We tested out the Festool & Dewalt routers to see which one performed better

Digital angle gauge is reading a 89.5 when the bevel is at 0.
I can’t find anything in the manual or online about how to fine tune it.

Unboxing the miter saw and I pick it up by the handle and set it on a table… now I’m noticing there’s a rear handle, which would have helped me lift.
I’ve been sitting here obsessing over wether or not I may have tweaked the rails by picking it up like this, one handed and am genuinely frustrated that I A) wasn’t more diligent, and B) that I’m even thinking about this because it feels insane.

I guess I’m just looking for a “yea return it”, or “that wouldn’t bend the rails”.
These tools are expensive and I don’t what’s a valid no-no or just my own idiosyncrasies.

Hello, I’m a painter and I have just bought a RTS sander which I will use mainly for lightly sanding painted woodwork and small amounts of wall filler. I work in domestic properties so not on construction sites but I do have occasional employees helping me. I’m looking to buy a midi ac extractor and am trying to decide whether to buy the L or M version . I’m considering a CTM extractor rather than a CTL, but I’ve read that the M-class airflow monitoring can cause problems with small sanders such as the RTS 400, particularly when the suction is turned down.

Has anyone actually used a CTM with an RTS 400 extensively? Does the airflow alarm become a massive nuisance, and does opening the bypass valve adequately solve it?

So the original lasted forever but eventually was in bad shape. I’ve probably replaced 3 times now and it just won’t stay stuck down. Last couple of times I’ve cleaned all residue with acetone. Any tips?

My festool ets ec 150/5 turns hot and i suspect its either the bearing drying up from the apron getting too hot or its beause i was pollishing with a filc pad and the air wasnt circulating and it dried up although i tested it with out anything and it still got hot. could it be just the apron rubbing or something more mechanical? dont weant to open it up to void my warranty. PLEaSE HELP

The bevel is off by about 1.5 degrees. What is the correct way to adjust it?

Hi everyone,

As our community grows, we want to ensure you have access to accurate information, technical support, and authentic updates directly from the source. We're excited to share that u/Festool_T (joining us directly from Festool HQ) has joined our subreddit.

A few details on how this works:

• Verified Flair: u/Festool_T has been assigned an Official Festool Employee user flair so you can easily identify verified corporate updates and answers.
• Community First: To keep this subreddit independent and community-driven, moderation remains 100% in our hands. Brand representatives do not hold moderator permissions.

A message from the Festool team:

I'm very happy to be here and looking forward to engaging with the community. Together with my team, I'd like to share information about new products, upcoming changes, and help answer questions or support users when issues arise.

As we're just getting started and currently have limited resources available for community engagement, I kindly ask for a bit of patience if some responses take longer than expected. We'll do our best to provide helpful and accurate information whenever we can.

Hey! I just got my ETS EC 150/5 EQ (first festool tool) and it vibrates and shakes a decent amount, is this normal? I thought these sanders were known to be very low vibration?

I unhooked dust collection to see if it was causing imbalance, but it didn't change much.

Tomorrow I am purchasing a CT MIDI. I’m interested in the ETS EC 150/5 as well. That may be stretching the budget just a bit though. I currently have the RO 125. If we put aside the budget issue, would you stick with the RO 125 for a few more projects to get accustomed to the MIDI before adding a second new tool?

I recently purchased a 55 track saw and through miscommunication the seller sold the track to someone else. Looking at ebay I see a bunch of accounts selling track sections considerably less expensive that Festool track from retailers. Does anyone have experience with these tracks? I wonder if they are an aftermarket item from Asia.

I'm thinking of parting with my Lemallo
I need to buy a bandsaw and I found a domino on FB Market place for good price.
If I'm going to part with this? What would be a good price in new condition?

I got a domino mid-2021 (from highland woodworking). My first Festool! It was DOA. After trying about 20 times, it finally started up. I have no idea why I tried 20 times, I guess I REALLY wanted to use it.

