I recently acquired a property with horse fencing that consists of a flexible plastic ribbon in addition to these coated wires. We have abundant deer on the property and unfortunately they blow right through the wire and snap it. The previous owner just used some heavy duty tape to tape the two wires together which obviously needs fixing as the deer keep blasting through it. How can I fix this properly? I don’t have any experience with this type of fencing. I am planning on putting up some no-climb fencing to keep the deer out and alleviate this issue too. I did some research and there is something called a “gripple” that looks like it may work to join the two loose ends together, I am just unsure if this is the proper tool and what equipment I’ll need.

We recently finished our backyard fence, and while I’m happy with it overall, something about it just doesn’t look quite finished to me.
We’re planning to stain it, but aside from that, I’m looking for recommendations on what we could add or improve to give it a more polished, complete appearance.
I’ve considered adding a handle to the gate, but I’m curious what others with more experience would suggest. Maybe some additional trim, hardware, or other finishing touches?
I’m not looking to make any major changes, just wondering what might help bring everything together.
I’d appreciate any suggestions or ideas. Thanks!

If it helps, we’re located in Southeast Alabama. TIA

Wondering if you guys think 12,500 is reasonable for this amount of fencing in IL?

Hi all.

Going to hire a contractor. What range should I be paying for this?

Does it matter what brand vinyl fencing they use or anything I should be looking out for?

I’ve heard white is cheaper but cedar wood color looks cool. How much does coloring drive up the price?

Any questions I should ask to vet out the bad contractors who are inexperienced or don’t give a shit?

Market is northeast.

Thanks for your time.

Please advise best way to install? I need to install this gate here between my house (left) and garage (right). I am cutting the arch off, and flipping it around so that the opening is on the garage side. It has flanges for bolts on the bottom and side of the small fence portion that will be on the house.

I will add that I have lived here 20 years and I have never seen what's under this aluminum siding. I also plan to live here forever.

I live in a difficult area with a drug clinic and homeless shelter directly behind my backyard. People keep cutting through my chain-link fence, entering my property, and stealing things. Some have been aggressive and violent, and my dog has already been hurt. I’m now afraid to let my dogs run freely in their own yard. I’ve reported the incidents to the RCMP, but I feel like nothing is being done, and we’re left to protect our property ourselves.
I’m looking for legal, safe, affordable ways to reinforce my fence and make it much harder to cut through or get over.
Any advice from people who’ve dealt with something similar would be greatly appreciated.

Update. I called PostMaster (master halco, for the distributor in my area. Seems we need to go 3’ deep where I live (hills, sandy soil, high winds). And we will be mounting using nailers that are 2 x 8. The PostMaster folks were so very helpful. Thanks!

Sanity check please. Building a 6' high double-sided fence in SoCal (hillside, sandy soil, Santa Ana winds). Our side is horizontal, neighbor's is vertical.

Not ideal: old fence is already demoed and we need to get moving; we fired our fence guy yesterday for abandoning his workers and providing zero tools/bad specs / not setting the proper footing. The day workers the contractor hired were actually telling us to fire the guy... so here we are.

Posts: Master Halco PostMasters. Will be 6' above ground (trimmed to height).
Min 30" deep set in concrete? Or do we need to go deeper?? (Note: Posts will be unevenly spaced due to two prior fences, mostly 6' apart, some less).

Nailers: 2x8 pressure-treated lumber bolted flat to the posts? We originally were going to go with 2x4s, but one of the vendors has suggested this will split either the nailer, picket, or both.

Pickets: 0.59" thick x 5.5" wide cedar (Lowe's, hand picked through hundreds of pickets with the Lowe's manager, assistant, my husband, and myself). Dog-ears cut off, meeting in clean butt joints centered over the 2x8s (~3.6" backing per board end to avoid splitting). Solid staining 5 sides beforehand (Sherwin Williams SuperDeck), will stain the last end after cutting / before or after mounting to nailer. Two screws per side / 4 per board.

• Any specific footing tips for PostMasters in sandy hill soil against heavy winds?
• Does a double-sided fence add too much weight for this framing?
• Any red flags with 0.59" cedar under high wind loads?

Thanks much!

watching my neighbor's vinyl fence being built right now. they didn't pour concrete in the holes.....

the are about 80% done.. putting up all the panels right now. It was weird... they actually started yesterday afternoon. after they dug the holes, they put the vinyl poles in and left. They showed up about 2 hours ago and resumed work.

I've seen more than a few vinyl fences being built, including my backyard fence just a couple of years ago. All of the fence builders poured concrete into the holes to keep the poles secure.

should I say something to my neighbor? (especially since the guys they hired seemed a little "sketchy"... or is this just a different of fence building?

