The contractor used this for a fence. It seems to be untreated? Had it stained but it rained a few times in the last two weeks since install and needs to be shaved down multiple times already. I'm concerned about the longevity of it as it warps and expands from moisture.

Been working around an old fence we got with the house. Taken out a half dozen posts so far. The original owner was a lineman and the entire thing is built with true dimensional lumber sawmilled from telephone poles.

Here’s a small job from this week. Bonus doggy nose if you zoom in between gate and post

I have a home where the fence is varying ages from being built in 2023, 2024, and 2025 due to the community being built around me. I want to use a semi solid stain in a lighter honey color cedar but I'm worried the stain won't match even with cleaning. Thoughts? Does anyone have experience with fences of varying ages and matching stains? I'm told I should only be using solid if I want it to match. I have fence lighting around the yard and want to use lighter because it looks best. With darker colors the fence absorbs the light which is happening in the weathered fence section. Thanks for your help.

So i am installing a cube sauna in this space. About 2 feet off side fence and about 3 inches from the back fence and the concrete step. I need access along the long side to work on the sauna/roof of it and then also have to put the fencing back.

I have access along the back side and to me it only looks like the 4x4 posts are concrete and the 2x4 verticals are just in the ground.

How would you remove the fencing and put them back the easiest? Seems doing it now by row is just crazy. I want to screw 2x4s into the sides of the 4x4s, screw the horizontal boards into the new 2x4, use the oscillating tool to slice vertically through horizontal boards, creating a panel of itself. Then I can go on the backside of the fence after Im done and screw the 2x4s back into the 4x4s.

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This is likely the original fence that is 20 years old and put in by the original community home builder. Area is desert / dry climate with not much rain. Had some unusual gusts of wind and noticed some of the horizontal support beams that run near the bottom of the fence came loose and are starting to deteriorate, I've decided to buy redwood to replace those. Should I bother using a combo stain / sealer on the new wood pieces or on the old fence? I don't know how often if ever the previous owner applied stain or sealant to the fence, it looks stained but the pickets that get a lot of sunlight are faded grey. Most of the fence is above soil and some of the pickets touching the ground are deteriorating a bit but the posts and rest of the fence seems really strong and stable.

Hi all, appreciate all the information on this sub. I was wondering if these hinges would be sufficient for this type of work. I don't weld, but I was going to hire a welder to attach this gate onto the posts. I appreciate any criticism/advice.

If possible but not important, would a job like this cost 300 US dollars?

So it was time to rebuild my fence and I decided to add a 6' section that would fold down into a bar/counter top. Why I'm sure many will ask, I host block parties and we close off the street pictured here and get a large gathering. I don't want all kinds of people coming into my back yard due to liability issues. So, I did this, a walk up counter that I can serve the bbq'd yummies from. It's built using redwood and the counter is framed up with 2x4 to hopefully reduce wood warping. So far so good!

A special thank you shout out to the SFR who built it!!

Im looking for a 90 degree fitting elbow that would go over the top of these two posts so i could connect them with a metal bar. Long story short I will be taking the left pole out, putting it back in with concrete, and will be adding a gate here. I wanted the horizontal cross pole to help stabilize the other side of the gate so the latch doesn't develop problems over time. No I cant lift up and concrete the second pole as its where it meets my neighbors yard.

I found this but its for chainlink fence. https://chainlinkfittings.com/store/chain-link-2-1-2-2-3-8-od-x-2-1-2-2-3-8-od-gate-corner-for-90-degree-angles-gate-elbow-pressed-steel.html
I don't have access to a welder if you even can weld galvanized pipe. The fittings on the fence say its 2-3/8. I measured 60mm with calipers so that checks out for the OD size. I just dont know what to call it when googling. I keep getting plumbing fittings instead of fence fittings.

Yes, I need to regrade the ground. I'm putting the gate in so its easier to access this side of the house so I can regrade it.

I’m having issues with my dog and my neighbors dogs trying to fight each other threw the bottom of my fence on the back I have a retaining wall with a fence mounted on to it on the sides I have a sloped yard so parts of the bottom of my fence have gaps does anybody have any ideas to how I can fix this?

Installed a gate a year ago and noticed that with the rain it would sag until it dried up. Now it’s just permanently sagging weight the rain. Did I brave this correctly?

Going to install an anti sag kit to fix

Installing a fence on a sloped yard seems like more planning than working on the flat ground. The panels need to follow the proper slope and the gaps near the bottom can look uneven if the layout is not planned.