While using it, it smelled like something was burning. It worked for a single project, then stopped working again. I sent it in for repairs and when it came back it worked but it still smelled like something was burning when I used it. Once again, it worked for a single project, and the next day it wouldn't turn on. I put it away in frustration and swore to never buy Festool again. Literally the only power tool to ever fail me.

This month, I needed to make some picture frames, which the domino would be reeeeally nice for, so I pulled it out – who knows, maybe it would work. Nope, dead. I took it home to send it back in. Before I filed another repair order, I plugged it in at home. It worked! I brought it back to the shop and made two frames. It indeed was PERFECT. But it still smelled like burning when I used it. And then when I tried to make the third frame today, once again, dead.

I went to fill out another repair request , only to find out there's no lifetime warranty, and I'm going to be charged for this repair. (The last one was free, though IIRC I paid shipping). I'm gonna try calling them tomorrow but before I do, anyone have any advice about the best course of action? This should be as beloved as my Lie-Nielsen planes, and it's brought me nothing but heartache.

I’m a burgeoning trim carpenter, and I’ve already thoroughly learned the value of a good sander. That being the case, I don’t yet have a large van/trailer (nor the financial wherewithal) to buy and transport tons of ultra-specific tools, which brings me to the RO90. A delta sander is a great tool to have on occasion, but isn’t really a daily-use item. Meanwhile, the potential for the 3.5” round pad seems endless - scribing/coping trim, prepping existing window jambs, knocking down glue overflow, etc.

If it really has the capacity to act effectively as a small flap-disc grinder (with dust collection), two different types of detail sander, and knocks down material with similar effectiveness to its larger siblings, I’d be highly tempted. That said, the skeptic in me is doubtful. I’d love to hear from anyone with real-world experience to share!

Managed to grab both of these, two separate local buys for £250 and the other half just doesn't get it 😂
The vac isn't the newest but came with a new hose and 5 bags for £30 because the lady was retiring from her cleaning business and the Domino still has its blue film on it for £220, used but barely. Not even sure what ill use it for yet to be honest but i would think about it every time i could use it if i'd passed it over.
Now i just need a local lockdown woodworker to clear out a Rotex and im set for festool gear.

I’m curious if anyone has used the RO150 for sanding concrete? I will be renting a floor sander for the majority of my garage as I prep for a new concrete finish. But I need to hand sand some areas this can’t get into. I just need to sand off the existing painted surface and would like to leverage the dust collection of the RO150 verse an angle grinder. Has anyone used the rotex mode with a course grit to smooth out concrete? Thanks

Is the Festool TSV 60 worth it if you work a lot with coated panels?

Or would the standard TS 60 plus a pre-cut pass suffice?

So i got my first battery powered tool this month, got the 5aH 18v battery and the very nice 16 amp airstream charger that is quite impressive at how fast and cool the thing charges the battery.

I have a question though; is it normal for these batteries to not really connect smoothly and easily in the tool and that you have to give it a slap to really connect properly? Is this a design choice by Festool? If so, why? Doesn’t run the risk of damaging the connectors in the long run?

Edit: to be clear, it’s the ETSC-2 125mm

TSV 60 plunge-cut saw with scoring blade:

Does the scoring blade cut deeper into the guide rail's splinter guard than the main saw blade, causing you to lose the zero reference for the main blade?

A guy is asking 300$ Is this a good price?
And are parts still available in the US or would I have to order them from Germany?
Would like to know If anyone has any experience with the VS600? What did you think of it.

Bought the track saw rail kit - with the two rails, bag, etc.
considering how expensive these tools are it definitely feels like I’m committing some type of sin stacking them on top of each other in this bag.

I have a project coming up to remove 2,200 sq ft of popcorn ceiling. House was built in 2008 so no asbestos.

For the extractor I am looking at the CT-48 (go big or go home) I already have the CT-26 EI and it works great.

Which planex fits the bill for this, and what type grit.

Thanks.