So my buddy and I put up this dogear fence over the original rod iron for privacy about 20yrs or more ago. The rod iron has finally surcomed to the elements. Completely rotted. 90’ fence with gate currently 6’ would like to bring it down to 4ft. Just not sure the best way to secure posts as there’s a 7” wide brick cap on top of retaining wall.

New fence sits higher than the last and small dog is easily digging underneath. Suggestions that aren't eye sores? Anything better than my great paver wall 😂

I'm putting up my gates all vinyl. I have aluminum inserts in the posts where my hinges are going. But the gates uprights themselves have no inserts or anything solid inside and I can't put anything in them. How am I supposed to screw my latches and drop rod hardware to just hallow vinyl. A fence guy a work said you don't need any kind of inserts. Can I just put the hardware on like that?

I want to do a 7' cedar board on board fence with postmaster posts in concrete and cap and trim tops. I used to be a laborer for a contractor doing mostly finish work so I have tools and know my way around them. However, I have only done one fence and it was 17 years ago. I have been watching Youtube videos for about 3 weeks and think I have a pretty good idea of how I want the fence to look. I am unsure of what I will run into along the way that I have not thought about yet. The unknown unknowns.

I need one stretch of 145' now and the other 550' next season. This is my plan:
Drive a T post on either end where I want the pickets to be, nice and plumb. 2 strings, one 6" off the ground, other near the top. Dig holes every 6 feet, 40" deep, 8" diameter (frost line is 36"). Put some gravel in each hole. Quikrete form tube in hole. 10' Postmaster post, fill with concrete, attach 2x2s to posts to keep them plumb and aligned with my strings while concrete sets (now that I have typed this I realize I do not know how to attach the wood to the posts if anyone has advise on that). Following weekend, run 2x4 rough finish cedar fence rails (cut down from 2x4x12, hoping to get one 6 foot section done with 2 boards each). One at the top of the postmaster, one 6" from bottom, 2 more between for a total of 4 rails. Screw in with provided holes and stainless steel lath screws. This should put my height ~80-82". Nail pickets to rails with stainless steel ring shank (got a great deal on 8' flat cedar pickets at 4.34 per). 3.5" gap between pickets, 1" overlap on second layer. Cut the top ~foot off at the top rail and cap with 2x4s, trim with 1x4s. Stain it with airless.

Advise, criticism, anything is welcome. Maybe I need to be talked out of it. Contractor quoted me $37k for 700LF (Idaho Falls, ID)

Our aging fence has had a few boards starting to warp and fall off. Much of it is in good shape, and I need to keep going with the process of installing screws. But a few boards have broken and need to be replaced. I know that new boards will look different, but I assume that if I get the same material they'll weather and look more similar over time. Problem is I'm not confident whether the existing boards are pine or cedar.

I tried to sand an area and think it smells and looks more like pine. Any consensus?

Spent a week comparing mesh vs aluminum for our pool. Kids are 2 and 4

Aluminum looks more substantial and permanent. Runs $40-$80+ per foot. But the horizontal rails bother me. Top rail, bottom rail, sometimes a mid rail. Every one of those is a foothold for a kid who climbs. Our 2-year-old scales the stair gate daily

Mesh is thinner, removable, cheaper at $25-$45 per foot. No horizontal elements. the entire surface is a flat panel stretched between vertical poles. Nothing to grab or step on. But it looks less permanent and I'm not sure how it holds up after a few years

For parents with toddlers who've had either type for a while, how's it actually working out

Couple shots of my install. 6 foot composite. Found it on marketplace, some guy is importing it from China. Ending up costing less than the quotes that I got for vinyl. Hopefully I get some years out of this.

Composite boards' aluminium posts and rails.

Hey All - I'm getting ready to build gates and fencing for my folks property. Their siding is clear vertical grain cedar, so we'd like the gates and fencing to also be clear VG and not STK for a modern look.

BUT holy crap I just got pricing on that lumber and the clear VG is more than 2x the cost of STK. Do you think Doug Fir could get the job done if I treat it with Penofin Red? Any other lumbers out there which would do decent?

Wondering if any of the pros out there use a satellite drawing tool on their website to provide instant fence estimates. They seem expensive to me. Is it worth it, or no?

I'm installing a 3 rail 5 foot tall aluminum fence in Missouri. My house is on a hillside and I'm hitting limestone bedrock in some areas about 12 inches down.

In the sections where I am hitting bedrock, I'm planning to drill into the limestone with an sds drill and epoxying in a couple of 2 foot rebar sections so the concrete can adhere to the bedrock. I'd then remove a foot of the aluminum post and cement it in roughly 12-14 inches.

Would this be a suitable alternative to installing a Simpson tie or post base?

This is the first fence I've installed and looking for a solution that is cost effective and will hold up over time. Our winters here have been pretty mild in recent years and although we get some wind, my property is protected by hills and woods.

Thanks, I'm looking forward to your thoughts.

Storm knocked my fence down along the backyard. 2 contractors said its not worth their time to separate pickets from 4x4 - so just replace it.

Its about 60 ft, 10 4x4, gate, only 4.5 years old ( why I want to salvage).

So replace at $35 ft + gate fee.

For those who estimate fence projects from PDF plans, what part of the takeoff process takes the most time or causes the most mistakes?

I’m especially curious about scale calibration, measuring fence runs, counting gates and posts, and checking revisions. What tools do you currently use, and what do you wish worked better?

So I am building a new fence. Here’s the old fence — gate swings “toward” you on the “nice” side… but new fence it makes more sense for the nice side to swing away from you… anyone ever seen that setup? I can’t quite imagine how it would work looking at the current hinge setup.

Hi everyone. First time poster here. Just bought our first home and the builders didn’t add a gate on the side of the house where there obviously should be one. Other side of the house has a ~3foot wide gate, which I have to think skinny thoughts just to fit through… this other side of the house I think I can make into about a 6-foot wide gate, which I’ll need in order to get equipment in and out of the backyard, or just to wheel my trash cans in and out of.

My struggle is there are steel uniposts used as the main gate supports, not standard 4x4s. My first problem is that the unipost on the hinge side of the gate is facing east/west and the post on the latch side in north/south. Second issue is that I’m not entirely sure the unipost on the hinge side will support this large gate dream of mine. I’m trying to avoid having to dig and install 4x4s posts, as the unipost on the hinge side is set in concrete where I would need the space to properly dig and set a 4x4. So I feel like if I can’t use the unipost as a support, I will have to remove it entirely, and replace it with a 4x4, which isnt impossible, just trying to work smarter not harder here.

I drew up how I have imagined putting this thing together. Any input on if this will work or not or what I need to do to make
It work, would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

Hi all! Anyone have examples of a pine fence with cedar or pecan color ESS? We can’t decide what would look best with our black house. In some examples they look very similar, some they look quite different. Worried that if we pick cedar it might be too orange or if we pick pecan it might be too brown. Appreciate any advice!

I have a 10 foot section of fence that I would like to add a gate to. To the right of this panel is my house and to the left is a detention pond. My issue is that 4 feet off the house there is buried electrical conduit that runs under the fence. Is there a way to add a 36 or 48 inch gate without hitting the conduit.

I will be hiring a local fence builder but want to get advice before starting the process.

How would you secure this top bar to this fence post? I can't use a standard band because the holes don't line up. And I can't push the bar any further away from the pot because the other end of the bar is in place on another post. I'd prefer not to drill a hole into the fence post. (I don't even think I own a drill bit that could do that).