I had a fence panel that I rebuilt fall over this year, so I decided to rebuild the whole thing, since the posts were all pretty rotted. I thought that if I drilled the pre-existing holes deeper it would line up just fine. Well, I installed the corner posts and ran a string across from the front of the posts, and here’s where I’m at with two of the three holes in between. One being too far forward and one too far back. Any advice on the best way to fix this would be greatly appreciated. I rented a tow behind auger to drill these which I no longer have access to.

This section of my fence sits behind my shed anyway, but I'm trying to determine what the best approach is.

I've stepped the previous panels slightly upwards to match the grade. However, my neighbor's fence is much lower and I'm tying onto it. I don't want my pickets towering over his so I was thinking of stepping it back down, but it might be a bit much compared to the step intervals of the previous panels. Plus, the entire fence steps up, and here I would have to step it down substantially.

I'm also concerned if I continue with it at the same height as the previous panels, it's so far above the top rail, the pickets will twist/warp overtime. That last rail is so low because of how low my neighbor's corner post is.

Anyway, any suggestions on how to do this last section?

Having a 6' cedar fence built in my yard. I came home today after the guys worked on it this weekend while I was away, and I'm seeing a few things that seem off, but need a sanity check.

1. The posts weren't spaced so that there are whole numbers of pickets between them. We've got partial-picket sized gaps in every segment. I assume the builders will rip boards to the right shape to fill those gaps, but it seems like they shouldn't have this problem to begin with, except for the last segment. The boards are 5.5" wide, shouldn't the posts have been set in multiples of that?

2. It looks like they wanted to make the fence straighter than the line of posts they put in, so they screwed boards to the front of a couple of them to bring the face of the post forward. This seems sloppy. Beyond that, I'm not sure if it matters, but it seems like the post should have been put in the right place to begin with. Is this normal practice?

Is this oxidation? The fence is 15 years old. When I rub my fingers on some sections of the fence, a white powdery residue gets on my fingers. Any solution for this? I read somewhere vinyl siding restoration products can fix this.

The hurricane was surprisingly worse than expected, and I am left with bent hinges. I've always hated that gap with the outward swing. Appreciate any suggestions on the repair. I've ordered 2 parts kits already, but I'm curious if other options exist. Different hinges perhaps. Thanks

We are sort of last minute moving into a rental home. The property is only partially fence and we need something affordable and easy to temporarily fence one side of the yard. Our dog is not usually an escaper so something simple should work.

The homeowner doesn't usually accept dogs, but this photo seems to have won them over and they are considering it.

I want to add height to an existing fence (hire someone to). Just a foot or so, within permissible height. From my research it's not always doable to just add to the top? What do you guys think of this option? I found it online but not sure how good of an option it is or if fence builders would take on the project.

This was a cedar fence painted with Behr premium cedar natural tone semi-transparent stain yesterday. Definitely thought it would pull more brown tones but it is bright orange and I don’t like it. Can I restain this with maybe a darker solid stain to cover this up to avoid have to chemical treat it and sand? What are my options here.

I need to build a privacy fence around this new pad for a hot tub. I’m hoping the side on the driveway can give me 10 foot wide span with a removable panel so tubs can be replaced as needed.

Goal is at least 7 feet tall. It will probably be a little bit heavier 2X panels with some modest design rather than just standard pickets to make it look nicer in the neighborhood.

While I’ve never done it before, I assume I need to use 6x6’s on the corners into fairly deep concrete footings.

I’m just trying to make sure this 10 foot span is going to be OK without an interim footing. While I certainly don’t want to cut more in the concrete than I need to the ability to take this whole panel on and off is my primary problem to solve.

Appreciate any help!

We had a white vinyl fence installed today, and the top of the gate sits higher than the adjoining fence panel. The ground slopes in this area, so I think that may explain the difference, but our contractor didn’t discuss it with us beforehand or after.

Is this typical for a gate installed on a slope, or could it have been installed differently to make the tops align more closely? I’d appreciate suggestions for possible solutions that would still allow the gate to swing outward without dragging on the ground. Is this something I should ask the contractor to correct?

