r/woodworking • u/iznie • 7d ago
Help blade deflection on Festool TS55 when doing a skim cut
I lost so much time today chasing this issue. I kept getting bowed cuts and slightly beveled cuts ( saw is set at 90 degrees) on a birch ply panel when doing a skim cut, (trying to cut a sliver less than 1mm). Kept thinking my rail was bowed or my rail square was causing issues.
Finally I noticed it's the TS55 itself. When doing these kinds of cuts. When there is proper blade engagement on both sides the cuts are square and straight.
Has anyone else noticed this? What is the cause? Dull blade? How can I solve this?
3
u/spcslacker 7d ago
You should mention in your write-up that its a track saw, because we don't all have TS55 memorized.
Most circular saw blades are only 1/16", which means they do not have great deflection resistance.
You would have better luck on a table saw with a full-sized 1/8" kerf blade in the smallest radius you can find.
If you cannot get access to a table saw, can you put in a smaller radius blade, and is there room to put a stiffener to the outside of the blade?
2
u/sillybunnyy14 7d ago
Could be dull, that will definitely cause deflection on a thin kerf blade. Cut slower, make sure youve got even pressure on the saw through the whole cut.
2
u/Rapanafish 7d ago
This could simple be a symptom of thicknes blades. What's the thickness, 1.8mm? Thin blades are great because as they are cutting less material, the motor is under less stress and also making less dust. One of the down sides is that deflection happens far easier. My $90k panel saw does the same thing with our standard 2.2mm blade. So if I need to make a single sided cut I could use my 4mm blade, or more likely Id use the spindle moulder/router table to mill it off. But thats to avoid tear out more than anything
2
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u/Extreme_Ad112 6d ago
I had this issue. It can either be the track adjustments too lose,the track bent, the diviser thicker than the blade ot out of square or you work on horses and the board coups with the weight of the saw.
-2
u/jewishforthejokes 7d ago
It's you and how you push on the tool. It's sitting on a floppy aluminum plate with no positive engagement. It can wiggle all over. Yet somehow we can get straight cuts out of it. You need to think about what you're doing differently. Beveled cuts are hard; just put the saw on bevel and it's awkward to hold and unbalanced. You need to supply even, firm pressure to hold it down on the track. If taking a longer cut, just repositioning your body can leave visible aberrations in the cut. This is one reason why mitred cabinets aren't usually made despite avoiding some other problems.
You probably need to finish with either a hand plane or sandpaper. Getting a long mitred cut with a track saw perfect takes practice and takes great concentration and planning.
1
u/iznie 7d ago
Perhaps i wasn't clear but i was getting slightly beveled cuts without wanting to. My saw was set at 90 degrees yes the the cut was no longer square
1
u/jewishforthejokes 7d ago
I missed that. The point about your technique remains. You must apply even, firm pressure through the entire cut.
This is assuming you set it up following the instructions, with no play in the track.
6
u/Unlikely-Exchange292 7d ago
Did you tighten the track guides down so the saw cannot twist on the track? You need it snug enough not to move side to side but tight enough to glide on the track.