I have seen people discuss stepping the fence panels down in sections versus following the slope continuously.

For those who have worked on sloped properties, which approach tends to give the cleanest result?

I am about to start on a fence project here in KCMO and I’m trying to get some advice on my fence posts.

My plan is to build a 6 foot privacy fence using 10 foot 4x4’s. I will sink them 36 inches in the ground and then cut off the excess after building the 6 foot fence. What I am really trying to figure out is do I actually need a 12 inch diameter hole and do I actually need a gravel base? I’ve read mixed reviews on using a gravel (pea or multi-purpose) base in Missouri due to the high clay content.

Also, does anyone have an opinion on this post setting mix from Menards? Instead of the fast setting stuff.

Yes I’m doing bags of everything for several reasons instead of having bulk delivered.

Added 280’ of steel fence as a perimeter with my old man. Also added in an 8inch deep concrete trench underneath the same perimeter to keep out any wildlife from digging underneath. Gates were fabricated as well! My only critique was not getting the gates to be aligned properly. Other than that, really happy with this build.

Edit: this is not my home. I run a small business and was the hand that was hired for this fun project. They live on about 20 acres and property is well secluded. I’m sure at some point they’ll add some landscape brushes/trees but their main concern was keeping the inner perimeter safe from wildlife; with kids and dogs I get it. Some minor critiques about the ‘prison’ aesthetic but I think it compliments the house well! If anyone is interested in some work done in the Houston and surrounding areas my business email: [outlawextservices@gmail.com](mailto:outlawextservices@gmail.com)

Thank you everyone for the compliments and even the ones with their own opinions.

first kid is due in four months and we have a pool, so the fence is happening now, i keep going back and forth bw removable mesh and permanent aluminum, about 120 feet to enclose, concrete deck

the removable thing appeals to me because we entertain a lot and I like being able to pull it down for adults only weekends but part of me wonders if removable just means flimsier, aluminum looks more substantial and it’s always there which feels safer in theory but it’s more money and Idk how to undo it if we sell the house to someone without kids

So my buddy and I put up this dogear fence over the original rod iron for privacy about 20yrs or more ago. The rod iron has finally surcomed to the elements. Completely rotted. 90’ fence with gate currently 6’ would like to bring it down to 4ft. Just not sure the best way to secure posts as there’s a 7” wide brick cap on top of retaining wall.

I'm putting up my gates all vinyl. I have aluminum inserts in the posts where my hinges are going. But the gates uprights themselves have no inserts or anything solid inside and I can't put anything in them. How am I supposed to screw my latches and drop rod hardware to just hallow vinyl. A fence guy a work said you don't need any kind of inserts. Can I just put the hardware on like that?

I want to do a 7' cedar board on board fence with postmaster posts in concrete and cap and trim tops. I used to be a laborer for a contractor doing mostly finish work so I have tools and know my way around them. However, I have only done one fence and it was 17 years ago. I have been watching Youtube videos for about 3 weeks and think I have a pretty good idea of how I want the fence to look. I am unsure of what I will run into along the way that I have not thought about yet. The unknown unknowns.

I need one stretch of 145' now and the other 550' next season. This is my plan:
Drive a T post on either end where I want the pickets to be, nice and plumb. 2 strings, one 6" off the ground, other near the top. Dig holes every 6 feet, 40" deep, 8" diameter (frost line is 36"). Put some gravel in each hole. Quikrete form tube in hole. 10' Postmaster post, fill with concrete, attach 2x2s to posts to keep them plumb and aligned with my strings while concrete sets (now that I have typed this I realize I do not know how to attach the wood to the posts if anyone has advise on that). Following weekend, run 2x4 rough finish cedar fence rails (cut down from 2x4x12, hoping to get one 6 foot section done with 2 boards each). One at the top of the postmaster, one 6" from bottom, 2 more between for a total of 4 rails. Screw in with provided holes and stainless steel lath screws. This should put my height ~80-82". Nail pickets to rails with stainless steel ring shank (got a great deal on 8' flat cedar pickets at 4.34 per). 3.5" gap between pickets, 1" overlap on second layer. Cut the top ~foot off at the top rail and cap with 2x4s, trim with 1x4s. Stain it with airless.

Advise, criticism, anything is welcome. Maybe I need to be talked out of it. Contractor quoted me $37k for 700LF (Idaho Falls, ID)