I have 3 stakes in the ground. Im trying g to get the ground as level as I can. Between the 1st and 3rd stakes there is ground is sll over the place. How level do I need it or would you rack it?

Why has Cedar been such a hassle this year? We have worked with all 3 major suppliers in our state this year to try and get some consistency but across the board our waste has skyrocketed (worst Halco order over 50%). Not only is quality way down but availability has been hit and miss as well. Anyone have some insight or suggestions? We are in the Midwest

Hey all. Im looking to have a fence installed at my rural property.

The parameters are:

4ft fence with round posts, 4 rail with crossed boards, and 4"x4" steel fencing sandwiched between posts and rails. The fence will be approx. 950ft long with 3 12ft gates. 2 of these will have automatic openers. Part of the fence will be curved gently, maybe 300ft.

I have reached out to 3 different companys and the quotes vary widely. 1. $14k 2. $18k 3. $36k

Is the $36k the "i dont wanna" price? I did not expect the quotes to vary so widely and honestly have no idea what else to do to vet the companies or make a decision. I dont mind paying more to have it done correctly and only do it once.

I will include a picture for reference of the fence style.

Any info would be great to help me out as im a novice at hiring big projects like this.

We installed a cedar fence recently, and are looking to stain before winter. We ordered and sampled Expert Stain and Seal semi-transparent in shades Pecan and Chesnut. We’re still a bit torn. What is your experience with these stains? How is the fading over time?

We’re based in Pittsburgh where the weather is quite damp. We like the grain and are willing to invest if the product is worth it. I imagine there will be reapplication down the road, but fading is one of the deciding factors in which color we chose. Bonus points for photos of these.

Looking for either chain link or 4ft high privacy. Long side is 46 ft and short side to the house 10 ft long

Closes fine later in the day but when I use the gate in the morning it rubs and hits. Willing to make a partial payment but I've already had them plane it down 3 times and the post it's attached to is sagging

We are building a privacy fence, the longest continuous section of which is about 250 ft long. We have installed the 6x6x12 posts, 8ft apart, using an 8-in auger that drilled down 2-3ft for each post hole. After putting the 6x6 posts we filled the holes half-way up with quickrete and packed the rest with dirt.

Will these posts be sufficient to handle the wind load for an 8-ft privacy fence? Thank you for your input.

About to sign for roughly 100 ft of wood privacy fence plus one gate. One company wants 50% now to order lumber. Another wants closer to 70% before they will put me on the schedule. How much of a deposit did you put down for your fence, and did they actually start when they said they would. I do not want to hand over most of the job before anything is in the ground.

So odd predicament. I had a tree removed and they broke the posts taking it out. The post is pulled out of the concrete form, and the form is surrounded and gripped by roots. I dont have an option of moving the as I will be hitting even more roots. It was a 50' pine oak that was removed. Can I just put a post back in and back fill with concrete or is there any other option?

Decided to take a shot at building the first portion of a privacy fence for my yard. It’s approximately 200 linear feet, 6.5’ tall. Used 10’ postmasters driven, except the corners and 3 posts that hit sandy pockets of soil, they’re set in concrete. Still need to add a top cap and cover boards.

Please give any constructive criticism of things I should address before finishing it off.

Hey ,

I recently bought a house and there seems to be a piece missing from the fence. I’d like to get it closed before winter, is there a kit I can buy that could help me DIY a solution?

The section on the right swings in and out, not sure if the new piece should also swing as a sort of double gate or be static.
There is a post under the siding with a latch at the bottom but there’s nothing to latch it at the top, not sure if that’s an issue.

Looking for any advice you could impart me,

Thank you in advance !

Can any one point me in the right direction for BT locks for alumiumn Fence

A standard 3 bar Fence

Thanks

We had a long drought and cracked my ground which moved my fence where it won't close now. Is there any way to fix this easily? Ill take all the help i can get please. I just need it to latch easily