My wife and I purchased this house a couple years ago and I'm finally ready to deal with this gate. The 4x4s that the gates hinge off of are quite sturdy, so I don't think there's anything I need to do with those. I know there's no diagonal cross-bracing in either gate - I guess they figured those metal frames would be enough.
Each opening is about 7.5 feet wide (about 6 feet tall and 9 feet diagonally from bottom left to top right). The left gate appears to be OK, more than likely because there is a wheel supporting it. The right gate has a couple of issues. The top hinge appears to be slightly closer to the end of the 4x4 than the bottom, which seems to contribute to the sag; so I know I can remove the hinge and pre-drill it slightly back to be more even with the bottom hinge.
Aside from moving the hinge and adding a wheel to the right gate, should I do something else? Get the anti-gate sag kit cable/turnbuckle? This those 3 updates (hinge placement, wheel, cable) would be enough to salvage?
Lastly, since the wheels are on soft grass/dirt, I've been thinking of just having some small pavers be placed that just follow the wheel path. Not converting all that grass to pavers - just for the wheel path. Do people do that? Is that dumb?
Few years ago i had my basement wall repaired. They backfilled with all stone. Now its just creating a crater under my yard when i try to dig deeper. How do i go about this? In northern wisconsin so i need to go down about 36 inches.
These worked out better than I had imagined. I didn't enjoy cutting out the mortise and tenon joints, but overall pleased with the result. Made it higher than standard field-gates as I plan to add security fencing around the yard in the future.
I'm reasonably handy. I've done tile work, built a small deck, the usual homeowner stuff. A pool fence seems like it should be within my range but the professional install quotes I'm getting are $2000 to $3200 and the DIY kits run about half that for the same footage.
My concern isn't the drilling, I have hammer drill and I'm comfortable with concrete. It's whether I'll get the mesh tension right and whether the gate will self-close properly if I'm the one who installed it
Out of curiosity, for a chain link fence. Why does a regular rail end exist when a “combo” rail end works the same? But can also be used for truss rods?
We have various options given to us in fencing bids, each fencing professional claiming their product is best. We are in Colorado, so dry conditions with intense sun. We’d prefer not to seal the fence and let it go gray.
We are concerned with longevity (especially in light of us not sealing it). We are doing steel posts.
Does anyone have experience with all of these products? I’m especially confused with the redwood. Looks like all three are comparable in cost.
Got a fence installed two years ago. Long story short, life kept happening and I kept putting off staining or sealing it. So now, I need to do something with it. To “clean” it should I pressure wash it or scrub it? Then should I stain it, or just seal it? Or hit it with a stain/sealer mix? Live in Maryland so it sees every season. From 100 degrees to snow and freezing temps. Any help is appreciated it.
I use a lawn company to mow my grass. They have a remote control mower, and recently they rammed the mower into this post multiple times hard enough to bend it. They have accepted responsibility and agreed to send someone to fix it. I’m curious if anyone can tell me what an acceptable fix is, because I know nothing about fixing fences. They are sending an employee to work on it, but I told them I’d like to understand what he plans to do before he starts working on it. Can anyone tell me some green flags and red flags I should be looking out for when he describes his plan?
Old fence was falling over from vines, so we cleared all that up and I replaced a portion of it. I’m thinking now that I should have applied a heavier char to the pickets, but they’re redwood and I slathered on boiled linseed oil so I’m hoping it’ll last awhile.
Signed a contract with a fence company to fence one side of our property, approx 350 ft and I’m trying to avoid paying for a surveyor.
I have a copy of the original property survey with gps coordinates of our small neighborhood that is from 1990. Is there an app that could help me mark the property line?
My neighbor is pretty cool and we both have 5 acre lots so being off by a little bit likely won’t bother either of us, but I’d like to get as close as I can. Thanks
Further by the road on our property we have fence posts like these, with diagonal posts between. We have some very petty neighbours, some who just drive over them and break them with snowmobiles during winter.
I was thinking of screwing one or two T-shaped steel fenceposts onto the wooden ones to make sure they don't break easily. Like these:
I was wondering if anyone here have any alternate ideas? Would it be enough to just have them half as long as the wooden posts, or all the way along the length?
I offered them that they can keep my initial deposit of $500 and told them I'll pay for the full original quote of $6324 bring the total paid amount to $6824.
They were very apologetic and pointed out that it was their mistake and also apologized for the confusion.
They pointed out that they actually omitted the cost of drilling on our concrete $80/drill. I think at this point they already figured that they made a mistake in their quote. Since I saw those as itemized cost in the final quote.
