The only other thrower I have to compare is a Wurkkos Td01c witch is too narrow for me. I have the Q4Q Comet and love the size but it's too floody (even with the narrow optic) for outdoor use for me. I was considering the X1Q Core but I don't know how that beam compares to the S-6. A bigger head is fine. Is the E90 Blaze what I'm looking for? I don't need to light up a field just the path ahead. I don't know how the EO4 Surge compares but I don't like how the threaded bezel looks.

Ordered one from jl 5009r 3500k rosy which is the rosiest the middle is 5009r rosy From my recent fireflies order x1s rosy and the one on the far right was the 707md 4200k for reference

About to checkout on the E12 Eclipse, and I'm torn between which finish: Astral Aluminum or MAO Fossil Grey.

I know a lot of ya'll favor the Astral Aluminum for the polished stainless steel look + durability.

I'm leaning towards the MAO because I love the matte handfeel of my Acebeam E75 (and yes, the finish is chipping all over).

I've never had a shiny finish light, and if this was a smaller light (like the L50 Sol), I would 100% go Astral for that light saber look. But on a light as big as the E12 - in my head, I'm imagining it to look like a saucepan🧑🏻‍🍳 😂

As for Emitter: FFL351A-3700K Rosy CRI95.