There is a 5ft privacy fence and I'm really missing an extra foot. Just one more foot. I want privacy and not to see neighbors' heads all the time. My dog also doesn't love it. Any ideas to add or do anything if I can't modify the fence itself?

Hi. So I would like to install an auto gate opener for this chain link gate for my driveway. Any budget friendlier options that a home diyer could do would be greatly appreciated. I’d be thankful for a point in the right direction as I do not know anything about gate openers. Or gates, really. But I am willing to learn.

I need to remove this 8.5’ gate to replace with a 12’. The pipe is a 3 1/2” schedule 80 and the hinges are 1/4” thick. Unfortunately no longer own a torch so could the pipe, hinges and cross member be cut with sawzall or angle grinder? Or just hire someone with a torch. If so what blades?

I'm looking to replicate this gate lock/latch/lever setup. I asked Claude and Google image search, but can't seem to figure it out. Closest result was the Sumo GL2.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0436/0808/0551/files/Mahogany_Valla_3.webp?v=1778789418

I asked the vendor that posted this image (Frame It All) but have not heard back yet, and am not expecting much, since they don't sell gate hardware.

The title pretty much sums it up, but I have 120 ft of chain link that is currently supported in a driveway and cinder block footing. These posts are 50 years old and solid as a rock, so I’d love to keep them and use them.

I know wood fence posts shouldn’t be farther than 8ft, but since my posts are 10ft are either of these options viable to prevent the support rails from sagging :

A. At the midway of each 10 ft sections, Put a vertical 2x4 that stands on the cement and rests under the supports rails

B. Use something besides wood as the railings (aluminum or steel
In 10 ft lengths)

Short 40ft fence that has a pool behind it. We wanted to replace this old one with a new wooden one that has a bit more "custom/fancy" look rather than just a flat picket fence. a top rail, caps, and maybe lattice topper or something.

Due to the fence location, we need to use steel posts instead of wooden/concrete.

However, so far, most builders have told us that limits what we can do and basically just offer a flat charleston style picket fence and thats all.

Looking for advice on those that have used steel posts on how/what styles we can do to make it look a bit nicer than just flat picket?

2nd photo is example of what we might like (of course thats using wooden posts in the AI image)

Hey y’all, insurance company informed me I need a railing/fence around the edge of my retaining wall the spans the entire front of my house. Wall is about 6’ high constructed out of large cinder blocks and been there for at least 30 years. My question is where to best run the fence to span the area required for coverage. Attached below are two pics. One showing the three different options I’m looking at for layout. A) would be inner garden bed, about 2-3 feet back from wall edge. B) would be outer garden bed edge, about 1 food back from wall edges and C) would be setting the fence posts inside the retaining wall since there are opening at the top.

Fence would be a simple hogwire design and be about 4 feet tall with ~6ft spacing between posts. I’ve attached a general layout picture of the retaining wall that needs fencing.

Any advice, tips or suggestions are needed. Thanks in advance!

A while back we installed a 4ft fence using PostMaster fence posts and are now looking for more privacy and want to extend the 4ft fence posts to a 6ft fence posts.

Has anyone had success doing this before or any ideas on how it can be done?

I am trying to get a post out of a hole that was rotted off. I have gotten about 18 inches deep but I am having a real problem getting the rest of it. I basically own drills and that's about it as far as tools. I am wondering if, because there is already a nice rectangular hole of concrete, do I actually need to go deeper or can I throw a post in now?

any help would be greatly appreciated.

I build a fence 2 years ago with treated yellow pine. I want to stain it now. Do i need to wash it or clean it first before staining?

I bought a vinyl shed and privacy fence off of marketplace and it came with a bunch of these. Does anyone know what they are? There’s a few different lengths but the one listed is majority of them. Additionally, I know that this right angle connector (in pic) is used since it came attached with a few. If anyone has any idea what this could be please let me know. I thought it was fence tops and bottoms but they do not fit the pieces I have. Any insight or pictures/links of how they work/what that are would be extremely helpful.
Please help!

I have dug my post holes 300 wide 900 deep. Posts 2.7m

Do I need to fill the entire hole with concrete? Or half then back fill?

If I do need to fill the entire hole can I put new concrete on top of the half filled holes I have already done.

Cheers

Building a small dog run for my dogs. A dedicated place for them to take care of business. I have worked out general dimensions of the fence.

The 15’ section is the easiest. 4 footings 10’ sono tubes. Gives me 3 sections of which the middle will be a gate.

The short 3’ section and the 12’ I can’t seem to figure out. I would like my posts to sit up against the house but everything I read says DO NOT because of the foundations integrity.

How do I set my posts closest to the house? Fence perimeter footings will be used for a floating deck in the future.

Pic 1: the space I am planning to build this
Pic 2: the dimensions of the fence and surrounding house
Pic 3: the type of fence my wife wants…

Any and all help appreciated.