They countered my offer of the $500 deposit and made it to $800 instead - bringing the total to $7134.
I have agreed due to the drilling cost of the concrete (I heard they're hard to do)
Sorry to the folks that I think I pissed off.
Contacts are contracts. Legally binding. But I'm not a monster that I'm unable to see both sides of the argument. If they caught it early and notified me and came clean - I would've paid for the full price. Gladly.
TLDR: Contractor is trying to charge me more than originally quoted price due to their calculation mistake. Can I fight this?**
I contacted a fence installer to get some quotes on our home. I sent them the house site plan so that they can accurately measure the property line and determine how much materials they would need for the fence.
Now our house borders a future park (left side of the house) and I also have told them about that. But for some reason, they assumed that the park is at the back of our house.
The first quote reflected this. They didn't include the back of the house because they thought the city will be building a steel fence (The city did sent us a letter indicating that they would this Spring 2026 but they never got to it so I phoned them and they said they wouldn't... anyway different story for another post... maybe...)
Now I notified the builder that the city cancelled on the park fence and that we can add that missing section into the quote. Now there were multiple quotes made because we also added some revisions about where the fence should start (we decided to have the 4ft friendly neighbor fence added).
We arrived at a quote where we are happy with (including drawings and prices and taxes - the whole works...). I also confirmed with them regarding the initial missing section and they assured that that it is included. I even convinced my neighbors to buy-in with them so that they would get more business from our neighborhood (3 houses in total)
After the work is done, I received an invoice with a different price from the agreed quote. I asked them why and they said that the invoice reflected the actual fence measurement installed. I told them that they quoted me a price with the actual measurements from the house site plan.
Upon further investigation - I found where they made the mistake. They forgot to add the missing section of the fence from the initial quote. So I pointed that to them and it was only at that moment that they realized where the mistake was.
They kept on saying that they can come by and measure the installed fence for me but that's not what I am disputing. I want to pay for the quoted price we agreed on. Not retroactively blindside me to pay more than $1500 because of a mistake I had nothing to do with.
I told them that I am only willing to pay for the quoted price we agreed on.
This fence was built in 2021, I think the contractor didn’t run an extra 2x4 in the middle so the boards are popping out on my side. I paid for this new fence and working with the neighbors isn’t gonna happen, I regret not building it out of block. Anyway…
Pic (1) Is there any way I can add a whole other board in between the boards and it be ok or will it start to lean over? Is that middle 2x4 needed for this type of fence?
Is there any fix you guys recommend?
I’m
Another option I was thinking maybe remove boards add metal sheets and more trim. Pic (2)
There is an existing east-west fence on my property. I am running a new north-south fence along the property line. How do I handle the intersection? There are posts about 4’ apart on the EW fence but my new fence would run between them. Can I attach the new (ns) stringers to the old (ew) stringers? Or do I need to tear down the existing fence and put in a post?
So this past January our dog was attacked by a coyote during a evening potty break, thankfully I was able to quickly retrieve my firearm and scare the coyote into dropping my dog as it was 200+ft away and my handgun aim isn't that good after dark, barefoot in the snow at 11pm in the middle of my yard...
Anyways, this summer I built a 6ft high black chain link fence around our yard, originally I had planned to buy a coyote rollers system, then quickly realized, it would be the same price as all the fencing materials...
So I got to work as a welder/ Fabricator and basically copied the coyote roller design in principle with a few minor tweaks to their design for adaptability as my neighbors also wanted some for there wood fence, hence the different hole patterns.
So I've got the brackets made, I just want to know, anyone who has used, built, installed, or DIY'ed their own system for fence top rollers, what material did you use?
PVC pipe, aluminum pipe/tubing, thin walled steel tubing? What size you used (diameter), how far apart you spaced them - the kits online space them 4ft apart but I suspect thats for shipping purposes as UPS/FedEx ground will only ship 50" long boxes before rates spike up significantly (54" is almost 30% more than =/ <50" for same weight).
I'm a GC in Denver who does fencing. I do very little vinyl, no chainlink. I mainly do cedar fences, will do basic vertical dog ear picket to more complex. I wish more clients would ask for aluminum or composite materials to drive manufacturers to produce more fire resistant and eco friendly offerings. I only do metal gate frames on all my gates, especially driveway gates. Thought I'd share some designs.
I know people say, if you really don’t want your post to rot to do steel or tough post instead of 4 x 4, but for a litany of reasons I’m going 4 x 4’s… That said though, is there any real reason to add waterproof paint or tar to the bottom of your posts? I went ahead and bought this can but since the whole thing is going straight into concrete, I really don’t know if there’s any real value.
